Trip Report
Evolution Traverse, Car-to-Car, Sub 24hrs
Wednesday June 25, 2014 4:40pm
On June 23rd, I soloed the full Evolution Traverse car-to-car in less than 24 hours. I think I am the first person to do so, though it wouldn't surprise me if someone else already has. If you want to know exactly how long it took, skip to the end, but otherwise I think that the full story is much cooler than the numbers alone would suggest. Sorry for the lack of photos, to save weight I didn't bring a camera.

    

"I began at the first hint of dawn and spent all day on this great spine of granite, coming closer than ever to the ideal traverse. To climb for miles and never leave the skyline." - Peter Croft

I first read Croft's description of the Evolution while leafing through his classic guide The Good, The Great, and the Awesome. It was the summer of 2010, and I'd just come down from my first real "alpine" climb and summit: the U-Notch Couloir on North Palisade. My buddy Zach and I drove south on 395 toward Lone Pine, the hills and summits of the Sierra passing by outside my window. I closed my eyes and tried to imagine what it would be like to be on that great spine of granite, traversing for miles and miles. At the time, the Evolution Traverse seemed mind-boggling huge. 8 miles of technical ridge traversing? 5.9 free soloing? 9 summits above 13,000ft? Hell, it took Croft himself three tries to complete the whole traverse in a push. Surely this was not something for mere mortals to attempt...

And yet, only a few years later, I had achieved immortality. In August 2013, my friend Matt and I on-sight soloed the Evolution Traverse in ~14hrs from Darwin Bench to the summit of Mt. Huxley. Needless to say, stoke was high, and I vividly remember watching one of the more incredible sunsets of my life illuminate the Evolution Basin as we walked back to our camp. We were both worked from the experience, and as we hobbled over Lamarck Col back to our car the next day I told Matt, "That was awesome, but my knees are f&*cked. I am NEVER going to climb that thing in a day again."

Like any good alpinist, however, I quickly forgot about the suffering and my promise to stay away. In the weeks after we climbed the traverse I had looked more into different speed records on the route, and I learned that while a small handful of people had climbed it in a car-to-car push, no one had done so in less than 24 hours. By the end of last summer, the best effort so far was Vitaliy's super proud 27hr C2C onsight push. It seemed ridiculous, maybe even impossible, but I started to wonder: could I do it in less than a day? Months passed, different climbing trips came and went, but the thought stayed in the back of my mind.

In early May I drove south from Seattle with plans to spend most of the summer climbing in California. May in the Valley was an incredible time, filled with good climbs and good friends, but the towering walls began to feel claustrophobic and soon left me dreaming of alpine ridgelines and endless vistas. The mountains were calling. After a trip up Zodiac I developed some biceps tendonitis in both shoulders, and that seemed like as good a sign as anything to rest my arms and head to the hills. In early June I moved from Camp 5 up to the high country.

From the beginning I knew that I wanted to do the Evolution, car-to-car, in under 24 hours. Was it possible? I still didn't know, but I wanted to try. If I wanted to have a decent chance at all, however, I knew I needed to get acclimated and fit. Charging alpine ridges is much different from storming big walls or even big free climbs, so I went to work. In the three weeks leading up to the traverse I soloed, car-to-car: Cathedral Peak; Matthes Crest; the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse; the East Ridge and North Buttress of Bear Creek Spire; and the Temple-Gayley-Sill traverse via the Sunribbon Arete. I also spent 4 days climbing at The Incredible Hulk, and cragged and bouldered in Tuolumne Meadows. Life is good on the Eastside!

Finally, on the evening of the 22nd, feeling acclimatized, rested, and psyched, I pulled my van into the North Lake parking lot. I spent a couple hours prepping gear and making final decisions on what to bring. A harness and belay device? No, a double-length sling and single locker would do. Beer to stash at Darwin Bench? Hell yes. A helmet? No. Crampons? Yes. And so on and so forth. By 9pm I was satisfied with my choices and tried to get a few hours of sleep. I rolled restlessly for what seemed like forever, and even pushed back my alarm from 12:30 to 1:30. I'm still not sure if I ever really slept.

[2:12am]
I pressed Play on my iPhone and the opening blasts of Rage Against the Machine's "Killing in the Name" coursed through my ears as I stomped away from the trailhead. Some people might not like the idea of listening to music in the mountains, thereby "drowning out" the sounds of nature. Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of birds chirping, wind blowing through trees, bubbling streams, etc. But for big solo days, I turn that s**t up to 11. You gotta fuel the psyche, and as I wove my way up the switchbacks toward Lower Lamarck Lake, my carefully selected mix of pounding rock and gangsta rap blasting in my ears had me STOKED.

[3:09am]
I crossed the outlet below Upper Lamarck Lake and tried to follow the meandering trail up the steep hill rising out of the blackness in front of me. Despite my best efforts I completely lost the trail, and not wanting to waste time backtracking, decided I'd just blaze my own path up the slope. I was soon scrambling big, loose talus, and started to think I might have screwed myself. Getting lost less than an hour into attempt to set a speed record is never a good tactic. I started pulling some legit 4th class moves and was even thinking about heading back down to find the trail, when I spied a traversing ledge system out right. I followed this for a ways, and after a bit more 3rd class upward scrambling, pulled up onto the familiar broad, sandy plateau that marks the way to Lamarck Col. Thank god. I continued up snow fields and sandy trails above.

[4:32am]
I clambered over Lamarck Col (12,900') and the faint dawn light on the horizon illuminated the hulking outlines of Mt. Darwin, Mt. Mendal, and Mt. Gould across the valley in front of me. Even this stretch of the traverse seems huge, even though it's only about 1/3 of the full ridge. I couldn't wait to be up there.

[5:56am]
After leaving some food and beer at Darwin Bench, and trading out my trail runners for a pair of sticky rubber approach shoes, I started up the gully that marks the beginning of the traverse. Back at the parking lot I'd hemmed and hawed for awhile trying to decide whether or not to bring a pair of aluminum crampons, as it seemed like a lot of weight for something I'd only use once or twice. I'd brought them, somewhat begrudgingly. But now, as the gully steepend and filled with hard, icy snow, I was happy to be able to strap on the spikes. Damn that gully is long! It took forever to reach the ridge.

[9:26am]
In the first third of the traverse it is easy to "get lost" amongst the towers. Not literally, as the way forward is always fairly easy to see, but more in the sense that you don't really know which peak you're climbing. You're surrounded by pillars and corridors of stone and exposure, and there's not much to do except keep running the gauntlet. As I passed the 3hr mark, I had no idea whether I was on Mendel or Darwin. I had already climbed through a number of steepish sections, and I really, really hoped I was on Darwin. If not, well, I was in trouble. My buddy Zac West has a really good beta sheet for the traverse, and he calls Mendel the 20% mark. I did some quick mental math as I scrambled up steep 4th class and low 5th ledges, and realized that if I was only on Mendel, I was on pace for 16+hrs on the ridge. There was no way I could still break 24hrs with this kind of time. I figured the slowest I could climb the ridge and still make it was 14hrs. I scrabbled up a few more steep sections and up onto a flat summit plateau. I looked south and saw the even larger summit plateau of Mt. Darwin still far away. F#*k. My heart sank and I heard a voice in the back of my mind tell me, "You can't make it. You're too slow." My eyes scanned past Darwin and fixated on a peak way, way out in the distance. Mt. Huxley. The final summit of the traverse. It was so far away that it seemed silly that I was even trying to get there.

If I had been trying to onsight the traverse I might have bailed at this point. But I knew the road ahead. I knew that I had had similar feelings in this spot a year earlier, and we'd still made it with plenty of time. Looking at the whole ridge it seemed impossible, but just looking at the next section to Darwin I could see the line I would take and knew I could climb through it quickly. One step at a time, I thought. I sped across the summit of Mendel with increased urgency and climbed faster as I wove through gendarmes toward Darwin.

[10:18am]
The summit block on Darwin is definitely one of the coolest features on the route. About 10'x10' on top, it is vertical or overhanging on all sides. I pulled up the exposed moves and sat down on the granite sofa. This was the first time I'd truly stopped since leaving Darwin Bench and I needed a break. I'd made up some time since Mendel and arrived at Darwin in 4:20. (For the record, I'd say that Mendel is more like 25-30% of the whole thing, and Darwin is spot-on around 35%.) I spent about 20min on the summit eating, drinking, and reading the tattered copy of On the Origins of Species. Someone should take up a new copy soon. I eyed the steep and exposed down climbing beyond Darwin and was glad I'd done this part before. This was the only section that I felt like I was truly taking risks by soloing, and I carefully picked my way past precariously perched blocks and many fixed rappel stations. I pulled out my rope for one 15m rappel in this part, but other than that I free-soloed everything.

[12:30pm]
After motoring past the Golden Triangle (so cool!) I'd made it to Peak 13,332' in 6.5hrs since leaving Darwin Bench. The climbing in this section is definitely some of the best on the entire route. A lot of true crack climbing and knife-edge traversing. At one point I deviated a bit too much from the correct line and ended up down climbing some pretty steep and flaky 5.9 cracks, but it wasn't too bad. I was starting to feel the fatigue in my knees and thighs, but I knew I was moving faster and was now on pace to do the ridge in ~13hrs. I popped an extra strength Tylenol and headed toward Haeckel. For the next few hours I stopped only briefly. The climbing is much easier in general from 13,332 to Warlow, but this section also contains some of the worst rock on the entire traverse, particularly right before Haeckel and mid-way between Haeckel and Fiske. There are very few parts of the traverse where you can truly let your guard down. In some of the flatter sections I actually willed myself to run along the ridge, and even on the technical parts I consciously focused on moving as fast as possible. It wasn't comfortable, but then again, I thought, I'm not here to be comfortable. I thought about my friend Hayden, who had once wanted to retreat off a climb in Pakistan in bad conditions, but who continued when his partner told him, "No. We knew it would be this way. This is why we are here. We must continue." I knew it would be this way. I knew I was going to have to suffer. I continued.

[5:20pm]
By the time I dragged myself onto the summit of Warlow I was definitely feeling all the miles and hours of exertion. Descending off of Fiske I'd felt my quads in both legs start to seize up, and had to stop for a bit to massage them back to life. I personally think Warlow is one of the sleeper cruxes of the entire traverse. The climbing isn't particularly hard (it's actually pretty cool low 5th) but it is fairly sustained and there are so many goddamn false summits! So many times I wanted to sit down on a ledge and just take a break, but I knew I couldn't stop. I knew that I was never, ever going to try to do this again, and I couldn't stand to bear the thought of putting in so much effort and not succeeding. There was not going to be another time. There was no tomorrow. I had to give it everything I had right now.

[6:29pm]
I vaulted a few more granite blocks and pulled up onto the summit of Mt. Huxley. Whew! I looked in amazement back across the Evolution basin at the entire great granite spine I had just traversed. Those who have climbed the route will understand what I mean when I say that the whole thing seems even more improbable after you've done it. It's just so damn LONG. I'd climbed from the Darwin Bench to the summit of Huxley in 12:33 and felt pretty psyched on my time. Even though it had hurt a few times, I actually had a LOT of fun surfing that huge granite wave, and I had a huge smile on my face. I took a few minutes to soak in the view and the experience, snapped a couple of silly summit photos, and headed down. I had 7.5 hours to beat the 24hr mark. Walking alone through the Evolution Basin as the setting sun covered the walls around me in golden light was a wonderful experience.

[9:25pm]
Back at the Darwin Bench I ravenously ripped open my cache. I'm not sure what I was more excited to see, the sandwich and the beers, or the clean, dry pair of socks. My feet were starting to feel pretty worked and my socks were damp from sweat. I could feel a couple of blisters forming. I was very glad I'd left a pair of comfortable trail runners at the cache to replace my approach shoes. I turned off my headlamp for a bit and enjoyed the silence of the mountains at night, a kaleidoscope of stars above my head. I pounded one of my beers, popped a Percocet, and headed off up the canyon. To my surprise I was still feeling really good at this point (all those other c2c missions were paying off!) and with 4.5hrs to complete a section that only took 3:20 on the way in, I was very confident that I had it in the bag. (cue the Scooby Doo "ruh roh" voice)

[11:03pm]
I stared up at the hill leading to Lamarck Col, even though I couldn't see a damn thing. My headlamp illuminated the first 20 yards or so in front of me, but after that it might as well have been a black hole. The beer and Percocet were doing wonders for the soreness and pain in my legs and feet, but I think they were starting to impair my mental faculties. I was having trouble making decisions on which direction to head, and my balance felt off. For the first time all day I ate s#*t hopping some boulders just before the hill. Without any moonlight I couldn't tell exactly where the tiny notch of the col was, but I figured I'd just follow the cairns up and over. No problem, right? I spied a stack of rocks ahead and plodded off up the slope.

About 20min later I realized it had been quite some time since I'd seen a cairn. I looked around hoping to see one. Nothing. I turned off my headlamp to gauge my position against the ridgeline above, but I could hardly tell where the rocks stopped and the sky began. For the first time in many hours, doubt began to creep back in. I truly did not know if I should head further left or further right. I went left. I picked my way up steepening stacked blocks, and I knew I wasn't on the right path. Nothing looked familiar, it was way too steep. But I knew I was eating away at my time, and the thought of retracing my steps back down the slope was unthinkable. This is so f*#ked, I thought. I kept looking for some trace of passage, a cairn, a footprint, anything, but each time my headlamp scanned back and forth there was nothing to be seen. I pushed onward and after what seemed like forever I finally came to the crest of the ridge. I turned off my headlamp and peered into the murky blackness below. After a moment my eyes adjusted enough to see that I'd come up the hill about 300 yards too far to the left of the col itself. I briefly thought about traversing the ridge over to the col, but I could see a number of gendarme-type features in the way and didn't want to waste any more time going in the wrong direction. The lizard brain was starting to take over. I looked straight down at the slope below me. I could see steep snow and a couple of rock bands, but it seemed like I could do a bit of down climbing and traversing that would deposit me into a broad snow slope that led into the basin below. I pulled out my crampons and started down the steep, icy crust. Quickly I came to a rock band, but I was too lazy to take off my spikes. How bad could it be? Well, let's just say that the next five minutes involved some shenanigans that I hope to never repeat, including hanging from a single hand-jam with my feet kicking at nothing but air. "This is so f*#ked," I said out loud to myself multiple times. I made sure to take off my crampons at the next rock band (much safer) and stumbled down the easy snow slope below.

[12:49am]
I ripped my crampons off my shoes and looked at the clock. F&*k. I had 6-7 miles and 3,200' to descend, and less than an hour and a half to do it. I did some quick mental math. F&*k. If I wanted to beat 24hrs, there was only one way it was going to happen. And boy did I want it. Bad. They say cocaine is a hell of a drug. Well, desire is a hell of an emotion. And so I cinched down my pack straps, tied my shoelaces tight, and started to run.

I pounded across the sandy plateau, my headlamp sweeping the ground ahead in search of the trail. There! A footprint! I turned eastward on the path and started running faster. Maybe a little too fast. I'd lost the path almost as fast as I'd found it. I slowed down and traversed back and forth until I regained the faint line in the sand. When possible, I ran, when not, I just tried to move as fast as possible. Snow patches warmed by the previous day's sun slowed my progress as I post-holed downhill. My headlamp had grown noticeably fainter and I lost the path many times. I trusted my intuition and luckily found it again each time. I kept running.

[1:45am]
I crossed the logjam at the outlet below Lower Lamarck Lake and stopped for the first time since the lake below Lamarck Col. I checked the clock. I had 27 minutes. "You've got this," I said out loud to myself, and took off again down the rock-strewn path. There was no more pain in my feet. No more ache in my knees. The sound of my own ragged breathing filled my ears as I willed my legs to move faster. Trees and boulders flew past in a dim blur. I wove down the switchbacks, nearly tripping over roots and rocks in the path. Turn after turn after turn. How many more could there be? No time to stop and worry. Just keep moving.

And then I was suddenly out of the forest, across the footbridge, and sprinting the final few hundred yards. It was going to be close. I careened past dark, quiet campsites, their residents sound asleep and blissfully unaware of my race against the clock. A reflection. A car. The parking lot. I ran to the trailhead sign, threw off my pack, and grabbed my phone to check the time.

2:10am.

I'd made it. Just barely, with less than two minutes to spare. But still, I'd made it. I collapsed onto the ground next to my pack, turned off my headlamp, stared up at the stars twinkling high above and chuckled to myself at the absurdity of it all.

They call it the Evolution, but I think I devolved.  By the time I hit...
They call it the Evolution, but I think I devolved. By the time I hit Huxley I was feeling more ape than human.
Credit: The Dak

--

Having climbed the Evolution twice now, both times in a push, I don't think I'll be heading back to do it again any time soon. That said, it has to be one of the coolest traverses out there, and if you haven't done it yet you absolutely should. I believe it is FAR easier than most people make it out to be, and I wouldn't be surprised to see more C2C attempts happening in the near future. I certainly think that it would be easy for someone to beat my time, as I wouldn't consider myself especially "fit," I got lost twice, and I stopped many times to eat and drink throughout the day. I can easily envision an acclimated, fit person doing sub 22hrs or even sub 21hrs. However, I still think the "best" way to do it would be to bivy on the ridge. It is so beautiful out there that I really wish I could have spent a night up on the spine. I'd probably remember more of it this way too. The full traverse is so big that even after doing it twice, by cramming so much climbing into such a small period of time there are large portions that I cannot recall at all. I can remember moments or positions, but between them I have no memory of the climbing. Strange.

Lastly, just in case my account makes it seem like it wasn't too hard, I will say that I am completely and utterly worked right now (I'm writing this the day after the climb). My palms feel like they've been raked across broken glass, both feet have a number of blisters, my ankles hurt if I turn them at all, and it's actually difficult just walking around. I'm definitely not wearing anything but sandals for a couple of days. Doing the C2C mission was likely the hardest I've ever pushed myself physically on a climb.

The summer is young. The mountains are waiting. Get after it!

--

The Numbers:
Miles hiked: 26ish
Miles of technical ridge traversing: 8ish?
Hardest climbing: 5.9ish
Elevation gain/loss: 15,000+ ft

The Times:
C2C total: 23:58
Trailhead (TH) to Lamarck Col: 2:20
TH to Darwin Bench (DB): 3:20
DB to Mendall: 3:30
DB to Darwin: 4:20
DB to 13,332: 6:30
DB to Haeckel: 8:00
DB to Fiske: 10:07
DB to Huxley: 12:33
JMT back to DB: 1:30
DB to base of Lamarck Col hill: 1:14
Going back up over Lamarck Col: 2:00
Base of Lamarck Col back to TH: 1:28
Time resting/eating/not moving: at least 1:30

Gear:
(1) 30m 8mm rope
(1) doublength runner
(1) locking carabiner
(1) pair aluminum crampons
(1) pair trailrunners
(1) pair sticky rubber approach shoes
(3) pairs socks
(1) R1 hoody
(1) light rain shell
(1) synthetic vest
(1) Cilogear 30L pack
(1) pair sunglasses
(1) tube sunscreen
(1) iPhone & headphones
(1) pair trekking poles
(1) 1L Nalgene
(1) 2L drom

Food:
(2) cheese and avocado bagel sandwiches
(5) Clif bars
(3) packs Clif shot blocks
(2) LARABARs
(1) small bag trail mix
(20) Reed's ginger chews
2L worth of electrolyte beverage mix
(2) Modelos


  Trip Report Views: 4,190
The Dak
About the Author
The Dak is a trad climber from Seattle, WA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jun 25, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
Dang!

Glad you didn't meat bomz the rig!
thebravecowboy

climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
  Jun 25, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
Congratulations!
Bob Harrington

climber
Bishop, California
  Jun 25, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
Nice work! Totally with you on the iMusic.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Jun 25, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
time to go for the California 14ers record
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
  Jun 25, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
No camera but you had an Iphone which has a camera?
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 25, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
Haha well that didn't take long...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 25, 2014 - 06:57pm PT
Respect!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 25, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
Awesome!

Great read, had me rootin for you!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jun 25, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
No camera but you had an Iphone which has a camera?


Maybe he's like me and between all the hidden porn apps running on his iPhone and setting his phone to update his social network on a second by second basis, his phone camera lasts for all of about 5 shots before shutting down.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jun 25, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
No offense Dak, but without proper documentation your effort is only of value to yourself. Nice equipment list though!

You need a gps app for your iphone when you go to shatter your record.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Jun 25, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Awesome! I think we may have met while you were descending after the thunderbolt sill traverse. You were psyched to get to to your stashed beer and said you were doing it car to car. ( this was last week on the 18th). Did you make it in 12hrs C2C? Cheers

Matt
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Jun 25, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
Truly fantastic work. What an amazing accomplishment. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 25, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
Vitaliy is going to be pissed

Vitaliy is actually really happy for Austin! There are not many people out there that I can cry about the body shattering experience of doing Evo in a push. :) I told my other friend about Austin's feat and his immediate response was, "are you gonna try to do it faster?" I told him "I would rather climb with Austin than compete against him!" FML, the only reason I did the Evo c2c was because I had no long weekends available. I planned to do it with a friend earlier in the summer, but we got shut down by a freak storm before we reached Lamarck col, than I went to Peru and was running out of time after I returned. In late August it was either go car to car or wait till the next year. So I worked 5 days, drove to the trailhead and went for it after failing to fall asleep for several hours. I was not after some record or to impress a few dudes from the internet, even though I do admit I was fairly proud to pull it off. If our 'sport' was filled with numerous females that cared, maybe I would want to break records, but now I am super happy for Austin's achievement. From reading his report it seems he did it for all the right reasons. Not because he wanted to break some record, but because he wanted to see if it is possible for HIM to do it in under 24 hours. So my hat is off. Awesome report.

And I would not doubt that he really did do it, Kalimon. The guy seems honest and a really competent climber.

PS: Austin, post more reports and take more photos. You do a lot of cool stuff, all the time. We on this forum would love to hear about all of it, not just mind-blowing feats!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jun 25, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
(psssst: Vitaliy's ethics are pretty questionable. Dude's a violent kick boxer! And he does a woman's job! Most importantly, he arranges trips and posts TRs like he's getting paid, and pisses me off!)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 26, 2014 - 12:31am PT
Inspiring stuff! Thank you for the blow by blow. Really enjoyable read.



Beta note to self. Stash beer & percs at Lamarck col when doing evolution in a push, not Darwin bench :-)
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 26, 2014 - 12:48am PT
Really proud effort man. Thanks for a great write up. You did a nice job of letting us inside your head. Somehow we're "friends" on facebook......must have some mutual friends/acquaintances. Hope to meet you in real life out thee in the high country someday.

Again, thanks for sharing the stoke. The Darwin Bench is one of the magical places on the planet eh? I hope to return soon.


Scott Jett
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 26, 2014 - 01:14am PT
And I second Vitaliy's request for contributing to this site more! You have mad camera skillz and your stoke is obvious. This place has been waning a bit over the past few months but a few motivated and willing posters could help bring it back to life.

Besides. I'm tired of Vitaliy's TRs. He never gets bad weather, never fails to reach a summit and half of his photos are out of focus.
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 26, 2014 - 08:26am PT
...I wouldn't consider myself especially "fit,"...

No of course not. You're probably coming off the couch!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
  Jun 26, 2014 - 08:50am PT
The tl;dr here is: nice send! Glad someone is out doing this stuff because I'm not.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Jun 26, 2014 - 08:59am PT
Very nice read.
Awesome achievement too, even if it would have took more than a day.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 26, 2014 - 09:02am PT
No pictures, no pictures, didn't happen, HA!!
peter croft

climber
  Jun 26, 2014 - 09:16am PT
Great story and a helluva day!
A few things - that quote of mine is dead on about staying on the crest all day so I don't get the starting in a gully thing. If you read a bit further the guidebook spells out the start is where the ridge nose dives into the dirt. The only gully I saw was around to the left and would have short-cutted out a bunch of cool ridge crest climbing. This is useful beta not just for following the line but also if you want to leave behind the crampons as you wouldn't want them anywhere else.
In the link to Zac's Useful Beta there's a reference to a Mount Gould at the beginning of the traverse. The only one I know of is 50 miles away so it'd probably be good to blow that name off the list.
As well, Zac mentions up to 10 rappels (?!). I didn't rappel anywhere and although some of the cruxes were the downclimbing they were all very reasonable. One other thing that worked for me regarding water: on the summit plateau of Darwin I heard the gurgling of water but couldn't see any. So I dug 3 or 4 holes in the sand and relaxed with some snacks. After about 15 minutes the holes had filled up with water and I recharged my bottles enough for the rest of the day.
To sum up - If you stay on the crest from the beginning you won't need crampons. If you don't mind down soloing a bit of 5.8/5.9 you won't need rope, harness etc. and if you don't mind digging in the sand for water on Darwin you likely won't have to drop off the ridge to refill.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Jun 26, 2014 - 09:52am PT
No offense Dak, but without proper documentation your effort is only of value to yourself. Nice equipment list though!

Do we question Alex's accomplishments when he does mind-bending solos?

khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
  Jun 26, 2014 - 10:02am PT
Sorry, you are not the first person to do sub-24, but congrats on a super proud effort!
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Jun 26, 2014 - 10:04am PT
Ah so according to Croft this was not a full ascent of the traverse as Dak skipped the initial part of the ridge! Vitaly still has a chance.

Still, doesn't take away from a great effort and day in the mountains. Sort of makes me think of the "best FA style" thread. There are many ways and styles to do climbs and the mountains allow for even more variations. The important thing is to be honest and let the achievement stand for itself. There will always be someone later that can outdo whatever is done today.

Nice read Dak and sounds like you had a grand adventure.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Jun 26, 2014 - 10:05am PT
Exciting!!

What's for dessert, the Sawtooth Ridge C2C?!

Thanks for the stoke!!

W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jun 26, 2014 - 10:38am PT
Sweet adventure! Thanks for taking us along. Cool to see Croft chime in, as well!
The Dak

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2014 - 11:01am PT
Muchas gracias a todos!

Maybe he's like me and between all the hidden porn apps running on his iPhone and setting his phone to update his social network on a second by second basis, his phone camera lasts for all of about 5 shots before shutting down.

How did you know???

I think we may have met while you were descending after the thunderbolt sill traverse.

Yeah! You guys were up in Sam Mack area, right? I didn't make 12hrs on that one, but still an awesome day nonetheless!

I told my other friend about Austin's feat and his immediate response was, "are you gonna try to do it faster?" I told him "I would rather climb with Austin than compete against him!"

I concur, let's climb something Vitaliy! We could go back out there and spend some leisurely nights up on the ridge while we watch someone speed past and break both of our records :)

Great story and a helluva day!
A few things - that quote of mine is dead on about staying on the crest all day so I don't get the starting in a gully thing. If you read a bit further the guidebook spells out the start is where the ridge nose dives into the dirt. The only gully I saw was around to the left and would have short-cutted out a bunch of cool ridge crest climbing. This is useful beta not just for following the line but also if you want to leave behind the crampons as you wouldn't want them anywhere else.

Excuse me while I go sweep up the shattered shards of my broken ego.... :) Really cool to see you chime in Peter, thanks for inspiring us all! I was under the assumption it started up that gully/couloir thing, but I guess I was wrong. It wouldn't be the first time that Zac has sandbagged me :) I agree with you on the rappels, the only one I made I probably should have down climbed in retrospect and I could have saved a lot of bulk in the pack.

If going up the gully on the first peak is an asterisk, is it also one to descend the gully on Huxley instead of staying true to the ridge for the final descent? In that case maybe no one has ever actually done the traverse, haha! That's right boys, YOU can still go get the FA!

Sorry, you are not the first person to do sub-24, but congrats on a super proud effort!

Like I said, I suspected as such. Who else has done it?
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
  Jun 26, 2014 - 11:30am PT
Ask around Mammoth or Bishop if you are curious... I won't speak for others.

But so what? Even if you are not the first it's a fantastic accomplishment and you deserve to be very proud of yourself. It's not exactly a large group.

Nice TR btw, it feeds the stoke. If you had taken photos you'd have been late :)
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Jun 26, 2014 - 11:34am PT
Yeah austin that was us in Sam Mack you saw on the way down from sill. We had a fun time reading your entries on the sill summit register. We went to do u notch but thought better and did sill after some rockfall and a party above us. The temple to sill linkup looked nice. Maybe we'll cross paths again sometime. Peace

Matt
Sketch

Trad climber
H-ville
  Jun 26, 2014 - 11:37am PT
Awesome.

Thanks.
The Dak

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2014 - 11:45am PT
Ask around Mammoth or Bishop if you are curious... I won't speak for others.

But so what? Even if you are not the first it's a fantastic accomplishment and you deserve to be very proud of yourself. It's not exactly a large group.

Nice TR btw, it feeds the stoke. If you had taken photos you'd have been late :)

Cool, I respect that. And I agree, So what? It certainly wasn't just about being "the first" but rather seeing if I could even do it. I'm glad you liked the story, thanks for the kind words.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 26, 2014 - 11:47am PT
Badass -- and a very cool thread, even without pictures! I'm particularly appreciative of your attitude in your posts, Dak, and of Peter's chiming in as well. Thanks much.
noriko nakagawa

Trad climber
the bubble, co
  Jun 26, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
Nice work, Austin. More photos next time, please.

There is a big gully on 13,360 if you start at the bench. I took it once on a recon trip, but found it easier to trend up and left from the toe of the ridge.
start of 13,360 from Darwin Bench
start of 13,360 from Darwin Bench
Credit: noriko nakagawa

Agree that 10 raps is excessive. I rapped once b/c I didn't want to downclimb the ~30' hand crack between Darwin & 13,332 with an overnight pack, but everything else was pretty mellow. I personally found it useful to have a tag line to lower my pack around the squeeze I used earlier on this section. 80' was plenty.

Regarding water, Jason L recommended melting snow in a dark container strapped to the outside of my pack. That worked well for me.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jun 26, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
Do we question Alex's accomplishments when he does mind-bending solos?

Of course not . . . Alex is on another plane altogether. I was not trying to disparage Dak's efforts, he sounds like a great guy . . . but when someone makes such claims publicly they should have the evidence to back them up. Does Paul Ryan ring a bell?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 26, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
Props!
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
  Jun 26, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
He didn't make a claim, he said possibly maybe or maybe not.

And most of you wouldn't even consider (or be capable of) doing the route, let alone sub-24. Ya might want to think about that.

Personally, this TR has provided more stoke than anything on this sutpid forum in quite a while, for which I'm quite grateful.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jun 26, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
You're not stoked by the climate change thread? Wat?!

Once again, Killer TR. Maybe I'll give it a go sometime. In a much more pedestrian fashion, of course.
▀ ╬ ě T ă H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Jun 26, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
If you stay on the crest from the beginning you won't need crampons. If you don't mind down soloing a bit of 5.8/5.9 you won't need rope, harness etc. and if you don't mind digging in the sand for water on Darwin you likely won't have to drop off the ridge to refill.
Sounds like Croft is ready to rip it a new as#@&%e too.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jun 27, 2014 - 05:43am PT
Vitaliy is going to be pissed

I pissed myself laughing so hard
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Jun 27, 2014 - 11:21am PT
Holy. Hell.

That's frickin' amazing.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jun 27, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
Quite the feather in your cap. TFPU.
Super bonus input from the man Croft as well.

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
We attempted it this past weekend and had to bail as I came down with AMS and couldn't keep food down.

I'm pretty sure this is the gully that people are referring to and the ridgeline to the right is what Peter Croft states as the official start of the route.

Northwest aspect of Peak 13,360.
Northwest aspect of Peak 13,360.
Credit: PAUL SOUZA
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
Wowza, nicely done!

I wonder what % of people on earth could do this?

Probably a low number

Thanks!
nopantsben

climber
  Jul 2, 2014 - 04:51am PT
i don't think starting up the gully makes a big difference in the overall experience. haven't done the gully, but the "official" (what a horrible word in this context) start is a low angle, easy pillar with a bunch of ramps and little steps.

the good stuff starts when you get to the notch before Mendel, until the notch before Haeckel. If the full things seems big even with a bivy, I'd suggest climbing Darwin from the back side (Ev. Basin) and traversing over to Haeckel, this is also the crux and has the best continuous stretch of climbing. You can descend into the Basin easily after Haeckel.

good job on the single push.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 2, 2014 - 06:48am PT
FACT: Austin sent the Evo in a day.

FACT: He had a blast.

FACT: People of over analyzing one persons very intimate experience in the mountains.

FACT: The Evo is sick no matter what style you choose.
crankster

Trad climber
  Jul 2, 2014 - 07:24am PT
Good stuff!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 2, 2014 - 07:50am PT
Nicely done!
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Jul 2, 2014 - 09:11am PT
Sure he did the Evo in under 24 but did he basejump from the top with a dog?
Barbarian

climber
  Jul 2, 2014 - 09:27am PT

Great TR and send!
I don't see the need for additional documentation. I can accept a post as proof enough.
Congrats!
overwatch

climber
  Jul 2, 2014 - 10:03am PT
Yeah why would he lie? Not like he is going to sky rocket to stardom from it. Sounds like quite a day
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Jul 2, 2014 - 10:27am PT
What a fantastic read... I found myself rooting for you...
Congrats on your stellar accomplishment... thanks for sharing with us!

The summer is young. The mountains are waiting. Get after it!

Love it.

~peace
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
  Jul 2, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
You planned to race and you raced the plan. Congratulations on achieving your goal. I loved all the detail and I was rooting for you to finish under 24 hours.
Maybe next time wait until back at the car for the beer ;)
bootysatva

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
  Jul 6, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
Beer choice may be a disqualified? Think the rules call for Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Two in a snowbank near the end of the climbing.

Strong work master Luke!
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
  Jul 8, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
I was wrong as far as I can tell.

Austin,

I misinterpreted comments made by a friend of mine. We were talking on the phone about something else and he confessed that he had done it the previous day. He didn't elaborate much and somehow I interpreted his time on route as car to car. He is a badass and I didn't even think of it as extraordinary (for him). His humility was such that I didn't feel compelled to ask questions even though I had many. I also somehow interpreted his humble dismissal as meaning others had done it sub-24.

I was wrong and I apologize. His words to me today: "Austin Sladak has the fastest known car-to-car and the only known sub 24"

Again, I can't speak for others (tho maybe that's kinda what I did) but he is in a far better position to know than me. Maybe he or others from the area will chime in. Maybe Peter can say.

In the end it probably means far more just to be one of the very few to do it than to do it the fastest, but hopefully, maybe, it's yours.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 8, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
That's fast!
bpope

climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  Jul 8, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
thanks for the story, the great attitude, and the stoke!
pumpkineater

Trad climber
California
  Jul 8, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 8, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
Nice apology and clarification Khanom.
ochotona

Social climber
The Portal, CA
  Jul 15, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
Hey Dak,
Nice work and thanks for the inspiration. Any reason you skipped signing summit registers? I was up on Darwin on Saturday and didn't see that anyone had signed in since Jerry Dodrill last summer..
Also I'm not sure your water beta will work this summer Peter - I did some digging and all I found was more granite. Did you refill at any point on the ridge or just carry your 3L?
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Jul 15, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
that sounds like a rad adventure! I think I will have to make my way out there one of these days!

TFPU!!!
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