Trip Report
Palisades Cruising in 1982.
Sunday March 10, 2013 4:53am
August. Burned out on Tahquitz and Jim says, "Time for the Pals." I agree.
Jam out of Ventura County to the trailhead and camp at one of the lakes that evening. My neck needs relief, it's pinched and very painful. But the routes we've got in mind are Third Class/Fourth Class on two of the Northern Palisade group, Mt. Sill, the behemoth, and Mt. Winchell, a doughnut. We like cake. Will we eat it?

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Let me assure you, I really needed a soft day the next morning.
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I accompanied Jim onto the Palisade Glacier and who the hell is that?

Bardini
Bardini
Credit: guido
Himself!

Awesomely auspicious, I must say! Two clients in tow, so we couldn't dick around long, but the vibes were just the thing to send us on with glee and high jinx.
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Because I could not bear thinking about the climb up Mt. Sill, Jim decided he'd try it solo. I would go over to the nearby Mt. Gayley, more than happy to shoot his ascent from there. We got back to camp before the shadows got real long and I downed some pain pills and we slept like dead things.

Next day, the two of us headed to Mt. Winchell, north of the Very Obtrusive Buttress of Thunderbolt. A large notch divides the two peaks. We chose to leave the rope in camp. Third class all the way with massive drop-offs, especially to the north towards Mt. Agassiz.

Winchell's summit is sweet as sin. You'll love it!

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We had to come down, but you don't, you know. I thought that summit looked a bivy-lover's hang, if any there is one on a summit in the Sierra Nevada.

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I hope you enjoyed the time warp. My pleasure and Jim's as well. When I questioned him whether this was August or July of 1982, he suggested I check the date stamps. You have the slides now, Jim, remember?

He also recalled in that same e-mail: "I remember meeting John Fischer on the approach somewhere, and stupidly asking what they were going to use the x-c skis for. (Duh…). There is a glacier up there Jim."

The One enthroned in heaven laughs;
the Lord scoffs at them.--Psalm Numero Dos

  Trip Report Views: 3,251
mouse from merced
About the Author
mouse from merced is a trad climber from merced, california.

Comments
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10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Mar 10, 2013 - 11:43am PT
Winchell's summit is sweet as sin. You'll love it!

That is a neat summit. Managed to get seven of us on it
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Mar 10, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Thanks Mouse!

I started my own mountain life in the summer of 1976, backpacking into Dusy Basin from South Lake with the scout troop. We got glimpses of the Palisades on this trip and saw real mountaineers with ice axes and crampons . . . life was never the same after that.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Mar 10, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
nice photos despite the dark exposures

glacier actually looked healthy instead of its current sad-sack state
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 10, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Very cool, thanks Mouse!
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Mar 10, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
There used to be snow up there? That's so cool. Who knew?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 10, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
awesome report mouse, NE ridge of thunderbolt was my first ever 5th class climb in the mountains. we had an epic up there! been back for swiss arete and more climbing in the palisades and around. love that place. thank you for posting!
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
  Mar 11, 2013 - 12:07am PT
Was hiking thru the sage in the glass mts. today and had a great veiw of the whole palisade range from north to south..Had never seen the whole palisade range in one shot...To the west i could see the minarets and Mt. Wood to the north...thanks for the pics...RJ
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Author's Reply  Mar 24, 2013 - 05:25am PT
I think it was in '95 that the Rev and I cruised to the White Mtns. and viewed the T-storms advance S to N across the Pal Crest from that vantage. It was Soo-perb!
Tree-mendous!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Mar 24, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Great pic of the Bardini. I was helping him and Doug Robinson guide in the Palisades during that time.

They introduced me to wine bouldering, which is a hoot. You do a follow the leader bouldering session with a mug of wine in your hand. You chug it at the top.

It ended up with us climbing trees, you name it. Bardini was hilarious. One funny dude. Him and Carter could have made it in Vegas they were so funny.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Wow great pictures and a nice write up. How are the glaciers hanging in there these days?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Liked it...a lot.

Susan
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Had a good beat, I could dance to it. I gave it a 10.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Mar 25, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Mouse, I thought you were allergic to snow? Glad the neck came around!
Zay

climber
Monterey, Ca
  Feb 20, 2019 - 07:59am PT
Time warp enthusiating.

Say, how does one get into routes that are more third and fourth class up in places like that?

I've been nurturing an enthusiasm for adventures of the sort...
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Feb 20, 2019 - 08:06am PT
ah, the classic Nen-i-mish. That place is pretty serene
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Feb 20, 2019 - 08:17am PT
Say, how does one get into routes that are more third and fourth class up in places like that?

Get a hold of the guide book "The High Sierra", by the late RJ Secor.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Author's Reply  Feb 20, 2019 - 11:48am PT
ms55401, the Windows Vista system I had when I posted these pics was unable to do what the current Windows 10 can do.

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I'm thinkin' of lettin' the rest stand as they are.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Feb 20, 2019 - 08:20am PT

That's a cool photo-cruise...
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
  Feb 20, 2019 - 10:57am PT
Nice pics!

The glaciers are still there, though they are losing ice volume & depth. The Palisade glacier is by far the largest in the Sierra. Or you could say it's the only one that isn't quite small.
Where you notice it the most is in the couloirs, which in many years melt out by late summer.

you might want to fix a few more captions.
The two pics near the end labeled "taken from the west" are actually from the north from somewhere near Sam Mack. You can see the distinct snow field on the N. Pal that is just looker's right of the U-notch
And there's another labelled Middle Pal which is actually Thunderbolt.
Jamesthomsen

Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
  Feb 20, 2019 - 05:30pm PT
Thank you, I had not seen this before! My very favorite climbing area for so many years. My first real climbing peak was North Pal in 1967. And then I just kept going there to do the peaks. Those were fun days, when Don Jenson (I was a Math logic student at UCLA and he had a PHD in it), Smoke Blanchard and John Fischer were locals. Wow, I still miss John, we had some good times. And that photo of Bardini brings him back alive. Thanks.
In about 1970 I even did Thunderbolt when it was A1. Someone had left a sling tied to the bolt/register and i used it as a hand hold.
I haven't been back in years, maybe this summer will be nice with lots of winter snow.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Feb 20, 2019 - 07:26pm PT
Nice bumpage! I never read the report first time around. Good one Mouse.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 20, 2019 - 09:33pm PT
hey there say, mouse... wow, love this... had not seen it...

:)
Zay

climber
Monterey, Ca
  Feb 21, 2019 - 09:19am PT
Roger on "The High Sierra" by RJ Secor.

Thank you!!!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
  Feb 21, 2019 - 11:07am PT
Hey, Mouse, that photo of Bardini that you credited to Guido (aka Joe McKeown) was actually taken by Julia Barklow, the feminine side of the Barklows, Jules and John, Bardini's favorite client couple.
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