I wanted to post this in a trip report so it doesn't get missed in a thread.
Congrats Hans and Alex, you guys CRUSHED it!!
That was way better than I expected. I thought they'd break it by a few minutes (what has typically happened the last few times the record was broken), and if everything went perfect perhaps they could break 2:30, which is almost 7 minutes faster. But 2:23:46, almost 13 minutes faster??!! Wow! It's funny how everyone's comment was they "crushed it". No other words could describe it.
Thanks Jeff (fattrad) for the campsite! One of the best sites in the park, you know how to work it!
Great to meet you Dean (Cragman), Doug (Flanders) and Paden. That was a fun campfire session! I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to say a proper goodbye, I thought I'd see you in the meadow. Hope to see you again, and I'll let you know next time I head down the East side (rarely unfortunately).
Once they were on the wall my eyes were pretty much glued to the binoculars or my tracking sheet the whole time, so I'm a little bummed I didn't get a chance to meet and talk to so many other cool people that were there.
They started at 5:51AM
Here's the splits in H:M-
0:18 to sickle (right on pace)
0:45 Hans to Dolt! 5 minutes off their 6/14/12 pace, I knew something special was happening
1:12 Hans and Alex to Eagle Ledge about halfway. 9 minutes off 6/14/12 time, probably 6 minutes off record pace, they were in great shape.
1:44 Alex to Camp 5
1:48 Hans to Camp 5 previous pace 2:03-2:11
When they were near the top and the time was still reading under 2:20 I knew they not only had the record but were going to blow it away. 2:23:46, I had 2:23 and change on my watch and Hans radioed the actual time from the summit.
Hans led from the start to Eagle Ledge with Alex arriving at about 1:12, in ONE pitch with about 16 cams.
Alex led the rest in ONE pitch, in about 1:12 as well.
I believe they both knocked about 6 minutes of their "pitch" from 6/14. What great teamwork, they both led about 1/2 the route, in 1/2 the time, and knocked off 1/2 the time. Cool!
As mentioned there were about 200 people in the meadow and on the bridge. What a fun time!
They only had to pass one party, who waited under the Great Roof until they passed. Update: I didn't see it, but I they also passed a party at Camp VI.
Sorry, these pics are kinda big. Sorry about the watermark, I've had stuff posted online reused without my permission and that bugs me.
So cool. It would be really interesting to hear where about each climber places one of those 16 cams, where there were fixed pieces to clip, and so on. Seems like with that light a rack they must have been climbing some sections with next to nothing between them!
edit: ^^^this sounds like petty bickering unless you can prove otherwise.
Yeah, c'mon, it's about the event, not pissing contests over who gets the table scraps. Neither of you fine gents did the climbing, so get over yourselves and simply celebrate like Alex and Hans. It's a BIG DEAL so get the f*#k over yourselves. We don't care.
Mammoth Lakes, California....via the Damascus Road
Jun 19, 2012 - 08:49am PT
Thanks again for posting here, Steve! It was SO cool that you and others were at the base. Those of us in the Meadow heard your cheer for the Dynamic Duo when they launched, so we were able to set our watches by that! From our vantage, we first saw Hans about 100 feet below Sickle.
Having your pics of that first section that was obscured to us fills in the blank...so...THANKS!!!!!
Paden really enjoyed picking your guitar....thanks to you and Rich for keeping us entertained around the fire....great times!
Great photos and TR little brother! Thanks for sharing the experience with those who couldn't be there. Of course you're gonna get crap from people no matter what you post. About 10% of the people on the internet seem to be haters and trolls. It doesn't seem to matter what forum you're on. So the rule applies: "Don't Feed the Trolls"
And yes...thanks Jeff (fattrad) for the campsite! It was great to meet and hang out with you Dean (Cragman), Doug (Flanders) and Paden.
Congrats to Alex and Hans! So cool how they both led half the climb and that they both shaved crucial time off for each section. Happy Birthday to Hans (6/18) You help me realize that 48 years does not mean we have to slow down!
Let's just say I could climb the Nose in 27 hours (haven't done it) and I could currently do 17 pullups, 15 bar-dips, and 127 deep-knee bends in a row. The question is...how many pullups, bar-dips, and deep-knee bends in a row would I have to do to contemplate going after the current Nose speed record? And also, do you think I would need to do something different, in say, my diet (I'm currently 190 lbs)?
There is really nothing to compare to the sound of 200 people cheering "GO GO GO" while pinching off your morning poop on El Cap. An experience I will never forget. Was fun to be up there during this event, Alex and Hans were done before I had my 2nd cup of coffee on the ledge. Pretty amazing. Congrats!
Great pictures, Chris! What a day!! It was exciting to be there and watch it happen. Extremely proud, both to be related to such an outstanding athlete (this is Alex's mom), and to know such a terrific bunch of folks (climbers). I've really enjoyed meeting and getting to know you.
The day after this triumph, Alex climbed w/me and my friends on Daff Dome, and then led us up Matthes Crest 2 days later. That must have been the biggest change-of-pace come-down in history!...but he was great about it.
I look forward to Hans' Trip Report. And more pictures!
petah, great location for a video . Historic, thanks for sharing that. Must have been awesome to catch that scene run right past you:-) You guys looked like you were doing pretty nice on the route as well.