Trip Report
Replacing the crux bolt on p5 of Hemispheres, Fairview Dome (8/17/2013)
Wednesday August 21, 2013 11:53pm
Some days ago an acquaintance asked me if the bolts on Hemispheres were good. I checked the list on safeclimbing.org and replied they had all been replaced in the 80s. Actually he went ahead and climbed it with his wife and daughter before he got my reply. In his photos from the climb, he noted that the crux bolt on p5 was an old one - 1/4" buttonhead with Leeper hanger. Fortunately there was a crack a bit below and 5.10+ was no problem, but still....

Roger was off for the weekend, so I made it my mission on Saturday to correct the situation. I hiked to the top with 2 light 60s (and a 3rd 50) and rapped to the U-shaped bowl. Then fixed down over the big roof which Fairest of All traverses under.
Last of the quarter-inchers - removing the crux bolt on p4 of Hemisphe...
Last of the quarter-inchers - removing the crux bolt on p4 of Hemispheres with a "tuning fork". (All bolts below had been replaced some years ago).
Credit: Clint Cummins
Partway through drilling out the old hole, my hammer head got fairly l...
Partway through drilling out the old hole, my hammer head got fairly loose - the nail I was using through the tangs had broken off and taken the plunge (again).
Credit: Clint Cummins
Old meets new
Old meets new
Credit: Clint Cummins
New stainless steel 3/8" x 2.25" for the (5.10+) crux.
New stainless steel 3/8" x 2.25" for the (5.10+) crux.
Credit: Clint Cummins
The only scary part was jugging out on my 8.1mm rope.  I placed some i...
The only scary part was jugging out on my 8.1mm rope. I placed some intermediate gear to reduce stretch over edges....
Credit: Clint Cummins
I rounded out the day by rapping down Mikey's route Night Shift, and finally replacing the first bolt on Piece de Resistance (and removing the first bolt on p2 of Piece, which was right next to one of Mikey's new bolts).

I never climbed Hemispheres or Piece de Resistance even when I was climbing better, so this was kind of a "lightweight inspection tour". Maybe a bit like the times I've rapped down Hall of Mirrors in the course of bolt replacement. It may be on aid, but it's still fun.... :-)

  Trip Report Views: 2,448
Clint Cummins
About the Author
Clint Cummins is a trad climber and rap rebolter from SF Bay area, CA.

Comments
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Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:05am PT
Kick ass!
bob

climber
  Aug 22, 2013 - 02:24am PT
Thanks Clint. I remember that thing. The route is such an adventure. I remember a SAR buddy admitting that he ignored his pager just after the second pitch lead because he didn't want to have to lead it again. When I did it, we flipped for first lead so I got to follow the second. Yeah!!!!

Thanks again.

Bob J.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
  Aug 22, 2013 - 03:54am PT
Thanks Clint!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Aug 22, 2013 - 03:57am PT
Good job, man!
We thank you for your service.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
  Aug 22, 2013 - 06:17am PT
that is such a bad ass route. I did the 2nd ascent with Dimitri in 85 or 86. way way fun, scary good climbing..
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
  Aug 22, 2013 - 10:52am PT
I did this climb with Alan Nelson at about the same time as the kid, or maybe earlier. I did the 5.8 pitches (first and last?), might as well have been soloing. Guess you can say that about the rest of the route, too.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Aug 22, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Hey Clint, I am curious: what is the ballpark shear strength of those two different bolts?
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
  Aug 22, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Thanks for all the hard work. I met Roger at the Tuolumne grill parking lot yesterday and chatted with him for quits some time. Really nice guy, was eager to share what you guys are up to!!

Greg Barnes

climber
  Aug 22, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Ballpark shear strength, from the Powers website:

7440 lbs shear on 2" embedded 3/8" 5-piece ("Power-bolt") in 6000 lb PSI concrete

2090 lbs shear on 1 1/8" embedded 1/4" buttonhead ("Drive") in 6000 lb PSI concrete

http://www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/06914.pdf
http://www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/03601.pdf
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Aug 22, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Well done Clint.
I never liked buttonheads even Back In The Day.
Did you say your head came loose because a nail fell out?
That's gotta explain SOMETHING.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 22, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Good on Ya Clint!!!!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Aug 22, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Clint, you are my hero. Thanks again for the service and also TR.I enjoy these
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Aug 22, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Thanks for the work Clint. The old one looks surprisingly good. Never know what you're going to get when you pull those.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 22, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
If there's a climbing heaven, Clint should definitely get admission. I guess having fun on Fairview Dome is pretty heavenly, so I guess he's already there?

Thanks for community service :)
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
  Aug 23, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Thanks Clint!!!
Zander

climber
  Aug 24, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
Sweet!
NilsDavis

Trad climber
Bishop
  Aug 27, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Thanks Clint.
Wanted to mention in here also that when Mikey and I put up Retrospective, we placed 1/4" bolts on lead, ground up, but then went back and pulled all and replaced with 3/8".
Retrospective joins Hemispheres for a touch then crosses Fairest of All to go straight through the roofs.
To this day I don't think it's been done more than twice. Worth doing and would love for it to get more traffic.
Here's the info:
Not "Unnamed." Retrospective is the name.
Not "Unnamed." Retrospective is the name.
Credit: NilsDavis
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Aug 27, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Thank you for your work.
RealOldTradClimber

Trad climber
Greenfield, NH
  Aug 27, 2013 - 10:36am PT
Hi, Clint. Thanks. I certainly appreciate all the good new bolts in Tuolumne! Madeleine and i spent three weeks climbing there last summer and kept noticing the beautiful new 3/8" bolts.

BTW, how long does it take to replace one old button head bolt?

Michael Lehner
NilsDavis

Trad climber
Bishop
  Aug 27, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
RealOldTradClimber, it takes about half hour at the most to replace a buttonhead. Depends on the driller though!
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