Trip Report
New Routes in the Southern Sierra, Old School Style!
Monday June 30, 2014 10:41pm
Edit: I just posted this and it looks way too long, sorry, I like pictures!!!

I rarely get to climb twice in the same week, much less luck out with two fun potentially new routes with great partners!

If you're someone that thinks the best FA's are the ones nobody shares then please close your eyes.

If you're someone that thinks all the FA's have been taken then please open your mind, there are brazillions more waiting! Even in cramped up old CA, but you'll have to work for it!

When I get days to climb I like to make them count. In other words start and end the dark and suffer in the middle. This makes finding willing and able partners a challenge but the stars aligned this time.

Climb number A:
Formation: Silliman Point (formerly point 10,247) in Sequoia National Park
Route: West Recess, 7 pitches of 5.7 fun!
Approach: Burly but pretty. Park, walk uphill a lot, climb
Partner: Rob Brown AKA Rincon. One of only a few people I've climbed with who shares my love for SEKI.

This was yet another formation out of Tokopah Valley in Sequoia with an unknown history. It's unique in that it's not really visible from many places except for a certain spot on the road so it doesn't get much attention.

Thar' she is
Thar' she is
Credit: limpingcrab
Silliman point from a ways away, this was our beta for the day.

I met Rob (rincon) in the parking lot the night before and he didn't murder me so our partnership started out well. (Edit, we met at Balchfest too)

As a way to recover from back surgery and prepare for the high sierra trail next week my dad came along to dayhike Mt. Silliman (kinda risky during recovery, right?)

In the afternoon light on our way home
In the afternoon light on our way home
Credit: limpingcrab
We plodded along towards Silliman and before too long we were dinner for mosquitos in Silliman Meadow. Rob and I parted ways with my dad and were soon (felt like FOREVER) at the base. It was looking good and we were excited!

Credit: limpingcrab
What the roof!? We were too tired to battle that thing and we wanted the summit so we took the obvious system over on the right.

Top of P1
Top of P1
Credit: limpingcrab

Rob leading P2
Rob leading P2
Credit: limpingcrab
Looking down P3
Looking down P3
Credit: limpingcrab
Fun, well protected 5.7 climbing was to be had by all! Neither one of us enjoy squeeze chimneys so I "accidentally" let Rob lead that part of P2, but besides that it was great and not as bushy as these pics make it seem.

P4
P4
Credit: limpingcrab
P4
P4
Credit: limpingcrab
P4
P4
Credit: Rincon
Rob snagged the fun lead prize on pitch four. It took knobs and chicken heads up the right side of the roof until we were on the summit ridge.

Pitch 5 corner
Pitch 5 corner
Credit: Rincon
Credit: limpingcrab
Pitch five started with a perfect but short corner before the last two easier pitches along the crest to the summit.

Credit: limpingcrab
Studs

Watchtower
Watchtower
Credit: limpingcrab
It's always weird to look down on the watchtower.

Mount Silliman
Mount Silliman
Credit: limpingcrab
Hey dad, you up there!? It was 3:00pm and it turns out he already bagged the peak and was down at the car. Impressive for a 63 year old crippled guy! That's probably where I got all my studlyness from. Who knows, maybe my mom carries the studlyness gene too?

The route.  A separate closer formation is outlined in blue.
The route. A separate closer formation is outlined in blue.
Credit: limpingcrab
We were back at the car around 6-ish and it was all smiles. Showing up at the base, making it to the top and down before dark with lots of fun climbing in between is the best kind of day!

INTERMISSION:
Kings Canyon from Lookout Peak
Kings Canyon from Lookout Peak
Credit: limpingcrab
Looking for sharks in Hume Lake
Looking for sharks in Hume Lake
Credit: limpingcrab
My little family and I spent a couple days in the mountains getting some quality time in (also secretly scoping out rocks).


Climb number B:
Formation: The Sphinx in Kings Canyon National Park
Route: Cotton Mouth Khafra, 10 pitches at 5.11- and not many mellow spots
Approach: Uber burly! Almost 4,000 ft of uphill
Partner: Vitaliy Musiyenko AKA Vitaliy M AKA Viagra AKA Vittles
PS, I ripped a lot of these pictures from Vitaliy, check them and more out at his bloggoliscous blog: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/

By Friday I was ready for more and Vitaliy was on his way from the bay so we could get up dark and early. I set a personal record and made it to road's end in Kings Canyon in 1 hour and 45 minutes and pitched camp in my car next to his nissan.

We hit the trail by 4:45 am and had our sights set on the east face of The Sphinx, confident that we'd have no trouble making it as a day trip. I blocked out Rob's warning a few days earlier that The Sphinx was not in a great spot for a car to car ascent. Why not, it looks so close? (Rob, I will heed your advice in the future)

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
In under and hour we had our first view of the beautiful chunk of rock. It's so close! Nope.

Credit: limpingcrab
Good morning Kings Canyon!

Credit: limpingcrab
Good morning Charlotte Dome and Bubb's Creek Wall!

Vitaliy pic
Vitaliy pic
Credit: Vitaliy M
Credit: limpingcrab
Good morning guy who walks on water at Sphinx Creek!

Vitaliy Pic
Vitaliy Pic
Credit: Vitaliy M
About five hours and lots of uphill later we were scoping out possible lines from the nearby dome. All of those cracks and corners we thought were there turned out to be closed, vegetated or nonexistent. We took our time with the monocular but nothing was obvious without needing more time or aid gear.

Sphinx
Sphinx
Credit: limpingcrab
We settled on a line that started down out of sight in the gully and eventually climbed on or near the skyline to the true summit on the upper left. It took four pitches to get to the horizontal line down there by the shadow! One liter of water a piece should be enough right? This shouldn't take long, right?

Credit: limpingcrab
Down we go! This turned out to be a little tricky tricky tricky (sorry, there's an echo down there). It would have been pretty trivial if we had stayed in the bottom instead of heading left too soon.

Start
Start
Credit: limpingcrab
P1
P1
Credit: limpingcrab
This trip was Vitaliy's idea so he took the honor of the first pitch, and it was a great one! Cracks and sketchy, but just enough, pro and nice rock.

P2
P2
Credit: Vitaliy M
P2
P2
Credit: limpingcrab
I took pitch two and we were both surprised at how good these "approach" pitches were and that they were already coming it at solid 5.10. And then........

Poop
Poop
Credit: limpingcrab
A decent runout below me, my last piece was a piton and there was 20+ more feet of slab ahead. And no pro. I couldn't find any EB's, I'm not 100% sure what a swami belt is but we were old skool enough to bring a hand drill! Whoever thought drilling 3/8 bolts in bullet hard granite by hand with a hardware store hammer was a good idea was an idiot (us).

Once I was done my feet and shoulders were so burned from the stance and the hammering that I placed a pretend cam and a piton behind a flake to bring Vitaliy up so I could get a break. Actually, those are my excuses but I was just looking at the slab above and being a weenie :)

Vitaliy pic
Vitaliy pic
Credit: Vitaliy M
Vitaliy took the next pitch through the slab and as a trade he had the option of passing one of his future leads to me. He took this pic just after his first good pro. It was a good feeling for both of us since the belay was un-bomber.

Top of P4
Top of P4
Credit: limpingcrab
P4 ledge
P4 ledge
Credit: Vitaliy M
I took the easier pitch four up to a nice comfy ledge with a beautiful view! We weren't sure where to go and it was our first nice belay spot so Vitaliy took the chance and passed pitch five off to me.

P5
P5
Credit: Vitaliy M
I followed a ramp to the right because straight up had blank spots and hand drilling again was to be avoided at all costs. This was turning into a mountaineering expedition and we wanted the summit! I'm pretty sure this is when I ran out of water too.

Before too long I brought Vitaliy up and he traversed a bit more before heading up. By this time were were on the west side of the ridge and successfully keeping the sun bearing down our necks. The pitch was taking a while and I was trying to get comfy when I heard some mumbles.

"what?"

"TAKE!!!"

He sounded serious, looks like there was more real climbing up there after all! A few more minutes, a tug every now and then and I was taking in the view when I heard the freakiest yell (scream) I've ever heard. It sounded like "AHAHAAAAAAAAAAEEEEAGGGAAAAAAAEEEEEEEE" and I took in two full arm length before the rope went tight! My first thought was what to write on Vitaliy's RIP thread when I heard, "I didn't think that piece was gonna hold, oh my God!"

It turns out Vitaliy was running it out a bit at the end of his pitch and had two insecure cams beneath him when his foot popped out of a dusty down-sloped crack and he went for a ride. He screamed because it was a total surprise and he thought he was gonna pull his pieces and go for the long one, and thanks to the little purple C4 he didn't!

Crux, P6
Crux, P6
Credit: limpingcrab
This is where Vitaliy had to take because he was placing gear blind and got pumped, the same thing happened to me trying to clean the pitch.

"The next pitch looks scary and then we should be good." Thanks, Vitaliy, that's what I wanted to hear. I climbed up about 15 feet before I down climbed back to the belay, rather then risking a 30 foot ledge fall out in the boons I traversed right and took a series of crack and ledges up and left towards the ridge. It has some fun moves and a cool crystal pocket.

Pitch something
Pitch something
Credit: limpingcrab
Vitaliy took the next pitch and with the sun going down and thirstiness going up we put away the cameras and gunned for the summit. Every pitch up to number nine had moves at least 5.8 or harder.

Pitch 10
Pitch 10
Credit: limpingcrab
When the rope went tight on pitch 10 Vitaliy called down to simulclimb and we flew up the last 400 feet to the summit to beat the sunset.

Thirsty
Thirsty
Credit: limpingcrab
Summit
Summit
Credit: limpingcrab
Tummies growling, mouths parched and feet exploding we pulled onto the summit with just enough time to watch the alpenglow fade. We were miserable.

Summit!
Summit!
Credit: limpingcrab
Just kidding, we were STOKED! We had doubts, confidence, highs and lows but we made it!

Water!
Water!
Credit: limpingcrab
We stumbled back to our pack and headed straight down to the nearest water. At the first trickle we heard we pounded all we could hold. Water has never tasted so good or made me feel so nauseous from drinking it too fast.

Dinner!
Dinner!
Credit: limpingcrab
Our thirst was quenched but Vitaliy was still famished so he ate a rubber boa on the way down. Raw, Bear Grylls style. Bear Grylls calls it Vitaliy style.

19 hours from when we left were were back at the car. 10 hours of hiking, 9 hours of climbing covering almost 2000 feet of technical terrain, drilling, falling, and thirsting. It was a butt kicker but it was also exactly what he had hoped for. Another awesome day ending with success!


ouch
ouch
Credit: limpingcrab
I was home by 2:00am and the next morning found out that my little dude took his first whipper, right off the bed! Thanks to this guy and his wonderful mom for giving me a few days to explore.



The end, thanks for hanging in there. And yes, I wore the Balchfest shirt in honor of Micronut.

  Trip Report Views: 3,377
limpingcrab
About the Author
limpingcrab is me, nice to meet you.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:01pm PT
I am honored beyond measure to have the first comment on this Trip Report. The fact that I was mentioned in the post-script and that you were wearing my Balch Fest t-shirt is more than I can ask for.

You fellas have done the Canyon of the Kings proud.

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
I'm actually so stoked for this TR that I'm gonna go ahead and take the second comment slot too. I love the line....

"With the sun going down and the thirsties going up........"

This TR had it all!

Savage approaches.
Hand drilling.
Ledge fall potential.
Dehydration on the summy.
Eating snakes.
A baby's first face-plant.


What more could we ask for. A new Supertopo standard.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
Kick ass!!!!!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
Before micronut takes the 3rd slot, I want to reserve it to say it was awesome to climb with you again Daniel! After the Fortress in 2011 we had some awesome outings together. Thanks for being a great partner!

Edit: damnit DMT beat me to 3rd slot!!!! this forum sucks!!!
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
Nice effort!!! Great trip report!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 12:18am PT
word!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Jul 1, 2014 - 01:36am PT
Awesome Daniel! Climbing with Rob and Vit within a week would be a major stoke for all of us. Glad to see it going down! Looking forward to seeing u all again sometime!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Jul 1, 2014 - 02:24am PT
Righteous trip reporting
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 1, 2014 - 03:59am PT
Congrats on the family and the FAs, thanks!
Bad Climber

climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 05:48am PT
Burl, boys, burl.

BAd
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 06:27am PT
Great TR, a great time!! But don't eat the rubber boa's 'cause they are cute.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 1, 2014 - 06:35am PT
Nice.....getting it done! Hell, anyone can climb if they're hydrated.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
  Jul 1, 2014 - 06:40am PT
Thanks for the great morning read!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jul 1, 2014 - 06:56am PT


sick SEKI sweetness!!
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 1, 2014 - 07:15am PT
Wow, way to get way out there. Those long days make you appreciate what you are capable of. I'm sure the last couple miles killed. Thanks.
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
  Jul 1, 2014 - 07:34am PT
Like Micro said, This TR had it all! Can't wait for the next episode!

Way to tough it out on The Sphinx. That was a bold line to take on and you guys pulled it off.

By the way, That wasn't the first time we met. The first time was at Balch Fest when I picked you guys up and gave you a ride back to your cars after taking the "short" way down.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jul 1, 2014 - 07:53am PT
You guys are badass!
Congrats on the new routes.
TFPU
Tad
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jul 1, 2014 - 07:57am PT
Fantastic as always. Looks like you guys had a grand adventure that was super rewarding! Can't ask for much more, thanks for taking us along!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:10am PT
Just kidding, we were STOKED! We had doubts, confidence, highs and lows but we made it!


You made it and kicked ass.
Nice TR!


~peace
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:11am PT
NICE!

Did the rubber boa come out like it went in?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:35am PT
Nice job....you guys.



limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:43am PT
Thanks for all the nice words!

By the way, That wasn't the first time we met. The first time was at Balch Fest when I picked you guys up and gave you a ride back to your cars after taking the "short" way down.

Oh ya, oops! Thanks again for that ride.
BFK

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:01am PT
Bravo!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:45am PT
Nice TR...writing, pictures, approaches, hand drilling. You were hungry. TFPU.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 1, 2014 - 10:04am PT
Did the rubber boa come out like it went in?

Many more coils, can send you a photo!

Daniel was nice enough to share a granola bar with me, so I didnít eat the snake. It didnít smell good anyway.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jul 1, 2014 - 10:14am PT
Great job, you guys are nuts!

Awesome, funny TR limpingcrab super enjoyable.


The climbing looked pretty incredible too.


Thanks.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 11:38am PT
Excellent work and TR. I'd been eying that line on Silliman for several decades. Oh well, you snooze (longer than Rip Van Winkle, in my case), you lose. Thanks nonetheless for confirming that the area is worthwhile. Yours and Vitaly's description of the Sphninx almost makes me willing to brave the approach.

Again, thank you for a superb TR.

John
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Jul 1, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
Right On Daniel! Way to keep up the FA's. Great to see you climbing with Rob Brown too! A Great and Hard climber from the way backs. Good Job to All!!
Rudbud

Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
First off, your claim of old school style climbing without a picture of someone with a sweet mustache or wearing jeans is totally invalid Brah..

I don't make the rules, Sorry, check the fine print, try again boys.






Just messing around of course. Nice work out there, looks fun!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jul 1, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
That's the way to do it!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
  Jul 1, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
Awesome write up and pics
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 1, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
awesome!
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
  Jul 1, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
That was awesome Mr. Crab!
alina

Trad climber
CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
Thanks for sharing. What a beautiful place to explore.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jul 1, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
BOOM!

There it is!

Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
Congrats on the FAs - cool to hear they are still out there waiting...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 1, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
Who is waiting? There is nothing up there man, keep on walking! ;)
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jul 1, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
If you guys need some cash for pro we might be able to take up a collection.

Nice job and TFPU. Glad the cams held.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
Quality stone . . . nice efforts.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jul 3, 2014 - 10:17am PT
If you guys need some cash for pro we might be able to take up a collection.

Start a thread for us, please! We could use a soft catch every now and then too!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Jul 3, 2014 - 10:37am PT
3 Thumbs Up for adventure climbing and burly approaches. Nice job gents. That place is magic.
craig morris

Trad climber
la
  Jul 3, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
thanks for taking the time to share. I think most of Rincon's FAs in So. Cal. have not been recorded.
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 3, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
Wondering if you found any fixed pins on the route. We did that route in 1973. Didn't think about recording it anywhere since it was just another adventure and ticking first ascents wasn't a goal. I've seen several other "first ascents" in the Southern Sierra guide book the myself and others did but because we were not making claims to first ascents, now the current guards are willing to take credit. Glad you enjoyed the climb. It was great on the first ascent.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jul 3, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
Cool Skip! Part of why I post some routes on here is with the hopes of learning more about the history when it's a climb that I'm not sure about. I assume your talking about the first one in the report, near Mount Silliman? We looked closely and saw no sign of passage, but that obviously doesn't always mean anything on trad routes.

Hope you're not bitter about other people claiming your routes, it's kinda what happens when you keep them a secret. I like to hear what others have done so I share some of what I do.

Any other stories about Sequoia or Kings from back then? Please let us know or PM me if you're in the mood, I love learning about the history of SEKI and the southern sierra.

-Daniel
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Jul 4, 2014 - 09:32am PT
Fun, well protected 5.7 climbing was to be had by all!
Sounds perfect and looks gorgeous! SeKi's already pretty high on my to-do list, but I think this may have bumped it up even more.

Edit: I just posted this and it looks way too long

Not at all! :)

And that shot of Hume Lake hit me right in the nostalgias; I used to camp there with my folks and brothers every summer.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Jul 4, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Nicely done boys!


I wonder if Skip has photos?
localdan

Trad climber
Visalia, CA
  Jul 5, 2014 - 05:43am PT
Way to go you two! Way to represent Central Valley climbing :)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Jul 5, 2014 - 07:14am PT
Yeah guys!

Looks like the real deal

Thanks for the vicarious adventure and keeping the spirit alive!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
  Jul 5, 2014 - 07:28am PT
Excellent TR and some WAY fun times! Way to get after it, you guys!!!
Osprey

climber
  Jul 5, 2014 - 08:52am PT
This is the type of trip report dreams are made of. Way to bring it back home safely to the new family. I'll wait for more.
overwatch

climber
  Jul 5, 2014 - 11:00am PT
Thanks for the report.

Skip Gaynard?
sullly

Gym climber
  Jul 6, 2014 - 09:48am PT
Nice work.

I'm a descendant of Benjamin Silliman. He was one of Yale's first professors, discovering how to distill petroleum. His son, Ben Jr., also taught at Yale. Mt. Silliman was named after one of them by former students who were surveyors in 1864.

The last name dies out when my daughter does.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#366261
wiki page:http://www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benjamin_Silliman


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 6, 2014 - 03:06pm PT
Sully thanks for posting some history, I really like stuff like that. Always think about who named what and what's the background.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 6, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
Hoh man! What to say?
That's what it's all about!
An honor to have met, most, of the participants!
And Cheers to crab's dad!
mantis

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
  Jul 7, 2014 - 11:37am PT
Excellent report! Not long enough! Like your style! Reminds me of sometime way back in the 1970s when...........
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
Dudes pullin' down some serious shizzle.

Way to get out there and carry the torch of adventure, sharing the light with warriors past present and future.
skip gaynard

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 16, 2014 - 05:42pm PT
Daniel, No bitterness ever. Great trip report. I can't really say if we even did the first ascent but we didn't really care at the time and I don't to this day. It took me by surprise seeing your photos, and description, and that's why I added a comment. Kudos for making that approach. As I recall that was the crux. Thanks for posting. Brought back memories. As far as photos, I think we took some but I would have to dig through thousands of slides. Maybe in my 80's and not climbing anymore. Thanks, Daniel!!!
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
  Jul 16, 2014 - 07:19pm PT
Honest truth here, I soloed that Silliman Point thing about 3-4 years ago as I was working a bartender job at the nearby Lodge. Really fun day out. I just didn't think of it as an FA. Always believed somebody had to of climbed that rig; it being that quality. Thought about submitting a TR to the AAJ as I too believe its a great 5.7 climb, but I was solo, no pics. If only the corner and knob climbing was longer. I found the first pitch to be rotten chimney like stuff on flakes of crust and noise.

Nice TR. I always enjoy your efforts. This is my kinda backyard so I do play here frequently, just don't do the internet stuff too much.

Great work on the Sphinx.

See ya in the hills!

-Chad

(which climb is skip talking about?)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 17, 2014 - 08:34am PT
Cool stories about Silliman Point. Have you guys climbed any other lines on it or know any other lines? Always interesting to learn about other people's adventures and history of climbing on these formations that people do not visit often.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jul 17, 2014 - 09:59am PT
Good to know guys, I'm writing all this down and happy to learn a little more about the rock around here.

It's you sneaky seasonal employees that have made tracking down info so hard! :)

-Daniel
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Jul 17, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
The Sphinx? Car to car? Crazy ambitious, so all the more the props. I love it that people are getting out there and actually climbing that stuff that so many of us have just looked at for years. Thanks much for sharing.
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
  Jul 17, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
Outstanding TR and spirit of adventure! Keep it up! Sally
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Jul 17, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
Awesome trip report. Looks like good times.



-JR
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Jul 17, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
Rough times for the little one. He looks un-fazed.
I climbed that thing solo naked in '68, a full year before I was born. There was snow so I didn't need a rope. It's barely 4th class.
- Skunk Gaylord
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jul 29, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
Got a request for a topo of the Sphinx route so I sketched it up and figured I'd post it here too. The other route was easy to follow, and apparently a trade route :) Fun though!

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Oh ya, forgot to note that the gear was nuts, double cams up to 3" and a handful of runners.
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