Trip Report
Cochise Part III, GeezerFest, 2013
Sunday November 3, 2013 2:51pm
Credit: survival

It was Farland, Doug McDonald's friend who coined the phrase, while we were on yet another hike. "There's BeanFest and SushiFest, but this is more like GeezerFest."

I immediately said, "I'm gonna use that!"

I don't even know what the combined age or climbing experience was, for a camp of only ten people, it's too much math, heh heh...


We ended up with Myself, My old military pal Buggs (BLT), Doug M., Farland F., Lindi McIlwaine, Donini, Jay Smith, Jefe, Leggs, and Jeremy. What a blast!

Why does the ground have to be so damn hard there? Is the dirt harder at the Stronghold than other places?!!? I was not alone in a lack of sleep on some nights.


The "Knob" tower above our camp. BLT and I hiked/scrambled and climbed up there after we first set up camp.




The idea was simple enough. I have climbed out of two or three man camps for many years. Normally it's the simplest and most efficient way to get stuff done. But part of me has always missed the old Camp IV days. I just never missed those folks that you DIDN'T want hanging around your site!
So I decided why not have a bigger camp, but just people I wanted to hang out with? The first annual GeezerFest was being born.
There were a few of you who were invited and couldn't make it for one reason or another. Previous commitments, lackamoney, and extreme distance were common. Yes David, it's a long damn way from Seattle to Tombstone!


Looking further afield from "The Knob"





Please forgive me for excessive playing with the toys on my camera, some of you have teased me about it already. But it's my camera, and my sense of fun, so suck it up team!





The Brave Little Toaster, pitch 2, Ewephoria.











It was the trip of broken stuff. Broken chairs, malfunctioning stove, truck stereo, camera issues, etc. We had it all!!



Survival on Ewephoria.










Looking Northish from Sheepshead.









Ewephoria










My little armored friend.










Ewephoria










Obligatory Moon shot.










A picture of Donini taking a picture.
Credit: survival









Our camp is in the trees below.










Buggs brought me some New Mexico cutlery, since I flew.
Credit: survival









The saddle under the Knob.










Lindi above, Jeremy and Buggs below, Cochise Dome
Credit: survival








Doug leading on Mystery Of The Desert.
Credit: survival









Sky hole!!










Buggs, thinking it over.










The Knob, from camp.




Back in a bit!
I hope a few folks will include a few of their shots too, although a couple aren't even Tacos. Actually, I hope Jay Smith will send me a few I can share, since I think he is orders of magnitude beyond me as a photographer.



I hope I have Farlands permission to prove that I followed a 5.11 pitch!
Hardest single pitch I've done in quite a while, even though I had to hang once....damn, I thought I was gonna pull through too!
Credit: survival
























  Trip Report Views: 3,245
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

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eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 3, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
FarmerBruce. . . that first photo is the very best!

TFPU!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Nov 3, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Nice! More?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Nov 3, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Sorry I couldn't make it for this one Bruce -- while you were hanging out with the A-team I was wearing a suit and hanging out with a bunch of aviation finance guys. Sort of the same age profile, but not as much fun as your crowd.

Next time for sure.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 3, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Thanks Bruce, I have always wanted to climb there.
I need to make the trip to the stronghold for sure!!!!!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Nov 3, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
A lot of food for a climber's imagination... TFPU!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 3, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
Thanks for the input gang.

Yes Brandon, there's lots more coming!

My problem was that I used up so much of my battery taking scenery on the first couple days that I was milking my camera by the time the actual climbing started!

Ghost, wish you would've been there too.

Should we have an age cut-off? HA! Jeremy, Jefe and Leggs were a little young.....


Group shot!!





The only difference is that Buggs and Leggs switched out as the shooter.










Donini on Whale Dome with me and BLT.










Lindi up high on Cochise Dome.










Top of Sheepshead.











Stonewoman? No, Baby Junior....










Lindi and her twin.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Credit: drljefe
I think this was a Neil Diamond song.

Credit: drljefe
tuckered

I took the boyz to Furrs Cafeteria for the early bird special,
then it was back to my house and asleep by 8.

Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Jefe looks like some sort of muppet in the second group photo!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Neil Diamond?!? Curse you Br'er rabbit!!


Credit: survival








BLT and Donini on top of Whale Dome, WIND!!!










Me on Moby Dick.










Too much fun.....










What the heck is this??? (Actually I know.)
The place makes your imagination run wild, and if you have toys, WOW!









Can you see the stone man sitting there?
Credit: survival










perswig

climber
  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
Sweeeet scene, gang, pics.

The only difference is that Buggs and Leggs switched out as the shooter.

One vote for keeping Buggs the photog (hmmm, wonder why?)

What's the story with that spoon, Survival?

Dale
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Nice !!!! Thanks for the views!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
A Neil Diamond song... hahahahhaa. Perhaps I DIDN'T leave too early that night.


:)


Great photos and TR, Survival... So happy you had a kick ass week.
It was fantastic to meet some fellow Taco heads too!


~peace
divad

Trad climber
wmass
  Nov 3, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
great pix!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 3, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Looks like fun Survival! Thanks for all the fun photos too!

Gezzerfest! I love that word. However! Apparently other great minds have also thought of it.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Nov 3, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Nice climbing content! I could stand some more Cochise climbing, that place is awesome!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 3, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
































A mini dome with a bad hair day!










Credit: survival









Credit: survival









Credit: survival








Survival with too much rack....as usual.
Credit: survival








Leading on Mystery Of The Desert.
Credit: survival
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 3, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
I LOVE geezer fun...having youngins along is good for motivation....but that sure didn't seem necessary as the geezers were rock in'. Wonderful pictures, and fun with doing weird things with some of them.
Fun read and viewing.

Susan

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 3, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
Great TR! I'm in Flagstaff having survived Cochise, Granite Mtn. and Sedona. Great time at the Stronghold! Tell Buggs that I ended up with his fork....I owe him.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 3, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Ewephoria - Baaaaa!

Them's some spry lookin' geezers.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 3, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
Thanks Jim! I will inform Sir Buggs, or he will read it here.

Jim, throw some pix on here when you get a chance, and if you feel like it.

Dale the story on that spoon is it is very old NM Indian make.

The swastika was a very interesting touch. They have been used by native people in many places for a very long time, but in this case probably means that the spoon was made before WWII, since it became less popular with Natives after that.

Doug, Mystery Of The Desert. Thanks for the tip Jefe!!

















Those are some badass dikes around there eh? Those things are huge!






















Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 3, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
Survival! Thanks again for posting up all those photos. I do like the "artsy" ones.

This "artsy" one is my favorite!

Credit: Fritz
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 3, 2013 - 10:49pm PT

So jealous! Warm(?) dry granite an estimable crowd.

tfpu.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Nov 3, 2013 - 11:46pm PT


All them all-stars and I missed it?????

HOOORAY for the BLT!!!
HI Bugs!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 3, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
This is radical survival. Looks like a blast with a killer crew. Thanks!


What's the season @ Cochise? Where would one fly into & rent a car??


Stone looks quality.
skywalker

climber
  Nov 3, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
I almost went there a loooooong time ago. Actually like 20 years ago but went to Mt. Lemon(?) instead. Never heard of the place at the time; bummer. On my secret list. Looks so magical...Thanks!

S...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 4, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Wow Lindi too?!
How cool!
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Nov 4, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Why does Doug look like he's wearing Farland's shorts? Sounds like a nice GeezerFest and from the photos, looks like another beautiful trip has been had at Cochise. GeezerFest 2013 makes history!

T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Nov 4, 2013 - 08:28am PT
Go Geezers Go!
TFPU
Tad
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Nov 4, 2013 - 08:33am PT
I love Cochise.

Thanks for posting,. FABULOUS pictures!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
  Nov 4, 2013 - 09:53am PT
Somebody needs to put some food on that fork Jim ended up with...
MikeL

Social climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 4, 2013 - 10:07am PT
The good life.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Susan, those shorts are not the worst of Farland's clothes Doug was wearing....HA HA HA hahaaa!!



Somebody needs to put some food on that fork Jim ended up with...

No sh#t eh? Good one!

Ryan, I've only been there in Oct, Nov, and January.
October was by far the best for me so far. I imagine late Feb could be pretty good too. Fly into Tucson and rent a car.


Credit: survival










Credit: survival









Credit: survival
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Nov 4, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Looks like another good time at Cochise, miss that place

Thanks for the great photos and TR
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Nov 4, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
You put "WIND!!" in the caption to your shot of JD and the BLT on top of Whale Dome.

We had 5,000 mph wind when we topped out on that thing a couple of years ago. Made for an interesting rappel. As in: "Is there any chance whatsoever that our rope won't get caught on something when we pull it?"

I think that was the windiest rappel I've ever done.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Ghost, we had no wind until our last couple days there, and then WHOA! The wind wasn't bad until we got high on the route, and then Donini said "Let's get the hell out of here!" He was even making Patagonia jokes!

The rope got hung for he and Buggs both on the rap, one was a very light tag line. Thank the great spirit that it didn't get hung when we pulled them....






Credit: survival









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Credit: survival
BFK

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Nov 4, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Great pics! TFPU. I really miss that place, I would love to drag some the OW specialists I've met while living in CA and get on Abracadaver. It'd be interesting to see how it compares to valley OW...
this just in

climber
north fork
  Nov 4, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
Great TR Survival, looks like you guys had a perfect time. I gotta go to Cochise sometime.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
My Mojo pile for the trip:

*The Raven represents my father, who has visited me in some really stressful places, since he passed away in 1990.

* The jump wings are the "blood wings" my dad pounded into my chest at the Air Force Academy Free fall school in 1984.

* The bracelet is a power piece that Jill found after looking for years after my first great bracelet was stolen.

I guess they worked!!
Credit: survival
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 4, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
So tell us about the climbs you did...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2013 - 11:45am PT
OK Jefe. I will list some routes from the whole team, rather than just what Toaster and I did.
I will add some of our Cochise Speak to it as well.

Sheepshead Area
*Ewephoria- 5 pitches- 5.8- 5.10 the way I finished it, don't ask....
(Bruce, Buggs)
*Unknown, 15 feet left of Peacemaker- 6 pitches- 5.10a/b
(Donini, Jay)
*Mystery Of The Desert- 6 pitches- 5.9
(Bruce, Doug)
*Half Of Mystery Of The Desert
(Bruce, Jeremy)
*Two 5.11 multi-pitch on the right side of Muttonhead
(Doug, Jay)
*Unknown one pitch routes at the base of Muttonhead 5.9-10b
(Donini, Buggs, Lindi, Farland)

Isle Of Ewe
*OK Corral- 5.8
(Bruce, Buggs)
*Isle Of You- 5.9 my ass....
(Bruce, Doug)
*Stonewoman- 5.10a
(Bruce, Lindi)
*Baby Junior- 5.8+
(Bruce, Lindi, Buggs)
*Baby Junior Gets Spanked- 5.6
(Lindi, Farland, Buggs)
*Unknown, right side- 5.9
(Doug, Farland, Lindi)

Rockfellow Group
*Endgame- 5 pitches- 5.10a
(Donini, Jay)
*Jimmywhakky- we only did the 1st pitch- 5.11a
(Doug, Bruce)
*Cochise Dome, Whats My Line, 4 pitches, 5.6- 3 separate parties
(Bruce, Lindi) (Jeremy, Buggs) (Doug, Farland)

Whale Dome
*Moby Dick- 5 pitches- 5.8
(Bruce, Buggs, Donini)

That's all I can think of right now. Here's a fun sunset pic to hold me over til I get my flippers on a couple of Jay Smith's....




steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Nov 5, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Looks like an awesome time was had by all.

Sorry we missed you guys at Granite Mountain, Jim. We had a couple nice days over the weekend, and even packed in a nice visit to the Granite Mountain Brewery Saturday night. Hope you enjoyed Said and Done/Reunion. One of the best link-ups there.

Greg


survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 6, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Greg, there was talk of you down there, and how Jim thought he would be linking up with you.

You and Geir's topos have been such a great help down there for many people, thanks.


Some of our trip "speak":

"Lay the Chub to it!!" (Buggs and I were teasing each other about being old and chubby)

"Sac up and Chub down!" (Doug when I told him there was a 30 ft run out on my radar)

"Ven da conditions ah right, you have to pull da triggah" (Us using Ueli speak from Annapurna)

Cap'n Pissgums is a route up at Rockfellow, and somehow Cap'n Pissgums became a team mascot:

"Cap'n Pissgums sez water's bad for you!"

"Cap'n Pissgums sez no pissing on the route!"

"Cap'n Pissgums sez you ain't gettin' younger and stronger, GET UP THERE!"

N.O.L.S. became N.O.B.S. (National Outdoor Butt-In School) after a group of them tried to move into our camp when there were already FIVE tents in place!




Donini on Whale Dome.
Credit: survival


survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 7, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Whale Dome from a distance. The drainage getting up there was so beautiful!
Credit: survival






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Cochise Dome
Credit: survival







Rockfellow Dome
Credit: survival







Credit: survival
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 7, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Bump
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 8, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Wow! Amazing TR and photos.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Nov 8, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Fantastic. Great photos
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 12, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Thanks again gang!


Lindi got the money shot of me!
Credit: survival






Donini holding court with me and the BLT.
Credit: survival
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 12, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
First pitch of Stampede, Courtney Phillips climbing
First pitch of Stampede, Courtney Phillips climbing
Credit: Blakey

BUMP
Steve
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 12, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Thanks Farland, for hitting me with a few pics of Doug and I on the 5.11. Doug, still cranking, after all these years.


Doug led, me in red. Farland sent these to my wife in DC, while we were still on the route!!

Credit: survival







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Credit: survival


Bad Climber

climber
  Nov 12, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My wife, our hound, and I are headed there after the first of the year. Can't wait!

BAd
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Nov 12, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Can't believe this is the first time I caught this TR. Nice work and great photos!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 20, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Thanks for adding a pic Blakey!

Feel free to add more if you like.




Credit: survival







Credit: survival







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melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Nov 25, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
this stuff"s got me jones;en for a cosmic bandito reunion,,,lets talk,,,
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Sorry Mel, you gotta be able to climb outta your lounger, lead a little, and play more than three chords to be a Bandito, AND hang at Geezer-Fest....


BWA HA HA HA hahahahaaaa!!!!!!

C'mon bro, me and my cane are waitin' for ya!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 25, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Wow, that is a lot of great photos! Next time you should join for Balch fest. What a fun group of people that was!
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
  Dec 3, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
Climbed there in 1971 with the Tucson boys. What fun that place was....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
Climbed there in 1971 with the Tucson boys. What fun that place was....


Do you mind sharing a story???
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Dec 12, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
I haven't been to Cochise since I attended a beanfest back in the 80s.

:(
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