Trip Report
Dancing with the Devil
Tuesday August 7, 2018 8:31am
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser
Credit: Myles Moser

  Trip Report Views: 2,363
Myles Moser
About the Author
Myles Moser is a climber from Lone Pine, Ca.

Comments
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 7, 2018 - 09:04am PT
a very short, and concise TR indeed!

Thanks for taking me places I'd love to go!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 7, 2018 - 09:43am PT
Wow, so whos going to be the first person to do this climb and then ski the couloir?
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Aug 7, 2018 - 09:46am PT
THAT is quite a line. Cheers, sir.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Aug 7, 2018 - 09:50am PT
Weird limestone? Dolomite?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Aug 7, 2018 - 09:54am PT

Yes, quite a line. Razor sharp.

Made me think of these words: "I watched a snail crawl along the edge of a straight razor. This is my dream; this is my nightmare. Crawling, slithering, along the edge of a straight razor, and surviving."
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Aug 7, 2018 - 10:09am PT
Aldude posed my question.

My other is how did this go unclaimed?

Was the direct start out of the question?

Proud, as is all yer werk!
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
  Aug 7, 2018 - 10:41am PT
Wild rock. The "lightning" bolt dike across the face is interesting.

That's a lot of thin pins.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 7, 2018 - 10:48am PT
helluva nice line, mm
who led, you or the devil?
Jim Clipper

climber
  Aug 7, 2018 - 11:15am PT
3rd photo from pitch 10? I thought 5 looked aerie, but if it's 10, I think I'd be seeing the falcons launching much lower, IF I ever got there.
Woody the Beaver

Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
  Aug 7, 2018 - 11:54am PT
Wow. What a peak! Thanks!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Aug 7, 2018 - 07:05pm PT

BFA
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Aug 8, 2018 - 07:45am PT
this flower spoke calm
this flower spoke calm
Credit: thebravecowboy
real-deal alpine thin-pin free newroute bump. this is the good shit as Kik loved to say
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 8, 2018 - 11:11am PT
Titanium pins?
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2018 - 03:55pm PT
Credit: Myles Moser

WWII pitons from the tenth mountain division. It was very Intense up there. The direct start was a no go. More choss than we wanted to deal with! It took us 2 days over two different trips. Rock was excellent, to mediocre to great to terrible to horrible to horrific to horrendous! Beautiful location. A climb everyone has seen.
I've wanted to climb it for at least ten years. It was killer Epic Adventure .. Find the pins and stay on route! Hard hats a must!

I'll try to upload more photos
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Seattle
  Aug 11, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
Your route description is like TR Haiku.

That rock looks downright unreliable. Nice job!
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
  Aug 11, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
Wow! Yes, more photos please.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Aug 11, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
Yeah...soft iron and leave them fixed. We used them on the White Fang*
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
The softies were the only ones that were reliable. A couple of times I placed a few pins straight into the stone. No crack...just pound as hard as I could. We had these old czech ice pitons that we cut and ground that could hammer right into the soft rock.

White fang sounds really cool Aldude
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
Credit: Myles Moser
Now that's some good lookin' rock!
Credit: Myles Moser
Bad Hombres!
Bad Hombres!
Credit: Myles Moser
Bad Hombres!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2018 - 06:05pm PT
Richard Shore looking big!
Richard Shore looking big!
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

Czech sawed off ice piton
Czech sawed off ice piton
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Aug 11, 2018 - 06:26pm PT
Looks cool Myles! The rock resembles part of the same band of marble as the Fang...no real cracks...more like seams and folds. Chrome moly pins would just shatter the limestone. Bolt free?
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
Oh god no. We did one pin one bolt at each anchor. A few of the pitches required bolts but the majority of the climb pins were a far safer option. The softies were exploding the wall constantly. The few arrows we drove were so long that we excepted them as good

Over all very hollow and crazy setting
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 11, 2018 - 10:20pm PT
Very cool. Congratulations!
Tony Puppo

climber
Bishop
  Aug 11, 2018 - 10:27pm PT
Strong work gentleman.
Would give anything for a tape of the MM color commentary on that one.
Berg heil
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 11, 2018 - 10:53pm PT
aldude asked, but I didn't see the answer. What kind of rock is that? The bright pale suf.


"Beautiful Line" doesn't do it justice.
Wildincognito

climber
Eastside
  Aug 11, 2018 - 11:24pm PT
who led, you or the devil?

Great name- one hell of a lead!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Aug 12, 2018 - 08:03am PT
"Lower half is pretty much all marble. Upper ridge has a mix of hornfels and quartzite thrown in and the really shitty stuff on the last pitch was mostly schist I think. "

This is what Richies conclusion was... our local geologist

Credit: Myles Moser
Amy Ness

climber
ND
  Aug 14, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
sprayers gonna spray
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Aug 15, 2018 - 10:50am PT
^
watsup wid that?


So . . .as much as the description of the rock quality & consistency is familiar . . .








can't find THAT in New Jersey









(h*ly sh8! there is a "Thumbs Up" Like icon at the top of the margin?!)
Oh! Mrs Moser,(Amy Ness)
glad you followed that up;
or I mighta'/woulda spray'd on your parade, I missed the sarcasm.
hey, well I dont face plant,
but as I didn't say it
theres something wrong with your man, in gallons not cups.
Its good, a long cool drink
Thanks (theres only 1 like, snikker, )I kid, Thattherezz badaz'D



is this in the same zone?
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Amy Ness

climber
ND
  Aug 14, 2018 - 06:22pm PT
Hes my husband...Im allows to tease him:)
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Aug 14, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
Is this that white thing up by Mt. Morrison?
Wildincognito

climber
Eastside
  Aug 15, 2018 - 01:00am PT

A.N.

Aug 14, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
sprayers gonna spray

wish you were (t)here
Lennox

climber
in the land of the blind
  Aug 15, 2018 - 08:27am PT
Is this that white thing up by Mt. Morrison?

No, that is the White Fang that aldude is talking about.

This route is on Checkered Demon which sits between Mt. Humphreys and Emerson.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
  Aug 15, 2018 - 08:28am PT
Its the white thing by checked demon
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Aug 15, 2018 - 09:10am PT
Marble scares me, you guys are nuts.

Sweet lookin' line!
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