Trip Report
Photo essay, Cascade winter climbing '09

by RDB
Sunday February 22, 2009 9:54am
I thought some here might enjoy a look at a tiny bit of our exceptional '09 season in the NW. Ice everywhere with low avi danger...is very unusual! Grass, trees, moss, dirt and munge are all new to me as a climbing media but I am beginning to really appreciate them here.

Trip: Northwest Face of Mtn Snoqualmie, Pineapple Express, "Blue Moon"

Date: 2/19/2009


The view from high on Phantom Slide going in.
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The scene of the crime. Pineapple Express in orange.,

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Craig's photo. Wayne and Craig's 2 pitch, direct variation, Blue Moon marked on the full line of PE


The Blue Moon variation should be obvious in both pictures. And more direct than either line topo suggests. The ice hose and chimney pitches are just left of the smaller rock head walls and just right of the orange topo @ mid height. The obvious ice hose dissappears into the chimney in Cauthorn's picture. From that '05 picture I have to assume the line is generally there and "in".

First pitch snice
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For the most part the entire route was solid sticks in snice with a good water ice base.
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The money pitches on Blue Moon are #2 the ice hose and #3 the amazing Scottish chimney.

This comment from Craig aka Alpinemonkey on Blue Moon's first ascent":

"I didn't lead our second pitch that may have been the crux, but it had about 3 moves off the deck that were a little thin and hard. After that it seemed sort of like moderate thin ice/dirt climbing, a little run out, but not unreasonable."

Pretty sustained pitch, thin ice on the bottom, with a hand crack in the corner mid pitch that will get the attention of most. Big Cams in hidden placements made the run outs resonable. Much steeper than it first appears. But, hey, the landing looks good :)

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The 3rd pitch starts from a physically tight belay (fixed stopper) inside a deep, 3' wide chimney. The leader will be dropping EVERYTHING that comes off down on you. On our ascent I could not turn side ways because of our (small) pack, couldn't see and was swimming in snow. I had the wind knocked out of me by a big piece of ice I unknowingly took full in the chest. It is a short crux right off, on a 60m pitch but awesome position, spectacular visuals and hard climbing. This was the crux of the climb for us @ M5/6 with perfect dry tooling to get to the chockstone, and then ice, to get on to the chock stone, (FP just below it). Thankfully ice at your back and over the top in there, it was weird and way fun. Awesome pro. You exit the chimney onto steep tree climbing and end on a fairly flat bench with fair size trees for a belay.

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Pretty much simul climbing to NY gully from there for us.
Last pitch of NY Gully had a bit of a sting to it with all the new snow and big gloves.

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Camera failed here from the cold, so no pics of Jens, again leading in fine style and me floundering about with the pack. But it looked a lot like this pic of Marko's from a few days earlier.

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These two pics are of the last bit after the crux of NY gully.

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Blue Moon variation of PE
Pitch 1 - 60 meters WI 3
Pitch 2 - 60 meters thin and delicate WI4 new
Pitch 3 - 60 meters, ungraceful chimney but short M5/6-new
Next - bunch of simul climbing
Pitch 4 - step off into NY Gully and climb to corner crack
Pitch 5 - Corner crux of NY gully 5.8 M4
Final- easy but exposed traverse to the ridge

4 to 6" of new snow on the ground in the Phantom slide and it snowed most of the day on us, enough to get small spindrift avis on the first 3 pitches.

A fine climb! Excellent position and a few stellar sections.

Blue Moon a 2 pitch direct variation of Pineapple Express IV WI4 R M6 5.8

The original ascent account of Pineapple Express.

"On February 9, 2005, Roger Strong and I climbed a new route up the longest portion of the Northwest Face of Mount Snoqualmie. We approached from the Alpental parking lot, ascended the Phantom Slide to the northwestern shoulder of Snoqualmie, dropped into the Thunder Creek drainage, and then traversed beneath the New York Gully area to the lowest toe of the rock buttress. The first pitch started just left of the lowest point of rock and climbed a thin slab of ice hidden in a long right-facing corner (WI3+ R). After this pitch we trended up and left, pulling steep heather into a mixed gully leading to a tree belay beneath a rock headwall. The superb third pitch climbed the steep right-facing corner to a tree belay (M6 with good gear). Pitch 4 led up and right into snow and trees. The next pitch squeezed through the trees and traversed right to a 5.8 rock step that led up to a tree belay. We then continued up easy mixed ground to a flat ledge beneath the huge headwall that guards the top to the Northwest Face. We then traversed easily along a spectacular ledge system rightward to join the last two pitches of New York Gully. In total, we did nine long 60-meter pitches. For gear, include a couple of thin pitons along with cams to 3” and many slings in the rack. IV M6 5.8 WI3+."

Some of this stuff forms once in a decade. Amazing...as it was just like climbing in the Candian Rockies during late sping but only 45 min from dt Seattle!

Both climbs are obvious on the cliff directly above Source Lake.

In good nick you'll get 3 pitches, 130' WI4, 110' WI5R and 130' WI4. The line is easily one of the best water ice climbs in Washington.

Climber high on the 1st pitch.
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No camera tilt here on P2, it really is that over hanging, which is unusual anywhere on ice.

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Down from mid pitch 2.
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P3
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Here are pics from an early season ascent, different year, of the same climb @ WI 5R, M5 with 4 pitches. (one more of mixed to get started)

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The one pitch wonder....
By passing the funky anchor set right at the base of the crux, we did as a fun enduro pitch @ WI4 60m

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Again looking down mid pitch.
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Gear Notes:
This season things are obviously in. Bring more than a few shorty screws and new rap tat for the trees if you don't make it during '09.

  Trip Report Views: 1,795
RDB
About the Author
RDB is a social climber from way out there.

Comments
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:01am PT
Nice Dane! I saw that over on the other forum - way to get after it!

I bet the ice climbs at Alpental are in big this year, too.

Erik
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:09am PT
Hey Eric, unbelieveable amount of ice this year! For once I am not having to drive a zillion miles to get out :)

Thought about duplication on the posts from another forum but the season is so exceptional I thought others might enjoy seeing it.
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:15am PT
Thanks Dane,

Exceptional photography, glad you had a fantastic season.
perswig

climber
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:28am PT
Rock on, Great Dane!
That's some excellent climbing you're getting after, and infectious glee to boot. I may have to buy my tools back.
Thanks for the pics, TR and history.

Dale

("But, hey, the landing looks good :)" I hear that.)

Edit: how do you like the Nomics?

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:41am PT
Hurrah for the Cascades!

Good images. Thanks for keeping them small.

The blue sky was a little strange.
couchmaster

climber
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:45am PT
Great stuff Dane, thanks for all the pictures!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:47am PT
Great stuff, thanks for posting.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:49am PT
Heard this late last night from an eye whitness.

Couple of guys start up Pineapple Express yesterday. Rope runs out on the first 150' of Grade 3 ice and 50' of steep snow that is interlaced with decent size fir trees.


Leader the yells down for his second to start simul climbing. Second is a good 100' up the first ice pitch when the leader rips both picks out of a M4 mixed pitch just left of this line.
At a similar elevation and steepness from what I could see.


Leader falls the distance shown here..plus all but 20/30' of the first 60m pitch. He doesn't deck only because his rope hangs up on one of the trees above as all his pro rips. After seeing his leader literally go winging past him the second has to climb up just get the slack in the rope as he lowers his injured and non mobile leader to the ground. Then he rigs a rappel on their dbl ropes (one which has been nearly cut in half with only threads connecting it) to get off. Well over a 300' screamer by my calculations. Haven't heard of the injury list yet but they refused help from the two parties on the Mtn yesterday with the leader literally crawling out of the basin and down the 1000m Phantom slide. Some lucky dudes there!

SSheeeeeeeetttttttttt!
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Holy crap! Update us when you hear more. Trees good!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Feb 22, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
Hey Dane,

Thanks for this little window into the modern -- with an exceptional ice year to go with it, eh?

Keep us posted on that epic fall. Easy ground'll get ya. Good thing the landing looked so good.
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Feb 22, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
Great job Dane~

It has been a strange year up in Sedro too!

Thanks for the post,
Thor

Awesome stuff, Man!!!
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Feb 22, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
great pix. amazing how much stuff is left to do in the cascades.
i still have projects that i'll probably never get back for.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Feb 22, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
Nice outings Dane! Ice on the west side is pretty fugitive but that stuff looks great. Thanks for posting.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Feb 22, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
Is the climb named for that famous bar in Seattle? The Blue Moon - first bar to reopen after prohibition?
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Feb 22, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
Man, that tie-dyed pool table always messed with my shooting!
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Feb 22, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
Glad you guys are enjoying it. Big fun for an old fat guy living out his 2nd life. Another big week out coming up. 60F here today so it should be interesting!

Blue moon? No man...ice like this is seen around here....once in a "blue moon!"

Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Feb 22, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
Thanks to Mr. Google, as my father calls it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue_Moon_Tavern

It doesn't really seem the sort of place that would have its own website, although I looked. Sure are lots of websites that refer to it.

Perhaps when we have the Seattle & vicinity SuperTopo gathering (paging Wayno!? hint hint), hopefully sometime soon, we can include a visit to the Blue Moon, and perhaps a toast in Ouch!'s memory.
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Feb 22, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
Dane, hope you and Wayne had a few of these after your send:




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Feb 22, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
Very nice presentation Dane! I especially enjoy the POV's.
'Glad you posted up on both forums: this is the only one I visit.

Good thing that camera held out as long as it did...
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Feb 23, 2009 - 01:23am PT
!!!TR!!!
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Feb 23, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
[quote=Kyle_Flick] I was with Craig G. Sun. morning, and we were the first ones at the scene after the fall. The leader has 20 years leading experience and was quite thankful to be alive. He took a long fall and possibly pulled tendons in one of his ankles. Other than cuts and bruises he was alert and responsive. We and another party offered to assist, but once he was given a ski pole he insisted on evacuating on his own (with his partner). If he had difficulties enroute, the plan was for him to call out on his cell phone to the ski patrol at Alpental.
When we got done with the climb around 4:00 pm, I checked with the ski patrol and they hadn't received any call. So they were alerted to look for them. We hope he got out okay, and after several months of rehab will be out there again. [/quote]
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Feb 23, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
Nice !
IntheFog

climber
Mostly the next place
  Feb 25, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Bump for the fat old guy having fun getting up the ice.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Apr 1, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
and still having fun!


Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Apr 1, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Great post dude! Way to be gettin it done. Mt Hood was blasted by 10 inches or so of pure corn snow yesterday and major league winds, and then warming trend this afternoon probably similar to Snoqualmie Pass peaks current weather. Spring is in the air, but old man winter still holds the cards.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Apr 1, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
Snowing right now at my place. Snoqualmie has had something like 5 feet in the last 2 weeks and snowing like crazy again today.

Be nice to get in one more hard freeze before the next chinook cleans it all off.
corniss chopper

climber
breaking the speed of gravity
  Apr 1, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
winter pics of climbing in the cascades are generally
white out with the climber hugging a snow face with much
accumulated snow on his head and pack with blurry snowflakes
speeding sideways.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Apr 1, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
sweet Dane that looks killer!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Apr 1, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
Great stuff! Thanks for posting up.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
  Apr 1, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Awesome climbing! Gear question; what do you think of those Batura La Sportiva boots?

Patrick
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 2, 2009 - 02:11am PT
SSssssWWWeeeeeeEEEttttTTTT! X2.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Apr 2, 2009 - 02:38am PT
Really nice, Dane! Makes me wish I had some tools. Great post!
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Author's Reply  Apr 2, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
"Gear question; what do you think of those Batura La Sportiva boots?"

Couple of us climbing in the Batura for the 2nd season. Bit warmer than the other Sportiva single boots out there. (I use several Sportiva models) Stiff sole and a soft ankle on the Batura. Works great for me on mixed or long approaches but I like a little more ankle support on steep ice, so I generally use the Nepal Evo there. Batura's gaiter seems to be up to the task and very durable. Nice boot....in a size 45 it would be a great boot for me if the ankle had a little more support.

But only my opinion. Others use them every where with zero complaints.

Byron

Ice climber
Uxbridge, MA
  Apr 9, 2009 - 10:12am PT
Thanks for the pics, guys! Looks like a superfun route. nice daydream for a frustrated ice climber stuck at home with a newborn...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jun 29, 2009 - 01:21am PT
WOW!
ICE IS NICE!!!!!

Great report and send, guys!!!!!
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
  Jun 30, 2009 - 05:24am PT
nice to read about some ice and snow to cool myself down in these summer temps
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