Trip Report
Home, home in Mexico City
Monday October 15, 2012 3:04pm
Okay, this is less a trip report than an average day in what might be among the world's top 5 urban crags (I'd actually be really curious to see that list). Get up in the morning at 7 or so and hop on either the Metro or the Metrobus and get to Perisur in the south of the city. Buy some tamales for the road if you dare or a tamale sandwich - a tamale wrapped in bread that hits your gut with a thump. Catch a cab for US$10 to Dinamos National Park. On the way, you will pass adorable little towns that used to be independent of DF and still feel like something out of a movie. Stop and grab coffee at one of the town squares if you like.
If you want to clip bolts or just eat tacos all day, stop at the 2nd Dinamo (an old dam generator in the river). But if you want some of the best basalt cracks this side of the Pecos keep going to the 4th Dinamo or "Coconetla" in the old Aztec. You will notice that you are totally free of the city and will suck in the crisp air and pines at 10,00 feet. Don't worry, you are still technically in Mexico City!
Skip the food here - it's too pricey and not great. Go straight to the massive wall hanging over the valley to your right. Long winding trail will get you there - probably. At the base, you will find the jolliest crew of misfits and hardmen south of the Rio Grande. Routes run from 5.8 to hard 5.11 and most are three very vertical pitches or so. Do Viaje Mágico y Misterioso. three of the coolest pitches this side of ... I don't know .. the Colorado River? Every route here is clean climbing, totally vertical, and just stunning. And the views are next to none. Dalias, Hormigas, and Marlon Brandon are not to be missed!
After you are good and tuckered out, hitch a ride down to Hongos, a taco place halfway down the road to 2nd Dinamos. Oh my God, no stuff you starving little face with the greatest rabbit tacos this side of ... anywhere. Continue down the the mountain and ponder why it is that you have never heard of this amazing place before now.




  Trip Report Views: 564
Erik Vance
About the Author
Erik Vance is a trad climber from Berkeley, CA now based in Mexico City.

Comments
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sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
  Oct 15, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Pics... Gotta have pics!!
Sounds great!
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
  Oct 15, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Nice report. I was born and raised in Mexico City and have done a fair amount of climbing at Los Dinamos. I now live in Mexico's premier climbing arena, El Potrero Chico.

http://magicedspotrerochico.com
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
  Oct 15, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
must have recipe for rabbit tacos! i can afford tortillas and rabbits
jump into any piece of 4" pipe i happen to leave on the ground.

what fun it was to visit a pal, sergio fitch watkins, down in the district federale bitd. he had a bug w/o a clutch, and celebrated our arrival by weaving an erratic path thru town, cramming what seemed like any random cabron standing on a corner with a rope over his shoulder into the back with my 95 lb gf until past capacity and then proceeded in 1st/2nd gear to some place that fits your description.

i was presented with shoes and the sharp end of a rope and pointed at who knows what ...

the evening was characterized by an endless series of hastily contrived merging right turns at congested intersections till the crew had been disgorged, some times on the run, as push starts seemed needlessly flamboyant in traffic where pride was paramount

Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
  Oct 15, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
needs photos plz
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Oct 15, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Here is some stuff I found on the web.
http://nmobrien.wordpress.com/2009/07/08/getting-high-on-crack-climbing-that-is/

Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 15, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
None of them doods are wearing a sombrero or packing an AK - can't be Mexico.
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