Typically, the name of the route is created after the climb, but this time was different. Going in 40 Celsius degree heat, inhale clouds of the Baltoro dust, from time to time we shouted spontaneously: Bushido! Bushido! Bushido!
For sure we had a fighting mood, but not against something, or against somebody, it was supposed to be fighting for something and also like a movie with Bruce Lee _ fight with no fight. We stood against everything that stood against us and we were on our way to Great Trango Tower. We had to be ready,and we were ready, prepared, focused on the wall, which in a fact was waiting for us. Our fight was like a peace in the front of aggression and normality in the turmoil of madness ...
29th of July, with the whole necessary gear, we got to Trango Base Camp.
Our heavy dry food...
Dealing with all problems we realized that, it was some kind of unity we felt. No fears or doubts divided our attitudes.
The next day after we got the BC, we started to carry loads to the wall base. We did not want to rest and admire the view, our goal was only the wall and it was the most important. Aman (our guide) got a virus of the commitment helped us to carry all stuff. Thanks to him, we saved two days and we could fix 8 pitches.
Choosing the line is always a question that needs to be directed at the wall,so we asked and nothing could stop us in looking for the answer...
The evening before the the start of the climb is always full of questions that everyone has to answer...
We said goodbye to Aman (guide) and Abid (cook),and all that things, that could provide us scatter were left behind.
The first day was difficult. Hauling by eight pitches in unbearable heat and sloping rock was truly killing, but we proceeded as steam locomotive, in harmonious rhythm and coordinated moves like on Baffin Island in the last year.
At Camp I we had a feeling, that we left the world behind us ...
I could not wait for morning, because above us was a beautiful corner, which was supposed to be my first lead on the route.
Somewhere there, I took my first fall on the Trango. The beak was weak ...
Yeti leads in the next day...
We had the water problem, because of so sunny and dry days. Since the day one, we had to carry a water, but we finished just before the Camp II, so the wall answered on out request...
The climbing is not the art of suffering only...
...but hauling is
We got to Terraces with a old snow, and even fresh snow, so we had enough water
We did not complain because of the weather, we just climb every day
The first pitch on the head wall reminded me my last year climb on Native Son
The clean corner lead us to the Camp IV
The next day we spent on hauling out stuff to the Camp IV and we set the portaledge
That was the last Camp on the wall, so we had to climb and jug up every day till the end of the route
Because of altitude and no acclimatization sometimes we had some headaches and the food tasted even worse, than really was
Every day we tell ourselves "we need a one rest day" and each morning, after breakfast we start climbing ...
That was impressive lead of Yeti...
Even jugging on that pitches was exciting
Leading of the steep and clean cracks of the Azeem Ridge route made me happy...
We are about fifteen days on the wall. Thoughts diverge, but rather flee. The former holiday in Provence and we strongly Canyon Verdon, loneliness in Native Son, fireplace in the house...
On the other side of the glacier to Uli Biaho blinking light. A head torch flashlights are greetings from the Russians. I answer and I fall asleep.
Allah Akbar ... Early in the morning, Martin still asleep, when I hear from the base base sunrise Takbir. I remember how, Aman said
Next day we are back on the upper headwall...
18th of August we had our first and only rest day on the expedition, because the next day was the summit attack day.
Initially we wanted to take on the challenge and climb the ridge to the main summit of Great Trango Tower, but reality soon checked our dreams. Summit day was the worst day on the route: windy snowstorm and frozen gear slowed us down and in the middle of the night we decided to finish at the point marked on our topo. Marcin was at the highest point of the last pitch, when I called him back. It was a very cold night and we definitely didn't have a chance of climbing to the main summit, but we are nevertheless happy with what was possible and with what we achieved. We rappelled back down to the portaledge after 24 hours of constant climbing. The raps were one of the biggest challenges in our mountain careers. The ropes were totally frozen and stiff; snow and hail covered all gear. We reached the portaledge extremely exhausted with two last ropes left. As a team, if you combine our trips to Polar Sun Spire and Great Trango Tower, we have spent over 50 days on a big wall, but that was the only night, that we just lay there in our sleeping bags, without having the energy to cook something to drink or eat.
The storm hit us completely by surprise. The morning was cold and foggy, but OK nevertheless. But that afternoon and the night were really bad, I should say horrible... Ironically, the day before we had very good weather and it turned beautiful again after our final stormy day. As I said before, climbing is always a game comprised of many factors and we need to respect nature and what she gives us.
The day after we rappelled to the Terraces
..and in the next day, after 17 rapps, we reached the base of the wall and we met out friends: Aman and Abid who came with drinks and food. What was most important for us, they help us to carry down all our gear.
Yeti lead more, Yeti eats more...
Next day morning Yeti's slackline exercise
Now is the time for change
Everytime Yeti does a new route, he goes to the local barber shop...
So I bought some Hunza carpet in Skardu in the last day before the trip to Islamabad
Yes, we need to go via KKH (Karakoram Highway), because our flight was cancelled
The road doesn't look like a highway, even on the best length
The safety is another concern
We had some super-assistant, but can you feel really safe next to guy with a gun...?
We passed the NP area...
Since the beginning of this year, we had for GTT project fantastic team of three : David Allfrey, Marcin and myself, but let to speak David:
I was supposed to bring a lot of the gear, the portaledge, the dehydrated food (and a lot of other food). I put these guys in a tough place when I decided to back out, and I felt bad about that. It was a horribly hard decision.
That was the seven breaths decision for each of us...
Smiling kid in Askoli made our day
Aman became our friend and he made this trip safe and funny. Thank you.
Coming out of Askoli, the last village from which begins a three days trekking to the base camp, we had a sense of relief. Among the mountains we felt like at home, although it lasted only a moment, because just beyond the village we met guys with guns on arms. Aman immediately reassured us that these are the Pakistani army soldiers patrol at the time, but how can you believe if they were in ordinary clothes? We greeted each other, and they invited us for group photos. Then Aman asked them to postpone their guns, which pleased us more than posing in front of their phones. They started to laugh at us with their phones music. To be honest we did not like that music as they did, but step by step we started casually navigate their rhythm. Laugh, joy and enthusiasm that suddenly embraced us at a frantic dance shouting, laughing and jumping up and down ...
The Porters were tough, proud and smiling
Skardu Macciapata restaurant
In Askoli Tea Shop
Umbrella, ella, ella...
We just had a deal of the week
Back in the BC. Those two guys made out trip great. Thank you.
In that day, Yeti asked me about my plans after the Bushido. I didn't have to count my breaths answering immediately:
I am going to the Valley...
Special thanks for all our sponsors and simply for guys who support us in our crazy climbs:
Maria, Nathan, Piotr, Pawel, Rick, Grzegorz, Wojtek i Wspolnicy and our Families and Friends.
PZA (Polish Alpine Association)
Mountain Boot Company ( Grivel UK, Edelweiss UK)
Beyond Hope (Metolius UK)
Also thank you for perfect cooperation: North Pakistan Adventure ( Ishaq, Aman, Abid).
If you have any questions please email me or visit our websites: