Trip Report
Pinnacles -

by Ed H
Thursday December 5, 2013 3:43pm
My partner Pierson Bourquin and I climbed at Pinnacles National Park for 3 days after Thanksgiving. This was my second trip (my first trip was 12 yrs ago, and I only climbed at Discovery Wall), and Pierson's first. Here is a what we learned:

1. The weather forecast for Hollister (66/37) did not match our experience. It was 27 deg on Sat and Sun morning at 8 am - Brrrr! Damn!
2. No fires are allowed due to drought conditions (see above - Brrrr!)
3. There are hot showers, but don't forget your quarters like we did
4. There is no cell coverage, so tell your loved ones you'll be 100% offline
5. High Peaks trail (5.3 mile, 1300 ft) is AWESOME. If you have not hiked this trail, do it now. Stay for sunset. Better yet, climb a loose, lichen covered, scary run out Pinnacle at sunset!
Condor Crag - home of Condor Conduit, 5.7, 4 pitches in High Peaks are...
Condor Crag - home of Condor Conduit, 5.7, 4 pitches in High Peaks area
Credit: Ed H
Credit: Ed H

Some friends joined us Saturday. Here are some of the climbs we ticked off

Discovery Wall – Portent 5.6, Ordeal 5.8, Wet Kiss 5.9, etc.
Monolith – Subterranean Tango 5.10aR and more
Tiburcio’s X – Coyote Ugly 5.9 – you need a #4 to supplement the bolts
Tourist Trap – Rat Race 5.7 – our favorite route this trip – awesome trad route with killer roof move – as good as Haystack?
The Back Door – Mr H.G. Rection 5.8 trad, Limp at Last 5.9
The Sisters – Center Route 5.5, Left Route 5.6 – great views of reservoir area
High Peaks – The Unmentionable 5.5, Hand Me Down 5.8 trad below Long’s Folley

Topping out on Monolith
Topping out on Monolith
Credit: Ed H
Tiburcio's X - home of Coyote Ugly, 5.9 mixed route
Tiburcio's X - home of Coyote Ugly, 5.9 mixed route
Credit: Mtn Project, sibylle
Rat Race 5.7 trad with cool roof move
Rat Race 5.7 trad with cool roof move
Credit: Mtn Project, powderfinger
Hand Me Down 5.8 trad route on Longs Folley, High Peaks area
Hand Me Down 5.8 trad route on Longs Folley, High Peaks area
Credit: Mtn Project, rhyang
On The Sister
On The Sister
Credit: Ed H
The Unmentionable Pinnacle...
The Unmentionable Pinnacle...
Credit: Ed H
View from behind the store
View from behind the store
Credit: Ed H
High Peaks Trail
High Peaks Trail
Credit: Ed H
Trail tunnel
Trail tunnel
Credit: Ed H
One of many crags on the way to High Peaks trail - Knuckle Ridge?
One of many crags on the way to High Peaks trail - Knuckle Ridge?
Credit: Ed H

Here is our ‘to do’ list for next trip:
1. Do more routes at Tourist Trap – area has short approach and good quality rock
2. Explore crags near the reservoir – The Hand, Gerties, The Frog
3. Check out The Yaks area
4. Lead Coyote Ugly on Tiburcio’s X again
5. Look at High Peaks climbs – Condor Conduit 5.7, 4 pitches, DragonFly Dome, Feather Canyon
6. Keep looking for Condors – 10 ft ave wing span!

Useful info:
http://pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/pinnacles-national-monument/105733947
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/

Reservoir reflection
Reservoir reflection
Credit: Ed H
Driving home
Driving home
Credit: Ed H





  Trip Report Views: 883
Ed H
About the Author
Ed H is a trad climber from Santa Rosa.

Comments
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mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Dec 5, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Nice Ed. It's a fun place. I too love the High Peaks.

You may already know this: that Pinns web forum that you linked: "Mud'nCrud" also has a very current list of newly found and/or newly established Pinnacles routes (64 of them since the 2007 guidebook).

Here's a link to that specific part of the Mud'nCrud forum:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.0
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
I love climbing at Pinnacles this time of year, but you're right; it's often quite cold. The High Peaks remains my favorite area, partly because fewer climbers are willing to walk there, but partly because so many of the routes feel more adventurous. You should add an appropriate route or two on Machete Ridge or the Balconies (particularly Lava Falls) to your to-do list.

Thanks for whetting my appetite.

John
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
cool.

I've missed Hand Me Down somehow. Thx for the pic. It's going on the list.
noal elkins

climber
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Yaks area is a definite must if you go back before the closures. If you liked the hand me down and rat race you will love Liebacker's Lullaby 5.8 2-3 pitches all gear. We did it a couple of weeks ago and my friend declared it his favorite route in the park.

I also like the routes on The Frog. No crowds , solitude, and scenic. Worth a trip out there just to do Get a Grip 10b. A fantastic route with awesome rock quality.

Thanks for the report!
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
bienvenidos a nuestro barrio Ed...give me a holla next time, would be fun to show you around a bit...
thebravecowboy

climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
looks like fun!
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Nice photos. Beautiful landscape. That Unmentionable Pinnacle looks remarkably like a giant...er...squid.

I've heard the rock's a bit crumbly in places...and some of your pix seem to bear that out. But it still looks like hella fun.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Dec 5, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
That place is a Frigidaire in the dark months.

Cool TR, Ed.

Quite surprised you've only been twice, not surprising you plan to return.

+1 for the PIX, as well.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 5, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
Yea - Twice in 12 years is not a big vote of confidence...
The reason - I can be at Lovers Leap in 2.5 hours vs 3 hours for Pinnacles - plus when it's cold you'll find me skiing and snowboarding in Tahoe.
Thanks for the beta and tour offer. The West side looks amazing.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Dec 5, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
Great place. I used to go there a few times a year when I lived in the Bay Area. Nice pictures and Unmentionable shot. TPFU
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 7, 2013 - 06:54am PT
Nice!!!
eKat

Trad climber
  Dec 7, 2013 - 08:16am PT
MAN. . . did that bring back some memories!

TFPU!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Dec 7, 2013 - 11:35am PT
Nice TR! Makes me long for the Pinnacles . . . spent some formative years climbing there.
mynameismud

climber
backseat
  Dec 7, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
I do no think that is Knuckle Ridge. I think it is Pinch and Lynch Wall.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Dec 7, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Oh, I didn't notice that, but he is correct. Knuckle Ridge is half a mile south of what's in the photo.
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