Trip Report
Hans and Alex Crush The Nose Speed Record with Photos
Monday June 18, 2012 8:59pm
I wanted to post this in a trip report so it doesn't get missed in a thread.

Congrats Hans and Alex, you guys CRUSHED it!!

That was way better than I expected. I thought they'd break it by a few minutes (what has typically happened the last few times the record was broken), and if everything went perfect perhaps they could break 2:30, which is almost 7 minutes faster. But 2:23:46, almost 13 minutes faster??!! Wow! It's funny how everyone's comment was they "crushed it". No other words could describe it.

Thanks Jeff (fattrad) for the campsite! One of the best sites in the park, you know how to work it!

Great to meet you Dean (Cragman), Doug (Flanders) and Paden. That was a fun campfire session! I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to say a proper goodbye, I thought I'd see you in the meadow. Hope to see you again, and I'll let you know next time I head down the East side (rarely unfortunately).

Once they were on the wall my eyes were pretty much glued to the binoculars or my tracking sheet the whole time, so I'm a little bummed I didn't get a chance to meet and talk to so many other cool people that were there.

They started at 5:51AM

Here's the splits in H:M-
0:18 to sickle (right on pace)
0:45 Hans to Dolt! 5 minutes off their 6/14/12 pace, I knew something special was happening
1:12 Hans and Alex to Eagle Ledge about halfway. 9 minutes off 6/14/12 time, probably 6 minutes off record pace, they were in great shape.
1:44 Alex to Camp 5
1:48 Hans to Camp 5 previous pace 2:03-2:11
When they were near the top and the time was still reading under 2:20 I knew they not only had the record but were going to blow it away.
2:23:46, I had 2:23 and change on my watch and Hans radioed the actual time from the summit.

Hans led from the start to Eagle Ledge with Alex arriving at about 1:12, in ONE pitch with about 16 cams.

Alex led the rest in ONE pitch, in about 1:12 as well.

I believe they both knocked about 6 minutes of their "pitch" from 6/14. What great teamwork, they both led about 1/2 the route, in 1/2 the time, and knocked off 1/2 the time. Cool!

As mentioned there were about 200 people in the meadow and on the bridge. What a fun time!

They only had to pass one party, who waited under the Great Roof until they passed. Update: I didn't see it, but I they also passed a party at Camp VI.

Sorry, these pics are kinda big. Sorry about the watermark, I've had stuff posted online reused without my permission and that bugs me.

Here's a video Joe Beaver posted on YouTube with a telescope from El Cap Meadow:

Check out Paul Hara's awesome photos from the summit and an interview with Hans here:

Here's a thread with Hans detailed trip report:

Here's a thread from the day of the climb:

Credit: the Fet

  Trip Report Views: 15,448
the Fet
About the Author
the Fet is a climber from Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La.

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Trad climber
Mammoth and SLO.....Life is Good!!!
  Jun 18, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
So cool to connect with you guys, Steve! Thanks for sharing the site with us! Saturday night was good times!

Great pics of the dynamic duo at the base. Sure was an event not to be missed!

Thanks for posting this, and hope to connect with you guys again soon!

Our door is open....

Trad climber
  Jun 18, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
Nice pics! Alex is looking honed!

Oakland, CA
  Jun 18, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
Hell yeah. Hell. Yes.

Thanks for posting.

Random Nobody
  Jun 18, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Amazing Trip Report!!!

Awesome photos.

And that last pic….


Cheers all!!!

  Jun 18, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
The best thing about this is it looks like it was a lot of fun!

What could be better... break the record, have a blast...?
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  Jun 18, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
Alex has cleaned one cam on the first pitch, so Hans has 15 left to get to eagle ledge.


  Jun 18, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
So cool. It would be really interesting to hear where about each climber places one of those 16 cams, where there were fixed pieces to clip, and so on. Seems like with that light a rack they must have been climbing some sections with next to nothing between them!

Very impressive feat. Congrats to them both.


Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 18, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Awesome job! SShots! and love the laurel leaves like the first acsent of 1/2 dome. Super human effort!!!!!
the Fet

Author's Reply  Jun 19, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
Edit: my previous post here was in reply to a comment, since deleted, saying this shouldn't have been posted as a Trip Report since I was reporting on someone else's climb.

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Jun 18, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
yes, delete the thread, because your ego wasn't sufficiently obvious from the outset

  Jun 18, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
The Fet went to Yosemite and wrote a TR about an event that went on there. F*#kin' great TR. IMO

Jebus H Bomz

Sacramento, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 12:04am PT
edit: ^^^this sounds like petty bickering unless you can prove otherwise.

Yeah, c'mon, it's about the event, not pissing contests over who gets the table scraps. Neither of you fine gents did the climbing, so get over yourselves and simply celebrate like Alex and Hans. It's a BIG DEAL so get the f*#k over yourselves. We don't care.

Social climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 12:31am PT
Great Trip Report....Eric...Did nott talk to his father and his mother used a "Eric, Eric" at the start if every conversation...Poor Eric.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 19, 2012 - 12:38am PT
Nice shots!

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Jun 19, 2012 - 01:27am PT
Thanks for the TR

Folks this day was so truly amazing that I simply still cannot get enough of it...and I was there.


Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
  Jun 19, 2012 - 01:29am PT
Hey, thanks for the TR. Cool shots.
Climbing is great.


Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 19, 2012 - 01:36am PT
Well it IS a nice Trip Report, you were there at the start with the men themselves.

Mr. E man, it was a moving experience, just like the superbowl, but with all skinny people drinking Seirra NV at 7 in the morning.

Good thing these pix are not buried, hard as hell to rebirth the goods from the bowels of the taco.


Social climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:05am PT
Cool read, are people serious about is/isn't a TR? Nonsense. This is great. But, seems the photos have disappeared,... Any other way to see them?
Park Rat

Social climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:50am PT
Really good pictures, thanks so much.

These guys make rock climbing look so easy, I think that's the scary part.
the Fet

Author's Reply  Jun 19, 2012 - 03:01am PT
Thanks for all the kind words folks, I appreciate it.

dfinnecy, try refreshing your browser.

Trad climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 03:17am PT
Awesome photos dude!

  Jun 19, 2012 - 03:25am PT
Thanks for the photos. It surprised me to see so much stuff clipped on the first pitch, and Alex working the rope. They must do that stuff really quickly - we need video!
Don Paul

Mountain climber
Denver CO
  Jun 19, 2012 - 07:44am PT
Video yes. And there IS video out there somewhere. Give it up, people.

Trad climber
Mammoth and SLO.....Life is Good!!!
  Jun 19, 2012 - 08:49am PT
Thanks again for posting here, Steve! It was SO cool that you and others were at the base. Those of us in the Meadow heard your cheer for the Dynamic Duo when they launched, so we were able to set our watches by that! From our vantage, we first saw Hans about 100 feet below Sickle.

Having your pics of that first section that was obscured to us fills in the!!!!!

Paden really enjoyed picking your guitar....thanks to you and Rich for keeping us entertained around the fire....great times!

Best to you and family,

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jun 19, 2012 - 09:09am PT
Thanks Fet - cool shots!

Mountain climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 10:14am PT

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 19, 2012 - 11:02am PT
Wait a minute, someone bitched about this being a "trip report"?
Well my guess is that if Hans and Alex aren't posting, then somebody needs to post a "report" about their "trip".

Whatevz, congratulations boys, nicely done. I led 30 pitches in 8 days recently, am I almost as cool as they are? HA!!!

Trad climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 11:40am PT
wow, that is SO amazing and thanks for sharing. I like the picts, exp the last.

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jun 19, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Smart wearing a helmet. Didn't seem to slow down the effort. Congrats from Seoul South Korea!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 12:51pm PT

What a treat to be in El Cap meadow and watch this amazing event. very cool !

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
Congratulations!! Awesome and Amazing job! I think we all know you would break the record, but it's how you did it and by how much ... well ... stunning! World Class !

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 01:57pm PT

Great work Hans and Alex. Thanks for the inspiration!
Don Paul

Mountain climber
Denver CO
  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Nice vid! Now the nose in a day parties are getting passed, who would have expected.

Trad climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
Killer pics. Very cool.

Malibu, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Great photos and TR little brother! Thanks for sharing the experience with those who couldn't be there. Of course you're gonna get crap from people no matter what you post. About 10% of the people on the internet seem to be haters and trolls. It doesn't seem to matter what forum you're on. So the rule applies: "Don't Feed the Trolls"

And yes...thanks Jeff (fattrad) for the campsite! It was great to meet and hang out with you Dean (Cragman), Doug (Flanders) and Paden.

Congrats to Alex and Hans! So cool how they both led half the climb and that they both shaved crucial time off for each section. Happy Birthday to Hans (6/18) You help me realize that 48 years does not mean we have to slow down!


San Jose, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
more video please..
the Fet

Author's Reply  Jun 19, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Fantastic video Petah!

How amazing is it that Alex can and will shoot the sh#t with fellow climbers while climbing by on a world record attempt.

Social climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
Fet? what did you expect them to do ? :-) Not talk ?

My experience with climbers is they're just climbers. Some also happen to have sideline jobs like astrofizzix or auto mechanic or treehugger.

Great TR; nice sports reporting !

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jun 19, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Nice photos, and the video was pretty cool too! I didn't want it to stop.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Jun 19, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
How amazing is it that Alex can and will shoot the sh#t with fellow climbers while climbing by on a world record attempt.

That was my thought. Never met 'im but I think I like this kid.

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Jun 19, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
More video!!!

Total Class when taking that long break in your NIAD effort!!

You guys were the subject of more than a few conversations in the Meadow..

Oh I hope they don't start the roof yet.. I think they must know what is happening and want a front row seat.

So freaking cool to see this video..

Grats on climbing through the night..and nabbing the NIAD! you guys have super powerful headlamps.. actually put spots in my eyes from the meadow!!


Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
  Jun 19, 2012 - 06:37pm PT

The Fet, Thanks for the Trip report and Pictures...very cool!!

Petah, Thanks for the Video!! must have more?
Don Paul

Mountain climber
Denver CO
  Jun 19, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
That's right, part two of this video must be a butt shot of them climbing the great roof.

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Jun 19, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
So, I've got an algebraic, SAT-type question.

Let's just say I could climb the Nose in 27 hours (haven't done it) and I could currently do 17 pullups, 15 bar-dips, and 127 deep-knee bends in a row. The question many pullups, bar-dips, and deep-knee bends in a row would I have to do to contemplate going after the current Nose speed record? And also, do you think I would need to do something different, in say, my diet (I'm currently 190 lbs)?

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Jun 19, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
Good question!

After long and exhastive study involving consultation with many experts...

Looks to me like you will need several reincarnations to achieve something similar to this.

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
  Jun 19, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Great video, but seriously...he's just casually walking up the route...and holding a bloody conversation while he's doing it. At my absolute best BITD, I made 5.9 look desperate. This is amazing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
  Jun 19, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
Bump for more video, even if it's a bum shot.

You call this a TR???

Just kidding! Thanks!

Trad climber
mammoth lakes, ca
  Jun 19, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
Thanks climbsk2, petah and I had no idea we where going to have prime seats for the show intel we pulled into el cap meadow to start our adventure. No way would we hold up a show like that!

Trad climber
Mammoth and SLO.....Life is Good!!!
  Jun 20, 2012 - 10:52am PT
Steve, once again, thanks for the pics. That shot of Frost with his camera.......priceless!

And Petah, I share the same sentiment as Climbski2....watching you guys wait for them to pass........class act for sure. Thanks for the great video......(Oliver Twist voice).....more please!!!!!

Good on ya,

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 20, 2012 - 11:44am PT
More Video, that was ever so good!

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Jun 20, 2012 - 11:58am PT
There is really nothing to compare to the sound of 200 people cheering "GO GO GO" while pinching off your morning poop on El Cap. An experience I will never forget. Was fun to be up there during this event, Alex and Hans were done before I had my 2nd cup of coffee on the ledge. Pretty amazing. Congrats!

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 20, 2012 - 12:14pm PT

And congrats to the filmmakers too!!
Don Paul

Mountain climber
Denver CO
  Jun 20, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
Newsflash: Hans Florine writes on his facebook page, that he plans to write up a detailed trip report within the next few days. Stay tuned.
Magic D

Trad climber
  Jun 26, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
Great pictures, Chris! What a day!! It was exciting to be there and watch it happen. Extremely proud, both to be related to such an outstanding athlete (this is Alex's mom), and to know such a terrific bunch of folks (climbers). I've really enjoyed meeting and getting to know you.

The day after this triumph, Alex climbed w/me and my friends on Daff Dome, and then led us up Matthes Crest 2 days later. That must have been the biggest change-of-pace come-down in history!...but he was great about it.

I look forward to Hans' Trip Report. And more pictures!
the Fet

Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
Hans posted his trip report on his climbing facebook page:

It's also been re-posted here which is easier to read:

Magic D, if you click on my username and send me an email I'll reply with a link to more pictures you can download.
Francesca Drake

Trad climber
  Jun 26, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Wow great shots Thanks for the pictures. ;D

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Jun 26, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
Welcome Magic D! Your son is an amazing climber for sure but more importantly he seems like a genuinely good guy the few times I have bumped into him.

Congrats on Mathes BTW spectacular and fun route.
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
  Jun 26, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
Probably be another generation if ever. Great pictures, the Fet.

Survival, nita and I were just lucky this weekend to be around to give Han's a high 5 compliment for his and Alex's outstanding achievement of focus and endurance.

Obligatory Hans and Survival Hero shot
Obligatory Hans and Survival Hero shot
Credit: Timid TopRope

That Survival can hold his own on the guitar in a jam as well. We might have a house band at facelift if the unconfirmed early yellow pines registrars get confirmation or reinstated.

  Jun 26, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
petah, great location for a video . Historic, thanks for sharing that. Must have been awesome to catch that scene run right past you:-) You guys looked like you were doing pretty nice on the route as well.


Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Jun 29, 2012 - 01:20am PT
Bumpitty bump for a way honed send
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