Trip Report
La Pyramide...Patagonia's Devils Tower on steroids.
Monday February 24, 2014 3:55pm
Yep, right there in the desert two hours drive from my house. Great venue when the weather over the ice cap is bad, a not uncommon event. Route potential up to 700 feet. So far there are around 22 or 23 pitches with four excellent multi pitch climbs in the 5.11a to 11d range and some nice single pitch climbs starting at 5.8+.
First developed by myself and fellow Americans Jay Smith, Jim Turner, Roger Schimmel and Weston Boyles, the area got a real boost this year from visiting Brits Dave Brown and John Crook who established three excellent new multi pitch routes up to 11d. I wasn't able to climb on the first trip due to a tweaked back muscle but got in some licks on the second foray with Dave, John and Angela a couple of days ago.
Two hours hiking brings you to basecamp at a good spring with only soaring condors and noisy guanacos to disturb your solitude. Not concerned about this TR leading to overcrowding as the area is far from the fleshpots of El Chalten and the Torres de Paine.
Future development likely to come from local Andres Bozollo who has likely developed a trained cadre of young climbers in Chile Chico.
Approx. three bolts have been placed for pro and there are a few bolted belays but the area is 99% place your own gear bro. Definetly bring wires.
Enjoy the following pics....climbing in undiscovered Patagonia. Have some other things going........which will remain enshrouded in mystery.

Dave belaying, John sending.
Dave belaying, John sending.
Credit: donini
Dave and John on a new 5.11 route.
Dave and John on a new 5.11 route.
Credit: donini
The white speck in the center is John....gives some perspective.
The white speck in the center is John....gives some perspective.
Credit: donini
local wildlife
local wildlife
Credit: donini
Look closely for the condor.
Look closely for the condor.
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Semi hanging belay.
Semi hanging belay.
Credit: donini
Yes....the climbing is good.
Yes....the climbing is good.
Credit: donini
John dressed for battle.
John dressed for battle.
Credit: donini
John on 11d crux.
John on 11d crux.
Credit: donini
Yours truly getting his licks in.
Yours truly getting his licks in.
Credit: donini
Wanted to be sure you could see my pretty face.
Wanted to be sure you could see my pretty face.
Credit: donini
Lots of unclimbed rock.
Lots of unclimbed rock.
Credit: donini
basecamp
basecamp
Credit: donini
Dave Brown hiking out.
Dave Brown hiking out.
Credit: donini

  Trip Report Views: 5,865
donini
About the Author
donini is a trad climber from Ouray, Colorado.

Comments
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philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
Shazzam! That's a mind tripper to be sure. How stunning. TFPU.

But what's with the Spaceman suit? What's he going to do battle with a fire breathing dragon guarding the start of the route?
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
Wow, looks like an awesome place.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
wow, just wow!!! thanks for the eye candy.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
I knew there had to be another one out there somewhere!

Um, what's up with Ziggy Stardust?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:26pm PT
Man, your killing me. Went to the tower last week but it is snowing at 10 degrees today. I would love to climb on that thing some day, but I wish the approach was a little shorter. Does allegiant fly there?
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
Stunning!

TFPU!

Andrzej
Weez

climber
East Bay, Ca
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
that's amazing photos! thanks for sharing.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
There are so many possible routes on that thing that I just got stressed looking at the pictures.
MikeL

Social climber
Seattle, WA
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
Wow. TFPU. Wow.
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
  Feb 24, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
Wow. Just WOW!

What is the rock quality like?
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  Feb 24, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
Do I need my rack or just a dozen or so quickdraws?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Feb 24, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
My oh my. Rather very nice!

Susan
this just in

climber
north fork
  Feb 24, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
Damn that looks fun Donini. Great pics, you are the definition of a climber. Gracias.
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
  Feb 25, 2014 - 12:06am PT
Can i get more beta jim
Got dec and jan off and was thinking about goin to argentina
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 25, 2014 - 08:47am PT
Wyde cracks?
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Feb 25, 2014 - 09:10am PT
Your a very lucky man, Mr Donini!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Feb 25, 2014 - 09:16am PT
Nice crag!
So, what elevation is it?
Bad Climber

climber
  Feb 25, 2014 - 09:17am PT
Holy vert basalt, Batman! That rocks.

Thanks so much, Mr. Donini. What a treat. Nature is grand, ain't it?

BAd
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
  Feb 25, 2014 - 09:54am PT
That looks like Dolerite not Basalt. Sometimes known as Diabase. Similar but rougher and more friction. My guess anyway.

Jim where's that new helmut of yours?



Arne
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
Probably right on the rock...excellent friction. Wasn't supposed to be a big climbing trip this year in Patagonia, left the helmet home.
pc

climber
  Feb 25, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
Wow! What a place! Thanks for sharing.

pc
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Feb 25, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
Qua-li-tay.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Feb 25, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
Rad rock, cool trad...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 25, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
Good on ya Jim,
Way to keep getting after it!!!!
So much rock, so little time.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 25, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
sweet


but that's a bit far for choss...

loose blocks, no?
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
  Feb 25, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
Looks like an endless amount of fun lines on that thing! So nice to see climbing photos from Patagonia that do not look like they are freezing miserable, with a mushroom of ice brine on top :)
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
  Feb 25, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
!!! rad
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
  Feb 25, 2014 - 10:32pm PT
Wow! That looks amazing Jim.

I gotta make it up to your place and check that zone out some time soon.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Author's Reply  Feb 26, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
Anytime Mikey. Munge, loose blocks....no.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Feb 26, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
Awesome. Looks like finding a nice, continuos line is the challenge. Probably because there's so many to choose from!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 26, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
Excellent TR, Jim. Looks like a cool locale.
It's not on fire, is it? ;-)
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Feb 26, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
Spectacular
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Feb 26, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Looks awesome, glad you had a good trip!!! Hope to see you in Yosemite this spring!
Manny

Social climber
tempe
  Mar 5, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
I want to go...
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
  Mar 5, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
Amazeballs!! Looks like you could jump the left side as well!
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Mar 5, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
WOW!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Mar 5, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
anyone want to sponsor me down there?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 5, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
sweet, no loose blocks. You guys bivi out, or in and out same day?

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Author's Reply  Mar 10, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
Munge....it's 2 to 2.5 hours in to a sweet camp with a great spring. 35 minutes up to the wall from there. Could do an in/out but way better to go in for a few days.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Mar 11, 2014 - 12:02am PT
Probably never get a chance to visit, but I get this great sense of wonder knowing that places like that are out there. Ain't life grand.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 11, 2014 - 02:28am PT
Magic
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Mar 11, 2014 - 09:53am PT

Like Briham, WOW!!!!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Mar 11, 2014 - 10:49am PT

BBST to the max!!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Mar 11, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
Great TR, Jim!
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
  Mar 11, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
Utmost admiration for your exceptional contributions, Jim! Lichen the critter pix in your posts too. Wonder if there are local legends about bears clawing at the rock and carving the grooves on the Pyramid, as in Devils Tower. If my wife and I ever make it down there, I'll gladly help out with some hazard reduction at your place. :^)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Mar 11, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
hey there, say, donini.... wow, i can SEE the pics!!!
wow, again... great share!


and, well, as to THIS:

Yep, right there in the desert two hours drive from my house.
MORE great stuff!!! nothing like having a wonderful 'backyard' :)
overwatch

climber
  Mar 11, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
Mr. Donini, sir, that is one impressive chunk of rock. Thank you for showing us.
Bill Thompson

Ice climber
Marquette
  Mar 11, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
Beautiful! Gotta make those plans
10b4me

climber
  Mar 12, 2014 - 10:32am PT
Bump
notreallyanaidclimber

Trad climber
CO
  Mar 16, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
Looks like a beautiful formation. Thanks for sharing Jim and congrats on finding such a gem.

Am I wrong to think that it is located just west of the road that heads south from Chile Chico towards the entrance of Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni? I recall seeing some impressive formations west of that road. If you would rather keep the location a secret that is quite understandable too.


mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Mar 16, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
Frickin incredible....Taller then Devils tower or any other CA basalt Formations. Jim are you sure you want us unworthy brethren to even know about this crag. As history has shown the more folks going there the place goes to Shite. I remember the joy of climbing at the leap in the 70's....That's gone.
cintune

climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
  Mar 16, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
Bump just to add to the chorus of "wow"s. Amazing clean looking summit, too; all those polygons. Could just as well be rhyolite or andesite, the composition doesn't matter, it's all in how fast it cooled. Any pics from up there?
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Mar 16, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
That is porn..... I envy you Jim.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Mar 17, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Jim,
Great photos of a beautiful country.
Took a road trip, South of Coyaique, 8 years ago with a buddy, his Brazilian wife and a friend of hers. We had no climbing gear, but my buddy and I drooled for two weeks over the possibilities.

BTW: That friend of mine and his wife, who I traveled with, have a B&B in Buzios, outside of Rio de Janeiro. They hosted a friend of yours and his Brazilian wife when I was there in November and December. Great people. He's a commercial pilot, flies to South America out of Miami and has a place in Ourey. He showed us some photos of climbing with you near Moab.
(Jeeze, I feel like a twelve year old talking to Mickey Mantle in Yankee Stadium.)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Author's Reply  Mar 18, 2014 - 09:50am PT
Yeah...it's clearly visible from Chile Chico and is just west of the road heading into the reserve. Mark, not worried about too much traffic, more concerned about too little...needs development.
I hope the locals get after it.
notreallyanaidclimber

Trad climber
CO
  Mar 18, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
Thanks Jim!

I agree with you that traffic, in such a remote locale, won't be an issue. More development will undoubtedly help the local climbers too. There is a good crew of young climbers in the town of Perito Moreno, about one hour and a half east, on the Argentine side. They will be psyched to hear about this spot you discovered.

Thanks again for sharing.
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  May 10, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
Bump for an "all Donini" front page.

Make it happen.
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