Trip Report
Dr. Lepton, Buggs & Survival, "A Rife Of Crimb". Many Photos.
Wednesday April 6, 2011 8:07am
Credit: survival


Lepton speak. Rife Of Crimb. In order to speak in the stereotypical accent of the Japanese climber, you must replace all L sounds with R sounds. Rife of Crimb...get it? To make it fun, you also replace R sounds with L sounds. So on Tribal Rite and the North America Wall, "rope of life" became "Lope of Rife".
On this trip Lepton came up with "Rife of Crimb".

These are the things I learned from Lepton, oh so long ago. These and many more.


He says this will be his only public performance before going back under the radar for another 20 years, so you better enjoy it!



Tribal Rite 3rd ascent team (sans Lesher) reunited after 30 yrs.
Credit: survival
Hard to believe it's been 30 feckin' years. In some ways it was just yesterday.



Imagine my excitement when I learned that Lepton would be at my house for 5 days! Here he is helping with the new worm composting pit. (Farmer Bruce you know)
Credit: survival


Of course going climbing was a requirement, so we needed a good third man. Hmmmmm, who should it be?
Credit: survival
The master of the self portrait, Buggs of course. (Who else?) Scumbucket Jeremy can never sneak out on a weekday.



Off we went, to where the raptors soar, the river sings, and the ancient spirits would watch over us. (The ancient spirits like old men...)
Credit: survival




We started with the Mighty Toaster on the sharp end! But only after he finished wanking about it being cold out.
Credit: survival

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Credit: survival


Then came the moment I'd been waiting for, to see Dr. Lepton, the lightest of the light, the worlds greatest anti-freeclimber, climb for the first time in 30 years.
Credit: survival
He promised he was going to climb in bowling shoes, but he lied. He also borrowed my prehistoric Joe Brown helmet to keep his giant brain from melting the cliff. Nuclear containment you know......

I freekin' love those shadows!!
Credit: survival

Credit: survival


Credit: survival


Now it was Survivals turn on a new route!! Time to bump up the challenge on the good Dr.......
Credit: survival

There are many great photos ahead on three routes. Plus the bonus of Lepton and I going to another magic place!

Thanks for looking Taco-Heads.

Back in a bit!!!





  Trip Report Views: 2,767
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

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this just in

climber
north fork
  Apr 6, 2011 - 08:15am PT
Survivar crimbing. Thanks for yet another tr.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Apr 6, 2011 - 08:19am PT
(Farmer Bruce you know)

FarmerBruce, INDEED!

TFPU!

oxoxoxo

eKat
PhotogEC

climber
In front of my computer
  Apr 6, 2011 - 08:21am PT
Love all of the photos. The shadows are awesome and the blue sky is absolutely unreal. Looks like a grand time was had by all.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Apr 6, 2011 - 08:29am PT
Nice work. Looks like a fun route.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
  Apr 6, 2011 - 08:31am PT
Back in a bit!!!

Well you damn well better be! This to good to leave hanging.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 6, 2011 - 09:01am PT
Awesome survival, glad to see you climbing with your friends after 30 frigging years. I just turned 36 this week!
Jeremy

climber
  Apr 6, 2011 - 09:03am PT
OH YEAH BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks like you guys had a SWEET day!!!

WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

More pics BABY!!!!!

:-)

J
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Apr 6, 2011 - 09:49am PT
So didjya get off the choss and onto the good-looking stuff up above? :-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 6, 2011 - 10:01am PT
More photos for Jeremy!!


10b this time! Woot for old guys!
Credit: survival


Credit: survival



Buggs doin' the deed, with the mighty hands of Dr. Lepton on the belay. The pictures are so much better when they're not just ass shots eh?
Credit: survival


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More after running some errands!!



Reilly edit: Choss? CHOSS?! I know it's not as bomber as the couch yer layin' on, but we have to take what we can get!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 6, 2011 - 10:39am PT
Dr. Lepton showing some love to Amber's basketball.
Credit: survival


Joe Brown's turn on the stone again!
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melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Apr 6, 2011 - 10:46am PT
nice pics token,,glad to see lepton still sporty after all these years,,hey Buggy gimmie a shout one of these days,,peaceandlove brothers,,
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Apr 6, 2011 - 11:39am PT
HaHaHa!!! Good one! And it does actually look halfway decent!
Where is that? And when ya gonna go up to Chama and throw it down on that huge dihedral for us?
this just in

climber
north fork
  Apr 6, 2011 - 11:16am PT
Great climbing shots. That rock looks awesome and no crowds makes it even better. Sheeeeeeeeeeeeet yeah!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Apr 6, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Another fun story of climbing derring-do.


Where is the part about searching for the Lost-Tribe of prehistoric women hiding?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 6, 2011 - 11:41am PT
Reilly, PM me about what to do in Chama. I'd LOVE to do that TR!
I'll never tell you where it is, choss-hater.

TJI, crowds? Hell yeah bro, we were joking about that out there too. Crowds...sheesh, not one other party, PERIOD! I hate it here.

Melski? Feckin' MELSKI?? My gawd man, WELCOME TO THE MADHOUSE!!
Now get your ass down here for some routes.


On to the next route!
Credit: survival


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Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Apr 6, 2011 - 11:49am PT
Glate TL Sulvivar
lepton

climber
  Apr 6, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
The people that run the Witness Protection Program are really going to be upset about this!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 6, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
Don't worry, the people from WPP don't know you as Dr. Lepton, they know you as Dr. Phibes. You are a man of many faces....


Time for a few Survival Hero shots!
Credit: survival

The trickiest route of the day.
One of the crux's
Credit: survival

Credit: survival

Another tricky bit.
Credit: survival



More to come!
Jeremy

climber
  Apr 7, 2011 - 07:58am PT
OLD FARTS BUMP!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 7, 2011 - 08:57am PT
Time for a blast of photos!!

This was another 5.10 pitch by the way.
Credit: survival


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Coming up, the Lepton ascent and Survival and Lep's "vision quest"!

Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
  Apr 7, 2011 - 11:01am PT
-you just gotta love these guys!

Jeremy

climber
  Apr 7, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
MORE PICS OF OLD DUDES BUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 7, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
Thanks Jobee and Jeremy!


Lepton's greatest test of the day. Not only was he a devout aid climber back in the day, but now he is prez. of the AARP, and has turned bike weenie and bunged his shoulder up to boot.

So this last route was quite a challenge since it involves so many different kinds of movement and has about 4-5 distinct cruxes.
He climbed well and loved it. We may well fashion some semblance of a freeclimber out of him yet.....
Credit: survival


Credit: survival


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The Final Lepton Salute!!
Credit: survival


Next up, The Spirit Quest!!
Robb

Social climber
It's Ault or Nunn south of Shy Annie
  Apr 7, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
Oh my word it's the Lepton Man!!!!!!


HI CHRIS!!!!!!!!!
Jeremy

climber
  Apr 7, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
You Old Guys look WAY HOMO holding yer balls...I mean ball...

Just sayin...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Apr 7, 2011 - 07:25pm PT

Da Cosmic Banditos are back at it!!!!!

bbut, bbbut, BUGGS, BALD????? Tell me it ain't so, Bruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse!!!!!!!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 7, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
Awesome Bruce!,
Thanks for posting! Good to see you getting out with the old guard!

-e
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
  Apr 7, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
Seems like only yesterday I saw Chris holding court with not one, but two Valley nubiles who were chanting, "Lepton, Lepton we love you."
He smiled at me and said, "gotta go now, see ya".
Great to see you still at it Chris.

Regards,

Perry
lepton

climber
  Apr 7, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
Hey Robb and Chief, amazing to hear from you guys. I read a rife of crimb these days, but what is truly amazing is how Sulvivar managed to photoshop out all those embarrassing pee stains. I tried to sneak some aiders up there but......
Robb

Social climber
It's Ault or Nunn south of Shy Annie
  Apr 7, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
It's OK Chris. Just remember, despite the supposed evolution of "climbing" these days only COWARDS hesitate to SLAM METAL into cracks!!!

Reminds me, I've got to go back & retrieve those angles in MT. that were ringing like bells when I was done with them.


PS: Round eye, yu du numbah one topp roop berry guud!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2011 - 07:57am PT
It's great to see Lepton hooking up with other guys he knows from BITD.

Too much climbing content for the crowd here? Ok, let's change gears a little bit. Time for the evening art to kick in.

After climbing Buggs had to get home, so after dropping him off I took Lepton to one of my favorite desert hideaways. He loves the desert as much as I do, so it was an easily agreed upon move.



By the time we got there the evening light was just perfect for enjoying the colors of the high desert.
Credit: survival





Lepton found a miniature stone volcano.
Credit: survival




It was warm and perfectly quiet. We were quickly absorbed into the spirit of the place, and our pace slowed so we could fully appreciate the magic.




We photographed both the macro and the micro worlds.
Credit: survival


Credit: survival




Eons of time lay stretched out before us and we quickly became spellbound.
Credit: survival


Lepton spotted a couple shadows that were following us around.
Credit: survival



We were both taken by the colors and the contrast in the shadows.
Credit: survival


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The climber in me won't leave me alone!!
Credit: survival



Twisted Desert Beauty.........sounds like a band name?
Credit: survival




Of course my love of bonsai trees never leaves me either. I'm always on the hunt for the gnarly little survivor.
Credit: survival


Killer hoodoo boulders were everywhere.
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I sniffed around under some rocks and found the most amazing little world hiding under one.
Credit: survival




More art photos to come!


lepton

climber
  Apr 8, 2011 - 08:16am PT
Hard to believe that all this stuff happened in one day. Maybe we should change the name of the thread to, "Why do Christian Repulicans like to take it in the B$%# while Dr Lepton, Buggs and Survival etc. etc......
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 9, 2011 - 07:03am PT
Sorry bro, but you're right. That's the only way to get any real action on a thread around here.

Many folks bitch about the poli-threads, but that's where it happens because certain posters can yell over and over about the same thing while not being heard at all.

There's only 30+ posts here from the same guys and gals that visit all my photo threads, and some of them are from people that actually come back, like Jeremy and Reilly.

There's only a sixty-plus photos on this thread, but it's not climbing in California, so that doesn't work either. You'd think that people would enjoy seeing more that's not Yos around here.

But it's sorta like getting into a car and hearing a song that you've never heard before on the radio. Most people will flip the dial until they find The Eagles or Van Halen......

Oh well, we do it for ourselves and the people that do enjoy it. Won't ever make the big time....HA!!

guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Apr 8, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
Box of 100 rollirops in the mail for your effort Survival-Just rove rooking at all your photos!
climber bob

Social climber
maine
  Apr 9, 2011 - 03:24am PT
and you guys didn't call me..light on repton...looks like fun
Captain...or Skully

climber
  Apr 9, 2011 - 05:48am PT
Badass TR, Survival.
I love a good reunion tour. And your take on your various surroundings. Big fat TFPU, fer sure.
lepton

climber
  Apr 9, 2011 - 06:24am PT
CLIMBER BOOOOOOOOOOOOOB!!!!!!!!! Hell Yeah! If I pay for the plane ticket, will you come next time?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 9, 2011 - 07:40am PT
Thanks Guido, Bob and Skully. (Oh yeah, and Fritz up above)

Guido, I promised I was going to show Lepton the picture of you slab climbing with Harding, but never did....NEXT TIME!

Back for some more desert magic photos.

Credit: survival



Worlds within worlds out there....
Credit: survival


Jackson Pollack stopped by.
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Dr. Phibes and I made plans to hike this ridge together.
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Evening light in the pines.
Credit: survival


Look at the light under that stacked cheeseburger out there!
Credit: survival


Ghosts of yesteryear artwork....
Credit: survival
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Apr 9, 2011 - 07:49am PT
Credit: FarmerBruce

That, FarmerBruce, is one of the most beautiful images you've ever posted.

MAGNIFICENT!

TFPU!

ox

eKat
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Apr 9, 2011 - 07:55am PT
Keep em coming Survival, I love it.

Thanks

DMT
lepton

climber
  Apr 9, 2011 - 09:33am PT
Hey survival, we should have taken more pictures111!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 9, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
what pictures????


Credit: survival
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 11, 2011 - 08:44am PT
Self bump for a great photo thread.

My jones for awesome bonsai trees is never satisfied ! ! !
Credit: survival



Old man watching over the mesa....
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Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 11, 2011 - 09:06am PT
Yeha! I'm only connected sporadically at present so just this rock on ! All power to the Leptonman!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
  Apr 11, 2011 - 09:07am PT
Leptonman, good to see you're alive and having fun.

Cheers
Pat Nay
climber bob

Social climber
maine
  Apr 12, 2011 - 03:44am PT
how about a trip to maine?....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 12, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
Maine???

Last time I went up there, it was closed....
Credit: survival
Dr Lepton wearing the proper head gear to keep aliens from invading his brain. They've tried to take it before.....
PhotogEC

climber
In front of my computer
  Apr 12, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
Don't stop there! Keep the good stuff coming!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Apr 13, 2011 - 07:50am PT
Sorry it took me so long to chime in...

Climbing, old bros, cool trees, magic light ...
Your tr's are all the same.
And I like it.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 13, 2011 - 07:57am PT
Great desert magic photos Bruce, is this near Socorro new mexico?
Thanks
-ezra
climber bob

Social climber
maine
  Apr 13, 2011 - 08:09am PT
http://www.wcsh6.com/news/local/story.aspx?storyid=152165&catid=2 maine is now open..
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 13, 2011 - 09:23am PT
Blind Melon Chitlin' and Pretty Boy Floyd

Ready to lead a Rife Of Crimb.
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Climbing, old bros, cool trees, magic light ...
Your tr's are all the same.
And I like it.

Gotta be one of my favorite posts of all time. Thanks Jefe.


Ezra edit: Not so near Socorro, more near somewhere else.
More near Jemez Pueblo.....


Climber Bob edit: Good comeback bro!
Buggs

Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
  Apr 21, 2011 - 05:23am PT
Nicely done.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 21, 2011 - 09:26am PT
B B B B BBBBBBBBUGGS!!

Glad you finally threw down a few words homie.

Credit: survival
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
  Apr 21, 2011 - 11:56am PT
great TR.. you guys are superliously instinctual in your climbing. So is the location not mentioned cuz everyone knows it or cuz you just as soon not mention it? .......very cool little volcano!

bumpin up for a way good time
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 21, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
Hey Lucky Pink, thanks for the looksee.

Super...superli....superliously?? Dang, what kinda newfangled wordsmithin' is that? Are you gonna make me look it up?

I just realized i called one of my partners:
Dr Lepton
Dr Phibes
Prez of AARP
Joe Brown and
Pretty Boy Floyd....all in one thread! Sh*t, he IS a man of many faces!

Location is left out intentionally. I have done it on numerous threads. There are a few folks around here that know where it is, but I like to make people think, wonder, a bit.

I think it adds one little layer, instead of spouting the location, as though that were a really important part of the experience.
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Apr 25, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
I thought the cosmic banditos went underground years ago{still pimping I:m shure}but always glad to see one or two surface,,,just the colors of where ever you are make me want to skip next months visa payment to buy the TICKET,,peaceand love,,,
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Apr 26, 2011 - 06:25am PT
BUY THE TICKET MEL!!!

I know your partner in crime up there would love you for it.

We have 8 gallons of homemade wine........
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Dec 26, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
Great stories and pictures!

Thank you!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Dec 26, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Oh, well herro, most exerrent trip report.

You rike climbing? Haha, me too.






I know, it's racist, but it's all in good fun. I'm OK with my east coastah accent. It sounds wicked funny to outsidahs.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Dec 26, 2012 - 03:41pm PT

Gneiss job, guys@!!!!!

How's Buggs, doin', Survival????
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Jul 16, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
BBST!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 16, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
eKat, I ROVE YOU!!

Steve, Buggs is now in the witness protection program.

I'm only allowed to take him off the shelf for special occasions!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Jul 16, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
oxoxoxoxoxoxo
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 16, 2013 - 07:12pm PT

Give my best to the brave l'il toaster!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jul 16, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
Beautifur photos, I rove the deselt. Especiarry in the evening right!

Wele is this??!?!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Nov 11, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 11, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Thanks again eKat!!!

U numba one hero!!
okie

Trad climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
I remember the Lepton Man. Great guy as I recall. I remember he had some first ascent on the Falls Wall he was telling us about at the time. This climb was to the right of the spire in those corners. The last handhold was the overlook railing up there as I recall but maybe my memory is fading...
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