Ancient Art 5.8 A0

  • Currently 5.0/5

Stolen Chimney

Desert Towers, Utah, USA

Trip Report
Look at Me, Dad! Err . . . Actually, Don't! - A Climb Up Ancient Art & Other Utah Rocks
Thursday March 15, 2012 3:56am
Ancient Art and King Fisher under the desert night sky.
Ancient Art and King Fisher under the desert night sky.
Credit: PellucidWombat

At heart I'd say I'm a desert kid. My fondest childhood memories came from the many trips my dad and I used to take from Salt Lake City to the trinity of Utah desert fun: Arches NP, Canyonlands NP, and the San Rafael Swell. I have hiked, scrambled, and canyoneered many miles in this wonderful landscape with my dad. I also did my first +18 hr day and +20 mile dayhike here. My realization that I could work through my fear of heights with a rope occurred while rappelling on a backpacking trip with my dad as we descended into one of the desert canyons.

I never had a chance to enjoy the desert as climber, though.

Summit spires of Ancient Art from the NE with climbers on pitch 3

Climbers on Ancient Art at the crux, seen from the parking lot (the SW).

Fast forward to 2011. I have been been climbing on and off for a number of years, and have been going for about a year on a lead climbing binge, climbing nearly every weekend. Unfortunately, while I've been getting out and enjoying nature more than ever, my father's Parkinsons disease has by this time progressed to the point that he can only manage shorter walks than in my teen years, and his tremors preclude the possibility of any scrambling. I nearly overdid it when I suggested we hike Mt. Elbert together, which led to some dangerous freeze-related falls when descending the trail as he fatigued from the hike.

Dad & Me at our Indian Creek campsite

In an attempt to find a way to continue sharing our enjoyment of nature with each other, while letting out some of my pent up energy, I suggested that my dad come along on some of my shorter rock climbs to lounge at the base of the cliffs where he could watch me climb. He's not a technical climber, so I figured I could share my new outdoor passion with him while finding a way for us to be outside together. We could walk to and from the climbs together, he could chat with me or my climbing partner while we were belaying on the ground, and he should be able to hear and watch us throughout the shorter climbs. What could possibly be a bad idea about that? :-)

Little Cottonwood Canyon Trad (June, 2011)
A Crack in the Woods (5.8) & Hand Jive (5.9)
I tried this idea out in Little Cottonwood Canyon in June with my friend Alec L. A combination of too much coffee before the lead, and a harder than expected 5.9 lead (it turned out to be my hardest to date at the time) left me feeling more nervous than I normally do on lead. That, or maybe knowing that since my dad was watching, I'd better not fall on lead!

Shameless LCC Climbing Plug Photo Series

Beginning Hand Jive (5.9) with an initial downclimb into a chimney and a step over to a thin lieback-mantel to reach a finger pocket & my first piece of pro. I didn't like the fall consequence here, so it was tough to commit to the balancey mantel! Fortunately the grassy seam had a good finger pocket and a thin crack that could take a cam after some fiddling.

Hand Jive (5.9), a steep, sustained, and beautiful finger & lieback crack.

Still, the day turned out fine and he enjoyed coming along. So when I thought of trying to do a climbing trip to southern Utah over Thanksgiving, I suggested he join me and Peter G. for the trip.

Alec leading the traversing portion of Mexican Crack (5.10a). Ya gotta find those sweet chickenheads for nice footwork!

Making short work on a 5.9+ to 5.10a-ish section of Bong Eater (5.10d LB&OW)

Indian Creek (November, 2011)
I've never climbed in Indian Creek, and I finally felt ready to tackle some of the 5.10 cracks in the area. While Pete & my main objective for the trip was to climb Ancient Art, we spent the first two days over Thanksgiving warming up to desert sandstone climbing at Indian Creek.

Why climb at Indian Creek first?

This is why.

Droool . . .

And a few of the climbs we did:

Pete following Binou (5.9 in guidebook. Really 5.8)

Generic Crack (5.9+)

P1 has 120' of sustained and steep jamming! Solid hands.

You can't hide from using proper jamming techniques at the Creek. I ran up Generic on lead in under 15 minutes. Peter took over an hour as he learned that while he could do well on mixed technique with finger jams, he really didn't get the whole hand jamming while foot jamming thing.

Pete at the top! He drew blood, but it was worth it!

Rack used for Generic Crack. So much gold!

Twin Cracks (5.7)
We climbed Twin Cracks, which had much easier hand jamming than Generic Crack. Here Pete got a better hang of the whole hand jamming thing. He should be better prepared for the next visit to the Creek!

Twin Cracks (5.9 in guidebook. Felt more like 5.7 to me.)

Taking the Wombat finish.

Pete all grins as he starts to get the feel for hand jams.

Interesting P2 of Twin Cracks. Left & Right sides both look nice!

I still can't tell which looks better :-)

Super Crack (of the Desert) (5.10)
There was a line on Super Crack, so we monkeyed around on an unnamed 5.6 offwidth and 5.9+ finger crack + lieback while we waited.

Leading Unnamed 5.9+. Nice liebacking.

Pete following Unnamed 5.9+

Climber almost done leading Supercrack (5.10). 100' of sweet and steep jamming! To get a sense of the steepness, look at how the second rappel line trails down.

At last I took off. As I'm still new to leading 5.10s, I don't know why I thought it was a good idea to climb this route in front of my dad. Since all of the other climbers were pumping out and having to hang or aid on the upper crack, I was surprised to find the climbing onto the lower pedestal to be the crux. It was a lot harder than any 5.10a's I've done, so perhaps it was my first 5.10b lead?

I'm at the 20-25' section below the roof - all #2 Camalots for here.

The upper crack is more like 5.9 if you have good crack technique, as you can keep the weight off your jams and onto your feet. The biggest pump I got was attempting to clip the rope with nearly 100' of it hanging free below me. I learned quickly to place a piece high, move a couple more jams to keep the hand flexing & relaxing, then clip the rope to the piece with the hand that was not placing the cam, now at waist level. This allowed me to avoid hanging out too long and divide the pro placement & upper jam hang work between the two arms.

View from the top after 80' of glorious sustained hand & fist jamming.

Cleaning on rappel.

Nicely buffed crack of Supercrack. 100' of sustained jamming - no rests unless you can rest in the jams!

The nicely buffed interior of Supercrack in the #3 BD Camalot zone.

Ancient Art (November, 2011)
The coolest summit I had ever stood atop up to this point was Starlight Pk (14,200').

Manly pose atop The Milk Bottle (Photo by Steph Abegg)

While the silly summit outfit may have been vital to my success on Starlight, and although I lacked the Gandelf costume or giant Dr. Seuss hat that I envisioned wearing atop Ancient Art, I felt ready to lead the even wilder corkscrew summit.

Fisher Towers. The Titan is on the right. It is the largest free standing spire in North America.

King Fisher and Ancient Art. The spire on the right is our objective.

King Fisher (behind) and Ancient Art (front)

Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art.
Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art.
Credit: PellucidWombat
Ancient Art. The Stolen Chimney route is easily seen in shadow & skyline profile.

We were surprised to see just how scenic the Fisher Towers area was. You had excellent views of climbers on the towers merely by looking out your car window at the trailhead. The trail leading out to the towers isn't that long, and every bit of it is so scenic that I never even noticed the hike. It was also very accessible for my dad to hike along at a slow pace and take in the sights with me and Peter.

Pitch 1
We were fortunate enough to arrive at Ancient Art before the crowds. There was one party ahead of us, but by the time we were ready to start climbing that party was already heading up pitch 2. My dad made himself comfy at the base to watch the show, and off I went on the lower low-5th sandstone ledges.

About to start aiding the bolt ladder of P1 of Lost Chimney on Ancient Art.

Apparently one of the bolts on the bolt ladder had ripped out sometime in recent years, but it had been replaced by now. I stemmed partway up the water grooves then quickly switched to aiding the bolts with a PAS & one alpine aider. I left another alpine aider with Peter so that he could aid the bolts as he followed. While the aiders weren't necessary, they sure made it easy!

Peter following the pitch 1 bolt ladder

Pitch 2
My guidebook called this pitch 5.7. Steep, yes. Intimidating crux? Yes. But I'd say it's about right for old school 5.7. You never really do any chimney moves. More like a bunch of wide stems.

Clean rock on the P2 5.7 chimney.

P2 Approaching the intimidating crux. Fortunately it's easier than it looks!

Confidence-inspiring fixed gear below the crux of the P2 chimney. Note the drilled angle on the right, which is an angle piton driven into a pre-drilled 3-8" hole in the rock.

Fortunately the roof is split by a wide crack that wasn't too grainy. This made for a great cam placement to protect the crux of stemming out backwards from the chimney and climbing around the roof.

Leading into the crux of the P2 chimney (5.7)

Stemming outside the chimney to pass the roof.

My topo said to squeeze behind the chockstone at the top of the chimney, so I did, at a tight but secure cl. 4. A party behind us later came up the face directly out of the chimney beside the chockstone, which I guess is shown in the ST Topo.

The P2 anchor seen through the Wombat tunnel-through. Suck in tight!

Pete following the tunnel-through on P2.

The ledge here was flat & spacious. It would make a wonderful lunch ledge.

Lovely rock on Ancient Art. This made for interesting climbing and pro placements.

Unfortunately, Peter was trailing the second rope for the rappels, and the nice crack splitting the crux roof likes to eat ropes, so just as he pulled through the chockstone, it stuck tight. He had to downclimb on belay to free it. I recommend, if bringing a second rope for rappels, to wear it as a backpack on this pitch instead of trailing the line.

Base Jumpers!
It turns out the climbers ahead of us were base jumping from the catwalk ridge leading to the Ancient Art summit. First they threw their climbing gear off, suspended by a mini-chute. Then each climber took their leap of fate and quickly deployed.

The deployment of the parasails in the amphitheater made quite a loud bang! There were some hikers with a dog below, and with each jump the poor dog made yelping noises like it was shocked to see these bodies hurtling towards their imminent death. Then once they sailed off to safety, the tone of the barking changed more to a higher pitched yipping, as if the dog were excited or confused at the spectacle.

I figured it was a good thing to have the base jumpers ahead of us. Although my dad had his concerns about the safety & sanity of rock climbing, at least now I had some concrete examples that I wasn't the craziest one here! :-D

Base jumpers on Ancient Art!

Pitch 3
The third pitch was the one I was most concerned about. Discussions on MountainProject mentioned that the first of 3 bolts had pulled out on this pitch, and as of several years later still had not been replaced.

P3 of Stolen Chimney (5.9-5.10ish). The first bolt was pulled out, so you had to run it out a bit. Cl. 4 to the first remaining bolt.

I placed a cam between a detached flake and the rock wall (heh, yeah right) and scrambled up a bit higher. I could see the old bolt hole, and really it only saved you about a half body length of additional class 4 scrambling.

I clipped the rope to the first bolt and started face climbing, as my topo called this pitch 5.9 (SuperTopo calls it 5.10d). I started into a move and just could not find a final secure hold to move up on. I thought for a while, and decided that maybe since the first bolt had pulled out, and my dad was watching, that perhaps now was not the best time to be taking risks. Plus I had already french freed on P1, and this sandstone face climbing seemed like something I wouldn't mind missing, so I yarded on the cam as a jug and moved up to clip the next bolt.

Leading P3 of Stolen Chimney (5.9-5.10ish). I decided to lightly French-free on both bolts rather than risk falling on them.

My experience at the next bolt was the same but with less time spent deciding, and soon I was yarding on that bolt and on top of the final catwalk ridge to the summit.

Looking down P3 of the Stolen Chimney Route from the P3 catwalk belay. Good pitch to French-free.

Ancient Art shadow seen from the P3 catwalk belay.

Pitch 4
Even after looking at photos, the walk to the summit spire from the belay was longer and more exposed than I had expected. There was even a notch where the ridge dropped down a bit, which I shamefully downclimbed instead of just stepping down.

Exposed catwalk leading to the Ancient Art corkscrew summit spire! Stepping across and down over the little notch was slightly scary. No pro until you climb atop the camel head!

My guidebook showed a bolt at the very tip of the camelhead thingy. Happy days! I just had to make it to that cantilevered block. To my dismay, once I got there I didn't see any bolt. I did, however, see a pair of fixed pieces at the base of the protruding rock, but I would either have to mantel the block, or traverse the left side where maybe I could reach the "bolts".

I chose to undercling the camel head and shuffle to the shaft of the spire. The bolts were still out of reach, requiring a committing 5.7 stemming & mantel move to reach. Falling here would send you on a very big pendulum directly off the belay before you smacked into the tower. I'm guessing I was about 20 ft or so out from the belay. Now why did I decide to do this climb with my dad watching?

The move seemed secure enough, so I carefully climbed up the head.

Confidence-inspiring pro: A drilled angle and a star bolt with an aluminum hanger. First pro on the pitch. Time to equalize!

Confidence-inspiring 2nd piece of pro. This drilled angle protects the 5.9 crux (slightly overhanging buckets). Maybe I should have tied it off short?

Once again, photos had failed to capture what the 5.9 crux was like. Yeah, I was feeling pretty confident at leading 5.9, but that has been on crack climbs in Yosemite granite. I've been avoiding face climbs like the plague, and this one was a tad gritty and overhanging. Also, overhangs and exposure get to me.

Looking back at Peter before launching into the summit crux

What am I doing here? Oh well.

The 5.9 crux: slightly overhanging buckets. Short but heady!

I carefully investigated the crux and figured out the few moves needed. They seemed somewhat secure, with some sloper holds in buckets to pull on and a nice vertical pincher between the holes to grab as I advanced my stem up a step. From there I should be able to reach past the overhang. I just hoped the higher edges were positive for a secure finish!

Leading the summit crux. Photos by Dad (gulp)

They were and soon I was through the crux.

Is that a thumb tack? Confidence-inspiring pro just after the 5.9 crux. Fortunately it is an easy but awkward cl. 2 ledge traverse here before you reach the next piece of fixed gear.

Looking down just after the crux. Can you spot the 2 people below?

The summit & lowering slings. Almost there! To the left is the last piece of confidence-inspiring pro. This drilled angle protects a 5.4-5.5 mantle on a solid bucket and a side-crimp on an extremely flexible flake!

As I pulled on a flake & dish to mantel onto the summit, I felt the flake flex noticeably in my grip, and I quickly changed from pulling on it to pushing against it. Take care on this part.

Standing atop Ancient Art. It's a little exposed up there!

I clipped the summit slings and then scrambled to the top of the cap. The rock felt very hollow when I tapped it with my palm. Pure junk, but it was bearing enough on the more solid sandstone beneath that it should be stable enough to stand on.

View down from atop the summit cap.

I was surprised that, once on top, Peter asked if I could clean the pieces while being lowered, as he was nervous with the exposure of the route and wasn't sure about following. I would have none of it. He has always been the bolder climber in my mind, and as he led mid-10s on sport, he should be able to handle the 5.9 crux on top-rope. I couldn't let him miss out on such an amazing summit! After a bit of cajoling I talked Pete into being willing to follow on TR to the summit after I got back to the belay (note, that with the constant traversing nature of this pitch, it is only mildly more secure for the follower than the leader).

Other Ancient Art summits. Check out the wacky slung horn atop the middle summit!

After summitting, Peter lowered me off the top, which was surprisingly unnerving due to the exposure and awkwardness of working around the protruding rock. After lowering down to the catwalk, I awkwardly reversed my undercling/shuffle moves on the camelhead and walked carefully back to the belay, knowing that a fall here would still result in a nasty pendulum, this time back into the summit spire.

The web of ropes show where I traveled on the corkscrew summit of Ancient Art.

Peter following up the summit pitch.

The rappels went smoothly, and my dad congratulated us on a great climb. Although he did say that at some moments he was a bit worried, I jokingly tried to ease his concern by saying that hopefully the worst judgment I exercised in my climbing was having a parent along to watch!

Other Pretty Fisher Tower Pictures

After climbing Ancient Art, the three of us walked out to the end of the trail for more spectacular views of the Fisher Towers and to see the Titan up close (I'd love to climb it someday). Later that night, with temperatures hovering just below freezing, I left the campsite and returned to the trail, armed with my DSLR, 2 bottles of Sierra Nevada beer, and Roper's "Camp 4" book to spend the night reading and tending the camera as I gradually worked my way back along the trail taking night photos. I brought a puffy jacket, puffy pants and bivy sack to stay warm and comfy while lying around waiting for the long exposures to finish (The bivy sack was a bit much and served better as a pillow while reading).

The Cobra
This has got to be the coolest tower in the Fisher Towers, maybe only second to Ancient Art. Next time I'm in the area I've got to aid this thing!

The Cobra. Castleton Tower is in the distance.

The Cobra and Ancient Art seen from the NE on the main trail.

The Cobra seen from the East on the main trail. Ancient Art is on the left and on the right is the Mintaur & King Fisher.

The Cobra at sunset.

The Cobra at night. I light-painted the rock with my headlamp. Aliens!

The Titan
This thing is BIG. It is still hard for me to imagine that these towers are the size of New York skyscrapers, only much more slender and made of rock that liquefies in the rain.

The Titan. Read the sign! The Oracle is on the left. The Titan is the largest free-standing tower in North America!

The Titan at sunset.

For aid climbers not satisfied with the "50 Classic" climb, Finger of Fate (IV, 5.9, A2+ or C3), you can avoid the crowds and climb Sundevil Chimney (VI, 5.9, C4) on the right. Apparently several parties have worn crampons on the route and thought they were helpful (from Selected Climbs in the Desert Southwest).

The Titan at sunset.

The Titan at sunset.

The Titan at sunset.

This trip worked out perfectly. I've missed the desert and I think I've caught the desert crack & tower bug. I'm seeing the desert landscape in a completely different way than I had in my younger years, both for the climbing and the photography potential. This spring I plan to come back with a similar agenda with Peter & my dad: Warm up in the Creek for a couple days then finish off with a desert tower or two. Perhaps Castleton is next?

Castleton Tower from the Fisher Towers. The Priest and the Rectory are on the right.

Cottontail Tower

Echo Tower & Cottontail Tower from the SW.

Echo Tower & Cottontail Tower from the SW base.

Gothic mud rock of Cottontail Tower. You can tell that this turns to sludge in the rain and dribbles down the side, rehardening as it dries out.

Start of an A3+ aid route on Cottontail Tower (S end). Apparently hauling is a pain on this route.

Cottontail Tower & Echo Tower from the East.

Cottontail Tower at night. I light-painted the rock with my headlamp for better exposure, as there was no moon out this night.

Other Towers

King Fisher. These Fisher Towers remind me of the mud sand castles I used to make at the beach, only quite a bit larger.

The Oracle

Personal Website - Little Cottonwood Canyon
Personal Website - Indian Creek
Personal Website - Ancient Art

  Trip Report Views: 7,283
About the Author
PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA.

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Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Mar 15, 2012 - 04:27am PT
Out kinda late aren't ya?


Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
Author's Reply  Mar 15, 2012 - 04:32am PT
Started earlier, but then I got carried away. I haven't had too many rainy days this winter to get me in the mood for writing more trip reports, so I'm a little behind. :-)

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Mar 15, 2012 - 05:40am PT
Well that's taking blow-by-blow to a whole new level! Nice pics. Supertopo needs a spoiler alert button like Netflix so it won't kill the on-sight for concerned folks :)

I would have girth-hitched that drilled angle sticking out. quickdraw sticking out on that thing + fall = goodbye!

I especially like the star rotation pics. I've never had a camera that can leave open the shutter for extended periods to capture stuff like that.

Social climber
Cat Box
  Mar 15, 2012 - 07:00am PT
Daynng! Shoot enough torture pics there?
Carry On!!!
+2 on the time exs......stellar(pardon the pun).

  Mar 15, 2012 - 09:44am PT
This is bitchen!

You crack me up!

Your dad is darling!

You are a wonderful son!


P.S. Nice photos, too!

from SoCal
  Mar 15, 2012 - 10:25am PT
Very nice TR! Thanks
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Mar 15, 2012 - 10:32am PT
Wow! What a tour! And hooray for LCC!

Trad climber
  Mar 15, 2012 - 11:44am PT
Nice trip report Mark. Of course the peg at the crux would be the one with half an inch of erosion.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Mar 15, 2012 - 11:52am PT
Good stuff Wombat!

Trad climber
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Awesome stuff, way to go.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
Wow! I greatly enjoyed reading this and drinking in the wonderful pics. Now I need my daughters to get motivated to haul their dear old dad up a few sweet routes (once I recover in about 8 months).

Thank you very much for this TR.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:41pm PT

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
Excellent TR! Really excellent pics, too, all three of 'em! LOL!

Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
Author's Reply  Mar 15, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
Of course the peg at the crux would be the one with half an inch of erosion.

I wonder about that, if the rock eroded that much since the piton was placed, or if it were pushed out by other means. Freeze-thaw could be pushing it out. Or also, since it is kind of around the corner from where you climb the crux, a falling climber would pendulum on it, perhaps levering it up & out? I didn't test to see how solid it was in the rock as I figured it was best not to know . . .

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Mar 15, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
Super cool. Way to get dad back in the saddle. What a great set of trips. Thanks for all the photos and for the story. Inspiring.

Oakland, CA
  Mar 16, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
Dug it, Mark. Your partner will be glad for the rest of his life that you encouraged him to push through the fear and make the summit. Good call on that one.

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Mar 16, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Nice TR and photos. Thanks for posting.

Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
Author's Reply  Mar 16, 2012 - 04:22pm PT

Very true. It's been sad to surpass my father in outdoor activities so much faster from the ravages of disease rather than normal aging. Since he did so much to foster my love for getting outside and experiencing the world through good physical effort, I've certainly wanted to attempt to 'repay' some of that, and share some of my joy with him beyond vicarious experiences of photos & trip reports.

Your partner will be glad for the rest of his life that you encouraged him to push through the fear and make the summit. Good call on that one.

Thanks Bryce! Peter was my first climbing partner. We met at a climbing class in the Black Diamond gym in 1999 or 2000 and worked up to climbing outside together. Before I left for college in 2002 he was always the stronger & bolder climber, leading 5.9s while I was still shaking on top ropes! It was interesting to see the tables reversed in regards to technique (at least for technical crack) and exposure. Nice to repay the favor of pushing comfort zones to get great experiences.

Pete said that despite his many years of climbing, he had never been on anything nearly as exposed as the final belay & pitch of Ancient Art. Considering I'm a wuss regarding exposure, it was interesting that I took it so well. Maybe my climb up LAS Tip in September helped my head game? :-)

Trad climber
Northampton, MA
  Mar 16, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
Really nice report, great feelings for your dad.
It brought back my memories of doing the climb - thanks.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 16, 2012 - 05:02pm PT

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Mar 16, 2012 - 06:23pm PT

WOW! Your Ancient Art photos and description resulted in an upset stomach and a need for a drink on my part.

Thanks for the vicarious thrill!


Trad climber
Las Vegas
  Mar 16, 2012 - 09:09pm PT

Nice share.
It's obvious that you put a lot of time into documenting and creating such a great tr.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 17, 2012 - 12:15am PT
I always love your TR's you have a ton of passion for climbing and it shows!

Glad your dad didn't see you crater.
I wonder if the base jumpers were Caylor and his hot wife???

Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
Author's Reply  Mar 17, 2012 - 12:27am PT
I wonder if the base jumpers were Caylor and his hot wife???

Probably not, unless his hot wife is pretty masculine. When I asked if they were jumping from the top, they said they "weren't bada$$ enough" for that and were "only" jumping from the catwalk. Oh well . . . :-)

Trad climber
  Mar 18, 2012 - 12:45am PT
Awesome pics! TFPU

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Mar 18, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
It's so wonderful that you have found a new way to share something you love with your father. I hope he has a good pair of binoculars with him to watch you!

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Mar 18, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
Really enjoyed this! It brought back memories of my own refusal to top out on Ancient Art, punctuated with some tears. :) That top out is the crux!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Mar 18, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
On that one, the summit is the climb.... you're in good company though, crimper..

Very Cool, Wombat, Thanks! Did you show your dad the thread?

East Bay, CA
  Mar 18, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
sweet pics man!

Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
Author's Reply  Mar 19, 2012 - 03:22am PT
On that one, the summit is the climb.... you're in good company though, crimper..
Definitely, on both counts! The summit is the climb, but it is also the crux! (more mental than technical I'd say).

Very Cool, Wombat, Thanks! Did you show your dad the thread?

Err, umm, e-mailing now . . .

Social climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
  Mar 21, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
Thanks... that's my backyard. Have climbed and hiked the deserts of south-east Utah since I was a boy(damn near 60 years). Fun to read about somebody else getting some of the same pleasures I was fortunate enough to share...

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Mar 21, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Very cool TR! Sick pics.

Trad climber
Point Pleasant, NJ
  Mar 21, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
For your next trip, try Lizard Head just outside Telluride, CO. Considered one of the most rotten rock climbs in the world. LOL

Great read, glad to see you and your Dad still able to do somethings together.

The hike in to Lizard Head is probably far too long for your dad.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Mar 22, 2012 - 09:56am PT
Now that is a proper trip report! Stunning photos. Well done.

Trad climber
Melbourne, FL
  Mar 22, 2012 - 10:34am PT
Great report, the climbing and cracks look amazing out there. The tower looks like fun too, great pictures as well!

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Mar 22, 2012 - 10:41am PT
Sweet trip report Pellucid, its quite rad that your dad got out to enjoy the adventure, he deserves a rad dad tee shirt!

Keep the awesome TRs comming!
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Stolen Chimney - Ancient Art 5.8 A0 - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Ancient Art from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara