Trip Report
Nose and Triple Direct in a Push
Tuesday October 18, 2011 12:27am
Fresh off another 60-hour work week, I and my partner Jason, who has also been working many hours himself, decided to make a run for El Capitan. Jason flew into Fresno from Boulder at 3PM. I left my teaching job in Palmdale at 2:30 and was in Fresno by 6 p.m. on Friday. In the Valley by 9 p.m., plans were decided at 9:45 and in the tent by 10.
Clean granite on The Captain
Clean granite on The Captain
Credit: Tim Klein

Up at 5:30 a.m. making the usual breakfast, which for me consists of two peanut butter and honey sandwiches and for Jason some yogurt that comes in a pink carton decorated with yellow flowers. Both of us chugged some instant Starbucks coffee and were on our way to the Meadow.
Jason making breakfast in UpperPines
Jason making breakfast in UpperPines
Credit: Tim Klein
After seeing headlamps every 100 or so feet on the Nose, Jason and I decided to shoot for Triple Direct. 6:30 a.m. put us at the base where we saw a party racking up and EC legend, Steve Gerberdine and Wife Cal who were planning on spending a couple of days on the route. Fortunately, both teams allowed us the privilege of pole position and Jason took off. Jason once again pulled out all of the tricks on the FreeBlast and we stood on the pitch above Mammoth in well under 2 hrs.
Jason out for a morning jog up FreeBlast
Jason out for a morning jog up FreeBlast
Credit: Tim Klein
Since the next section called for some 5.13 climbing and Jason is only capable of leading multiple 12's on The Captain, I decided to take the sharp end and show him how to get things done at 5.7 C1. The next few pitches were clean, exposed and quite classic. A couple of hours later we found ourselves meeting some of the masses on the Nose. Below the GR we ran into a NIAD party from France and Simon Anthamatten. Simon, who made a name for himself this past year in the Valley, greeted us with a huge smile. As someone who makes big goals and accomplishes what he sets out to do, he took obvious pleasure in seeing those around him do the same.
Tim trying to muscle his way through C1
Tim trying to muscle his way through C1
Credit: Tim Klein
Clean and exposed cracks on the Muir
Clean and exposed cracks on the Muir
Credit: Tim Klein

Continued to make progress, and were able to top out in a little over 10 hours.
Tim headed for the Glowing Spot
Tim headed for the Glowing Spot
Credit: Tim Klein
Packed up and hiked down the E. Ledges. Conversation primarily revolved around old age and injuries that we have recently accumulated. For me it has been Plantar Fasciitis causing me to walk with a limp. Jason, recently injured his shoulder by using a plastic, 2 ounce, Lowe's industrial strength fly swatter while trying to kill a, "huge” fly in his house.
Jason trying to hold in the excitement after topping out.
Jason trying to hold in the excitement after topping out.
Credit: Tim Klein
Since the Nose seemed to clear out some, and we knew that upon return to society we would be hit with many work-related demands, we decided to shoot for a Double EC day.

We spent a little over an hour eating canned sardines, trout, and herring from Trader Joe’s, drinking double shots, calling home to our wives and kids, and cleaning up which consisted of dipping the lower feet in the stream. Found ourselves the base of the Nose at 8 pm. In usual form, Jason took the sharp end. While I figured we would see a couple of parties past camp IV, our relationship-building skills were put to the test starting on Sickle. We ended up passing parties camped on all ledges including a couple of parties in port-a-ledges. During the lower sections, Jason was somehow able to arrange the rope to make sure it kept smacking every sleeping individual in the head, setting me up for an explanation and profuse apologies. After explaining to each party that my partner was on a quest to set the Nose at Night Record, they just waved me on.
Somewhere on the Nose at Night
Somewhere on the Nose at Night
Credit: Tim Klein
I took over at the base of the GR where Jason turned on the Metallica. Typically, Jason is quite an astute, well-mannered, and professional young man, but given a track of Metallica, he turns the other cheek. Yelling so hard, people driving through the meadow were honking, Jason's demeanor kept me going through the a.m. hours.
Jason with the Metalica rolling
Jason with the Metalica rolling
Credit: Tim Klein
With two pitches to go and the IAD quickly fading away as I moved slower and slower, Jason took the aiders. Delirium must have set in as Jason does not know how to use aiders. While quite fun to watch him try as it is like forcing a cow to step across a cattle guard, he is still learning the art of how to put his foot in each strap. Fortunately, he had enough power to clip the aiders on his harness and French-free the overhanging bolt ladder as we topped out at 7:20 a.m....24 hours and 30 minutes after we started at the base of TD.
Hard to beat the topout on EC!
Hard to beat the topout on EC!
Credit: Tim Klein
An hour and a half later we were back to the meadow eating some snacks which would tide us over for the drive back. I took the first shift which eventually got us to Oakhurst. Jason took over from there where he was able to get us 6 miles past the airport, who while oblivious to the freeway signs was able to follow “the nearby jets in the sky.” Always a fun adventure to be had on EC!

  Trip Report Views: 9,864
Tim Klein
About the Author
Tim Klein currently lives with his Wife JJ and two boys Levi and Jack in the 5 Star Resort Town of Palmdale, California. He works as a high school teacher, grant writer, program director, and college instructor.


Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 18, 2011 - 12:38am PT
bad ass! Thanks.

Trad climber
  Oct 18, 2011 - 12:39am PT
That was an epic tr.

Thank you for posting.

You guys kick major ass.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Oct 18, 2011 - 12:48am PT
hell yea! what a weekend!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Oct 18, 2011 - 02:00am PT
Amazing. Some of us are dreaming about climbing the Nose some day in 3 days. Some of us do it twice in a day. Awesome!!!!

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Oct 18, 2011 - 09:04am PT
Bump cause this NEEDS to be on the front page! Sick!

Trad climber
  Oct 18, 2011 - 09:25am PT
Holy shit!

  Oct 18, 2011 - 09:32am PT
Awesome!! You forgot to rotate some of the photos, though =)

Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
  Oct 18, 2011 - 09:32am PT
Holy Shite! Impressive to say the least. And a great TR too. Thanks guys. I can't imagine trying to drive after that effort though.

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Oct 18, 2011 - 09:33am PT

Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
  Oct 18, 2011 - 09:46am PT
From the EC Report 10/15

"Nose: Several teams were headed up the Nose today, most doing NIADs. However they all got jammed in the Gray Bands as a team came over from the 3D. This congestion caused a lot of time to be lost and one team bailed rather than deal with the sh#t."

Sounds like quite the cluster:-) Glad you guys were able to squeeze through.

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Oct 18, 2011 - 10:20am PT
You two are savage! nice double push
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Oct 18, 2011 - 10:31am PT
Sickness!!! The "no sleep" thing bends my mind.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Oct 18, 2011 - 10:43am PT
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  Oct 18, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
So awesome!

Jason appears to have used two different harnesses for the day,

but apparently needs no other gear!

It would be an honor to slapped in the head by you guys' rope.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
  Oct 18, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
Right on guys.

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 18, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
That is some serious multi-dimensional cross-mojination.

Social climber
  Oct 18, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
Was wondering what you guys were up to.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 19, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Captain...or Skully

Boise, ID
  Oct 20, 2011 - 08:40am PT
That's a helluva trip. TFPU!@!!
Appreciate you takin' us along.

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 20, 2011 - 08:51am PT
wish I could make use of a day like that, awesome!

thanks for posting,
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Oct 20, 2011 - 11:19am PT
Whoa dudes!

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Oct 20, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
Hope that got you through the week!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 20, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
I hate you. You did in 10 hours what took us 5 days.

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Oct 20, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
Awesome report, sounds like you guys had a ton of fun

Trad climber
  Oct 20, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
wow, thats impressive and thanks for the post

Trad climber
  Oct 20, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
warms the heart to see family guys getting it on,,,at pushing 60 and taking a break from gravity for 3 years ,,my fellow cosmic bandito brother ,,survival,,egged me up some awesome new mex, stone,,keep the faith brothers of the third stone,,peaceand love,,,

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
  Oct 23, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
yuppies and metallica climbing el cap at night. what has this world come to?

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Oct 23, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
Good Show Bump

  Oct 23, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
Proud indeed.

Social climber
  Jun 2, 2018 - 09:50pm PT
hey there say... i know you are both gone now...
this was a wonderful memory of yours, from the past...

i will keep this in my heart and remember you both...

(thanks to kunlun_shan, for sharing the link) ...

will keep your loved-ones, in my heart and prayers...

  Jun 3, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
Wow I just read the whole thing without realizing that these are the two that died on Freeblast the other day. Sobering to say the least. Excellent trip report and may both climbers rest in peace.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 3, 2018 - 12:43pm PT
To do the things they did and have such a lighthearted, humorous, take on the whole thing....
Cheers men!
See you on the other side.

Trad climber
  Jun 6, 2018 - 06:58am PT
Bump for these two men! Rest easy guys. What a life you guys lived! Amazing...

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
  Jun 14, 2018 - 12:09pm PT
Neebee thanks for resurrecting this report. It was great to read and wish we could resurrect them. Glad to know they are resting in peace, sad there will be no more TR's from them. Truly wonderful guys, a climbing team to be emulated.