Trip Report
FA of Effervescent Glory (Wi0)
Tuesday January 31, 2012 2:15pm
2011-12-30 - Ice climbing Tenaya Lake. Effervescent Glory (Wi0 - W...
2011-12-30 - Ice climbing Tenaya Lake. Effervescent Glory (Wi0 - Walkable ice 0)
Credit: PellucidWombat

Sometimes one just needs a different perspective on climbing in order to see the potential for new route. The Chief helped me realize a new way of looking at ice climbing during an exchange of ideas on SummitPost as to whether steepness had anything to do with the difficulty of an ice climb.

What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.
 The Chief

In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).



It was a cold December morning and the ice had formed thick on the route. For safety I made an anchor of two stacked logs on shore, in the event that the ice failed me. Eventually I ran out of rope, and in order to push the route to a logical conclusion on a nice lake ledge, I risked life and limb, cast off the rope, and soloed through the final ice bulge crux.

Scoping out the route the night before on ice skates.
Scoping out the route the night before on ice skates.
Credit: PellucidWombat

The climb was a great workout, and a big success.

Har-duh ice climbing
Har-duh ice climbing
Credit: PellucidWombat

Now be warned that although I've conservatively rated the climb at Wi0, the rating is a bit sandbagged and is not without dangers and a need to exercise caution.

I dunno Mark, that ice was pretty slippery! Wi4 at least!And I [fell] on my butt at least once!

Another brave adventurer had this to add:
I nearly pulled some muscles trying to not fall on my ass. It's best to stretch out properly before attempting the lake! Also I think the psychological duress of the loud cracking and whoomping sounds should be taken into consideration when rating walkable ice.

If you listened closely, the lake did make some interesting booming noises each time my pick slammed into the ice.

Credit: PellucidWombat

Where to next? The potential of where our climbing can take us is only limited by our imaginations. There are all sorts of potential for other climbing ascents rated without regard to steepness.

  Trip Report Views: 5,181
PellucidWombat
About the Author
PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jan 31, 2012 - 02:28pm PT


Keep your heels down Wombat! Looking a little 'prancer' in this recumbent shot.

DMT
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
True. My footwork could use some improvement. I'm really not staying off my arms too well.
Silver

Gym climber
  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
SIK TR
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
I really hope The Chief is very proud!
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
HAHAHA awesome. The Chief is such a d#@&%e.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Proud. You fired that line with no bivy?
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
I was tempted to take a nap partway through, but I pushed on.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
Wombad, youz one bad AZZ muthr fukr!
Way to own it!
-E
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Jan 31, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
That was me, I fell on my butt. I also feel on my butt.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
I figured I'd keep you anonymous to protect the innocent. :-D
YoungGun

climber
North
  Jan 31, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
Wow, sure didn't place many screws on that... :)
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
  Jan 31, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Awesome TR! I started that post on Summitpost and was amazed to see it move where it did.

Congrats on your new line. (I really like the name BTW).
RoryKuykendall

Mountain climber
Telluride, CO
  Jan 31, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Well played. But those moves look a little painful bro.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jan 31, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
Fun!
Gene

climber
  Jan 31, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
I am so pleased that all that the training and determination exhibited on the Geochronology Wall has paid off so splendidly.

I just hope you aren’t even thinking about Pothole Dome alpine style. The potential glory is not even close to being worth the struggle.

g
Jeremy

climber
  Jan 31, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
THE CHIEF is such a d#@&%e cuz he is so short n sh#t...

Just sayin...
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
  Jan 31, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Consensus seems to be the chief IS a d#@&%e.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Jan 31, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
I did notice one rookie mistake at 2:12, when the rope got looped behind your leg; you fall when it's like that, man, and your'e inverted and airborne all at the same time...scary sh*t! But you recovered nicely and that last, ropeless dash to the finish was inspirational.
Nastia

Ice climber
Portland, OR
  Jan 31, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
Sick sendage Mark! So proud of you.

But keep your focus on the plane-to-plane project:
Hoodie, North Face
Hoodie, North Face
Credit: Nastia

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 31, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Love it, Mark.
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jan 31, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Oh man what huevos climbing with an anchor of two stacked logs! I salute you. Thanks for the fun TR
Zander

climber
  Jan 31, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
So sweet!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Jan 31, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
And about those "enhancements"...

This thread belongs right up there with "Wings of Plywood", and the one about hooking at lunch hour at school.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2012 - 12:01am PT
I'll have you know I did that hooking on my lunch break from work! ;-)

I do recommend an insulated cup for the "enhancements" in climbing this route.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Feb 1, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
I admire the purity of style, eschewing the reliance on aid like crampons. The next ethical evolution is growing long fingernails and ditching the axes.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Aren't clothes considered aid, too?
Silver

Gym climber
  Feb 1, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
I do recommend an insulated cup

Thats awesome how many noobs would buy an insulated cup for ice climbing?

Tag line: Never freeze yer balls off again.

The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
  Feb 1, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Yeah, much harder than Wi0.

Very deceiving, since it's not steep...
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Feb 1, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
Thats awesome how many noobs would buy an insulated cup for ice climbing?

Tag line: Never freeze yer balls off again.

Coincidentally this was made with the skin of a lucid wombat!


Or they could just go old school like cod fishers...


But I think Terl nailed it (haha)


So many choices for the icelaying barbarian!

DMT

DMT
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
Looks like the Terl outfit would keep your head warm too. It's cold down in those lake-filled valleys. It looks like they even have a head start on the ice tool replacements :-D
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Feb 1, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
Knarly dude.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Feb 1, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
DOOODE! I am so in awe of your dry & sick humour----and --like totally consumed with envy!

I did turn the sound-track off.

Sorry, but classical music was needed for that endevour.

Thank you for amusing us!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2012 - 02:05am PT
Perhaps "Ride of the Valkyries" will be in the next video? I can think of some good types of climbing for that music :-)
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Feb 2, 2012 - 09:24am PT
Yes the battle hymn. I can hear the parking lot conversation now...

"Why do you guys climb with codpieces?"

"So we don't get our balls froze off!"

Apackofice Now.

DMT
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 20, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
From Bruce Kay:

Pellucid Wombat, Sorry for the thread drift but I was wondering if you could provide a bit more beta on the Tenaya Lake FWA (Incidentally, somehow this has missed the radar of the alpine intelligentsia - perhaps something to do with all that brou haha in patagonia). I'm just loading up the van to burn down and nab the second ascent ( I hope)

1) In your estimation what was more dangerous, crossing the highway or avoiding collision with mother and pram? How often are you likely to encounter that particular mother or for that matter, any other?

2) Again, not to belabor the point but don't you think rapping the route would be less hazardous than navigating the shore line? (unless its windy, or too many prams and mothers) Or by walking, do you mean you actually walked straight back down your line of ascent?

3) Finally, would you think a solo to be within the realm of the possible?

Once again good effort. It shows where a little visionary "outside the box" thinking can take you (No offense! I mean this in a positive way). I hope you don't mind but i sent your video off to Alpinist. Nice job on that retaining wall by the way!


1) Definitely the pram. If that thing got loose from the mother, you'd have to move pretty deftly to avoid getting hit!

2) The extreme angle of the route makes rappels tricky. You'd either need some tension assistance or down-lead on rappel. I found walking sideways from the route to be the easiest way off as that was the shortest line back to shore. Just take care with the shoreline - the crumpled ice could be tricky!

3) Did you not see the final bit of soloing to reach the ledge? The route can certainly be soloed by the truly twisted.
bparry

Trad climber
Branford, CT
  Feb 20, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
Apparently, still awaiting a leashless ascent, folks...
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Feb 26, 2012 - 11:55am PT
Wow.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 26, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
N ice route.

I might even have a shot at that one!
part-time communist

Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
  Feb 26, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Have you ever gotten laid?



LOL
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Feb 26, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
Was whiskey involved in this project???

Awesome send!!!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Feb 26, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
That first screw looked like nothing but mental pro.

Way proud bro.
charlie.elverson

Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
  Feb 27, 2012 - 12:07am PT
super sick FA. You should really meet up with these guys. You could do some sick new routes together!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0tDU37q2M
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Jan 25, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Anyone been out to do a second ascent of this thing this year? I think the grade needs verification.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 25, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
I tried it with my kids belaying me last year, but I bailed before I could get in my first piece of pro. Too sketchy.

Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
  Jan 25, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
I tried this a few years ago. Had a leader fall after too much to drink and dinged my tailbone pretty bad. a couple years of rehab and a persistent goal to return and CONQUER it was the only thing that kept me going. Last winter season, I free soloed it. Conditions were a bit fatter than your ascent so the crux was a bit easier. Car to car in 28 minutes. It was a transformational moment for me as I reached the upper banks and took in the view. Thank You ! Your beta was helpful and I could not have done it with out your vision to open up such a difficult yet rewarding climb.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
  Jan 25, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
I am surprised you did not place some Screamers along with screws. Or was there one in the pram?
Sick TR, way to get after it!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 25, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Oh, I most definitely placed Screamers (red). I wasn't going to take any chances on this route!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 26, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Hope you took a rest day, you earned it!!!!!!!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jan 27, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
you got me on this one,,your visonary insight is without piers,,really,,,,
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Feb 7, 2013 - 12:18am PT
I am so sorry I missed this first time around. What a brilliant assent.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Feb 7, 2013 - 12:38am PT
You f*#king kids who think you're so hot.

We did that thing before you were born. And we didn't have any of your fancy modern gadgets like crampons or those tiny little sissy "ice axes" you use. Me and me mates were capable of proper ice-work and chopped steps the whole way. Although I will admit that because it was slightly steep, we did use slater's picks rather than our usual long axes for the overhead cutting. Not entirely sporting, I'll admit, but moreso than this nonsense with nylon ropes and bespoke equipment.

Right, and we didn't go telling every Tom, Dick, and Harry about it, neither. Kept it to ourselves, we did.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Feb 7, 2013 - 12:42am PT
chopped steps????? So that was you asswholes that wrecked the skating! What were you drinking? Rye?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Feb 7, 2013 - 01:08am PT
What were you drinking? Rye?

Rye? Well that's about what one has come to expect from you colonials. But of course we weren't drinking rye. Whatever that is. Wrapped a small flask of hot malt whisky up in me sporran, as usual.

Reminds me though of one expedition we undertook to your mountains. For some reason we thought it might be entertaining to bring along a local and show him what real climbing was about. Stupid bugger brought along a blended whiskey. A blended whiskey. Couldn't believe it. We dropped him and his bloody blend into a crevasse.
matisse

climber
  Feb 7, 2013 - 01:43am PT
so sorry I missed this the first time.
respect -----> fist bump.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Feb 7, 2013 - 01:50am PT
Sorry about the Rye comment. I know that is hitting a bit below the belt but if you are going to chop steps in a lake I thought you must also have been ice fishing - thus the rye.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 15, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
GNAR
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go