Red Bud 5.9

 
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Cookie Sheet


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
California climbing
Tuesday January 27, 2015 8:03pm
Donini has a thread, "The Problem with California Climbing" or some such... and it is with a bit of guilt, where a lot of the country is suffering under winter storms, that we get to enjoy a bit of springtime in the winter...

Moonrise on the Rostrum
Moonrise on the Rostrum
Credit: Ed Hartouni

this last weekend was the first time out for me in a long time. I was meeting up with Bela and we were going to do a recon on The Cookie Sheet. The right side had some vexing puzzles to square the topo with a photo

Right side of The Cookie Sheet
Right side of The Cookie Sheet
Credit: Ed Hartouni

The red line is the approach, the blue line on the left is the route Red Bud 5.9 which was our path of discovery, as it were. Climbing the topo is always a good way to get stuff straight.

Bela pulls the first lead, an excellent layback with strategically located knobs and a really interesting crux. Hopefully someone won't break it! But he was through his lead and at the belay pretty quickly. This pitch seems to be shared with Air Line, that route forking off to the right just after the crux, our route to the left.

Bela on p1 of Red Bud, about to start the laybacking
Bela on p1 of Red Bud, about to start the laybacking
Credit: Ed Hartouni

Above this really nice pitch is a lot of slab, two pitches of it to get to a block stance which is the belay for the last pitch... here's Bela after having lead p3 with me at the p2 belay anchors

Credit: Ed Hartouni

the great expanse of the cliff rising above the sheet.


The last pitch has some interesting bits to it, all in all a more interesting route than many over on The Cookie Sheet...

we rapped down Air Line and did the last pitch on top rope, which is also a fine, interesting pitch;

the right side seems to have more features, and a bit more difficulty climbs. I'd give this route a star, it's worth doing.



On Sunday, we ended up in a gang to do some cragging. Bela had the rare Sunday, and he wanted to lead Stone Groove 5.10b at Reed's. He proceeded to do just that

Bela leading Stone Groove
Bela leading Stone Groove
Credit: Ed Hartouni

putting the rope up for us all to do many laps...

it was amazing, temperature around 70F and everyone basking

Credit: Ed Hartouni

though attentive when belaying!

In fact, there was some complaining that it was too warm... so we went down for a round at Generator Crack, where it was 40F. Putting hand in crack it was also obvious that the sun hadn't visited that part of the Valley for a while. But the nice thing about laps on Generator Crack is that it induces an instant body heat... everyone made progress on their attempts, but at some point it was time to go back up into the sun, enjoy a beer and some snacks, and head home.

Great weekend with great partners - warm memories.

  Trip Report Views: 3,110
Ed Hartouni
About the Author
Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.

Comments
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Jan 27, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
As always your pics are great and your thread fun to read. Cheers that you and friends are out doing it.

Hope you were kidding about the guilt and weather. We don't control it and we sure could use some here in Callie. Happy New Year, Friend. lynnie
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Jan 27, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
Sounds fun! It's been really warm in Colorado lately, too. Tee shirt and shorts climbing yesterday. Summer in January.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
  Jan 27, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
It was a warm sunday, even a couple hundred miles north and east. Looks like a good time was had by all.

I know where Stone Groove is having done it the last time nearly forty years ago when it was rated .10a and all we had was hexes and stoppers, but where is this Cookie Sheet?

EDIT: thanks. It looks like a small hike from the road at the Cookies base. A similarity up north this weekend was that it was toasty in the direct SW, but as soon as you stepped into the shade the sweaters and hats came out in the absense of downwelling LW.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 27, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
Lovely, Ed. I was sweating in a t-shirt at the Cookie on Sunday afternoon while my wife and daughter bundled up to skate in the shadow of Glacier Pt. What a difference the shade makes.

If you were to pick a single route to take an excited six-year-old climber up at the Cookie Sheet, which would it be? (No big traverses for the second, semi-comfortable belay stances, moderate difficulty)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 27, 2015 - 09:25pm PT

for an excited 6 year old, I'd probably do Dark Side or Slipstream, the routes on the extreme left side that do not require the 3rd class traverse to get to the base of... I think those would be a fun outing, they're relatively short and a lot of adventure.

just the approach should be a great adventure for a 6 year old, play "spot the cairn"

T H

Boulder climber
ne'erdowell
  Jan 27, 2015 - 09:30pm PT
Neat deal -- lub dat chock-stone in the first foto.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Jan 27, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
Nice to see some info on the Cookie Sheet!

Holy Crikey le_bruce, 6 years old... How the time doth fly.

While y'all were baking in Yosemite, I was wet barefoot bouldering the left skyline of this:

The harshest winter Mark Twain ever experienced may have been a summer in San Francisco, but the winter in SF makes up for it.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Jan 27, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
cool pics, i love the cookie sheet, need to go back and climb a few more routes there. cheers.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jan 28, 2015 - 03:20am PT
hey there say, ed... wow, i love this... yep, it is COLD out here, but, a good ol' gal from calif, ALWAYS appreciates seeing nice warm sunshines...

great pics, great trip, thank you so much for sharing!!!
:)
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Jan 28, 2015 - 06:03am PT
Nice recon Ed!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jan 28, 2015 - 09:54am PT
Stoked,! thanx! as i run out the door with the kid to catch the late school bus!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 28, 2015 - 07:18am PT
-as always!

T-shirt weather in Indian creek this weekend as well! Sadly my bottom layer was a rugby shirt and I got cooked!

clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Jan 28, 2015 - 07:24am PT
We will have to check the Cookie sheet out. Thanks Ed.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Jan 28, 2015 - 07:35am PT
Nice Ed. The Cookie Sheet is an interesting crag, for sure. Don't miss the approach ledge!

I'll need to try those on the right side, the do look a bit more intriguing than the main sheet.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Jan 28, 2015 - 08:33am PT
I was totally unaware of the Cookie Sheet. Cool looking formation. Thanks for the TR.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jan 28, 2015 - 08:50am PT
Looks like big fun Ed!

Thanks for the TR, Lower canyon at it's finest.

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 28, 2015 - 09:15am PT
On Saturday evening, I grunted up one more lap on the Waverly in the twilight and then hurried up to Curry - I was still in a t-shirt with beads of sweat on my forehead when I took this picture. What a contrast. That's winter climbing in Yosemite for you.


Thanks for the recommendations, Ed. We'll see how they go next weekend. Following in the footsteps of Jim and Kara! Haha.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 28, 2015 - 09:40am PT
laps on Generator Crack

Oooooooooo now we are talking! :)
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jan 28, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
Thanks Ed for introducing us to new routes!

Great pic of Linda! No belay critiques yet?

Looks like a bunch a multi-pitch moderate routes on the sheet! Yea!


JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jan 28, 2015 - 10:54am PT
As always, Ed. thank you for your excellent trip report. I particularly appreciated the pictures of the Cookie Sheet. I last climbed there in February of 1973, near the left side. It's an interesting, non-threatening, area with both friction and knobs. Maybe too easy, but great fun.

John
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 28, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
Thanks Ed, your posts never disappoint!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Mar 9, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
Bump to the top for a fun and interesting TR. TFPU
(I guess global warming has an up side...heh)
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Mar 9, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
Topo is available here - Thanks BS and CC! See you on the sheet!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-cookie-sheet/106671314

phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Mar 9, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
Oh, I missed this first time out...
Very nice Ed.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Mar 10, 2015 - 05:38am PT
Great little TR, Ed.

I'm soooooo jonesing for a little CA climbing right now. Thank you!
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Cookie Sheet - Red Bud 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris Van Leuven
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