Trip Report
Semi-Leisurely Mt. Conness
Tuesday July 23, 2013 9:55pm
Mt.Conness is another peak that's always loomed in the distance like a magnate. My gal, the beautiful Miss Colleen and our friend Andre had gone to climb it a couple of years ago but were thwarted by bad approach info. We all tried again last summer but thunderstorms shut the trip down.
However, for this go round, the weather was perfect. So Miss Colleen, Andre, his sister Mareli and I set off for the mount...........
Hiking in from Lembert Dome to Young Lakes
Hiking in from Lembert Dome to Young Lakes
Credit: Miss Colleen!

We spent the night at Young Lakes, then climbed the next morning. The weather was perfect.
The crew at Young Lake. Me, Marely, Miss Colleen and Andre.  Ragged Pe...
The crew at Young Lake. Me, Marely, Miss Colleen and Andre. Ragged Peak in the background.
Credit: Andre Dreyer

Ragged peak
Ragged peak
Credit: Miss Colleen!

Wheee!
Wheee!
Credit: Miss Colleen!
Mareli jumping above the Mt.
Mareli jumping above the Mt.
Credit: Andre Dreyer
The West Ridge from Young Lakes.
The West Ridge from Young Lakes.
Credit: Miss Colleen!
Moon above Young Lakes.
Moon above Young Lakes.
Credit: Miss Colleen!

Dawn of a new day
Dawn hits ragged peak.
Dawn hits ragged peak.
Credit: Miss Colleen!
Andre and Miss Colleen had an epic overland journey from here two years ago and approached to the east, up the scree fields, down the notch and to the base of the West ridge exhausted and too late and tired to climb. So this trip was redemptive for them. Andre remembered a direct cross country way from the base to Young Lakes from their previous trip and so Andre retraced us back that way.

We headed north from the lake at Ragged Peak overland directly to the Conness. This entails traversing down a gentle wooded gully to a stream, following the east side of the stream up slope (not hard) until Conness is visible and then heading for the meadow before it.
Andre, our fearless trailblazer.
Andre, our fearless trailblazer.
Credit: Mareli Dreyer
Traversing overland north of Young Lakes.
Traversing overland north of Young Lakes.
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Andre led us by memory directly to the meadow south of Conness. We decided to try two ways of getting to the foot of the West Ridge. Andre and Mareli decided on taking the slabs and talus down and east of the foot while Miss Colleen and I elected to take the meadow to the moraine west of the ridge, climb the talus to it's peak slightly west of the toe and then traverse up to it. Both ways worked well. The approach for us was easy as the talus is compact and easy to traverse. It took all of us an hour and twenty minutes from the lake to the foot of the West Ridge.

Time to climb!
Andre and Mareli scoping the ridge.
Andre and Mareli scoping the ridge.
Credit: wstmrnclmr
Andre and Mareli climbed just east of the main ridge up the band of a thousand cracks. Miss Colleen and I headed up the more broken rib at the top of the talus toe.
Going up.....
Going up.....
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Andre and Mareli.
Andre and Mareli.
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Credit: wstmrnclmr
Miss Colleen!
Miss Colleen!
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Andre and Mareli spit out of the dragon onto the edge.....
Andre and Mareli spit out of the dragon onto the edge.....
Credit: Miss Colleen!
Head of a primordial dragon.....
Head of a primordial dragon.....
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Great exposure!
Great exposure!
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Happy girls at the summit....
Happy girls at the summit....
Credit: Andre Dreyer
Lone Sentinel.
Lone Sentinel.
Credit: Andre Dreyer
One of two active glaciers in the park....Or so it says.
One of two active glaciers in the park....Or so it says.
Credit: Miss Colleen!
Andre the Giant engulfs the southeast face!
Andre the Giant engulfs the southeast face!
Credit: Mareli Dreyer
Headed for Home......
Headed for Home......
Credit: Andre Dreyer



Perfect weather and a beautiful, mellow climb.

  Trip Report Views: 925
wstmrnclmr
About the Author
wstmrnclmr is a trad climber from Bolinas, CA.

Comments
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 23, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
... seems the photo-tags need to be fixed
but an appropriate levity to describe this 5.fun route...
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jul 24, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
nice tr, i really enjoyed the pics. i was recently on the other side of conness.
Credit: kaholatingtong
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Jul 24, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Yay! Glad the crew finally made it. Andre has had this on his list for quite a while!
QITNL

climber
  Jul 25, 2013 - 03:36am PT
Awesome, glad you had fun!

PS - did you try the shortcut?

5-11-13
5-11-13
Credit: QITNL
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jul 24, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Great summit, roped or not roped, isn't it? Nicely done trip.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jul 24, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
One of the best routes evar!

3rd times the charm eh? Good job.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 24, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
Bravo! Excellent report from a stunning locashe. I hope to do that route soon! You got me salivatin'! Wonderful words and photos. See you out there!

Scott
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jul 24, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
i truly enjoyed andre the giant- too funny
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 25, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Dang I love it up there. It's been too long!

Thanks for the ride!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 25, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
NIce job, thanks!!!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 25, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
Hey QITNL.....Told the gang about it but we didn't try it. If I get back by myself, I'll give it a try.
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