North Buttress AK Grade 6, 5.8, A2, M5, AI 6

 
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Mount Hunter


Alaska, USA


Trip Report
North Buttress AK report from May 2014
Sunday February 1, 2015 12:43pm
  Trip Report Views: 3,806
SamVanBrempt
About the Author

Comments
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
  Feb 1, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
Congratulations on a great route. Really nice pictures and writing.
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Feb 1, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
Such a stunning beautiful face from Basecamp. Proud climb man! Sweet pics.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 2, 2015 - 02:56am PT
Really high quality Sam, alpinsist magazine quality.
I loved the comment about your ex- girlfriend 😄
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Feb 2, 2015 - 03:22am PT
sweet and Thanx for sharing , You Sure Rocked it! (snow & ice too)
christoph benells

Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
  Feb 2, 2015 - 08:44am PT
Hey! congrats on your success. too bad you didnt get up the cassin too, but joris would still be proud of your mt. hunter ascent!

We talked with you a bit at basecamp, we were the ones there snowboarding on the steep slopes outside of camp with zach clanton.

It was super cool to watch you guys through the telescope up there!

Well, everyone else could see you, I never could spot you with that damn thing...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 2, 2015 - 08:46am PT
Wow! Really great, well done gents!!

Jay Kerr would be proud.
feralfae

Boulder climber
Montana, on the Divide and around.
  Feb 2, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
Congratulations! Very well done, and what a super trip report. What a super all-around effort.

feralfae
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 2, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
Vwow. Stellar angles and color. Nice send fellas!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Feb 2, 2015 - 01:58pm PT
Wow! Thank you for a superb report on such a first-rate climb.

John
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Feb 2, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
Beautiful TR, great effort. TFPU
lars
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Feb 3, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
ya know,ya wake up in the tent after a climb like that and you tell yourself its just another day,,but you know,,its not and never will be,,cheers mate,,
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 3, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
Like waking up by Snow Creek after Mt Watkins Melski?
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Feb 3, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
THAT was really, really nice gents. Great job!
phil wortmann

Ice climber
colorado springs, colorado
  Apr 27, 2015 - 08:52am PT
Good job on the climb, and the writeup! The pics are amazing.

I was part of the team of 3 you mentioned, along with Doug Shepherd and Chris Sheridan. Due to time, we had to pass a party on the shaft by traversing to Deprivation and back just above the Vision. We then rapped the buttress just above the exit.

We did the route on a long weekend from Colorado, leaving Denver after work on Wednesday and flying into KIA Thursday at noon. We started climbing Thursday night around 930 pm, and returned to KIA around 10 pm Saturday night. We flew out of KIA Sunday morning and back to Co on Monday, back to work on Tuesday.

We were thankful for your bivy ledge above tamaras traverse, which we used for a quick brew stop. We took a short 2 or 3 hour nap before the last two pitches of the come again exit.

I really enjoyed your pics of the shaft and regret that we didn't have time to wait for a turn on it. Perhaps one day I'll have another go at her.

Good job on getting the summit, that's pretty rare and awesome!

Cheers!

Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
  Apr 28, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
Great write-up and photos! We skied in via the Kanakula Glacier back in 1985 to do this route, but temps at Kahiltna basecamp were 30-40 below when we arrived, so we opted for Denali's West Buttress. As it turned out, that was my last visit to the range, and I was always sad to have missed Mt. Hunter. I looked at it 3 times from the summit of Mt. Huntington, each time vowing to have a go the the NB, but it wasn't to be.

Anyway, great TR, guys!
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Mount Hunter - North Buttress AK Grade 6, 5.8, A2, M5, AI 6 - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
The North Buttress of Mt. Hunter from the north.
Photo: Joe Puryear
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Mount Hunter
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An overview of the mountain.