Trip Report
Heckmaier route on Eiger (spring 2007)
Wednesday November 25, 2015 11:33am
Someone wanted to see photos from the Eiger in Switzerland, so I'll post a few here. Anyone who can lead 5.8 rock can physically do this climb as most of it is scrambling, but you better not fall, because then you will pull out the belay and take your partner with you!

I never actually got a good photo of the north face, so let's just begin with a classic butt shot instead...

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The start of 'Difficult Crack'.
The start of 'Difficult Crack'.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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The top of 'Difficult Crack'.
The top of 'Difficult Crack'.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Snow ramp after D.C.
Snow ramp after D.C.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Pulling fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser. Pretty sure this pitch woul...
Pulling fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser. Pretty sure this pitch would have shut down 90% of the people who have climbed this route including myself. Don't understand how Ueli has free soloed this pitch, but I guess that is what makes him a machine...
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Ice Hose pitch.
Ice Hose pitch.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Sunset seen from somewhere in the middle of Eiger's north face.
Sunset seen from somewhere in the middle of Eiger's north face.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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'The Spider' ice field.
'The Spider' ice field.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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'Death Bivouac' ledge.
'Death Bivouac' ledge.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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The ramp.
The ramp.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Crappy rock at the ramp.
Crappy rock at the ramp.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Squeeze chimney on the ramp.
Squeeze chimney on the ramp.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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After the ramp.
After the ramp.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Crappy shale at the end of the ramp.
Crappy shale at the end of the ramp.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Traverse before the gods.
Traverse before the gods.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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'Traverse of the Gods'.
'Traverse of the Gods'.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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'Exit cracks'.
'Exit cracks'.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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  Trip Report Views: 5,118
KristofferSzilas
About the Author
Kristoffer Szilas is a mountain climber from Denmark.

Comments
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Nov 25, 2015 - 11:54am PT
Awesome pics, thanks!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 25, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
Thank you very much for those superb pictures. Each really is worth a thousand words.

John
WBraun

climber
  Nov 25, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
Has Donald Trump done this route yet??

Thanks Kris ..... :-)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Nov 25, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
Great pics from legendary route...
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Nov 25, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
Thanks for posting this TR.

Anyone who can lead 5.8 rock can physically do this climb as most of it is scrambling, but you better not fall, because then you will pull out the belay and take your partner with you!

Interesting comment. Didn't Heckmaier (or Harrer?) fall in the Exit Cracks during the first ascent? I think whoever fell landed on the belayer and put a crampon through the belayer's hand.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Nov 25, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
Looks pretty high from those views!
That Bivvy looked cold
Good one!
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Nov 25, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
5.8 on a big limestone face bears little relation to 5.8 elsewhere.
My friend Kevin climbed this route in 1983 with a Scottish guy who was experienced on Scottish mixed, rock, and ice, but had never been on a big mountain! Kevin later said "He slowed us down we should have been able to do it in 12 hours instead on 18."
KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber
Denmark
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
Didn't Heckmaier (or Harrer?) fall in the Exit Cracks during the first ascent? I think whoever fell landed on the belayer and put a crampon through the belayer's hand.


Don't remember where that fall was taken, but probably a good thing to land on the belayer, rather than falling past the anchor, even when wearing crampons. I do remember something about them downing liquid amphetamine afterwards to be able to proceed...

My comment was mostly to not invite people to attempt the climb unless they realize that they may actually die on this one. Every single belay anchor on this route is total crap and most of the time you are clipping in situ rotten pitons and wooden blocks. The only solid rock found on this climb is on the difficult crack (limestone) and even then most of the cracks are flaring and won't take much good gear. The rest of the route is a pile of shale.

If you take a fall on the 'Ice Hose' or 'Traverse of the Gods' pitches, you and our belayer will likely be off the mountain...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 25, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
Thank you for all these awesome reports. Highly appreciate the climbing content!
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Nov 25, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
Don't fall on a big alpine wall. Good advice.
Roots

Mountain climber
Somewhere Fun
  Nov 25, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
Yes!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 25, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
Sweet KS! You have really knocked off some of the world's classics. 5.8 eh.....and a few other tricks in the bag.
namascar

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
  Nov 25, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
super classic!
KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber
Denmark
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
Jim, you would know better than most that a climber is not defined by success and classics, but by the ones that got away because they where right at the limit. For me that were climbs such as Moonflower, Cholatse and Taulliraju.
Apart from Latok you must have quite a few too?
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
  Nov 26, 2015 - 10:51am PT
Way cool! Thanks for sharing!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 27, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
thanks for sharing ,
Scary looking rock there!
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Nov 28, 2015 - 06:40am PT
Thanks for the report...sounds so inviting. Crappy rock and shitty pro seems a recurring theme.
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
  Nov 28, 2015 - 09:19am PT
Great trip report and an iconic climb. Cheers, Roy
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Nov 29, 2015 - 07:46am PT
Wow, scary stuff. Grades sure can be deceiving.
Thanks for the great photos and story.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:21am PT
Pucker factor
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Dec 2, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
I could shoot myself for not doing this when I had a chance.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Dec 2, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
Hey thanks for sharing! I've read about this route since a youngster.
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Apr 21, 2016 - 10:09am PT
Outrageously awesome! Just WOW.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Apr 21, 2016 - 06:31pm PT
Thanks for the photos and scary tidbits of this Classic-Yes, looks and sounds like all my images of the wall since reading the first ascent as a kid.
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