Trip Report
Clyde Minaret- day-hike of SE Face (Direct var. IV 5.9+)
Sunday November 18, 2012 2:15pm
Clyde Minaret is the high point
Clyde Minaret is the high point
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Bryan and I wanted to climb another long route in a day. Since we climbed more than a few '50 Classics' together, we wanted to tick off another one. We started from Agnew Meadows trail-head some time before the sun rise. We got to the base of the route around 9am and took the 'Direct" variation. I led the first pitch and than we swung leads, attempting to stay on the route. After the first two pitches the route finding was not straight forward, till we reached the big dihedral. Climbing in the dihedral seemed tough for a 5.8, but original and enjoyable. After topping the route we simul climbed the rest of the ridge. We had a few snacks on the summit and took a long break up there to enjoy the scenery. Than we down-climbed the "Rock Route" back down. The Rock Route was loose, but interesting. Since neither of us has done the Rock Route before it took us a while to get down to the base of the peak, which we managed just after it got dark. We did not make it down in time to get a pizza, but Denny's in Bishop was opened!

PS: I thought this route was much tougher than North Arete of Bear Creek Spire, South Face of Charlotte dome and even Fish Hook Arete on Mt. Russell. Even though the rock is not granite, the climbing was surprisingly awesome.
And here are the photos:

Minarets as seen on the approach
Minarets as seen on the approach
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Beautiful view of Minarets. Route goes up the face of the highest poin...
Beautiful view of Minarets. Route goes up the face of the highest pointy peak
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Dawson, Dyer and Jensen Minarets (?)
Dawson, Dyer and Jensen Minarets (?)
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Minarets
Minarets
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Looking down P 1
Looking down P 1
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Bryan leading Pitch 2
Bryan leading Pitch 2
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Our pitch 4...
Our pitch 4...
Credit: Vitaliy M.
In the dihedral
In the dihedral
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Bryan in upper dihedral
Bryan in upper dihedral
Credit: Vitaliy M.
View from somewhere near the top
View from somewhere near the top
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Register
Register
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Guys that are attempting to finish all of the climbs from 50 classics ...
Guys that are attempting to finish all of the climbs from 50 classics book
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Myself on the peak.
Myself on the peak.
Credit: Vitaliy M.

  Trip Report Views: 1,350
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
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Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Nov 18, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
That's such an awesome peak! Congrats.
hungry man

Trad climber
around
  Nov 18, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
Nice pictures of the Minarets! Very cool!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Nov 18, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
f*cker hasnt changed in years..


I ALWAYS wonder about Walter Starr Jrs grave site...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 18, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
Nice TR Vitaliy, that route looks awesome. And to be on top of a Minaret & get a view of that iconic range from one of its summits must have been amazing! Is the lake in the approach photos Minaret lake or is that Ediza? I haven't been back there yet but really looking forward to checking it out someday, thanks.
Zander

climber
  Nov 18, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
Looks sweet!
Z
msiddens

Trad climber
  Nov 18, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
Great thanks for posting- love them long days!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 19, 2012 - 12:05am PT
f'kin' awewome. Nice job and thanks for the photos and writeup.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Nov 19, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
Is the lake in the approach photos Minaret lake or is that Ediza?

The view with the lake and all of the Minarets (Minarets on the approach) is from the shores of Lake Cecile.

The other photo with Clyde more pointy-looking ("Beautiful view of Minarets") is from Minarets Lake I believe. That photo I took on a hiking trip in 2010. First photo in this album was also from that trip, from top of Volcanic Ridge. It has one of the best views in Sierra hands down. Would encourage you to visit. Incredibly scenic.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 19, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Vitya, way to get after the Big Choss! Didn't see the Cheburashka.
Has he gotten too fat and soft for the big one-dayers?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 19, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
Oh boy....one of my most favorite areas...Beautiful pics...certainly looks like you were a happy guy!

Susan
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Nov 19, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
Nice, that rock looks cool!
Fletcher

Gym climber
A very quiet place
  Nov 19, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
Great! Thanks, enjoyed that.

You noted that the rock is not granite. Do you know what it is. I'm guessing, based on the area that it's some kind of volcanic rock.

Eric
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Nov 19, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
Metamorphic. Some areas good,, some areas CHOSSED. Every summit a challenge and worth the trip. Of course day hiking it should be illegal!;-) youll want to kick it at the lake - maybe climb the lower Minaret (name escapes me) then do the Clyde. Maybe even Ken.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 19, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Awesome vitality, looks like a stellar day!!!!!!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 19, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
Nice send Vitaliy. A great route. Definitely not a gimme for the grade. I thought it seemed a much bigger undertaking than other comparably rated routes.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Nov 19, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
A day hike a la John Salathe! Good climb! Envy grows.

I can see how the upper route's confusing. The Sierra Club's signs got taken down. When? :0)

Smug gym rats are really annoying. Glad you ain't one of those, V.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Nov 20, 2012 - 03:48am PT
Nice tr Vitaly! Looks like fun. Beautiful photos!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Nov 20, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Smug gym rats are really annoying. Glad you ain't one of those, V.

You should meet me in person ; ) If you thought I was annoying online you don't know the half of it.

I ALWAYS wonder about Walter Starr Jrs grave site...

Some good reading:
"The Minarets were the scene of much climbing activity in August 1933, when Walter A. Starr, Jr., was reported overdue from a trip to the Ritter Range. A large search party composed of some of California's finest climbers spent a week in the area, climbing peaks and checking summit registers, continually looking for clues from the missing man. The search was called off on August 19 but Clyde remained, climbing Leonard Minaret and searching the shores of Cecil Lake that day. On August 21 he climbed Clyde Minaret, looking for signs of a fallen climber in the bergschrund along its north glacier. Two days later he searched the cliffs above Amphitheater Lake with binoculars, and continued the search from the summit of Kehrlein Minaret. On August 25 he put all of the clues together, and climbed Michael Minaret via Clyde's Ledge. During the descent a fly droned by, and then another. He moved north, away from the Portal, and turned to face the northwestern side of Michael Minaret. And then he saw the earthly remains of Walter A. Starr, Jr. A few days later, Clyde and Jules Eichorn interred the body on the ledge where it had come to rest, while Starr's father, Walter A. Starr, Sr., watched from below."
-R. J. Secor, The High Sierra, Peaks, Passes, and Trails
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Nov 20, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
Woot woot. Good stuff, Vitaliy - p1 and 2 corners look clean and killer.
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