Trip Report
Playing Hooky from Work: A Solo Ascent of Geochronology Wall (I, C2, cl.3)
Wednesday September 7, 2011 9:35pm
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Lightweight aid rack - perfect for bringing to the office.
Lightweight aid rack - perfect for bringing to the office.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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On August 30, 2011, I had a carpe diem moment. I had just acquired my first set of aid hooks and was desperately wanting to push myself in a crash course on hooking. Hooking seemed like pretty scary stuff, so I needed to work myself in stat for some climbs I have hopes to do.

Now, for those that don't know me, some might say that I have no shame when coming up with new & effective ways to train.

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Attempting to start the new sport of "Snow Bouldering"
Attempting to start the new sport of "Snow Bouldering"
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Drytooling at Skull Rock. I highly recommend wearing gloves when doing...
Drytooling at Skull Rock. I highly recommend wearing gloves when doing this.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Drytooling at Skull Rock on the hardest line that I've found to TR so ...
Drytooling at Skull Rock on the hardest line that I've found to TR so far.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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How to warm up over an hour for a 2 hr gym climbing session - and for ...
How to warm up over an hour for a 2 hr gym climbing session - and for alpine climbing on the weekend!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Sometimes I can even talk others into joining me with my crazy ideas.
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Pinar learning the value of pre-rigging a heavy pack to be shed in the...
Pinar learning the value of pre-rigging a heavy pack to be shed in the event of falling into a crevasse. Not fun to prussic!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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I also can't resist seizing chances to document unusual training regimens for an excuse to practice multimedia productions, such as obsessive Photoshop annotations or productions in Premier.
PG Presidio Offwidth

So an idea came to me one day at work to bike up into the north Berkeley hills during my lunch hour and practice hooking in a rather unusual way.

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Geochronology Wall
Geochronology Wall
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Geochronology Wall solo aid route. My trusty photographer is eating lu...
Geochronology Wall solo aid route. My trusty photographer is eating lunch at the descent route.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Tentative start to the long hooking traverse . . .
Tentative start to the long hooking traverse . . .
Credit: PellucidWombat
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and we're off!
and we're off!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Trying out the BD Talon
Trying out the BD Talon
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Defying gravity on the solo hooking traverse
Defying gravity on the solo hooking traverse
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Easy & bomber hook placement
Easy & bomber hook placement
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Making the next placement, using the rock features for stability.
Making the next placement, using the rock features for stability.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Testing the placement carefully. Watch that face!
Testing the placement carefully. Watch that face!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Another hook placement
Another hook placement
Credit: PellucidWombat
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And still another hook placement
And still another hook placement
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Hooking is serious business. Tourons look on, concerned, but they just...
Hooking is serious business. Tourons look on, concerned, but they just don't understand.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Hook placements begin to get sketchier
Hook placements begin to get sketchier
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Keep that face clear in case one pops!
Keep that face clear in case one pops!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Finally holding onto the aiders, and the hooks aren't pulling out. Ste...
Finally holding onto the aiders, and the hooks aren't pulling out. Steady now!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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It was at this time that I started getting tired. I had foolishly neglected to bring my daisies, and now I was precariously balanced on the steep wall with gravity pulling me back toward the abyss.

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Tiring out, I need to find a rest! But without daisies, how can I get ...
Tiring out, I need to find a rest! But without daisies, how can I get relief?
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Gotta improvise fast! Here's an idea!
Gotta improvise fast! Here's an idea!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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That ought to do it!
That ought to do it!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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At last! A hands free rest!
At last! A hands free rest!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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However, my improvised rest became too relaxing, as I began to doze of...
However, my improvised rest became too relaxing, as I began to doze off.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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I'd better not fall asleep on my solo ascent, though. It could be dang...
I'd better not fall asleep on my solo ascent, though. It could be dangerous, and onlookers might become even more concerned. The last thing I need now is an unnecessary rescue.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Rested, I gradually warmed back up to the rigors of the route.

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It was good I rested, because here was the hooking crux of the route!
It was good I rested, because here was the hooking crux of the route!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Testing the questionable hook placement.
Testing the questionable hook placement.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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I'm still not sure about this. It seems pretty unstable to traverse on...
I'm still not sure about this. It seems pretty unstable to traverse onto . . .
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Stay, hook! Stay!
Stay, hook! Stay!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Fortunately the thin placement held. By now I was nearly halfway across the route, and the moves were getting routine as the exposure eased off.

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In order to work the mental training of the terror of extended hooking...
In order to work the mental training of the terror of extended hooking, I needed to improvise with my imagination. Don't fall here!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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But then things in my mind took a turn for the worst. This was getting...
But then things in my mind took a turn for the worst. This was getting to be too much . . .
Credit: PellucidWombat
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I figured the rebellion of my mind was a result of me bonking. It was now well past 1pm and I had yet to actually eat lunch during my lunch hour! I needed to refuel, stat!

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Fortunately I was able to get some provisions dropped off for my solo ...
Fortunately I was able to get some provisions dropped off for my solo traverse. However, the run-in with the authorities almost ended my climb prematurely.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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I appealed to the authorities, giving a heartfelt defense of my lofty goals in hopes that they would allow me to continue reaching for the sky. Fortunately my explanation of what I was doing worked, as the concerned grounds manager eventually relented, saying "eh. I guess this is Berkeley."

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And so, refreshed from lunch, I pressed on with renewed vigor.
And so, refreshed from lunch, I pressed on with renewed vigor.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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It was getting late in the hour, so I rushed on. Time was short to fin...
It was getting late in the hour, so I rushed on. Time was short to finish the route!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Smooth hooking carried me across the wall.
Smooth hooking carried me across the wall.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Credit: PellucidWombat
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I'm getting the hang of this now!
I'm getting the hang of this now!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Nearing the end, the route began to get tight and awkward.

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As hooking options diminished, I had to take care
As hooking options diminished, I had to take care
Credit: PellucidWombat
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A slip of mere inches could spell failure for the solo traverse
A slip of mere inches could spell failure for the solo traverse
Credit: PellucidWombat
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It appears that I'm about to run out of viable hooking options. I'm go...
It appears that I'm about to run out of viable hooking options. I'm going to have to suck it up and move back to free climbing soon.
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Class 3 mantel to finish the route.  Perhaps one day with smaller aide...
Class 3 mantel to finish the route. Perhaps one day with smaller aiders the route can be pushed further, but for now the early exit will have to do . . .
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Fortunately the descent from Geochronology wall was straightforward wa...
Fortunately the descent from Geochronology wall was straightforward walkoff. I needed to get back to the office!
Credit: PellucidWombat
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Special thanks to Ryan Pintar, who was willing to go along with all of this silliness and take pictures.

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  Trip Report Views: 48,718
PellucidWombat
About the Author
PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA.

Comments
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Sep 7, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
I'm hooked.

And all this without 'enhancements', or use of duct tape?
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
I meant to bring Big League Chew to help keep the hooks in place, but I forgot.
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Sep 7, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
i'd like to see what the toes of those shoes look like now
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
They look about the same as the tips of my ice tools :-) Now to polish & sharpen!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Sep 7, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
Rad shoe scuff outing!
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
  Sep 8, 2011 - 01:25am PT
classic! next goal is to hook your way up center overhang :)
bummer on the shoes tho, my louis vuittons would never forgive me!
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Sep 8, 2011 - 12:32am PT
One of the most thorough trip reports I've seen.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Sep 8, 2011 - 12:36am PT
Next time, take a geologist's hammer, so that if necessary you can pass yourself off as a devoted scientist, taking samples. Maybe blabber about doing geoisotope dating of the chips, as part of your research into the movement of tectonic plates and how that affects the San Andreas fault in that area.
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Sep 8, 2011 - 12:37am PT
Thanks for the laughs-- the necktie rest was hysterical, as were your facial expressions. Good luck and I'm looking forward to the next installment.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 8, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Would it be more badass if I drytool to the summit of a cable car?

You could connect a fifi hook to your tie next time. Nice report!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Sep 8, 2011 - 01:39am PT
You are killing me here and I'm loving it!
Way to persevere and inspire ...
Well done.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Sep 8, 2011 - 10:00am PT
Well done, love the shoes!
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Sep 8, 2011 - 10:07am PT
pretty F'n funny dude.
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Sep 8, 2011 - 11:36am PT
You just watch. Some kid with a crash pad is gonna show up and free your line.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Sep 8, 2011 - 11:47am PT
Nice footwear! I can't believe you didn't get tooled or at least taken
away for observation.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
Vitialy: Would it be more badass if I drytool to the summit of a cable car?

V, I never told you how I trained for ice climbing in the weight gym when I was living in Brooklyn, did I? >:-)
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
  Sep 8, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
Good thing you had eye protection, be carefull looking at the hooks. They can fly off and penetrate eyes.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
  Sep 8, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
Nice tr, any traing is good training.

But, I think you slung your hooks backwards. The webbing should come out the front of the hook against the rock to pull the hook into the rock.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
But, I think you slung your hooks backwards. The webbing should come out the front of the hook against the rock to pull the hook into the rock.

Yeah, I couldn't quite tell which was the best way to sling them. The way they are currently slung is pulling the hook out more, but pushing the tripod legs in better too, which maybe was making them more stable for traversing? I'll try traversing the wall again with them slung the other way for comparison.

Also, the loops were too long, so I've made them shorter.
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
  Sep 8, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
Somewhere an Italian shoemaker weeps.

Man, you're lucky you don't have the access problems some people do with buidlering.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
  Sep 8, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
next up!?


Wings of Steel! but be sure and take your necktie.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 8, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
EPIC!


you do know that it goes free all the way?
eh, as long as you don't pin it out, s'all good. ;)
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
you do know that it goes free all the way?

It seems to go at 5.7-5.8, with no need for a crash pad. What's fun is to turn the corner into the parking lot, as the entire wall is twice as long as the section I hooked! I save that section for night, though. Also fun to do with a pack & boots on :-)

Wings of Steel! but be sure and take your necktie.

With the necktie I might have to call it "Neck of Steel". Haiyo!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 8, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
Love the shark, love the food delivery,


way to SHRED THE GNAR!!!!!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Sep 8, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
The shoes and necktie rest are da Bomb!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Sep 9, 2011 - 01:17am PT
Brilliant. White shark was my fav photo. But necktie support is pretty innovative. And that precision footwear!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 9, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
hey whats the difference between a pellucid wombat and a regular lucid wombat anyway?

A pellucid wombat is an extra lucid wombat :-D
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 9, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
V, I never told you how I trained for ice climbing in the weight gym when I was living in Brooklyn, did I? >:-)


Please DO tell.

Since you are coming back with re-tied hooks maybe I can join you and we could make it into a more enjoyable outing. Climbing big wall aid route in a push is no easy task. Maybe we should bring a portaledge and some beers. Vertical camping, drink a cobra.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 9, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Please DO tell.

It sounds completely rational if you follow my line of thinking, but seems absolutely insane if you walk into a gym and see someone doing this (especially if you don't know what ice climbing is!):

1. There are some barbell exercises I read about in some training books for ice climbing where you work on the wrist-flick motion with your forearms. One book recommended doing this standing, with the barbell above your head to get the full swinging effect with the shoulders & biceps.

However, this exercise only works the pure strength nature but does little for coordination. Plus barbells keep the weight pretty close to the handle, so this mostly works the shoulders & biceps.

2. I replaced the barbells with my ice tools, and duct-taped 1/2 liter water bottles filled with water on the picks to add extra weight to the heads. Arms cocked back overhead, I worked on initiating the swing on each arm, going for 60 reps or so on each side. Weighting the heads really helps as it is much harder to do the wrist flick, which really works the forearms in initiating one!

3. I did this in front of a mirror so that I could make sure that my tools were tracking properly even as I tired out, which made for a great stabilizing exercise. Once this got easier I also stood on my toes on a platform to make it even more realistic of working body tension and balance from the front points through the swing.

BTW, I made sure to explain my idea and get permission from the gym BEFORE I brought in my tools and started swinging. Surprisingly they let me do this!

Since you are coming back with re-tied hooks maybe I can join you and we could make it into a more enjoyable outing. Climbing big wall aid route in a push is no easy task. Maybe we should bring a portaledge and some beers. Vertical camping, drink a cobra.

I've seen people practicing their portaledge setups off the 2nd floor Terrace of Evans Hall on the Berkeley Campus, which looks much better for the outing. Apparently UCPD wasn't patrolling the area too tightly or just didn't care. :-D
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 9, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
Actually I was just talking with a friend and found out he was the one I saw setting up his porta-ledge on Evans Hall.

"We did have a campus grounds guy stop to talk to us, but
strangely he wasn't upset and left us alone. Another time we did
rappel practice on and near Evans with a large CHAOS group, and the
police did come but didn't stop us."

I guess they just don't know what to do with us crazies :-)
diggler

Trad climber
Frisco, CA
  Sep 10, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
One of the more curious characters in Berkeley for sure. A first ascen... er... traverse? Good to document things like that! Glad you made it back alive. Nice TR :)
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Sep 10, 2011 - 10:11pm PT
Looks like a much better route than the one on Uxbridge Street in London.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0tDU37q2M
jonstark

Trad climber
Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts
  Sep 13, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
Hooking is the reason I carry Anbesol in my wall kit.

Looks like you had some fun.

jon
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 14, 2011 - 03:07am PT
lol, good fun all around.

Don't forget the brave souls who meticulously recorded their harrowing ascent of Mt Sunflower (aka: Mountain of Doom):

Into Thick Air

Or the FAs of 'Men at Work' on the horror show that is known as Pothole dome <:-()

Pothole Dome Alpine Style

Make sure to reference their topo if you want to repeat their line, lest you get lost & disoriented with the 'aid' suggested for the route.

Speaking of which, does anyone have any idea how I amassed the extra 30k hits on this? Did some of you get drunk and repeatedly hit the 'refresh' icon on your browser all night long?
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 14, 2011 - 03:02am PT
My bent prescription glasses were enough - they were already bent/skewed from the rigors of trad and could take the hook :-) I only blew a hook off twice on a prior attempt at the wall, neither was a surprise, and neither one hit me, though they were explosive!

It's probably a safe protocol to keep your head low & aside when aid testing, but once you've committed to standing on the aider, you're probably safe unless you do something dumb :-) Stomping hard on the aider seems to work OK if you hold the hook in your hand to keep it from bouncing off the ledge, since holding it lightly with your hand seems to do nothing to keep it from popping off the ledge.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Sep 14, 2011 - 03:48am PT
The necktie! That could be hard to explain if you slipped....

I'll bet you go from zero to expert super-hero pretty quickly whenever you try something new.
ulybaZZa

Trad climber
Bonn, Germany
  Sep 14, 2011 - 05:44am PT
Awesome! I'm inspired by your rad ascent! Ordering my hooks soon, lol!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 14, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
The necktie! That could be hard to explain if you slipped....

Fortunately I was in a static stance then. The worse that could have happened is the hook could have popped and landed me on my rump :-)

Now using a necktie as a daisy clipped to the next piece, that could result in some interesting accidents . . .

I'm also interested in the tie brand and how many KN of force that tie can handle.

Don't forget to ask about the dynamic properties, or if it is purely a static line.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Sep 14, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Be careful wearing glasses and hooking, and or bounce testing anything while wearing glasses.

Not that I see them as safety glasses, but wouldn't wearing modern glasses be safer, rather than more dangerous, for protecting the eyes? I emphasize modern in that I'm not aware of newer lenses shattering easily.

I'm just wondering since for aid climbing I could do without wearing glasses, so if they are a hazard, I might as well put them away for that sort of climbing.
YoungGun

climber
North
  Oct 18, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
When will this see a second ascent?!?!?
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
  Oct 18, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Was the helmet to protect you form the possibility of catching an errant liquor bottle or bong water drop from Casa Z?
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Oct 18, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
Where are the photos of the coppers using pepper spray and batons? And I was cringing looking at you using good looking shoes for the ascent. Maybe they kept you outta jail?
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Oct 18, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
Nice ascent and all without a cheater stick............Well done duuuude........

Stevo
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
Was the helmet to protect you form the possibility of catching an errant liquor bottle or bong water drop from Casa Z?

Pretty much. I forgot to mention that CZ is an objective hazard to the climb :-)
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Where are the photos of the coppers using pepper spray and batons? And I was cringing looking at you using good looking shoes for the ascent. Maybe they kept you outta jail?

It's amazing how far you can go if you dress nice and look like you know what you're doing ;-)

Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Nov 4, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
So you reckon you're ready for a crack at Wings of Steel yet? Maybe a little practice at an obscure quarry in SoCal, then off to the big stone? The third ascent awaits!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 4, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Sunnybeaches!

You're hot dude!

36,000 plus views of this Trip report!

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
36,000 plus views of this Trip report!

It's all one big conspiracy. I'm not sure what the payoff is, though . . .
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Nov 5, 2011 - 02:01am PT
Super funny! I've read this a few times so there is a couple hits..
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Nov 5, 2011 - 11:18am PT
This is the funniest TR ever!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
Author's Reply  Nov 11, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
are you thinking of going back for an all Tri cam ascent... er, I mean traverse?!

I think too many of the joints are too shallow & flaring to do a full traverse on only tricams. Then again I wasn't looking for a continuous string of discrete tricam placements . . . challenge accepted! ;-)

(Maybe if I get in trouble I can limit myself to bat hooking the small holes in the volcanic rock to keep it interesting)
S.Powers

Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
  Nov 11, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Classic!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Nov 13, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
does walter alvarez work in that building? you should read his book about the crater of doom before you try the second "ascent".
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
This gave me lots of laughs as I played hooky from work, Mark! The shark photo was priceless.
I think you should wear ties made of nylon webbing in future. Skinny ties are back in style now, I swear.
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Nov 15, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
Lol! Well done, well done!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Nov 5, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
Nevermind- this has the most 38000 views whaa!!!
Johnny K.

climber
  Jul 16, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
UpForSuperBetaPicMaxMark
Sioux Juan

Social climber
Canyon Lake, ca.
  Sep 18, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
I'm in on this one ...........fun stuff !
Easy Wind

Trad climber
Oakland, California
  Sep 18, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Ha! Yes!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Feb 15, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
Bump. Classic taco humor!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  May 16, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
This is SO funny!!! Great stuff! hahahahhahaaha!!
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Sep 12, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
Bump, because 41,000+ views is too little a number.
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