Trip Report
Palisades Cruising in 1982.
Sunday March 10, 2013 4:53am
August. Burned out on Tahquitz and Jim says, "Time for the Pals." I agree.
Jam out of Ventura County to the trailhead and camp at one of the lakes that evening. My neck needs relief, it's pinched and very painful. But the routes we've got in mind are Third Class/Fourth Class on two of the Northern Palisade group, Mt. Sill, the behemoth, and Mt. Winchell, a doughnut. We like cake. Will we eat it?

p. 201, Roper's Climber's Guide to the High Sierra.
p. 201, Roper's Climber's Guide to the High Sierra.
Credit: mouse from merced
Mouse and the Palisades Shooting Gallery.  Mt. Sill on the left.  Mt. ...
Mouse and the Palisades Shooting Gallery. Mt. Sill on the left. Mt. Winchell on right.
Credit: Jim Shirley

Let me assure you, I really needed a soft day the next morning.
Self-absorbed. <br/>
Mountain meditation.
Self-absorbed.
Mountain meditation.
Credit: mouse from merced
Palisade Galcier.
Palisade Galcier.
Credit: Jim Shirley
I accompanied Jim onto the Palisade Glacier and who the hell is that?

Bardini
Bardini
Credit: guido
Himself!

Awesomely auspicious, I must say! Two clients in tow, so we couldn't dick around long, but the vibes were just the thing to send us on with glee and high jinx.
Jim ShirleY and Pal.
Jim ShirleY and Pal.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Looking east from Mt. Gayley, over the approach to the Palisades.
Looking east from Mt. Gayley, over the approach to the Palisades.
Credit: Jim Shirley
On the Palisade Glacier following our meeting with Bardini.
On the Palisade Glacier following our meeting with Bardini.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Credit: Jim Shirley
What a grind!  My neck's killing me!  Fack the scenery. <br/>
What a grind! My neck's killing me! Fack the scenery.

Credit: Jim Shrilley.
Wandering around Gayley beneath Mt. Silly...
Wandering around Gayley beneath Mt. Silly...
Credit: mouse from merced
Behemoth.
Behemoth.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Because I could not bear thinking about the climb up Mt. Sill, Jim decided he'd try it solo. I would go over to the nearby Mt. Gayley, more than happy to shoot his ascent from there. We got back to camp before the shadows got real long and I downed some pain pills and we slept like dead things.

Next day, the two of us headed to Mt. Winchell, north of the Very Obtrusive Buttress of Thunderbolt. A large notch divides the two peaks. We chose to leave the rope in camp. Third class all the way with massive drop-offs, especially to the north towards Mt. Agassiz.

Winchell's summit is sweet as sin. You'll love it!

Middle Palisade.
Middle Palisade.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Palisade Glacier, Thunderbolt's NE Buttress on right.
Palisade Glacier, Thunderbolt's NE Buttress on right.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Mt. Winchell, East Arete, Class 3.
Mt. Winchell, East Arete, Class 3.
Credit: mouse from merced
Beginning the East Arete on Mt. Winchell.  Pal, you may live under all...
Beginning the East Arete on Mt. Winchell. Pal, you may live under all that moraine still, but yur gonna die sometime. Hope it's not for a long while.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Looking south from the Winchell Third Class route to the notch.
Looking south from the Winchell Third Class route to the notch.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Mouse on Mt. Winchell.
Mouse on Mt. Winchell.
Credit: Jim Shirley
The NE Buttress of Thunderbolt and run-out from the N Couloir.
The NE Buttress of Thunderbolt and run-out from the N Couloir.
Credit: Jim Shirley
Mt. Sill, Middle Palisade, Starlight and Thunderbolt. <br/>
Edit:  What a ...
Mt. Sill, Middle Palisade, Starlight and Thunderbolt.
Edit: What a muddle--it's North PayPal, not Middle--thanks, GeneNotManySummitsAloneMaloneTheGeneGenialGiant
Credit: mouse from merced
Summit of Mt. Winchell.  Mt. Agassiz behind the Mod.  For some reason,...
Summit of Mt. Winchell. Mt. Agassiz behind the Mod. For some reason, my neck pain disappered on the way up! Yeah, that's a ciggy-butt.
Credit: Jim Shirley
We had to come down, but you don't, you know. I thought that summit looked a bivy-lover's hang, if any there is one on a summit in the Sierra Nevada.

Palisades from the west side from a different trip.  Winchell's tip is...
Palisades from the west side from a different trip. Winchell's tip is just visible onthe left.
Credit: Jim Shirley
The Palisades Crest from the west.
The Palisades Crest from the west.
Credit: Jim Shirley
I hope you enjoyed the time warp. My pleasure and Jim's as well. When I questioned him whether this was August or July of 1982, he suggested I check the date stamps. You have the slides now, Jim, remember?

He also recalled in that same e-mail: "I remember meeting John Fischer on the approach somewhere, and stupidly asking what they were going to use the x-c skis for. (Duh…). There is a glacier up there Jim."

The One enthroned in heaven laughs;
the Lord scoffs at them.--Psalm Numero Dos

  Trip Report Views: 1,783
mouse from merced
About the Author
mouse from merced is a trad climber from merced, california.

Comments
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10b4me

climber
  Mar 10, 2013 - 11:43am PT
Winchell's summit is sweet as sin. You'll love it!

That is a neat summit. Managed to get seven of us on it
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Mar 10, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Cool BITD TR Mouse.
Thanks for the Palisade share!
Is there anything left of Palisade glacier these days?
Tad
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Mar 10, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Thanks Mouse!

I started my own mountain life in the summer of 1976, backpacking into Dusy Basin from South Lake with the scout troop. We got glimpses of the Palisades on this trip and saw real mountaineers with ice axes and crampons . . . life was never the same after that.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Mar 10, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
nice photos despite the dark exposures

glacier actually looked healthy instead of its current sad-sack state
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Mar 10, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Who hasnt stumbled nto sam mack after a LONGER than expected day on the PALS!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 10, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Very cool, thanks Mouse!
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Mar 10, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
There used to be snow up there? That's so cool. Who knew?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 10, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
awesome report mouse, NE ridge of thunderbolt was my first ever 5th class climb in the mountains. we had an epic up there! been back for swiss arete and more climbing in the palisades and around. love that place. thank you for posting!
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
  Mar 11, 2013 - 12:07am PT
Was hiking thru the sage in the glass mts. today and had a great veiw of the whole palisade range from north to south..Had never seen the whole palisade range in one shot...To the west i could see the minarets and Mt. Wood to the north...thanks for the pics...RJ
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Author's Reply  Mar 24, 2013 - 05:25am PT
I think it was in '95 that the Rev and I cruised to the White Mtns. and viewed the T-storms advance S to N across the Pal Crest from that vantage. It was Soo-perb!
Tree-mendous!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Mar 24, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Great pic of the Bardini. I was helping him and Doug Robinson guide in the Palisades during that time.

They introduced me to wine bouldering, which is a hoot. You do a follow the leader bouldering session with a mug of wine in your hand. You chug it at the top.

It ended up with us climbing trees, you name it. Bardini was hilarious. One funny dude. Him and Carter could have made it in Vegas they were so funny.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Wow great pictures and a nice write up. How are the glaciers hanging in there these days?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Liked it...a lot.

Susan
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Had a good beat, I could dance to it. I gave it a 10.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Mouse, I thought you were allergic to snow? Glad the neck came around!
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