Trip Report
Seneca on a whim :)
Wednesday April 23, 2014 9:41pm
last week on our way home from climbing in NH Isa asked me what I was doing on my vacation. My answer was .. well I would like to go to Seneca but you have to work:( Isa cheerfully answered that she might be able to swing a few days off:). somehow she was able to talk her boss into accepting that taking thursday, friday and Monday off was actually only one extra day off? (republican math) The boss bought it and the wheels were spinning:) The plan was to pick Isa up at work early 2pmish on Wed. I did the big rush to get the van cleaned out, the bed installed, curtains fixed, winter tires changed to summer,the kitchen put together and all the climbing gear in order. Wed morning dawns and it is seriously Cold with fresh snow.
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18f
18f
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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By the time I have tied up all my loose ends and isa is done with work it is 3:00pm on wednesday and we are officialy on the road South:) vacation time! A beautifull sunset and lots of crazy traffic for a country boy. I drive untill midnight and we crash in a rest area just south of Harrisburg PA. wake to a cold crisp sunrise
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Credit: tradmanclimbs
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we drive awhile to let it warm up a bit before our breakfast stop on I81 still in PA
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Isa seranades me while I cook the oatmeal:)
Isa seranades me while I cook the oatmeal:)
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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It is cold but the apple blossems and spring flowers are here!
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Credit: tradmanclimbs
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they even have green grass! Isa fiddles and I break out my new Washburn 3/4 travel dread to go with our hot coco and oatmeal. finally at noon thirty we roll into Seneca WV. 684 miles on the trip meter from the cabin to Yokums.
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Credit: tradmanclimbs
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It is sunny and in the low 50's. not ideal but a heck of a lot better than yesterday mornings snow! a quick lunch of cherry jam sammiches and apples and we are geared up and hikeing the Seneca Stair master. I lead the first tricky crux of Green Wall only to be told that I have been off rote all these years;). Oh well. Isa scampers up the nice long 2nd pitch to the summit of South peak
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top of Greenwall
top of Greenwall
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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and brings me up
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What a beautifull valley! What a beautifull summit!
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top of Greenwall
top of Greenwall
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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there are new glue is at the top of green wall/Pleasant O's that lead to funky rings for a wild free hanging rap over the Pleasant O's roof
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Credit: tradmanclimbs
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climber in Pleasant O's
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climber on Pleasant O's
climber on Pleasant O's
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Back in the parking lot it is aparent that we are in fact in West By God Virginia
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A beautifull sunset again!
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We are lucky to be early season and there is still pleanty of free deadfall firewood in the campground. Lots of git picking and fiddeling to go with our yummy burritos
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we stay up late git picking and fiddleing arround the fire. there are headlamps still up on the cliff @ 11:00pm when we crash Thusday evening. We pleasantly sleep in friday morning.
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photo for Dingus Milktoast
photo for Dingus Milktoast
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Lots of hand made music to go with breakfast. A casual stroll up to Extacy and a fun sunny warm romp up one of the best 5.7's anywheres:)
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Isa @ the 2nd belay
Isa @ the 2nd belay
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Isa @ the 2nd belay
Isa @ the 2nd belay
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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leading P 3
leading P 3
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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p3
p3
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P3
P3
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Top of P3 sunny and mid 60's
Top of P3 sunny and mid 60's
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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After a siesta in the sun we play rock paper scisors . Isa loses and braves the stairmaster to retrieve our packs! a nice snack and we are back on the rock. I lead the short 1st pitch (right variation)of Tomato. Isa cranks the steep 2nd pitch
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Tomato
Tomato
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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I follow
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Tomato
Tomato
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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and climb through the Gunsite cluster to the top
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Isa all happy from leading Tomato
Isa all happy from leading Tomato
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the same crazy free hanging rap as yesterday
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we see lots of hearts
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Isa serenades me again while I cook dinner
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Friday night there are headlamps up on the cliff again all evening and still there when we crash @ 11pm we later find out that a party of 3 started Old Mans rt @ 1:00pm got lost, had to cut up their rope for anchors and finally made it down safely @ 3:00am! Aparently they read this sign!
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Credit: tradmanclimbs
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We slept in decadantly again.. french toast with jam, honey and coffe that our neighbors gave us! really digging this vacation mode!
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lots of spring flowers and hearts
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We are starting to feel a bit sore. this rock climbing stuff is so different from Ice climbing! My hands are beat up! sharp rock.
We head for the stair master again at the crack of noon :)
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Seneca stair master
Seneca stair master
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Isa scampers up the 1st pitch of West Pole
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I get totally spanked by the roof. I totally miss the key left foot
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and slink back to the belay with my tail between my legs feeling shame.. Isa naturally hikes it...
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I redeem myself by embraceing the Wyde and leading the direct finish:)
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nice belay on top of a total heap:)
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Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Isa arrives at the heap belay
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We met a totaly cool street vendor selling home made bird houses, fiddles, guitars and mandolins. We had a great jam playing hillbilly gospel music. Bummed I did not get any photos as we were too busy playing music. Isa almost bough a mando but was short on funds.. My fingers and hands are trashed for guitar playing.
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lots more fiddleing by the campfire and yummy food. We were toying with the thought of driveing 45min over the mountain to catch a band at the purple Fiddle but ended up just hanging by the campfire sat night. Slept in again....so I guess I deserve it... Easter Sunday 2014. I miss my sister and the farm but this is also so special. My first real vacation since 2006. Back to the stairmaster and Tripple S
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It's Springtime:)
It's Springtime:)
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Isa does annother lap
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Tripple S 8+
Tripple S 8+
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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I lead up through the notch to Windy corner
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Isa @ belay on top of Tripple S
Isa @ belay on top of Tripple S
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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Isa folllows Windy Corner
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we scramble the summit
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do we really have to drive north and go back to work?
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headding home...
headding home...
Credit: tradmanclimbs
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  Trip Report Views: 4,295
tradmanclimbs
About the Author
tradmanclimbs is a ice climber from Pomfert VT.

Comments
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
Great TR of a truly great spot .

Edit; Nice Washburn as well.
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
awesome. always wanted to visit seneca.

where's the soundtrack?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
All smiles.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
Nice tmc. I don't think I have ever seen a picture of scenica that shows the spires. Looks like a great area. I know a lot of the army's pins ended up in the needles via the Conns so I feel connected to the place despite never having been there.
Sanskara

climber
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
Very nice,

I hoped to make this trip myself this year. Gonna have to see how the hoof takes to walking first.

I miss living outa the back of the car.

Looks like you both had a great time!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
Lov it
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
Six days on the road was just a tease! We so wanted to head west from WV...... Mike. Seneca reminds me of a tower though some liken it to a small mountain.
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
Thank you for the cool report!
perswig

climber
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
Nice work if you can get it!

Thanks for taking us along, you two.
Dale
CClarke

climber
La Paz, Bolivia
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
Good weather yeah! Makes me miss my cabin.
Chugach

Trad climber
Vermont
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
Great trip, great place.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:02am PT
Nice report! Seneca is a special place. In some ways the Gunks with the strata vertical rather than horizontal. Very steep!
jstan

climber
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:41am PT

Seneca has lost its pinnacle and Buck Harper but it remains a unique place with a unique local
population. Somewhere I have a picture of Pat and Mark Milligan fording the stream to get to
Champe Rock. Yes this can happen, even in the East. There are not many places where you
can reach into a crack and do a layback on the other side of the cliff. This you can do in W VA.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:34am PT
Awesome. Thanks for sharing!
I had a fun spring break trip there back in 1977.
West Pole was 5.6 in the guidebook then! (But we were tipped off that it was a sandbag).
Had wanted to do SSS but never got back there.
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Apr 24, 2014 - 03:51am PT
BBST. Thanks for the pics. Always wanted to get out to Seneca. Way back in the day my mom bought me a Joe Brown helmet from the Gendarm.

Is the shop still active?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 06:37am PT
John sold the Gendarm to Arthur awhile back so it is just a climbing shop now. No longer a gun store and climbing shop. (aparently he forgot to inform the ATF of this transaction creating an exciteing moment or two when the ATF called the Gendarm looking for john) we did hear a few loud gunshots up the vally and Tom from Seneca Rocks mtn guides informed us that that was most likly John. Tony is not arround and mostly guides the Via feratta @ Nelsons. The large wiggly block fell out of the 2nd roof on West Pole. A 2nd large block slid down and rests lower and more precariously below the 2nd roof. people yard and thrash over this loose block all day long directly above the cluster of sheep on Old Mans rt and old mans rapell.
Princes Snowbird camp ground is a bit run down. The bathrooms were horrid and the grounds looked like sh#t. The shelvs in Yokums store looked thin compared to the old days..
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Apr 24, 2014 - 07:04am PT
Ah, I live close to Seneca, hope your enjoyed our redneck state. Wild ramps are in season, did you happen to have any ramps with your meals?


Photo: http://norecipes.com/ramp-pesto-pasta-recipe/

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 07:06am PT
No ramps but the campground was full of chives that ended up in most of our dinners.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 07:17am PT
We have ramps here in VT (not ready just yet) but they were not on my radar this trip. the wild chives did make on to the plate though.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
  Apr 24, 2014 - 08:39am PT
Great stuff, tradman
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Apr 24, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Thanks tradman, great to see a part of the country that I have not experienced. Appreciate the time you took to share the place, super TR!

Charlie D.
dagibbs

Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
  Apr 24, 2014 - 11:46am PT
Looks awesome!
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
  Apr 24, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
Well tradman, I guess you musta known it was my birthday and made me an awesome gift of a TR from my home crag. Wonderful pics and looks like a wonderful time had by you and Isa. Boy do I miss me some Seneca. Best Little Big Crag Ever!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 24, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
What a COOL area. That geology is the stuff I've only read about (the only time I've been on the other side of the Mississippi was to work in Pensacola). Seneca Rocks rocks! It's like a fin sticking up with routes all over the place.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 24, 2014 - 02:25pm PT
Super cool! What a great lil adventure. Way to make the most of it. Great photos and a fun write up! Thanks for sharing your stoke!

Scott
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
  Apr 24, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
TFPU-AC

Senaca is a good time, for sure!
William Finley

Social climber
Anchorage
  Apr 24, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
There are not many places where you can reach into a crack and do a layback on the other side of the cliff.
There's a route like that at Nelson Rocks as well. Rather disconcerting while climbing but fun to think about after the fact!

we later find out that a party of 3 started Old Mans rt @ 1:00pm got lost, had to cut up their rope for anchors and finally made it down safely @ 3:00am!
14 hours on Old Mans route? How is this even possible?
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Apr 24, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
Great report TFPU
Less than 3 hours from my home town in PA
Just added Seneca Rocks to bucket list...
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
Note exactly sure how they managed 14hrs without at least hauling a keg along? it was cold that night near freezing. I think they deserve some kind of reward for the marathon epic;) i guess they got up in those scrambleing areas on the east side sometime after dark. started rapping the east side and decided they must rap the west side instead so climbed back up and found a way down the west side?
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
  Apr 24, 2014 - 08:14pm PT

Apr 23, 2014 - 07:18pm PT
Nice tmc. I don't think I have ever seen a picture of scenica that shows the spires. Looks like a great area.

No spires since the Gendarme fell down. Those are fins.

The normal view you see is the West face from the Germany valley (little town of Seneca Rocks...formerly Mouth of Seneca)

There is as much climbing on the East Face, and it is just as steep or steeper.

The top of those fins are maybe 10-20 feet thick.

But you are right it is a great place. I always considered it a bit on the serious side in the upper grades, you should be able a to lead a couple grades above the route you are trying because of the steepness.
sandstone conglomerate

climber
sharon conglomerate central
  Apr 24, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
great TR! WVA is a fantastic place...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 24, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
Very nice trip, you are a lucky man tradman!!!!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
We never got up early enough to catch the sun on the east side this trip;) lots of super cool routs on that side. Soler, alcoa, high test etc.
RyanD

climber
  Apr 25, 2014 - 12:02am PT
Good stuff tradmanclimbs!!

I've heard of Seneca rocks but never seen. Thanks to you now I have. Those summits look amazing. How tall are these formations??


Jstan- that sketch is awesome!!
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
  Apr 25, 2014 - 12:09am PT
We never got up early enough to catch the sun on the east side this trip;) lots of super cool routs on that side. Soler, alcoa, high test etc.

Tough when the sun leaves the East Face at 1pm...

... camping can be tough!
jstan

climber
  Apr 25, 2014 - 11:15pm PT
Jstan- that sketch is awesome!!

Thank you. I get so little credit for the exquisite woodcuts I have made. I did that one in 1872. You won't believe this but my time back then was worth more than it is now.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seneca_Rocks


Edit:

Tman:
I trust you are kidding, for I was. I posted that old woodcut because because

it is beautiful.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 25, 2014 - 06:22am PT
Nice work John. did not realize that was your artwork. yes we were unbelievably lazy on this trip.....
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 25, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
why do the trip reports dissapear off the reguler forum?
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
  Apr 25, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
why do the trip reports dissapear off the reguler forum?

They are toxic with respect to the entire focus of ST.
Gunks Guy

Trad climber
New Paltz
  Apr 25, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
It's been over 25 years since I saw that summit but it still looks familiar. So unique it is hard to forget.

Moved to VA to teach in 1987 and wanted to climb the Gendarme. Unfortunately it fell down that winter before I got the chance.

In any case, Seneca was a cool and memorable place to climb - overshadowed by the New and the Red in recent times, but still, really unique and awesome.

TFPU
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
  Apr 25, 2014 - 11:37pm PT
cool pics! I've never been to seneca but it looks sweet. Bump for climbing content
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 26, 2014 - 12:56am PT
I've been wishing for more information about Seneca Rocks for ever and almost dreamed about a TR from someone who's actually climbed there. So total: THANKS!

The van remodel beta and roadtrip beta was a total bonus.

Dar
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 26, 2014 - 07:25am PT
I don't see how seneca could be overshadowed by the new and the red. They are like apples and oranges. Gorges/ caynons where Seneca is much more like a series of towers or a small mountain.
stilltrying

Trad climber
washington indiana
  Apr 26, 2014 - 08:01am PT
Awesome TR thanks for sharing and great job.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
  Apr 26, 2014 - 08:54am PT
Bravo!!
GARY Owen

Trad climber
Lexington
  Apr 26, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
tfpu
Gunks Guy

Trad climber
New Paltz
  Apr 27, 2014 - 12:00am PT
Overshadowed is probably the wrong word. Probably just my experience, but I don't remember even knowing about the Red or the New 25 years ago and today, I don't have any friends that have even gone to Seneca in recent memory. But plenty of climbers I know make annual trips to the Red or the New. But like you said, apples and oranges.

Anyway, brought back some great memories so Thanks!
Rankin

Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
  Apr 27, 2014 - 12:07am PT
Awesome! I love Seneca. There's something about that place that is stirring, and it's got great climbing. TFPU.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Apr 27, 2014 - 06:21am PT
Not only does your gal-pal sport a mean fiddle, but she appears to rig a nice directional anchor too!

#Keeper
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Apr 27, 2014 - 10:30am PT
Nice TR. Seneca Hearts Rock.
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  Apr 28, 2014 - 05:00pm PT
Love Seneca, spent a lot of time there when I was living in the DC area. I have some special memories of that place!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Apr 28, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
3 cheers for a great TR! Wished I was there to add mando to the mix!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 28, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
Would have loved to find a real jam but no luck. the best we could do was our 30 min session on the side of the road with the music store Guy. Arround here there is a jam or open mike almost every night somewhere within a 35 mile radius.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Apr 28, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
Thanks tradmon . . . hopefully you'll be sharing some more adventures soon.
CClarke

climber
La Paz, Bolivia
  Apr 28, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
Hi Naitch,

Clarke's Climb (fun route) was before my time as I first climbed at Seneca in 1986. I did make a nice FA with Tom Cecil in 1990 called the Sorceror which isn't too far away from Clarke's Climb. It has a few bolts and some trad gear and is rated according to the standards prevailing at the time.

Seneca is a special place to climb with a few routes as good as anywhere. There are also a lot of good crags nearby but some have access issues so will never be popular. In a way, that's an attraction not a flaw, if you spend a lot of time in the area.
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
  Apr 30, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
thanks for the great report Trad.

wasn't the Clarke of Clarke's Climb a Brit (Alan Clarke, known as Clarky) who climbed in the area in the early to mid 70s? A friend of Roger Birch? Maybe jstan knows...
CClarke

climber
La Paz, Bolivia
  Apr 28, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
I loved climbing with Roger Birch in the 90s. He had a wicked sarcastic wit. He had climbed a lot with Matt Hale. My favorite line of his was that Hale had "hauled him up like a sack of spuds" on Stone Gallows at Nelson. We made a few repeats of Matt Hales' more obscure routes in Greenland Gap and other venues. Haven't seen or heard from Roger in many years.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
  Apr 29, 2014 - 12:27am PT
Clarke's Climb (fun route) was before my time as I first climbed at Seneca in 1986.

Even older than most people think. Clarke must have been Glasswegian, because it was in the 1975 Webster guide as Clarice's climb ( 5.7 - A2) A. Clarke, - D. Kepler, 1972

By 1980 it was Clarke's climb at 5.9 in a newer edition. No FFA listed.
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
  Apr 29, 2014 - 12:53am PT
I watched Roger, Matt, and Ray doing Stone Gallows. Quite the good job by those guys!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  Apr 30, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
How about Mad Man when you get to the top of north peak and can see right through to the other side........
jstan

climber
  Apr 30, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
I never encountered Alan. Roger worked at the British Embassy and had a most formidable wit. Carderock was a go to place. Will never forget it.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Apr 30, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
thanks for sharing your stoke Nick!

CClarke

climber
La Paz, Bolivia
  May 1, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
Hi jstan,

What was your favorite or most memorable route at Seneca?

Cheers,

Chris
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  May 2, 2014 - 06:50am PT
Annother summit shot for Isa. This is the top of west pole direct. a little rubbel heap just below and south west of the actual summit. One must down climb about 15ft from this summit to gain the notch and 4th class terrain just below the actual summit. This is a great pitch that seems to not get climbed much. most folks think they are done with west pole when they get to the big tree. Not INMOP
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Author's Reply  May 2, 2014 - 07:12am PT
Would love to make it down there for that someday!
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