Little Tin Gods 5.8

 
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Cookie Sheet


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Cookie Sheet
Monday October 8, 2012 1:35pm
We found our way to the Cookie Sheet this past weekend. We were stoked! Totally fun & moderate climbing with great bolts (thx Bob et al!), and cool views.

I was skeptical as I approached the base--it looked so low angle. We got on Slipstream and found the rock to be Beauty. After some trouncing around the forest, we discovered the 3rd-class ledge system that took us over to the other routes. [Hint: Start the thin foot traverse at the base of Wump World, which is easy to spot if you have the topo.]


On the approach, we followed a full set of ducks up the talus on the right side of the Cookie (start from the old road, and follow the ever present ducks to the base). The talus hopping is not straight forward, and I appreciated the trail markers.

At the base, we found another set of ducks leading down into the woods below the Sheet. I thought "Cool, an easier approach trail!" So we followed the ducks down, then more down. Damn, there were so many of them ducks, they were everywhere. But then they suddenly stopped--and we found ourselves completely surrounded by P.O. !!!

Does anybody know anything about this alternate approach?

Other than that, I recommend this spot for moderate slab climbing. A very fun location, to be sure.

  Trip Report Views: 928
k-man
About the Author
k-man is a gym climber from SCruz.

Comments
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 8, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
To quote Admiral Ackbar in Return of the Jedi


"IT'S A TRAP!!!"
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Author's Reply  Oct 8, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
A sick joke Munge, a totally sick joke.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 8, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
I thought the rangers were pissed off about the illegal trail up there?
Or was it the copious amounts of Weed-B-Gone that was used in lieu of
Agent Orange on the poison ivy?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Author's Reply  Oct 8, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Reilly, not sure if you're intending to spread mis-info, but I was told in person that the approach was up the talus. The topo also shows the talus approach. No Weed-Be-Gone needed there. And none needed on the slab routes either.


The "trail" going down had no signs of chemical clearing (or even machete usage). So...

What are ye talking about?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 8, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
I don't know about the alternate approach. I don't even remember how we got there in 1973. I was amused to see the reference to "JE's Old Bolt" in the ST sport/top-roping guide, though.

It is a great place to practice slab climbing techniques on rock that is extremely non-threatening.

John
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 8, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
I'll go sit in the car.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Author's Reply  Oct 8, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
That's great John, I was wondering about that citation. I was awfully close to that old thing--next time I'll have to make a special visit!


Reilly, that's just about where we wanted to be when it started to get dark in that poison oak boulder bash.
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
  Oct 8, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
Hi Kelly,

The path you followed down takes you from the Cookie Sheet to the area known as "below the sheet." It is just a path of least resistance that roughly follows the drainage for about 5 minutes then forks left to go to the cliff and right to escape to the talus field below the powerlines. There is only one way that will get you to the talus field without ending up in PO hell. Sounds like you may have missed it. Once you are below the powerlines, you still have to choose your route carefully to avoid the PO closer to the road. That's why it's not recommended.... There are a couple of difficult tips cracks at the below the sheet area. One has yet to go free. I'll email you a topo.

We did not put cairns at the very top of this drainage, so as to not lead Cookie Sheet folks the wrong way, but maybe others had put them in more recently. I have bumped into several hikers who start at the West end of the tunnel and hike all the way down to 140 as an "adventure hike."

I first followed the drainage down from the Cookie Sheet during an early Facelift by following a trail of garbage that had been tossed out of the Hwy 120 tunnel portal, then washed downhill over many years. 2 large haulbags full! Then we found the hidden cliff down there.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Author's Reply  Oct 8, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
I think I stumbled on that area when I was trying to find the secret 3rd-class ledge. Dang, that thing is as unique as the ledge over to Energy Crisis...

Next time, it's duck hunting fer sure...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Oct 8, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
Is it good to climb there in winter? Or all in the shade by than?
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 8, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
Some trap! Admiral Ackbar looked human before getting lost in that PO. Must have got in his lungs too, with that raspy voice.
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Cookie Sheet - Little Tin Gods 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris Van Leuven
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