Epinephrine 5.9

 
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Black Velvet Canyon


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
Epinephrine, a TR
Sunday April 1, 2012 12:36am
Epinephrine has been very high on my rock route tick list ever since I first read about it, which was actually not that long ago. Probably back in 2007. Since then, everyone I've asked about the route says basically the same, it's an incredible route, do it if you get the chance.
This was my first trip specifically for climbing outside of California since moving to the state in 2009 and it took some doing to convince my rope gun John to go to RR instead of his usual haunt of J Tree.
My primary goal for the trip was Epi and fortunately for us, I think we picked the best weather day to do it.

We awoke early in the campground to brisk breezes and to be honest, I thought we were going to freeze our asses off. I was thinking cold, shady chimneys and maybe some more of those winds that had damaged both of our tents back at camp. Along the bumpy road the temperature gauge in the car kept dropping and read something like 36 when we left the car. Another group pulled up (of course) as we were making the required Red Rock Rapid Deployment from the trailhead.

The first two pitches are pretty uneventful. The route actually starts off like a well-bolted sport route. I linked the first two and led the next bit leading up to the fabled Epinephrine chimneys.
Edited to add:
After reading another persons TR I recalled that the first actual chimney of this route is very near if not R rated. The holds are there but it's got a bit of an exposed sequence out of the chimney onto the face. The team behind me thought the pitch was a bit spicy and after reflection, I agree.

It's said that even people who despise chimneys or anything approaching something wide, appreciate these chimneys. I can see why. These chimney pitches were by far the best chimneys I've ever done. The sides are slick (for RR) the chimneying methods required are varied and above all, extremely fun. We broke them up into 3 pitches, for us there was a definite crux at the end of the 2nd pitch were we both opted to take the squeeze exit option.
Couple pics from the third pitch of the climb.
Looking up the first chimney pitch.
Looking up the first chimney pitch.
Credit: bergbryce

Near the top of the first chimney pitch (3rd pitch).
Near the top of the first chimney pitch (3rd pitch).
Credit: bergbryce

Fourth pitch, more wide chimney action
Keeps goin'.
Keeps goin'.
Credit: bergbryce

Fifth pitch. This one sports a few bolts and more face holds but still rocks.
The top of this pitch lands you on top of the "Black Pillar" and the unfortunate end of the chimneys.
Sixth pitch.  Super fun.
Sixth pitch. Super fun.
Credit: bergbryce

Post chimney "ecstasy!?"
it was actually pretty good.
it was actually pretty good.
Credit: bergbryce

The route continues up the corner above the tower.

John climbing the "Elephant's Trunk" and ditching the boat anchor #5.
John climbing the "Elephant's Trunk" and ditching the boat anchor #5.
Credit: bergbryce

You can link more pitches here and move really fast. The climbing is steep and fun on oodles of face holds.

Roof move up high on Epinephrine.
Roof move up high on Epinephrine.
Credit: bergbryce

More steep climbing up high on the route.
More steep climbing up high on the route.
Credit: bergbryce

After 5 or 6 easy pitches above, you'll come to a very obvious right turn where the climbing basically ends. We simul-ed from here and it went fast. Look for this ramp and tree in the next pic. After that, you can un-rope and walk to the summit.

If you see this ramp and tree, you're done!
If you see this ramp and tree, you're done!
Credit: bergbryce

You want to have the descent covered because it would be really easy to screw this one up and epic. You want to basically follow the ridge that runs east from the main Black Velvet Peak summit to it's end and then follow the trail/cairns down to the northeast. This eventually joins the Frogland buttress descent and then back to the car and water.

The climb was phenomenal and lived up to all the hype I had built up for it in my head. We climbed it in pretty good style. Just the right amount of water and food and relatively quickly. Car to car in about 10.5 hours. It was definitely the highlight of the trip.

Few other pics from the week...

Up on Frogland. Got lucky and walked right onto this one.
Frogland
Frogland
Credit: bergbryce

1st pitch of Amber, next to Wholesome Fullback
Amber, 1st pitch has varied climbing including a sick looking flake fe...
Amber, 1st pitch has varied climbing including a sick looking flake feature.
Credit: bergbryce

Wholesome Fullback buttress. This is a fine climb with tips, hands and a short chimney.
Team on Wholesome Fullback
Team on Wholesome Fullback
Credit: bergbryce

Dude on a rap over huge roof near Black Velvet Wall.
Dude on a rap over huge roof near Black Velvet Wall.
Credit: bergbryce

Until next time!!
Thank you Vegas!! <br/>
&#40;This is actually in Primm, NV&#41;
Thank you Vegas!!
(This is actually in Primm, NV)
Credit: bergbryce

  Trip Report Views: 3,822
bergbryce
About the Author
bergbryce is a mountain climber who currently lives in South Lake Tahoe, CA

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Apr 1, 2012 - 01:09am PT
Bad ass looking route! Chimneys kick ass
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
  Apr 1, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Cool man I really want to do that route! Nice work.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Apr 1, 2012 - 02:53am PT
That route will always hold a place of fondness in my heart: first major epic!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 1, 2012 - 03:21am PT
Funnest route ever, if you do it to the top you will not stop smiling for several days.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Apr 1, 2012 - 09:27am PT
im sweatin out
your adventure.

your share
narrowed the chronological
separation between mine
first shot of coffee
and my first cup of whiskey.


thank you
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Apr 1, 2012 - 09:13am PT
Great TR! Went out there to do it a while back, and got thunder stormed outa there. Way to go!
Prod

Trad climber
  Apr 1, 2012 - 09:49am PT
Nice first trip to RR.

Great job,

Prod.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Apr 1, 2012 - 10:25am PT
Stellar Trip Report.
Epinephrin was one of the first "long" routes I did with my son Jon. We had quite an adventure. It was his first squeeze chimney, we got off route for two pitches, and made the descent in the dark without headlamps.
Thanks for posting your story and pictures!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 1, 2012 - 11:34am PT
Nice report. This climb been on my list for a while!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 1, 2012 - 11:55am PT
Very nice TR, Hope some day to get to climb this one.
Thanks!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 1, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
EXCELLENT! Hope I get up there too.
Zander

climber
  Apr 1, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
Good times!
Thanks,
Zandder
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Apr 1, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
Sweet !
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
  Apr 1, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
Thanks for the great TR, I was trying to think back which pitch has the back to front chimney with the bolt sort of 'up there'. Great job!
Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
  Apr 2, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
Loved this climb! We descended in the dark without headlamps, and I stuck a barrel cactus spine into my shin. Wound didn't heal completely for three years.

JK
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Apr 2, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Good stuff..
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Apr 2, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
Most excellent ascents .... What about Prince of Darkness ?
shwilly

Trad climber
vegas
  Apr 2, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
Prince of darkness?
pffft like jerkin off in a whorehouse...
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
  Apr 2, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
Bryce,

I was going to ask if your GChat status was about the climb or if I should be concerned about ya. :-)

Great report! I've only recently learned of the route, but I think it will be my main reason to finally visit Red Rocks next winter.
geiger

Trad climber
Doylestown pa
  Apr 4, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
Just got back from RR. When I saw your headline it brought me back a few years. Three of us were there and one had never done a ledge bivy. I passed on it, but they started up mid-day and bivied on the ledge above the chimneys. I hung in the valley for the night. Their biggest problem was too little water. Black pee on the descent. Bad planning.
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 4, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
I didn't realize so many people epic on this route!! We un-roped at 2:30. Of course we were up at 4.
Seems like the upper pitches can go really fast and the route finding is as easy as it gets. Follow the corner.

I didn't get to take pictures of some of the other routes we climbed, but on Children's Crag (5 minutes from the car) is an incredible, spicy John Long, Lynn Hill 10b called Ice Climb. Great last pitch of the day, quick to get to.
Also got on Chicken Eruptus and Kemosabe, both in the Ragged Edges area and both very fun.
cmcnall

Trad climber
belmont, CA
  Apr 5, 2012 - 01:25am PT
Whoo, definitely beats my 30 hours car to car. Get that decent right!
Wicked fun route though, I remember spending 30 min getting a booty link cam from that chimney and that final traverse right before you unrope seemed like a bottomless pit of despair at night.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Apr 5, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
Nice work guys, some good beta too. I have always wanted to do this one.

Thanks for the share & the photos.

Ryan
Stephanie Bergner

Trad climber
Planet Send
  Apr 14, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Your TR inspired me to write my own TR! YEAH!
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Comment on this Trip Report
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Black Velvet Canyon - Epinephrine 5.9 - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Epinephrine ascends the ominous 600-foot-tall chimney.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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