Trip Report
Easy, Well-Protected Grit (Is Still Hard!) (TR)
Tuesday March 30, 2010 11:33am
So, like, I'm here a mere 3.5 hours away from the land of Hard Grit, and what do I do but sit on my arse all the time?! That ain't right. So I invited myself to a climbing trip that some old friends, some newer friends, and some soon-to-become friends were putting together in the Peak District, UK, this past weekend. Oy!

This is Stanage Edge. It's kinda like a squeezed Gunks - squashed vertically, stretched horizontally. Very similar horizontal striation, but on rock that feels more like, er... nothing I've touched before. JTree is maybe the closest in coarseness, but not really the same.

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Stanage Edge
Stanage Edge
Credit: Paulina
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The grittiness of this here gritstone means you don't really need holds, I'm told by the locals. You're supposed to kinda plaster yourself over the face and use the friction generated by your body area to hold yourself in place. I'm also told that the British grades are different and "E" stands for "Easy" and the easiest one is "E10". Well, that's clearly too easy for me, so I climbed things with grades like "Very Difficult" and "Severe" (they even had some holds!).

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Me on something severe at Stanage.
Me on something severe at Stanage.
Credit: Paulina
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Lovely English countryside
Lovely English countryside
Credit: Paulina
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Ben being all hard very severe
Ben being all hard very severe
Credit: Paulina
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Credit: Paulina
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Ben getting a leg up for posing on Master's Edge of Hard Grit fame.
Ben getting a leg up for posing on Master's Edge of Hard Grit fame.
Credit: Paulina
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Someone's friend leading a crazy-runout E5 (no longer at Stanage, ...
Someone's friend leading a crazy-runout E5 (no longer at Stanage, but still in the Peak).
Credit: Paulina
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Man, even easy, well-protected grit is hard! I'll have to go back to get my head around it. When's the next trip?

  Trip Report Views: 3,166
Paulina
About the Author
Paulina is a trad climber from .

Comments
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Mar 30, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
Very nice - a place which I have fond memories of. The rock is sufficiently textured that you can do a lot of climbing even if it's wet, which it often is.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Mar 30, 2010 - 12:38pm PT
Great report!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Mar 30, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
Thanks for the trip report. That place is fantastic- like a well organized joshua tree. Nothing too tall, but lots of it, and all in a straight line.

The rock is grippy, I climbed in the rain and snow a few times when I was there.

That being said, I was soloing a lot. I went to do this cool looking big roof not too high off the ground that then goes to this big loafy face, right in the middle of stanage. A very proud line for the place, and not too hard.

I slipped twice, it must get done a lot because the feet were pretty polished, or heck, maybe my shoes were wet. Either way, I went back to the ground, and found an easier climb.


Edit- I just looked at the photos and I think the climb I'm talking about is right there in the middle of the cliff.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Mar 30, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
It's even harder in the dark.

The mad people who took me out to their local grit when I visited didn't let a little thing like sunset stop the fun. They just broke out the coleman lanterns, and kept on climbing. No light. No Ropes. No problem.

Well, except for me. Being unable to see in the dark is kind of a problem for highball bouldering at night if you haven't got all the problems wired. I'd get up a few moves, to the point where the lanterns weren't helping any more, and have to bail.

Good fun, though.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 30, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
Love the last shot of the runout over puddle!
Paulina

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Author's Reply  Mar 30, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
I wish I could tell you, Tom, what you were climbing, but I have no clue about any names of routes or even places there...
Thanks for sharing your stories!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Mar 30, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
Yeah- that's where I was at too. I just walked up the hill for three days in a row to climb. I found partners sometimes, other times I didn't.

I didn't have a guidebook, not that it would have mattered. The ratings were very entertaining. VS, HVS, and E.

I tried an E1, I fell. I was living in Yosemite at the time so I could climb cracks pretty well. I racked up with all these cams, like you would in Yosemite. These guys from Wales who I met, just started laughing and pointing to all their friends about how many cams I loaded up.

It turns out that the rock there has way more constrictions, so they use a lot of stoppers. I learned the hard way, but I guess I always do.

the E1 that I did was a crack to the left of that photo of the cliff.

There was a 5.8 crack over there that I did by myself. It was good and more Yosemite like, above some boulders if I remember right.
oli warlow

Trad climber
U.K.
  Mar 31, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
I think the roof you are talking about is maybe Flying Butress Direct. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10372
The place with the puddle called Lawrencefield is a bit different as it is quarried rock (like Millstone). The rock tends to be a bit less grippy, but you get more cracks and holds!
Oli
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Mar 31, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
Nope- that's not it, but I think it was a ways left of there. I tried to scroll left on that website link you posted, but no dice.

You sort of climbed under a roof on a rail to the right then up a whole bunch of bread slices to the top at about 5.7 or so, I think.

Anyway, it's funny how you remember the climbs that you didn't do almost more than the ones you did.

At the end of the day, I guess my point is that Stanage and the grit are sweet.

I too took a tourist trip in the rain to see the master's edge. Zoinks!

Edit: the one I'm thinking of might be right above the head of the walker in the first photo. There was a crack that split the big loafy face.
oli warlow

Trad climber
U.K.
  Apr 2, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
I think this might be your climb then.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10323
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Apr 2, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
Pretty cool looking crag!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Apr 2, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
Paulina, Thanks for the TR.
I've never had the chance to go to Great Britain, but one of these days...
Meanwhile, I periodically watch my favorite climbing video of all time "Dave Birkett - Set in Stone". Have you seen it? It's totally inspiring.
Phyl
Jeremy Handren

climber
NV
  Apr 4, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
The route above the water is Pool Wall (E5 6b) at Lawrencfield, just across the road from Millstone.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Apr 5, 2010 - 01:24am PT
Oli- that looks like it!

FA 1922. Totally cool.

One of these days I'll get back there.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 2, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
Bump on your head if you fall.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 2, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
Mike is bumping climbing threads!

I join team!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 2, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
great Grit!!!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  Nov 2, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
gritty bucket list bump
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