Trip Report
Castle Crags TR

by tuolumne_tradster
Sunday October 4, 2009 4:59pm
Spent the weekend with Frank Baker and Bill McConachie at Castle Crags State Park. Did Cosmic Wall on Mt Hubris (5.6) on Saturday. This route, which rivals SE Buttress of Cathedral Pk in my opinion, is well worth the 2.5 hr approach. We did it in 5 pitches. P2 thru P5 were high quality, reasonably well-protected, face and dihedral climbing ending in a knife-edge arete to a spectacular summit.

Cosmic wall goes up just left of the two right slanting roofs near the lower right.
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Looking up at P2. Face climbing on steep foliated granite.
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Photo courtesy Frank Baker.
Frank Baker following P2 with Bill McConachie below.
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Bill McConachie & I on the Summit arete
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Photo Courtesy Frank Baker.

On Sunday we did Six-Toe crack (5.8)
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Photo courtesy Bill McConachie
Frank finishing P2.
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Photo courtesy Bill McConachie
Me following the delicate traverse on P2 of Six Toe Crack...Still boggles my mind that Bill McConachie led this and he has no toes.
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Photo Courtesy Bill McConachie

  Trip Report Views: 6,092
tuolumne_tradster 		About the Author
tuolumne_tradster is a trad climber from the leading edge of the North American Plate.

Comments
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Springdale, UT
  May 18, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
very cool TR!! that looks pretty spectacular.
klk

Trad climber
cali
  May 18, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
awesome!

more pix.

adn we want the full tr of debaucherie w. likker and lokal meth in low-budget motel room w. plastic farm animals, hookers, etc.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 19, 2009 - 12:58am PT
Went to Dunsmuir, practically a ghost town, on Sat night to check out the local action...none detected. Ate pasta at the Pizza Parlor and got the runs. Did not encounter any farm animals but we did see a rattle snake on the trail.

Seems Dunsmuir has never recovered from the early 1990s train derailment, toxic chemical spill that killed fish for 40 miles in the Sacto River.

Here are some more pics...

Mt Shasta from the summit of Mt Hubris
Castle Dome from Mt Hubris
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 19, 2009 - 01:32am PT
kewl
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  May 19, 2009 - 02:16am PT
YUM!
sbecker

Sport climber
Meff-ferr, Oregon
  May 19, 2009 - 03:01am PT
"Went to Dunsmuir, practically a ghost town, on Sat night to check out the local action...none detected."

Blue Turtle Seduction played in Dunsmuir on Saturday night. They're always fun to see. That's prolly the most hoppin' I've seen the place... not that I spend much time there.

Glad you had fun at the crags... the place is sweet. I took a lap up Cosmic on Sunday afternoon with some friends. That's one I'll do again and again.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  May 19, 2009 - 04:43am PT
Hello from Ashland! Hope you enjoyed our neighboring crag!!

Truly a couple of awesome days of rock climbing up there.

Next time you are up at Six Toe check out the Grotto right behind it. Some cool, hard and runout mixed sport routes back there. And in the shade all day.

I see you avoided the squeeze. Good call!
Chris2

Trad climber
  May 19, 2009 - 09:44am PT
"Moderate" but extremely run out. Great camping, few people. Good time of the year to go, as there is water nearby the camping location. Pack EVERYTHING out.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 19, 2009 - 10:11am PT
the two routes we did required some creative gear placement but I wouldn't say they were 'run out'...in fact, I sewed up the pitches I lead...don't know about any of the other routes

sbecker: we did see a band setting up in a bar near the pizza place.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  May 19, 2009 - 10:49am PT
Oh yeah ! I need to get back up there. Good job !
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 19, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
Thanks Lambone...yes Bill McConachie opted to go right avoid the off-width but the traverse back left into the crack was exciting
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  May 19, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
Awesome pics! Cosmic Wall is one of my top 5 moderate picks.

Hella good time.

lars
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  May 19, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
very nice, thanks
doktor_g

Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
  May 19, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
This crag does not exist. These photos were doctored.


Just kidding. This place is bitchin'. Cosmic is the best moderate I've ever done... without a doubt. Backcountry skiing, park skiing, ski mountaineering, craggin', bouldering, paddling, fly fishing. Population 4000.

This place sucks.
Zander

climber
  May 19, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
Excellent!
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  May 19, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
Man, way to go!
Looks sweet!

Thor
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 20, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Hey Lambone: what about routes on Castle Dome? Are there any updates to the 1990s vintage Falcon guide?
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
  May 20, 2009 - 01:27am PT
Hey, does Bill have a brother named Bob up there in Hangtown?

That store up there at the Crags has the best tasting, rarest, coolest, bottled micro beer selection in the state, please tell me you picked up a few cases while you were up there?
beautiful approach hiking, ehh?

any plastic on the river?


did you like the freights, or did you not like the freights?
can you hear them on the summit?
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 20, 2009 - 01:42am PT
Dr Sprock: the train whistles were appealing for some strange reason that I can't explain even though they kept waking me up at night. You can hear them on the summit of Mt Hubris. Bill McConachie does have a brother named Bob but I don't think he lives in Hangtown.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  May 20, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
tuolumne_tradster,

The classic route on Castle Dome is the East Face, known as the Dyke Route. Many people say it's the best quality route in Castle Crags, albeit a bit run-out in places above old bolts. Solid 5.10 leader required. I haven't done it yet.

There are other routes on Castle, one goes up the shady North Face. And there are shorter routes adjacent to the Dyke route.

There is a Falcon Guide to Castle, but it is pretty minimal and only has the old routes, there is much more out there, and the Shastafari crew has been establishhing lots of new stuff in the last few years.

Check out this website by Ian, one of the formost route developers in the crags. He puts up hard and bold lines:
http://www.alpineaddict.com/

Also the guys at Shasta Bascamp Gear shop are a good source of beta. Stop by or give them a call.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  May 20, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
I helped out on a route that went up the East Face. I wasn't there when it was finished but the lower pitches were good- mid .11ish as I recall. Dunno about the upper half, but it's supposedly good as well. I think I have a topo if anyone is interested.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 20, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
Lambone: thanks for the info...Dyke route looks interesting although looks a bit run out. Are there opportunities for creative gear placement between the fixed pieces?

I'm gettin' too old to be onthedgeandscaredtodeath....I'd rather be inthegrooveanlovinit
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  May 20, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
Cool post
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  May 20, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
t_t, I haven't done it, but from what I hear there is an occasional piece, but mostly face climbing.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  May 20, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
great tr. I always wondered about this place. drove by it many times on the trek up north. are there hard long routes up there?
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 20, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
martygarrison: there's a 1990's vintage Falcon guide that has some 10s & 11s...Solar Wind is a 5-pitch 10d just left of cosmic wall. Check out the link that Lambone posted above that has topos for some very stout routes.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
  May 20, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
that place is perfect for shrooms, soft velvet pine needle cushion on the trails for barefoot hiking at night, 90 degrees, full moon, fern forests, and absolutely no people.
I think the whole park will accomadate 3 1/2 campers.
And the rangers are pretty laid back.
It's those crags, everybody i know says they look spooky and hold mysterious powers. Total Carlos Castenada country. Ask Bill if Bob owns a yak.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 20, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
found plentiful shrooms growing wildly near Castle Dome...ingested 3 caps and began trippin' like crazy...granite spires started swaying in the wind and morphing into all kinds of weird shapes and some of them took on human-like forms...eventually some biker babes showed up in leather hot pants and bikini tops and offered to carry out our packs...just then Largo and Bridwell appear out of no where and the biker babes dropped our packs and decided to hang out with them.

yes Bill has a brother named Bob that lives near Hangtown
brett

climber
oregon
  May 21, 2009 - 12:35am PT
The Dike Route is outstanding. It follows the amazing quartz feature for 7 quality pitches, maybe 900 feet. My memory is of 20+ foot runouts on sustained 5.8 ground with bolts near the odd 5.9/5.10 move.

Here's someone else's impression
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  May 21, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
Tradster - nice write-up. Those routes are so much fun! Had a fantastic time there with Frank and you.

Lambone: "I see you avoided the squeeze. Good call!"

Right. Was kind of out of large gear.

Wasn't thinking about much of anything but saving weight when I inspected the rack back at the parking lot. We took our light Cosmic Wall rack and doubled up on some of the smaller cams. I think the large end of the rack was 2 #2 camalots and 1 #3. When I saw the route through the trees from the tail, I suddenly remembered that I had read that the 2nd pitch included a stretch of offwidth. Oops!

I had some excellent luck in that Tradster did not make the #3 camalot an integral part of the 1st-pitch belay - excellent because I used the #3 at least 2x before leaving it low in the offwidth -- I had placed it to protect some moves, did the moves, placed smaller gear, and then downclimbed to retrieve the #3 for use in the subsequent wide sections looming overhead. Once in the offwidth, I found myself imagining the peace of mind that might have come with more gear (say: another #3, a #3.5, and 1 or 2 #4 camalots - and maybe even a #5). Not having that gear, nor the peace of mind, and after launching myself upwards into the offwidth several times, I soon opted to downclimb a bit, traverse right and then move up - figuring out how to traverse back across the steep face once I got higher.

Dr. Sprock: "Ask Bill if Bob owns a yak."

No, that sibling does not own a yak, nor a dzo, llama, or an alpaca; although, there are llamas and alpacas on some properties a few miles away.
john bald

climber
  May 21, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
Hey Brett, thanks for forwarding the post of my E Face route. Funny how things change over the years. Buttonheads seemed like a welcome treat after all those runouts (considering the alternative, ie bad gear).
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 21, 2009 - 05:52pm PT
Any rebolting effort going on at Castle Crags? 2-bolt belay above the block at the start of P2 on Cosmic looks like recent bolts.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  May 22, 2009 - 01:00am PT
t_t

That anchor has been there since I've been here, 5 years or so.

RE: six toe crack, I bring asingle set of cams up to #4, it's nice to have double 75-#2. You really only need one number three if you save it. If you do the face variation you don't need a #4.

The two routes adjacent to sox toe are cool too!

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 22, 2009 - 11:28am PT
thanks for the beta Lambone...I led P1 & Bill McC led P2 on 6 toe. Bill 'leap frogged' the #3 a couple of times.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 23, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
Nice pics! Looks like good fun.

I have to add this to my radar for any future road-trips north of SF bay.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  May 24, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
Alpaca bump -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gZ0x8AVaBI
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Oct 4, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
Great trip report and if someone sees Bill McConachie tell him I said hi - I saw him last in El Cap meadow many, many years ago.

Castle Crags brings back fond memories - many that eKat will attest to. As a student at Humboldt State I spent lots of weekends over that way staying at Kathy's cottages in Castella. I also did a bunch of new routes, most of which have faded into obscurity. It has always suprised me that this area, right off a major interstate, has seen so little activity - though it looks like it has been picking up. The one thing most people driving by don't know is that what you see from the highway is a small percentage of the rock - this area is actually pretty extensive.

Paul
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Oct 4, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Such amazing forms to that rock. Hard to believe otherwise there's a 5.6 route up that wall. And these are the first shots I've seen of how sharp the summit ridges are. Gives new meaning to the term arete.

In June I finally pulled off the interstate long enough to walk halfway up there -- to a really good view spot. I'll be back, oh yeah!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Nov 16, 2009 - 11:22am PT
Right on, I looked up Castle Crags in the TR section looking for just this type of thing.
Wish you had taken more pictures during the climbing on Cosmic. It went too fast.
Thanks for a quick glimpse. Very fun.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Nov 27, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
Slater: here's another photo of me leading the 2nd to last pitch on Cosmic
Blakeb

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
  Nov 28, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
Im with my homie Doc G, these are clearly photoshopped or something, this place does not exist.

Psych! Yeah i made to laps on the old cosmic wall this fall as well.
Sure is amazing up there.

First time i climbed six toe we hadnt heard of the traverse around the offwidth and we only had up to a #3 camalot. My bro lowered off the 3 and refused to do it with out gear.

Being a knuckle head i climbed about 8 or 9 feet above the 3 at the bottomw of the offwidth only to be spat out, take a big whipper and get caught with the stretch just in time to barely bang my tail bone on a small ledge below. Nice bruise resulted.

Looked around found the traverse, all was well. Later lambone told me oh man you got in that polished offwidth?? Everyone uses the traverse over to ch*#ks@cker up and around.
Ya live and ya learn.
Nice TR
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Nov 29, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
I love these Castle Crags trip reports. I always figured I would end up living up there, weaverville really, but the good stuff in northern California for sure.

It didn't end up that way, but there is still time.

I wish I knew about the Cosmic wall when I went up there in 90's. That was durning the years there was no guidebook, so we asked around and headed up there with little info, and at that time, little know how.

It's all a big blur, but my partners were non climbers, and I, at the time was a young idiot who would teach anyone to belay if I could get on a route.

We hiked up there, spent the night around the top of the dome. I remember water being an issue. While I don't recall what I did, I remember hiking back down a ways to this spot that I do remember clearly, water flowing over a mossy overhang in a little alcove. I don't know where that was, but I remember it being awesome.

We didn't climb Mt. hubris, it looked hard. We did climb that six toe crack, so we must have had beta on it. I don't remember it, I do remember thinking my belayer, a swiss guy I had been hiking with, and a manic depressive who actually got kicked out of his mandatory swiss army training. Did get to keep his knife? Anyway, I was convinced he was going to get his new found belaying skills tested, and fail.

Besides that, I've always wanted to climb at the crags more.

Thanks for the TR.
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