Northwest Books 5.6

 
  • Currently 3.0/5
Search
Go

Lembert Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Northwest Books (TR)
Monday June 25, 2007 3:06pm
I know, I know, a TR about a 5.6 climb is kinda weak but I'm gonna tell it anyway. All my usual partners were injured or busy but a German buddy of mine hadn't ever been to Tuolumne and was eager to do his first multi-pitch climb...so it was on! I figured Northwest Books on Lembert would be perfect because I had never led all of it and it's a beautiful and easy multi-pitch in a stunning setting. We drove all day Friday and decided to knock it out Friday late afternoon, leaving all Saturday to do other things.

We arrive at the rock at 4:30pm and I point to the route.
For those who don't know it, it follow the obvious 'books'.
Scramble up to the base. Peter (my buddy) found the perfect Tuolumne souvenir here...a medium-sized stopper someone must have dropped. Sweet!
I decided to do the 3 pitch variation (instead of 2 long ones) and Peter decided to take a self-portrait at the first belay.
I really, really had to pee so I relieved myself in a discreet crack and Peter caught me finishing up. The 5.9 variation follows the crack straight up from this belay.
At the top of the route I got a nice pic of what a very happy German looks like after his first multi-pitch.
We opted for the longer, easier walk-off. It was probably a good idea because even on this walk-off I could hear Peter cursing in German as we came down the slabs.

It was a great time. We spent the rest of the trip kicking back and doing some top-ropes on the Western Front. The 5.10's there are really nice and give you an idea knob-climbing Tuolumne-style. I think Peter commented that those 5.9 and 5.10 knob climbs were considerably harder than 5.10's in the gym. Yep, they sure are...welcome to Tuolumne Meadows!



Edit: Sorry for the thumbnail pics...I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong. Click on 'em to view 'em until I fix it. Ahhh, that's better now.

  Trip Report Views: 743
bluering
About the Author
bluering is a trad climber from Santa Clara, Ca..

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Blinny

Trad climber
I'mNotBlanchard!
  Jun 25, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
That's not weak! It's VERY COOL! TheRealBlinny and I have done that route and it's VERY FUN! Thanks for bringing back the memories!

Keep ALL that magic alive!

eKatTheFakeBlinny
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jun 25, 2007 - 04:59pm PT
Nice photos.

Not sure if you meant you hid in a crack to pee, or peed in a crack, but it's best to pee out on a face so it evaporates, not in a crack where it takes longer to evaporate.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jun 25, 2007 - 06:04pm PT
Oh no, a 5.6 route, groan :) At the moment I would love to be climbing basically anything ...
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
  Jun 25, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
Very sweet pics of the sweetest place on the planet.

Except for the well-timed shot your buddy took of crime in process.

Dude! Don't piss there!!

Easy or not, I love the Books. Lembert's NW side is golden.

Like a shower.
pimp daddy wayne

Gym climber
Manchester, VT
  Jun 25, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
sick... i'd much rather see a cool trip report that talk politics. killer....
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
  Jun 25, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
Met you guys on the slabs while I was lounging at Lembert in the evening on Friday. Cool beans for your bud and his first multi pitch!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
  Jun 25, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
Did I see that summit photo of the German correct?

Looks like he is tied into his belay loop... Not so good.







Looks like everybody had a good time.
Zander

climber
  Jun 25, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
Thanks for the TR. I love that route. Climbed it a bunch of times.
Zander
10b4me

climber
  Jun 26, 2007 - 01:09am PT
thanks, that route is on a great formation with great views.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Jun 26, 2007 - 03:50am PT
Vie es de jer man tied to der belay loop? Voops! Just vundering.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
  Jun 26, 2007 - 10:16am PT
I have a couple of (not so great) photos of my ex when we did the route in August 1993. She hadn't climbed much before (one VS in the Lake District, her first climb and she came through with flying colors, and some up in Llanberis Pass and Snowdonia in north Wales when we lived there).

The best shot is of her with arms raised (celebrating) with Cathedral Peak and the Meadows behind and below her. Sort of like that shot of Peter above. I love the view of the Meadows from the top of Lembert. Sigh, it's been so long and too long - August 1993.

I'll post the pix. The NW Books is an ideal climb for people who haven't climbed much. I did the 5.9 variation with no pro so Marie could do the regular way without having to clean any gear. It's such a fun climb.

A great climb and cool TR Bluering.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jun 26, 2007 - 10:32am PT
I need to be savoring the flavor of those T Meadows right now, so thanks!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2007 - 12:19pm PT
Yeah, I didn't notice the belay-loop tie in until the 2nd belay station but I figured since he wasn't leading and would only be putting body weight on it I didn't say anything. When I see him for local climbs this weekend I'll point that out to him. He does climb in gyms though, don't they insist on through both harness strap tie-ins?

Edit: James, was that you with the big dog and the hot-looking wife? I remember you guys.
Prod

Trad climber
  Jun 26, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
5.6, 5.11, 5.12dX... whatever? Great TR

Prod.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jun 26, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
Hey Bluering,

Who cares what the rating when you have photos from such a beautiful place? Really nice TR...except for one small detail...















Jeeeeez Man! Did you have to piss all over the thing by putting in that shot of you urinating??????? :-)
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
So how many have climbed the 5.9 variation and what was it like? It seems like a lot of the mellow routes such as this one might be spiced up a bit by harder variations.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
I haven't done the 5.9 variation yet but it seemed pretty straight forward jamming, and it's not that long, maybe 20 feet of crack.

...from what I remember.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
Crack in a corner, fingers and hands, footholds to stem onto.
Worthwhile.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
at least he didn't poop in the crack, nice Tr blueballs
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
Thanks for a cool TR dude.

This is a fun route, for sure.
dirtbag

climber
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
Very enjoyable TR Bluering.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
The 5.9 var. is fun and mellow though short, but maybe smells like urine now?
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
Seems like I read somewhere (YOSAR site?) about an accident on the 5.9 part.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
The TR is from last year, just so y'all know. And by now the urine should be washed from the base of the 5.9 variation. I tried to pee somewhere I knew no hands would venture.

I really had to go.
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:44pm PT
One accident is described here, though it's hard to comprehend where the leader was climbing:

http://www.friendsofyosar.org/rescues/missions/7-05-05.html

Another accident on the easy 3rd pitch is described here:

http://climblog.blogspot.com/2004_07_01_archive.html
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
from the YOSAR link..."Together they splinted the obviously broken ankle with the Supertopo guide and tape. "

Nice!

It sounds like if he was really on the mid point of pitch 2, he would above the 5.9 section and sitting at the little tree before the 'awkward' offwidth section. The crack he must have been referring to was the 5.5 awkward OW and he was probably off route by going straight up from the intermidiate belay.

The other guy who fell on pitch 3, that was just kinda unfortunate, the 3rd pitch is pretty easy and straightforward after the awkward OW.

F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
  Jun 26, 2008 - 06:57pm PT

I'll bet both of you had a great time, that's what it is all about.

Thanks for the TR, good times in the meadows
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 26, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
You did a climb and it moved you enough to talk about it. That's what climbing is all about. Grades and ratings are pretty much irrelevant unless they do something to add to the story.

Nice, thanks.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
  Jun 26, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
I took my ex-girlfriend up that in August 1993. I led the 5.9 variation with no pro so that she could do the regular route without having to clean any pro on the variation. She had only really climbed once before on a VS in the Lake District and some top ropes in northern Wales when we lived outside of Bangor.

I have a couple of pics, that aren't great, but I'll dig them up and post them. It's a fun route.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jun 27, 2008 - 01:01am PT
Thanks for the TR and Images.

I wonder how some folks mental images of Bluering match up with the reality. He one of a kind, not a madeinamold kinda guy.

Peace

karl
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 16, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
Alright I'm bumping this, I'm trying to talk a new trad leader into taking his wife up this with me...

Badass!!!! (and easy too)



TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Jun 16, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
Nice bump!

Somehow I never saw this, looks fun!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 16, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
Sweet, missed this Bluey! Looks like good fun with beverages!

Remember Beer BAndolier!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Jun 16, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
das gud!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 16, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
Yeah, mucci, I was plowing a couple at the base, knowing we had to get her done, hence, the rest stop.

Peter was an awesome dude and partner. He's in Arizona now doing a Physics PhD. Crazy Germans!

I really need to locate my bandolier...
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jun 16, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
Good memories .. have to do it again this year !
couchmaster

climber
  Jun 17, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
People should be encouraged, or even forced, to post pictures of sweet sweet granite.

Thank you for the buzz!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
  Jun 17, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
One of my favorite chill climbs.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 23, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Looks like I may be taking more people up this on the upcoming weekend, anybody gonna be around that vicinity? Let's do a conga-line up it!

It's my textbook first multi-pitch or first trad lead....
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jun 24, 2009 - 12:31am PT
Hey, that was MY first multi-pitch!


ummm... oh what the hell, Wow, is that German guy CUTE! Arizona, you say?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jun 24, 2009 - 12:34am PT
Yur Goonnnaa Diee!!! Bump
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
  Jul 14, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
Northwest Books rocks.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 14, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
I liked it, and my daughter liked it.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
  Jul 14, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
Bluering you are right you are pretty weak. Not only because of the big dumb rack you took for NW books, but mainly because you pissed right where EVERYONE climbs.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Scooter, if you've ever done the route, and it sounds like you have, you'd know that I'm over to the left of the 5.9 variation and way left of the standard route.

I've never seen anybody use that crack I'm peeing into, why would you?
scooter

climber
fist clamp
  Jul 14, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
youre only an arms length away from the 5.9 variation. Which, by the way, I used to do nearly everyday (7 seasons) as my strechout/warm-up right after coffee. Every time it rains or sprinkles your pee-stink is going to be reacivated. Someone may even accidently spill a little water from the bottle, pee-stink reactivated. All that I am saying is, I know it was funny and novel for you, I just don't like the pee smell on ledges I like to hang out on.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jul 14, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
Somehow I suspect that the snowmelt of two winters has washed away any trace of Mr. Bluering's, ah, urgency .. :) Didn't smell a thing when we were up there on Sunday afternoon.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Jul 14, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
Scotter,

No one likes piss ledges but we've all had to go upon occasion and do our best to go in the best possible place given the situation. I'm quite familiar with Blueys faults but pissing on route is not one of them - I'm sure Bluey did the best he could.

Also did you notice the date this TR is from 2007???
I don't think I've heard anyone saying it's a piss ledge up there in the last two years...Moreover Lembert gets washed clean yearly - we aint talking about about camp 6 on the nose.

kev
scooter

climber
fist clamp
  Jul 14, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
camp 6 had to get that way somehow.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Jul 14, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
Um camp 6 doesn't get covered with snow or washed like lembert plus it's a wall - we are talking about the captain vs lembert WAY fricking different with respect to snow, rain, overhangingness etc...

Think about it dude, your comment is not logical and does not follow. So I don't buy what your selling and nor will most....
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  Jul 14, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
I can put an end to any pi$$ing match. I was up there later that summer and did the 5.9 variation, which is clearly being peed upon by the OP. It did not smell of urine.

I'm not suggesting everyone should run up there and hose that ledge down, I'm just saying Bluering's episode did not appear to cause permanent damage.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jul 14, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
Bluey, you can pee on any of my routes, but only if your drinking.

Having to break the seal mid pitch is bothersome, good thing you were close to the belay!
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jul 14, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
I loved this TR...even with the smell of urine attached. My only complaint was that he gave us a visual of the deadly deed. ;-)

But when you get to know Bluey, it just makes you laugh.



Thanks for bumping an awesome TR.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Lembert Dome - Northwest Books 5.6 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
A fine route to introduce yourself to Tuolumne climbing.
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Lembert Dome
Lembert Dome - Direct Northwest Face 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Direct Northwest Face, 5.10c
Lembert Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

THe splitter crack system up Lembert Dome creates the Direct Northwest Face.
Lembert Dome - Beginners Route 5.4 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Beginners Route, 5.4 R
Lembert Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

THe splitter crack system up Lembert Dome creates the Direct Northwest Face.
Lembert Dome - Cryin' Time Again 5.10a R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Cryin' Time Again, 5.10a R
Lembert Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cryin' Time Again is route A.
Lembert Dome, Right - Left Water Crack 5.7 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Left Water Crack, 5.7 R
Lembert Dome, Right
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Left Water Crack is route C
Lembert Dome - Cry Baby 5.8 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Cry Baby, 5.8 R
Lembert Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cryin' Time Again is route A.
More routes on Lembert Dome