Deception 5.6

 
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Lover's Leap, Hogsback


Lake Tahoe, California, USA


Trip Report
Deception-Lovers Leap- 6/26/2016
Sunday June 26, 2016 8:08pm
Climbed deception today and it was awesome! Arrived at the base of the climb at 9:30 am and we seemed to be the first party there for that particular climb. Great options for gear placements (was able to place everything from a #3 bd nut up to a number 4 bd cam (but there were only one or two spots on the whole route for gear over 3), was even able to use my dmm offset nuts and a couple offset cams, but I wouldnt say they were necessary. I found the psychological crux to be the traverse back to the crack at the top of the second pitch. There were little to no gear options above the traverse (We chose to traverse under the tiny roof, about 10 ft below the second belay ledge). But I in no way mean to discourage, the traverse is really only one move on slab without hands (with good smears/tiny dikes for feet). There are good feet i just found it a bit daunting for a 5.6 (DISCLAIMER- I AM AND HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A VERY CAUTIOUS PERSON/CLIMBER). Once I did it I found it to be incredibly easy as far as the moves go. I traversed to the dihedral then lie backed (please forgive possible improper tenses and grammar within climbing terminology :) the thin cracks to the top of the belay ledge. The "thin 5:7 variation (if I spotted it correctly) seemed to have a lot of vegetation growing out of it and seemed a bit dirty. There were many variations, but route finding was fairly easy for the 5.6, which seemed to follow the path of least resistance- so it was quite obvious. Like many climbs at the leap it seemed to get easier toward the top- although the entire climb fits the grade.

  Trip Report Views: 2,079
Mel-NER
About the Author
Mel-NER is a trad climber from California.

Comments
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Jun 26, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
Fantabulous!

Do every rte on that wall and you'll never be disappointed!!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
  Jun 27, 2016 - 12:00am PT
My first trad lead. The first and third pitches. Took what now seems like forever to set up the belay after the first pitch.
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Jun 27, 2016 - 07:25am PT
Your description has piqued my interest in this route. Thanks for posting the TR!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
  Jun 27, 2016 - 03:27pm PT
What, no pics? I feel shorted.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 27, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
now now now , no having so much fun allowed !


From the High way ? !!itz nice when there is a red line . . .;+)


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Lover's Leap, Hogsback - Deception 5.6 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Highway 50.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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The route as seen from Highway 50.
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A view from the Highway 50.
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The route as seen from Highway 50.
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