Trip Report
Elephant's perch EPIC PHOTO TR, ON TOPIC!
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Friday August 6, 2010 3:29pm
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I first dreamed of climbing the mountaineers route when I read about in a 2001 climbing magazine article and had built it up to be a huge route in my mind.
One of my regular partners scott v was available and our wives gave us permission so it was on!
I have a 4 year old and a 7 month old so getting permission wasn't easy!
I decided to drive my car a decision that likely save my life!
We left town at noon on thursday and made the boat shuttle across red fish at 4:30.
cheeter's approach-scott at the boat dock


our first view of the route
Lichen it
Saddle back lakes at sun set- one of the most beautiful places ever!

Moon rise

Sun rise
I didn't sleep well as I had a 20 degree sleeping bad and was much too warm, was on top of the bag most of the night
P1

Looking down p1
Looking up p2

Looking down p2

Looking up p3
Looking down at our 3rd belay

Looking up p4

down p4

up p6
We made it to the top around 3:30 pm and had started at 7:30 not to bad, we got lost on the descent and took the east slabs, as the first descent gully did not look good, we should have gone up another 15 minutes and then down the main gully.
We ran very hard to make the boat and made it there at 6:50 pm a decision I would later regret!
We had a snack at the lodge and started home.
After 2 hours it got dark and we saw some deer and had slowed down to 60 miles and hour in a 65 zone.
Then it happened, scott was driving and I see this elk 40 feet in front of us, he managed to slow to 40 before we hit, both screaming obscenities.
The engine revved to 7000 rpms and scott was standing on the breaks, the engine was what I though smoking and I was worried about a fire. scott shifted in to neutral and the engine was still spinning 7k. we made it in to some one's drive way and slammed it in to park and shut it off.
We had cell reception and called the police, they came we filled out 1 hour of paper work.
My insurance company wouldn't pay the 75 mile tow home so we had to ask very firmly as there were no hotels open at midnight which it now was.
we got home at 2 am 3 hours later then we should have.
My totaled car more then 13k in damage!
Watch out for elk y'all!
Had we been in scotts civic, we would have likely died, the elk was perfectly positioned to come throught the wind shield!
Ezra Ellis
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About the Author Ezra Ellis is a trad climber from WA, & NC & Idaho. |
Comments
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Great TR, sorry about the car!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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glad you are ok. Assuming you guys made some great elk jerky right?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Aug 6, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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Msiddens,
they won't let you keep road kill in this state.....unfortunately....:)
Probably so the police can have it...:)
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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have you ever thought about getting a climber in frame on the pics?;-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Beautiful TR!
Thanks for the ride....er...I mean....uh...sorry for the car reference.
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Dudeman
Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
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Nice story and pics. Sorry to hear about the road kill ending.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Looks like some great climbing in a awesome setting!
That sucks a$$ about the car though...at least you weren't injured.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Aug 6, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Thanks y'all,
Yeah I can always replace the car, and no one was injured,
you can't replace those memories though!
Oh, one more thing, bring bug spray, the skeeters are MEAN!
We had the deet!
Ron, My partner doesn't like when I take pics while belaying....:)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A nice report - thanks! Too bad about your van and the ELKEPHANT, but it clearly could have been much worse.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Wow; that's an amazing place. Great TR!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Hey, Ezra. Topnotch TR.
That is 1 great rock, huh? I dunno, but the bugs didn't bother me so much last July. They bit, but whatever.
Sorry about your car, man. Glad no one was hurt.
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Zander
climber
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Looks like a great climb!
Sorry about your car. Glad you are OK.
Zander
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Pate
Trad climber
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nice line- looks like a fun route.
I'm a firm believer in not hitting the breaks pre-collision with a large mammal. Keep the bow high and the chances of the windshield entry are mitigated.
I hope the passenger ducked.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Ezra, Great work, I was in Idaho Falls last week, then up to Sunbeam, ID for family reunion. Miss that area and wished I had more time, Skully & I were hoping to get up The Perch! The only climbing I got in was with my former 74 year old neighbor who managed a 5.9 at Paramount near Heise, ID!!! He amazes me every year!
Thanks for sharing, and sorry you got an elk out of season!
Thor
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Aug 6, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Pate, we braked and let off on the brakes at the last minute.... I have thought about the whole angle thing, I don't know if it was better to hit it at 40 vs 6o mph with a different angle. That passenger was dead if there was one, scarry.
Thorgon, who is your 76 year old neighbor, sounds like some one I'd love to meet, send me an e-mail if you could. The perch is amazing, hopefully you'll make it next time. best y'all!
-e
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valygrl
climber
Boulder, CO
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Gnarly!
When were you up there? Did you meet Z from Boulder and J from SLC?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Aug 7, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Vallygirl,
we were there july 22nd -23rd. We saw some people coming in on friday but did not get their names, I hope your friends had a good time!
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valygrl
climber
Boulder, CO
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Thanks Ezra - they just hiked out last night, so you didn't cross paths. They had a great time, & your photos were cool for me to look at and see sort of what they were up to. Gorgeous place!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Ezra: Thanks for sharing the EP adventure. Sorry you had the elk adventure.
Was that by Craters of the Moon? Since there is no hunting in the National Monument, the deer hang there. I've only seen elk there once in many trips through------so you had the "special" experience.
At least when the "did you get a elk?" conversations come up this fall, you can tell stories.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice Ezra. Sorry about the car but you're lucky it wasn't a Moose.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Aug 8, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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Fritz- I was 4 miles north of arco (heading south) on us 93. The fields near craters often have a massive amount of antelope when I visit.
Jim- I have nightmares of hitting a moose- it would not be pretty no matter what you were driving...:)
Thanks for the comments y'all!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Ezra: It is amazing that there was an elk out in the middle of sagebrush and alfalfa fields.
One bad-chance in a million!
A few years back: I did see a moose running through the sagebrush, towards the head of Birch Creek, on the road from Idaho Falls to Salmon.
The closest water was 10 miles away.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Aug 15, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
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Yeah Fritz, a once in a million chance, although the tow truck driver said a herd of Elk had been in the area for a week!
Here is a great pic of the perch at sunset!

Funny story, I got a new car, it had less than 1,000 miles on it and while passing a car going 20 miles slower then the limit I blew the serpentine belt on it (likely from a kicked up rock). I just need to stop driving and start biking more....:)
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Aug 15, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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GREAT TR. Sorry 'bout the auto. I agree with whoever said it was a good thing it wasn't a moose.
Love the lake approach. Cooooolio!!!! But, yeah, a skeeter-breeder.
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Thanks Tammi!
Yeah Glad it wasn't a Moose!
I loved your Pigeon spire write up in the last Aplinist Mag!
Best
-e
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Shee-it!! That was a pretty close call. We were in Jellystone last week and I see why they have the speed limit lower at night.
Looks like really fun climbing though. Thanks for the TR
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Dec 11, 2010 - 10:41am PT
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Phil, I definitely am more careful at night any where in the region.
Missing the Warm sawtooth weather,
oh well, it's skiing time!
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Rokjox
Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
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Dec 11, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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I remember when almost everybody WALKED around the lake to get to the Perch.
You bothered to FIX a itty bitty car with $13,000 in damages? IS that a typo? SURELY it is?
WHY have I never had such a repair bill?
BECAUSE I WONT PAY $13,000 PLUS for a Tin Can CAR! You guys got gypped.
Any insurance company should just have totaled that thing and told you to buy a new one. NOW you got a tiny car that has been totaled, and bondo'ed back together. Can you TRUST that thing not to kill you next time? Straightened unibody cars are much weaker the second time around.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Dec 11, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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No Rox, they totaled the car and gave me $13K for it. So I Bought another similar car.
-e
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Rokjox
Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
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Dec 11, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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MUCH better idea.
Actually about keeping the roadkill, (if it WAS killed, I seen sh#t that bad, and the animal just runs away...) The Idaho Legislature just passed a law that DOES allow you to keep road kill and actually eat it if you want. Or tan the hides. I don't remember the details, they weren't given on the news report last month or so. You may need a hunting permit? And I certainly think you must report it to the F&G.
They used to give large road kill to orphanages and such here if they were fresh...
No sh#t.
Congrats on the M.R. I done it several times, always fun. Whats it rated now?
BTW? Pitch one is FAR more dangerous than anybody knows. There is a 5-6 foot pinnacle standing on end, just above the belay about 75 feet, that is DELICATELY balanced and completely broken off around the base. It is ready to fall for the last couple years, but hasn't gone yet. Ice wedging has pushed it from leaning on the wall to absolutely perpendicular, with little stones behind it to keep it from laying back against the wall each year.
Its still there, I get lost all the time, and have been scared by it twice in the last decade when I went straight up, rather than traverse left at the first little belay in the hole.
A REAL death pinnacle!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Author's Reply
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Dec 11, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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Thanks Rox,
I think the MR is currently rated 5.8+ in most guide books, which seems about right, we did the 5.9 variation on the 5 or 6th pitch.
I didn't notice the death block, but we belayed higher then the traditional first belay, think we belayed at a small tree on a ledge.
Best
Love that sawtooth granite!
-e
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jan 15, 2011 - 08:13am PT
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Great TR. I love the boat approach.
Prod.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 17, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
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Thanks again Ezra. Great pictures!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 17, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
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GREAT PIX ANTI LEB BUMP
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 30, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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Nice report Ezra.
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