Trip Report
Deparately Seeking Stacks: A Wide Adventure
Sunday March 6, 2016 5:00pm
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Credit: christinafreschl
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I have been in a funk lately. Life has gotten really stressful. Being a fifth grade teacher is never easy, but spring fever has struck the 29 11 year olds I work with hard. And then there are the added pressures of growing up, like family, relationships, saving for retirement and trying to buy a house to settle down. People deal with stress in many ways and for me one sure fire way to not think about life for a while is to go on an adventure with some good friends and challenge myself with a little wide climbing.

I was feeling particularly weighted down by life the other night at the local climbing gym. So when my friends Robin and Erick mentioned a little climbed area with a crack that needed 8-10 #5 pieces, I was intrigued. That heavy rack sounded light compared to how I was feeling. The area was in Yosemite, my favorite place to climb and be in all the world. They had already scouted the approach, so that was a plus.

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"Wild Turkey's" perfect splitter calling like a siren.
"Wild Turkey's" perfect splitter calling like a siren.
Credit: christinafreschl
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I have learned that climbing little known climbs in Yosemite can be pretty epic (see Losing our marbles thread), so I asked Robin for as much information as she had. She had found a few threads on Supertopo about Audubon buttress, filled with phrases and words such as “obscurity”, “no bolts, no folks”, “long approach” “descent?” She had scouted the area with her husband Erick weeks before and they had even seen the climb we were seeking. It is called Wild Turkey. The climb is mentioned on Wide Fetish and the Offwidth Hardman Circuit, so of course Robin and I needed to check it off. We gathered as much information as we could find and set out to do it the next day. It will be good to add something to mountain project. Encourage more people to do obscure Yosemite offwidths. Also, when climbing an offwidth, I rarely think about the problems of life and narrow in on the inches in front of me.

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A lot of purple and silver, including a #8 that we didn't use.  Next t...
A lot of purple and silver, including a #8 that we didn't use. Next time!
Credit: christinafreschl
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We woke up and loaded the car with as many big cams as we could find. We got webbing and rap rings ready, because nowhere did it say anything about descent. While packing the car in the sunny meadow by Yosemite falls, we saw a bobcat cross the sidewalk and then meander across the road and plop down in the meadow and watch the falls. “It is a good omen,” I joked. Secretly I hoped it would be.

We began the hike up the Old Oak Flat Road. If you have never been up here, I highly encourage it. I knew as soon as I looked behind me and saw the stunning view of El Cap that I wouldn’t be weighted down by life’s problems today. We hiked along the road, coming to boulder fields where the hillside had slid and reclaimed a semi-natural state. The road was built in the 1930’s and has not been in use for many years. At one point while hiking you come to a massive field of refrigerator to car sized boulders. This is where the original road switched back up to gain some elevation. You must set off up the field to find the road again. This part is a little tricky when finding the area, but my trusted guides made it care free for me. They knew exactly where to go. I so enjoyed the stunning views and beautiful day that the 1 ½ hours hike went quickly and soon we were at Rainbow Point. “‘7 more minutes,” Erick said and then we hike up hill. I still could not see the formation, but had no doubt in my partners’ skill to navigate the approach.

We hiked for 7 minutes exactly and then turned and hiked straight up hill. You could not see the cliff even still, as the thick tree cover blocks all views. After 5 minutes hiking straight up hill, we came to a cliff band. I saw a beautiful corner, that I knew from studying the Don Reid guide must be “Duncan Imperial”. We traverse up and left and soon Wild Turkey came into view.

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Start of the climb.
Start of the climb.
Credit: christinafreschl
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The splitter looked like everything that we had hoped for. It was clean and striking. After checking out the approach pitch, which didn’t even look that bad, we were ready to begin. Robin would lead the first pitch. She was graciously giving me the second pitch and I was thrilled and only a little apprehensive.

Robin is a solid Yosemite climber. She is cool-headed and willing to head into unknown rock. True to her style, Robin quickly and skillfully gained the ledge and set up a belay. I came up, along with Erick. We were all surprised that the approach pitch had actually been quite decent and protectable. The ledge was comfortable and offered great views of the Rostrum and lower canyon.

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The view from the ledge.
The view from the ledge.
Credit: christinafreschl
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As soon as I got there, Robin said, “Check out the old, broken chock.” I peered into the crack. There lay a jagged, aluminum remnant most likely from the first ascensionist. I looked down at the heavy rack that I was loading my harness up with and was reminded of the incredible feats of heroism that early Yosemite is so rich with. “Oh, well,” I thought, “I hiked it up here might as well bring it,” and I added the 5th #5 to my harness.

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Grinning like fools; ready to begin.
Grinning like fools; ready to begin.
Credit: christinafreschl
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Robin and I double checked our knots and harnesses and I started up. Rattly hands changed quickly into big fists. I placed a #4 in the crack and made upward progress. The rock was perfect, clean and textured. The crack changed to 5” very quickly. I was getting butterfly stacks, but couldn’t quite get in a knee, so I changed to arm bars. These felt strenuous, but I was able to move upward better. My right leg was working hard, but there was a rest coming up. I plugged in a #5 camalot and got to an awkward in-cut ledge. I was able to get a decent rest here. I proceeded to plug in a camming device that Erick actually makes. It is lighter and has more range than a black diamond #6. Erick is a master fabricator and spends hours perfecting wide gear for offwidth adventures. A unique man.

This fit perfectly above the small bulge. I rested a little more and then moved above to finish the climb. It was continuous hand-fist stacks and luckily the right knee fit in at this point. There are few left feet on this entire route. I tried to use every one of them, but was still extremely pumped when I pulled over the ledge to the top of the pitch. What a beautiful pitch of offwidth climbing. And I know what you are thinking and no, this is not an oxymoron.

I hollered a “Wahoo,” and heard Robin say, “Do you see any bolts?”
I saw nothing, except for a nice horizontal crack in front of me, a sad looking tree out on a face to the right of me about 20 feet, and some larger trees about 60 feet up on the sandy top above.

I built an anchor and brought Robin and Erick up. They both made quick work of the crack, resting a little, but doing amazing on the pitch. Robin climbed quietly, while Erick kept it colorful with a series of good-humored expletives. We squeezed onto the ledge together and looked up, wondering what was next. Leave gear or climb another pitch and then rap from the trees above. Robin said that she would lead the next pitch. Erick and I quickly accepted. To say the least, it did not look great.

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Erick and his shadow ascend.
Erick and his shadow ascend.
Credit: christinafreschl
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Robin slowly and meticulously led the next pitch and after a while she shouted, “Belay off.” As I begin to follow the pitch, I soon saw why it had taken her so long. This was some of the worst kitty-litter, jungle climbing I had done in Yosemite. Everything felt loose and at one point you climb through a small tree. As I climbed, I cleaned the pitch I decided to stop taking cams out, because I wanted Erick to see the special nature of gear. He took a picture of the most bomber placement on the whole pitch.

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Robin did a little gardening to place this bomber piece.
Robin did a little gardening to place this bomber piece.
Credit: christinafreschl
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Again, Robin impressed me with her calm and competent leading. We all made it to the top of the cliff and set up some webbing around a large tree. We were luckily able to rap with 2-70m ropes. Even though, that last pitch made us all ready to be back on the ground, we will be back to find more dirty and rarely climbed pitches.

We found adventure. We laughed. We climbed and pushed ourselves. We got off the Manure Pile and the Five Open Books. We got out on a beautiful February day. We got to use lots of large gear. We saw new perspectives and through this the weight of life was lifted just a little bit. It is not that I want to avoid life’s tough choices, because there are many things in my life that are amazing. I am extremely lucky, but sometimes a reset is required. I will need to make the decisions about family, house, and 401K, but sometimes for just a weekend, or just a 80 foot pitch of perfect #5 curving splitter, it is sure nice to seek the stacks.

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Late afternoon light on Wild Turkey. Go get after it!
Late afternoon light on Wild Turkey. Go get after it!
Credit: christinafreschl
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All photos by Robin Lui or Erick Davidson.


  Trip Report Views: 4,838
christinafreschl
About the Author
christinafreschl is a climber from Berkeley who loves offwidths and still doesn't have a 401k.

Comments
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 6, 2016 - 05:24pm PT
Woah that is a solid looking crack. By the looks of the photos it must have been before the winter hit!

The site would be a better place if you posted more TRs! :)
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Mar 6, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
Hell yeah! Nice work!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Mar 6, 2016 - 06:06pm PT
I always wanted to do that one... thanks for the TR!
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
  Mar 6, 2016 - 06:14pm PT
Very nice!

Now please spill the beans on those cams in the back... You can't tease us with a glimpse of a #8 and not give us some hints as to how we can get in on the action!

Thanks!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Mar 6, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
Now please spill the beans on those cams in the back...

I am taking likin' your wide-chili too, tell us more about the beans in your mix?
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
  Mar 6, 2016 - 06:40pm PT
I'm feeling lots of admiration on your adventurous spirit and serious envy of all the wide gear. Show off!

You are an excellent writer!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Mar 6, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
Excellent!! Bravo!!
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 6, 2016 - 07:41pm PT
Nice one Freschl! Cool crack and great write up!
Friend

climber
  Mar 6, 2016 - 08:48pm PT
Sweet!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Mar 6, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
Very nice!
Another one I'll probably never get to...
Those contra Costa kids can be a nightmare.....

Or was it a nine?
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Mar 6, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
You're sick and should seek help. Or hand cracks.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
  Mar 6, 2016 - 09:19pm PT
A 401K can be just as challenging.


;>)
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Mar 6, 2016 - 09:26pm PT
So fun!!!!


Susan
WBraun

climber
  Mar 6, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
Nobody goes up there except real men.

I remember me and Tucker Tech probably like 30 years ago doing the 2nd ascent.

Now women go there?

That means it's the end of the world ...... :-)

NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Mar 6, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
Excellent! Le_bruce talked of this place and It was on the list, but never quite bubbled to the top. Nice to hear more details and see some pics!

And I totally agree, any outing in the winter is a good one, and even better if beyond the low hanging fruit of Manure and FoB and even better with splitter stacks! For me, Reeds area was always the easy choice for days when bigger adventures or curiosities didn't rouse me.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Mar 6, 2016 - 10:52pm PT
Great TR, talked to Robin & Erick in the gym yesterday and was stoked!
katiebird

climber
yosemite
  Mar 7, 2016 - 06:48am PT
Great write-up friend. I love your perspective of wide-climbing. I hope you're feeling lighter and moving through it all a bit smoother now. Looking forward to another adventure with you myself.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Mar 7, 2016 - 07:09am PT
BADAZZ!

I bow to real rock climbers.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Mar 7, 2016 - 07:13am PT
Nice! Wide and obscure...it can't get much better than that!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Mar 7, 2016 - 08:10am PT
Christina you rock. Way to get out there, loose some skin and cleanse the soul. Thanks for taking the time to share your adventure with all of us. Stay stoked!


Scott
Easy Wind

Trad climber
Oakland, California
  Mar 7, 2016 - 08:19am PT
Freschl! Freschl! Freschl!
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
  Mar 7, 2016 - 08:37am PT
Great trip report thanks for posting it up.
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
  Mar 7, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
That is a beautiful looking crack and a great story.

Cheers, Roy
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 7, 2016 - 12:32pm PT
Your excellent story and fine pictures make for a perfect distraction on a rainy day. Thanks much!

John
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 7, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
Nodded head in vigorous agreement at these and other points in your excellent TR:

...my favorite place to climb and be in all the world.

I have learned that climbing little known climbs in Yosemite can be pretty epic...

...when climbing an offwidth, I rarely think about the problems of life and narrow in on the inches in front of me.

I knew as soon as I looked behind me and saw the stunning view of El Cap that I wouldn’t be weighted down by life’s problems today.

We saw new perspectives and through this the weight of life was lifted just a little bit.

Nice index of lived-in moments for me, and I'm guessing for a lot of us Valley devotees. Great vibe in your writing, currently resonating nicely in mind and heart. Yosemite: gives something each time.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Mar 7, 2016 - 04:28pm PT
Nice going. That thing leans like crazy!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Mar 9, 2016 - 11:19am PT
It's Cilley to say, but you didn't check it out, you checked it off.
christinafreschl

climber
Berkeley
Author's Reply  Mar 8, 2016 - 06:41pm PT
Thanks for reading and glad that you enjoyed!

Hugs and rainbows to everyone!! Oh, and ponies, a girl loves ponies.
Jrigg

climber
Squamish, bc
  Mar 9, 2016 - 08:10pm PT
Wow, what a beauty! Nice job getting after it.

Just curious, is this the very attractive wide splitter that is easily visible off left when coming down the east ledges descent?
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Mar 10, 2016 - 06:03am PT
Whoa, even girlz are doing the hard wyde? Damn.

Excellent.

BAd
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Mar 10, 2016 - 09:17am PT
What an enjoyable TR! I poke fun at myself for my horror of wide cracks, but in truth I have tremendous respect for people who do them. It's so impressive to me, at any grade!

I'm also a fan of the "pre-approach" day - spending a day figuring out the approach to the base of a route and a cliff that is new to you. It's a great rest day activity in any area. Kudos to your partners for the recon.

Keep these TRs coming Christina!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Mar 10, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
Offwidth's almost always look like worthy adversaries - you've got to love that about them. Seems like you recognize that. Thanks for the TR!

Edit: There's more to OW than stacks. Never did one until I was like 30 or something. The other sub-disciplines are arm bars, chicken wings, squeeze-chimneying, and wrestling.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 10, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
crazy angles


I feel weak all of sudden. Must be a high gravity fluctuation.
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Mar 10, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
Top Notch!
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Mar 10, 2016 - 09:43pm PT
So Christina, I need a rope gun with lots of big gear for one of my projects this summer. You were one of the first people to pop to mind so I'll throw it out there, though others will be joining in.


This is the middle third of an unclimbed line with more below and above. The route is well over 500 feet long. Message me on FB or PM though here (if it works) if you're interested :)

PS. If anyone can tell where this is and posts any info the picture will disappear.

Oh ya, this is Daniel Jeffcoach. All of your OW climbs are insanely impressive! You actually smile on them!
christinafreschl

climber
Berkeley
Author's Reply  Mar 11, 2016 - 08:24pm PT
Just curious, is this the very attractive wide splitter that is easily visible off left when coming down the east ledges descent?

No @Jrigg, but that thing looks amazing. The approach looks brutal.

The other sub-disciplines are arm bars, chicken wings, squeeze-chimneying, and wrestling
Yay, to the wrestling:)

@limpingcrab That looks amazing!!!! I will contact you on FB.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
  Mar 11, 2016 - 09:36pm PT
Same size rack pound wise. but way way harder climbing. 5.12d r/x

This woman is the real deal.
Pam Shanty

You girl wide crackers rule!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Mar 11, 2016 - 09:18pm PT
Excellent climb, Trip Report and photos.
Thanks for posting.
christinafreschl

climber
Berkeley
Author's Reply  Mar 12, 2016 - 06:20am PT
[url="http://https://www.mountainproject.com/v/audubon-buttress/111660221"]http://https://www.mountainproject.com/v/audubon-buttress/111660221[/url]

Oh yeah, here is the mountain project write up if anyone wants some beta to go up there:) Hopefully, I have done well selling it.
aaron4peace

climber
Santa Fe
  Mar 23, 2016 - 10:36am PT
Can you post a photo of one of Erick's cams? Intrigued that it is lighter and rangier than a #6 BD.
christinafreschl

climber
Berkeley
Author's Reply  Mar 23, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
Sorry, the cams are still under production, so no photos:)
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Feb 13, 2017 - 07:26am PT
Hadn't seen this until now. Strong work!!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Feb 13, 2017 - 08:01am PT
This must have made me queasy the 1st time thru, child birth trading I get it. . . . .

But really wow! Amazing, that scaring.. |3^7
What else have done battle with since ?



christinafreschl. climber!!
Berkeley, Author's Reply Mar 12, 2016 - 06:20am PT

[url="http://https://www.mountainproject.com/v/audubon-buttress/111660221"]http://https://www.mountainproject.com/v/audubon-buttress/111660221[/url]

Oh yeah, here is the mountain project write up if anyone wants some beta to go up there:) Hopefully, I have done well selling it.

Ok!?


Mar 10, 2016 - 09:43pm PT
So Christina, I need a rope gun with lots of big gear for one of my projects this summer. You were one of the first people to pop to mind so I'll throw it out there, though others will be joining in.


shhhh... secretshhhh... secret
Credit: limpingcrab


This is the middle third of an unclimbed line with more below and above. The route is well over 500 feet long. Message me on FB or PM though here (if it works) if you're interested :)

PS. If anyone can tell where this is and posts any info the picture will disappear.

Oh ya, this is Daniel Jeffcoach. All of your OW climbs are insanely impressive! You actually smile on them!



did anyone get on this ?
Only a mid-route Picture !?
More please!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Feb 14, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
VALENTINES DAY BUMP,


GIRLS RULE BROS DROOL!
Well? Dan!
Did she get in touch? Did you crack that. Nut?
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Feb 14, 2017 - 04:48pm PT
Girls gone wyde! Nice job and cool trip report.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Feb 14, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
Everybody knows that you need to be a little unhinged to like this sort of thing.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Feb 21, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
Gnome - We invited Christina but our schedules didn't work so the route done got did without her. Turned out it was actually a finger-to-fists crack and not an OW. What we thought was a chimney next to it was an OW so our scale with the binoculars was off. Would have been nice to have her for the FML crack!

There are some trip reports on here and on Vitaliy's blog about it and the beta for the routes is at http://www.sekiclimbing.com/north-sentinel.html



Bump for Christina, hope you and the new baby are doing well and sleeping some!
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