Trip Report
No Country For Old Men, A Question Of Desire, Red Rock, 2012
Friday May 25, 2012 1:30am
Credit: survival

The color glossy brochure from the Old Man Fantasy Climbing Club showed us floating effortlessly up endless stretches of stunning red, pink and brown sandstone. There we were, standing atop 1,000ft. towers of pure bliss.
It looked SO PERFECT!!

Only trouble was, the brochure didn't quite cover everything. The brochure didn't mention that the escalators were broken in all these f*%#ing baking hot canyons.
Nor did it cover the fact that when the guidebook says 1.25 hour approach, it's not really talking about a couple of 50 year old out-of-shape geezers who are thrashed from the long day before.
It didn't really go into the part about packs being fancier, but a hefty trad rack, two ropes and water weigh about the same as they ever did.
The brochure didn't exactly fill us in that not all braided trails are created equal, or that the boulder scree drop off brush gulley descent was going to tax what little power we had left.

The twisted brochure makers also slipped it past us that "moderate" isn't as moderate as it was once upon a time. They've gotten harder.

There wasn't even any fine print about how deeply our desire would be tested at O'Dark Thirty every morning, when the stink sack still beckoned strong and our hands, feet and backs were not really recovered.

One thing I learned for sure on my summer vacation: There's a big difference between oggling Mountain Project and actually climbing the Gawddamn things...

Maybe I should sue the brochure company for false advertising.


But Damn it's beautiful there.


Here's the good news. We got a proper intro through CoZmicCragsman! The capital Z is a gift from me, since he was hanging with the Cozmic Banditos. The man was a wealth of information, let us crash at his pad for a night, and went out with us for our first easy day. He also cooks a badass steak!

There was a meeting of CoZmic Forces...



CoZmic took us to Physical Graffiti and Bottoms Up, our shortest approach of the whole trip except a brief trip into the Black Corridor on our last day.
Only 5.6d and 5.7, but a great intro to get us started.










The Psychedelic rocks there are enough to blow a guys mind!!









































In 7 actual climbing days total, we did 4 longer routes, and thirty pitches altogether.

Birdland, 6 pitches, 650ft, 5.7+

Frogland, 6 pitches, 700ft, 5.8

Ginger Cracks, 7 pitches, 980ft, 5.9

Tunnel Vision, 6 pitches, 770ft, 5.7


As usual, I'll work on this in installments so I can get it posted and keep putting up lots of pictures.
Hope you enjoy it.




  Trip Report Views: 3,392
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

Comments
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survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 01:40am PT
CoZmic was telling us how to do stuff...










But he kept us on the right track!





Luckily, we also found the coolest campsite, thanks to Bill Russell.
Thanks Bill!!











The sunsets and sunrises were amazing up there.

philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  May 25, 2012 - 01:44am PT
TFPU Survival. Awesome pics. Can't wait for the story.
What was your favorite route?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 25, 2012 - 01:44am PT
Nice!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
  May 25, 2012 - 01:46am PT
Nice pics and I can relate to the old feck attitude. Keep it coming!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 02:06am PT
Ooops, I'll be trying to size the photos down a little from here on out. Sorry 'bout that.

Philo, my favorite was Ginger Cracks. The Brave Little Toaster's fave was Frogland I believe. But they were all great and that almost full pitch tunnel on Tunnel Vision was worth the whole trip up there!


Here's some pictures from Birdland, one CoZmic insisted we do.
Although my camera seemed to throw things around in sequence a little bit, so I'm having trouble being sure where everything is. First time it's done that. Hmmmmm......






























































Buggs and the self portrait!


























Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  May 25, 2012 - 02:08am PT
Awesome photos, and it's nice to see Cosmic up an about (being recent a shoulder surgery recovery person myself). I hate it how what used to seem normal or soft grading now seems a little sandbagged. Good on you for walking the walk.

Can hardly wait for the rest.

Darwin
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  May 25, 2012 - 02:09am PT
Big smiles on my part.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  May 25, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Awesome TR! Red Rock is so fun! Can't wait to go back. Thanks for keeping the psyche alive.

How did you guys like the finishing move on Birdland? :)
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  May 25, 2012 - 02:24am PT
What camera are you using to capture such vivid pics.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 02:58am PT
That little crack on pitch 5 just got smaller and smaller didn't it?

5.7d+ for sure......


Oh yeah, Jefe, thanks for all the encouraging texts! And Jeremy, thanks for the loaner of the WIDE gear too!








My bunged up ring finger was loving life as usual. Hey, at least I've still got the little bastard!







Looking down pitch 4 on BLT.















Buggs following the great thin crack on pitch 5.












Then, the pain of the "close" moderate, parties below, ARRRGHHH!!!
When we rapped off, there was a guy atop pitch 3 and his woman following. Luckily, with two ropes we were able to go right past from anchor 4 to 2. But when we pulled the cord, the gal on pitch 3 bitched us out!! This is after they decided it was a good idea to follow a party up, and we went to the extra effort to go past and to their side. Then she had the balls to drop a piece of gear on us!
Buggs gave her a piece of his mind......
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  May 25, 2012 - 09:37am PT
Spectacular shots! Envious of you guys.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 25, 2012 - 10:01am PT
hell yeah Bruce,
Bird land would have been an oven this time of year....:)

Thanks!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 10:23am PT
Birdland? Oven? Nah...... ;o)

That's why we got up and hustled our old butts, so we could be first at the gate and hump in there BEFORE it started getting too hot!
It worked sort of.....
Guess you had to be there hearing CoZmic: "You guys GOTTA do Birdland!

It did help convince us that we didn't want to keep doing south facing things. But we often got a little breeze up higher, which helped...dehydrate us!






Birdland pretty much goes up the middle of the main buttress. If you look close, you can see the party on pitch 4 waaaay the feck up there!





















Up Next, FROGLAND!
kovar

Trad climber
Reno
  May 25, 2012 - 10:22am PT
AWESOME!AWESOME!AWESOME!!!!!!!!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  May 25, 2012 - 11:06am PT
I guess the winds have died down, huh?.

I was there for a month and the last few days (beginning of May) were brutally windy! The two days out of that period that we tried to do shady long routes (POD and Crimson), we had to bail. And it wasn't just us. Everyone around us on the DOWT Wall was bailing because of the winds blowing all the ropes sideways and up. On the day we went to do CC, it was a Saturday and we were the only people on the route or anywhere around! Unheard of. Despite my polypro turtleneck and wind jacket, I was not warmly enough dressed and got hypothermic. And as you know the approach (similar approach as to Ginger Cracks) is hot even at 7 AM. First time I've ever been overheated and hypothermic in the same day!

But I love it there. Will always keep going back.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  May 25, 2012 - 11:09am PT
Nice TR!
this just in

climber
north fork
  May 25, 2012 - 11:42am PT
Cozmik, Survival of the Fittest, climbing, and some badass photos. Shitn A! Never figured out why they call them Red Rocks.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  May 25, 2012 - 11:44am PT
Woooohoooo! Always great to look at your TR's!

DOOOOOED!
Bowser

Social climber
Durango CO
  May 25, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Now Dammit Survival, How do you expect me to get any work done today with you posting up pics like that?

Freekin' amazing guys!

TB
couchmaster

climber
  May 25, 2012 - 11:54am PT
KEEP STOKE ALIVE BRUCE! WOOT!

The raps and the climbing are awesome, but some of those long long canyon descents are killer the old knees.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  May 25, 2012 - 11:57am PT
Nice climbin dooods--ya know its really ARIZONA down there!;-)
cheemy

climber
gross vegas
  May 25, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Cool TR. Good pics.. there's a couple of pictures that show the Big Horn crack behind the climber on the third pitch of Birdland. It splits the big right facing corner left of Birdland.. another fun Joe Herbst route..
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  May 25, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
WOOT!!

Cool Bruce ... looks like an awesome time was had by all!!

SWEEEEEET!!

Paul
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  May 25, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Great shots!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Frogland, Day 3.

Once again we managed to arrive first by a big margin. Even if we did go sleepily to the gate and sit there until six before we realized we were awake and in the wrong place by many miles!! Fukkn n00bs....











Frogland goes to the right of the obvious white/tan arete and the huge roof.








Ahh, the Black Velvet universe. Scene of one of my only previous visits to Red Rock and Dream Of Wild Turkeys, but that was a long time ago.








The boys are here for the GUN SHOW BABY!!! Yeah right...
















So beautiful there.








Let the shenanigans begin.
























































Cool Belay spot eh?








Lots of interesting plants to admire too!
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
  May 25, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
Killer pictures.

Killer Grateful Dead tie dyes as well.

So how much weed were you guys toking up on this awesome trip?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
Not allowed. My body is a temple, of past abuses.

More pix after chores.

brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
  May 25, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
^^^LOL! Good answer.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
Trying to finish up Frogland.























Beautiful on top, but a bruising descent to look forward to, OUCH!









Can you imagine being imprisoned in that giant ass chimney over there?

























More cool side show to enjoy!

Next up: The Bitter Taste Of FAILSAUCE!!!
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
  May 25, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
I have been imprisoned all night in that giant chimney in the pic. That's where you go when you make a wrong turn in the dark from the top of Black Velvet Peak and start foolishly rapping. There's pools of water and massive chockstones in there.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
YIKES TORNADO! I was feeling your pain from way over on top of Frogland!

Day Four In A Row, The Bitter Taste Of Fail Sauce!!

After having parties coming up behind us on Birdland and Frogland, I was pretty determined to have something to ourselves.

That morning Buggs called for a rest day, I insisted on Black Dagger.

Away we raced to the gate again, to try and beat some heat.

Well......we kinda screwed the approach and got into the main boulder field instead of on the real trail. This caused more drama and took more time than we needed after three days of these hikes and descents.

Sooo.....by the time we got to the wall, that black rock was SIZZLING!
Plus.....I never found the alleged 5.4 start.

We did the first pitch, and I just could NOT muster the DESIRE to go out on that black rock and do the wild bit around that roof.
Nor.....did I want to face that gunsight descent in addition to what I knew we had to do to get back to the car already, as beat as I was from three previous days. I tucked my tail and rapped toward the forgiving shade.

Damn, it's a long way up there!

















































At least I got a good picture of Buggs...
























Buggs following the "5.4" pitch....








Gawd it was good to get back to camp that day!








I was pissed, but Buggs gave me some advice from Yabo.



Now I was out for a little redemption!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 25, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Awesome bruce, how was the start of black Dagger a good route????
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 1, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Thanks Ezra. It looked really great up higher, but at that moment I was too knackered to care!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 25, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
After what felt like a well deserved rest day, it was time for redemption!!

We headed for Crimson Chrysalis since it was a week day. But we went prepared for Ginger Cracks just in case.

Of course as we got onto the main ramp of the approach the Euro speed team came jogging up our a**. We talked with them, and they were willing to wait since we were ahead on the trail, but we were tired of sharing, so off to Ginger Cracks we went!!

This was the best climb for me personally. Longer, a little bit harder, and we didn't have to see anyone starting below us. Plus, we were a bit rested too, so that helped.









Some beautiful and challenging cracks up there!








Steeper too!
































Buggs said he was manly enough to wear pink for this one.




















The sky turned pink in his honor!!







Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 25, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
Bugs looks manly in pink, way more manly then you or me bruce...:)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 29, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
After Our big day on Ginger Cracks, we decided that a day hike/"rest day" was in order. At least all we had to carry was water and snacks, NO RACKS!!


We're going over there!




We saw so many awesome little bonsai trees that day.





Walk, walk and more walk....




Hey, we're actually getting there!








Hey succulent man, what the heck is this little guy?








So many awesome tiny wildflowers everywhere.








Old man of the mountain.








Great picnic spot.
















Here's an object looking for a place to go eh?





















ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  May 29, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Great trip report! Geez! you guys make me feel like a slug.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 29, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Dammit!

I WISH I would have been able to CLIMB with Survival and Buggs!!

Fukkin Shoulder.

Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman


Deese guys NEED, Da Brim!!!
Credit: Cosmiccragsman

Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman

Credit: Cosmiccragsman

I Think Survival and Buggs got tired of Tag along Cosmic after the first day.

:)

Thanks for the Fires, Buggs!

A few more pics to follow.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 29, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
CoZmic, you MORE than did your part! You fed us great food, let us crash on your couch and took us to a great place.

I too wish we could have climbed together. But at least we gave you some fresh photoshop ammo eh? You can use any of my pix you want for fun. It's the least I can do to repay you a little....






























I WISH I would have been able to CLIMB with Survival and Buggs!!

Fukkin Shoulder.

Yabo Says Relax!!
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  May 29, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
Then, the pain of the "close" moderate, parties below, ARRRGHHH!!!
When we rapped off, there was a guy atop pitch 3 and his woman following. Luckily, with two ropes we were able to go right past from anchor 4 to 2. But when we pulled the cord, the gal on pitch 3 bitched us out!! This is after they decided it was a good idea to follow a party up, and we went to the extra effort to go past and to their side. Then she had the balls to drop a piece of gear on us!
Buggs gave her a piece of his mind......

;)

Pain, huh? Well, you guys certainly did NOT seem happy to see us at the third belay, which is plenty big for two parties to share, BTW.

The "gal" was leading the 4th pitch, and waiting at the start of the traverse for you to pull your rope. The third party was below you somewhere. None of us heard you yell "rope" before pulling, or communicate in any other way, for that matter. This type behaviour tends to get the "gal" worked up, especially from those old enough to know better. Can't say I blame her.

I think if you decide to take this hobby up on a more permanent basis, you'll find you encounter other teams on the same route you find yourself on. Had you looked at the parking lot while you were belaying the 4th pitch, you might even have seen us racking up to join you. We saw you.

You can keep the red tricam.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  May 29, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
I think if you decide to take this hobby up on a more permanent basis

Now THAT is funny lol!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 29, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
I think if you decide to take this hobby up on a more permanent basis, you'll find you encounter other teams on the same route you find yourself on.

What, 36 years isn't a permanent enough basis? Obviously we humped in early enough to be there first. In my day, we didn't follow parties on things we had been beat to, we chose something else to climb, which is the FAR wiser choice if you think about it. If you take this hobby up on a more permanent basis, you'll learn that, trust me.

Just from the minor shenanigans that occurred, you can see that I'm correct. I've seen too much falling sh*t in 36 years, period.
If the gal doesn't want ropes going by she shouldn't be following someone else up a route. There's plenty to do there eh?

which is plenty big for two parties to share, BTW.
It's not big enough in my book.

The no-notice rope coming down and the tri-cam are perfect examples of what I'm talking about. But if you like that kind of thing, carry on. But if you want that POS gear back you're welcome to it, next time you follow us up a route.

We took extra gear to do Ginger Cracks just in case, when we headed to Crimson Chrysalis. The Euros who were BEHIND us on the trail were competent, but unprepared to pick another route, so we made that choice even though we were first. We actually had the manners to discuss it with them, imagine that.

Nothing against you personally ddriver, it's the whole idea of packing people onto routes I have a problem with.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 29, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Survival and Buggs have been climbing since LONG before there were
multiple teams on the same routes.

Usually, if I go out to an area, I have a backup climb picked out,
so I can do that one, if the primary climb is occupied.



Edit: Dam survival, you beat me to the punch.!

:)
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  May 29, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
I don't think you can expect to do a HUGELY popular route like Birdland and expect, if you're first in line, to have the whole route to yourself all day long.

No matter how long you've been doin' it.

Great shots!

Get 'em, RP! Ha ha.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 29, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
  May 29, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
Survival,

Absolutely beautiful, funny, and inspiring. You give me hope man !!!


Cracko
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 29, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
Hope? Hope for what, being old and getting your ass kicked all the time?!

Here's a funny story, at least it was to us. In my effort to keep my bags small and light as possible for the plane, I packed a super-light 40 degree bag, because it was soooo small.

The problem is that up at the pass on a sorry foam pad, that sh*t got cold!

Well, Buggs had bought 3 Navajo blankets when he was crossing the rez, and after the first night I mooched onto those bad dogs. I folded two underneath me and used the third as my bag liner. It worked pretty well!

So Buggs and I started calling each other Nava-Joe and Nava-Steve, until a couple more days went by and we decided that neither one of us was tough enough to be called Nava-Joe, so for the remainder of the trip we were both, forever more, Nava-Steve!
Maybe you had to be there, but if you could've heard a few of our conversations, you'd have understood!!
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
  May 29, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Survival,

I have no problem getting my ass kicked all the time. I just want to do it with people who know the fine art of juvenilism, sophomorism, and self-deprecation. Again....my hat's off to you !!!


Nava-Cracko
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 29, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
"CoZmic was telling us how to do stuff...
But he kept us on the right track.'


photo not found
Missing photo ID#244083
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 30, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
Nava-Cracko, WELCOME TO THE TRIBE!! We are a small but weak tribe, short, but not too big around.....

CoZmic, thanks for posting up the pix! And thanks even more for the steak and a dip in your pool!!

Check out the tunnel on Tunnel Vision! That thing was sooo fecking cool, except for the creepy blood in the bottom below the big runout....























Lower down on the route.








eKat

Trad climber
  May 30, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
GreatGooglyMoogly!

What planet have I been on? Good thing I saw it on FaceBook, eh?

THIS IS A BITCHEN TR!

TFPU!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  May 30, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
Awsome. been way too long since I have been out there!

hanks to your thread title and inspiration I named my new climb I put up Monday Good Country For Old Men 5.8

I turn 50 on friday. Doing the GU rope solo thing with too big a rack, the rope in a pack on my back and the Bosch hanging off my butt made me aware of many worn out body parts...........
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 31, 2012 - 01:34am PT
Thanks eKatStokeMama! Honestly, I wondered if you'd seen it.

Tradman, that's really cool that you were inspired to name a route Good Country For Old Men!

I turn 50 on friday. Doing the GU rope solo thing with too big a rack, the rope in a pack on my back and the Bosch hanging off my butt made me aware of many worn out body parts...........


Yeah, I guess that's kind of the point I was trying to make, and I didn't have a drill hanging off of me.
Actually, I've been pretty lucky in the body parts department, but my greater part was wondering whether the DESIRE was worn out and battling against that every morning, feeling thrashed from previous days. And that moment in the searing heat on Black Dagger was where my desire abandoned me.


Fortunately, it wasn't too hard to rekindle after a rest day. Thanks Buggs.


Credit: survival





Credit: survival






Credit: survival
~kief~

Trad climber
state of Awakening
  May 31, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Lovin those piks>keep 'em comin'
Credit: ~kief~
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  May 31, 2012 - 03:02am PT
NEED MORE!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 31, 2012 - 11:09am PT
Awesome times bruce, keep 'Em comming!!!!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 31, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
I commend you for pursuing your hobby with such gusto, and at such an advanced age no less.

What other hobbies do you like?
You'd probably be a great scrapbooker!

Glad you guys had a blast. Love the photos.
Peace bruce and buggz!
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
  May 31, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
Great TR. You sure picked a great set of routes. Your pictures sure do pop. Were you using some specific settings or effects afterward? btw: I found the overhang pitch on Black Dagger to be fine but the following pitch was pretty challenging for the grade. Being a local, I am like you in RR, if you aren't first, find another route.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 31, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
Yes Jefe, I love scrapbooking and I get a big discount on scrapbook materials with my AARP card!

Dogfather, thanks. Not being local, it actually wasn't hard to screw up the approach to Brownstone. Sooo, some extra time and thrashing on top of the previous 3 days, owww. It wasn't so much the roof itself, but my overall condition that day that made the little voice in my head say "Go Home"! Damn that black rock was smokin'....

And thanks for your comments about being first also. When I was being raised in the game that was actually the prevailing ethic. It was considered a good form thing and a safety thing. I think the gym mentality and the "popular" route syndrome has pushed my ideas aside, which means I should probably just stick to the more obscure routes we usually do, HA!

As far as the pix, I forgot Philo actually asked about it too. I don't have a special camera, but someone from here in Taco-Land suggested that I download Irfanview for free. It has some great tools that allow me to play with Gamma, Contrast, Saturation and also sharpen the pictures. So as Jefe once said, I'm no Angel Addams or whatever the funny name he used was.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 31, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
Bruce on of my local friends who's 56 and still WAY strong cratered on Tunnel vision a couple of years ago. Ended up with a TIB /fib and patellar fracture. lost alot of blood. He made a full recovery and still climbs strong. I wonder if it was Jerry's blood? Who knows!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  May 31, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
Way to get after it dudes! Great pic's too! Love the rock and colors out there.

This whole thing about people lining up for routes is a strange concept. If you really want to get on something, do the alpine start and get there first. If someone gets there before you, wait for them to get off or find something else.

It ain't Everest.

Great of you guys to work things out with Euro's. That showed some class. We used to do that a lot (except the one time we pipped the Germans on Charlotte Dome by not telling them they were starting in the wrong place. Still feel bad about that ;-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  May 31, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Ezra, CoZmic told me that a girl had cratered in there a few days before we were on it. It's not hard, but I can sure see how some folks could get a bit intimidated or even do it wrong. It was totally spectacular though, for me at least.

The important thing about Tunnel Vision and Ginger Cracks is that we didn't have to share....MINE!

Another thing I was surprised about was how much obvious rapping had been done from all the lower stations on Ginger Cracks. It didn't seem that the last few pitches get NEAR as much traffic. Maybe that's just my perception.

And the raps out of the bowl behind Ginger Cracks was sketchy too. EVERYTHING funnels down onto Power Failure, and there's a LOT of debris in there. High potential for someone getting creamed on the upper part of Power Failure. Near the bottom of the route, falling rocks would go off to the climbers left. But the closer to the bowl they got, the more in line they would be for stuff falling out of the bowl.


except the one time we pipped the Germans on Charlotte Dome by not telling them they were starting in the wrong place. Still feel bad about that ;-)

BWA HA HA hahahaaaa!!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  May 31, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
hey there say, survival...

just stopping by to say thanks for the neat trip report...

saw a peek at it, at the ol' facebook, too, :))


thanks again...
can't see all the pics, so can't say much, as usual...
:)
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 31, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
Hey Survival and Buggs;
I can't remember, Did you say I could, or couldn't
POST those pics of you both with the,






























































































SHOWGIRLS????






photo not found
Missing photo ID#250251




















Zander

climber
  May 31, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
Sweet!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jun 1, 2012 - 12:06am PT
Survival! Great photos and posts.

Hope to see you at City of Rocks in June or for the July 3rd "Crimper-girl & Pente Fest"

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1836488&msg=1840040#msg1840040
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 1, 2012 - 12:09am PT
That's some goooood shit right there. Thank you, Bruce.
Or rather....TPFU! Fabulous photos, too.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jun 1, 2012 - 01:24am PT
Ah, so that's why it is called the Red Rocks! Most entertaining, as always.
I'll bet that next time y'all gonna go in March or April, n'est-ce pas?
BTW, Lost Crutches was luverly. I thought of you as I gazed at the Organs.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 1, 2012 - 02:04am PT
DAMN YOU CoZmic!! Busted with the showgirls? Sh#t, now we will get killed by our wives!

Reilly, tell me more about your time in the Organs. Pictures?


Hey, has anyone else found this to be one of the weirdest hardest 5.6 pitches on the planet, or was it just me?







Something from Black Corridor.








Inspiring scenery!








Awesome micro plants.








msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 1, 2012 - 02:17am PT
Great report, great place, great climbs. Ginger is the best!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Jun 1, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
"DAMN YOU CoZmic!! Busted with the showgirls? "








OOPS!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 29, 2012 - 10:35am PT
Showgirl bump! Now that the photos came back..arrrrggghhh!
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Jun 29, 2012 - 11:53am PT
Sir-Vive-Al, I have been given an offer I can't refuse. Going to Vegas this Fall to repeat (or try to) The Res. Lookin' fer Sherpas to haul the sleds. YOU IN?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 29, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
When in the fall? Do I get to lead easy pitches and bring my jugs or am I just a load humper?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Sep 14, 2012 - 09:56am PT
I miss The Brave Little Toaster....
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Dec 12, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Man, what a trip! Thank you for sharing those stunning pictures with us.

Excellent TR!
cowpoke

climber
  Dec 12, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Nice Red Rock bump. I'm psyched to be going in april, but this tr makes me want to pack the bags, right now.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Dec 12, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
Great photos.....RR is one photogenic place especially with Cosmic in the foreground.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 12, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
Nice!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 15, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
Bump for Matt, just checkin'.........
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jul 15, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
Missed this 1st time around,
bitchin TR Bruce!
Thanks for the bump,
Tad
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