Trip Report
Bushido (Great Trango Tower, August 2013)
Wednesday September 25, 2013 8:24pm
In the words of the ancients, one should make his decision within the space of seven breaths. It is a matter of being determined and having the spirit to break through to the other side
– Jim Jarmush (Ghost Dog)
Credit: Regan

Typically, the name of the route is created after the climb, but this time was different. Going in 40 Celsius degree heat, inhale clouds of the Baltoro dust, from time to time we shouted spontaneously: Bushido! Bushido! Bushido!
Credit: Regan

For sure we had a fighting mood, but not against something, or against somebody, it was supposed to be fighting for something and also like a movie with Bruce Lee _ fight with no fight. We stood against everything that stood against us and we were on our way to Great Trango Tower. We had to be ready,and we were ready, prepared, focused on the wall, which in a fact was waiting for us. Our fight was like a peace in the front of aggression and normality in the turmoil of madness ...
29th of July, with the whole necessary gear, we got to Trango Base Camp.
Credit: Regan

Our heavy dry food...
Credit: Regan

Dealing with all problems we realized that, it was some kind of unity we felt. No fears or doubts divided our attitudes.
Credit: Regan

The next day after we got the BC, we started to carry loads to the wall base. We did not want to rest and admire the view, our goal was only the wall and it was the most important. Aman (our guide) got a virus of the commitment helped us to carry all stuff. Thanks to him, we saved two days and we could fix 8 pitches.
Credit: Regan

Choosing the line is always a question that needs to be directed at the wall,so we asked and nothing could stop us in looking for the answer...
Credit: Regan

The evening before the the start of the climb is always full of questions that everyone has to answer...
Credit: Regan

We said goodbye to Aman (guide) and Abid (cook),and all that things, that could provide us scatter were left behind.
The first day was difficult. Hauling by eight pitches in unbearable heat and sloping rock was truly killing, but we proceeded as steam locomotive, in harmonious rhythm and coordinated moves like on Baffin Island in the last year.
At Camp I we had a feeling, that we left the world behind us ...
Credit: Regan

I could not wait for morning, because above us was a beautiful corner, which was supposed to be my first lead on the route.
Credit: Regan

Somewhere there, I took my first fall on the Trango. The beak was weak ...
Credit: Regan

Yeti leads in the next day...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

We had the water problem, because of so sunny and dry days. Since the day one, we had to carry a water, but we finished just before the Camp II, so the wall answered on out request...
Credit: Regan

The climbing is not the art of suffering only...
Credit: Regan

...but hauling is
Credit: Regan

We got to Terraces with a old snow, and even fresh snow, so we had enough water
Credit: Regan

We did not complain because of the weather, we just climb every day
Credit: Regan

The first pitch on the head wall reminded me my last year climb on Native Son
Credit: Regan

The clean corner lead us to the Camp IV
Credit: Regan

The next day we spent on hauling out stuff to the Camp IV and we set the portaledge
Credit: Regan

That was the last Camp on the wall, so we had to climb and jug up every day till the end of the route
Credit: Regan

Because of altitude and no acclimatization sometimes we had some headaches and the food tasted even worse, than really was
Credit: Regan

Every day we tell ourselves "we need a one rest day" and each morning, after breakfast we start climbing ...
That was impressive lead of Yeti...
Credit: Regan

Even jugging on that pitches was exciting
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Leading of the steep and clean cracks of the Azeem Ridge route made me happy...
Credit: Regan

We are about fifteen days on the wall. Thoughts diverge, but rather flee. The former holiday in Provence and we strongly Canyon Verdon, loneliness in Native Son, fireplace in the house...

On the other side of the glacier to Uli Biaho blinking light. A head torch flashlights are greetings from the Russians. I answer and I fall asleep.

Allah Akbar ... Early in the morning, Martin still asleep, when I hear from the base base sunrise Takbir. I remember how, Aman said
we will pray for you ...
Credit: Regan

Next day we are back on the upper headwall...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

18th of August we had our first and only rest day on the expedition, because the next day was the summit attack day.
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Initially we wanted to take on the challenge and climb the ridge to the main summit of Great Trango Tower, but reality soon checked our dreams. Summit day was the worst day on the route: windy snowstorm and frozen gear slowed us down and in the middle of the night we decided to finish at the point marked on our topo. Marcin was at the highest point of the last pitch, when I called him back. It was a very cold night and we definitely didn't have a chance of climbing to the main summit, but we are nevertheless happy with what was possible and with what we achieved. We rappelled back down to the portaledge after 24 hours of constant climbing. The raps were one of the biggest challenges in our mountain careers. The ropes were totally frozen and stiff; snow and hail covered all gear. We reached the portaledge extremely exhausted with two last ropes left. As a team, if you combine our trips to Polar Sun Spire and Great Trango Tower, we have spent over 50 days on a big wall, but that was the only night, that we just lay there in our sleeping bags, without having the energy to cook something to drink or eat.
The storm hit us completely by surprise. The morning was cold and foggy, but OK nevertheless. But that afternoon and the night were really bad, I should say horrible... Ironically, the day before we had very good weather and it turned beautiful again after our final stormy day. As I said before, climbing is always a game comprised of many factors and we need to respect nature and what she gives us.

The day after we rappelled to the Terraces
Credit: Regan

..and in the next day, after 17 rapps, we reached the base of the wall and we met out friends: Aman and Abid who came with drinks and food. What was most important for us, they help us to carry down all our gear.
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Welcome dinner
Credit: Regan
Eaten to the last piece of the food
Credit: Regan
And the winners cake
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Yeti lead more, Yeti eats more...
Credit: Regan

Next day morning Yeti's slackline exercise
Credit: Regan

And Regan's
Credit: Regan

Now is the time for change
Credit: Regan

Everytime Yeti does a new route, he goes to the local barber shop...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

So I bought some Hunza carpet in Skardu in the last day before the trip to Islamabad
Credit: Regan

KKH
Yes, we need to go via KKH (Karakoram Highway), because our flight was cancelled
Credit: Regan

The road doesn't look like a highway, even on the best length
Credit: Regan

The safety is another concern
Credit: Regan

We had some super-assistant, but can you feel really safe next to guy with a gun...?
Credit: Regan

We passed the NP area...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

David
Since the beginning of this year, we had for GTT project fantastic team of three : David Allfrey, Marcin and myself, but let to speak David:

After the attack on Nanga Parbat I spent over two weeks doing nothing but thinking about this and gathering information. When the last American group that I knew who was also heading to Pakistan decided to cancel, guys who had been multiple times, I was really scared. In the end I decided that I just couldn't put my family and friends through the stress of the unknown while I was off 'playing' in this place that everyone viewed as being so dangerous. I decided it was one thing to accept the risks of the mountains, but it was different to take on the risks of traveling to regions actively attacking mountaineers (for the first time ever) and being murdered by terrorists.

I was supposed to bring a lot of the gear, the portaledge, the dehydrated food (and a lot of other food). I put these guys in a tough place when I decided to back out, and I felt bad about that. It was a horribly hard decision.

That was the seven breaths decision for each of us...

People

Smiling kid in Askoli made our day
Credit: Regan

Aman became our friend and he made this trip safe and funny. Thank you.
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Coming out of Askoli, the last village from which begins a three days trekking to the base camp, we had a sense of relief. Among the mountains we felt like at home, although it lasted only a moment, because just beyond the village we met guys with guns on arms. Aman immediately reassured us that these are the Pakistani army soldiers patrol at the time, but how can you believe if they were in ordinary clothes? We greeted each other, and they invited us for group photos. Then Aman asked them to postpone their guns, which pleased us more than posing in front of their phones. They started to laugh at us with their phones music. To be honest we did not like that music as they did, but step by step we started casually navigate their rhythm. Laugh, joy and enthusiasm that suddenly embraced us at a frantic dance shouting, laughing and jumping up and down ...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

The Porters were tough, proud and smiling
Credit: Regan

Skardu Macciapata restaurant
Credit: Regan

In Askoli Tea Shop
Credit: Regan

Umbrella, ella, ella...
Credit: Regan

We just had a deal of the week
Credit: Regan

Back in the BC. Those two guys made out trip great. Thank you.
Credit: Regan

In that day, Yeti asked me about my plans after the Bushido. I didn't have to count my breaths answering immediately:
I am going to the Valley...

Bushido
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Special thanks for all our sponsors and simply for guys who support us in our crazy climbs:
Maria, Nathan, Piotr, Pawel, Rick, Grzegorz, Wojtek i Wspolnicy and our Families and Friends.

PZA (Polish Alpine Association)
Mountain Boot Company ( Outdoor Research UK, Grivel UK, Edelweiss UK)
Zamberlan
Beyond Hope (Metolius UK)
Hi Mountain
Atest

Also thank you for perfect cooperation: North Pakistan Adventure ( Ishaq, Aman, Abid).
If you have any questions please email me or visit our websites:
http://reganclimbing.com
https://www.facebook.com/MarcinTomaszwewski





  Trip Report Views: 3,299
Regan
About the Author
Regan is a big wall climber from Poland.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
  Sep 25, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Word! Congrats Regan!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Sep 25, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Good show! Thanks for the TR.
Bad Climber

climber
  Sep 25, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Your assess are so freakin' bad.

Massive congrats! I'll never climb something like that, but it's great to be taken along for the ride. What an adventure.

BAd
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 25, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Excellent!
Hugh of Lincoln

climber
South Carolina
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
Fantastic adventure. Thanks for sharing.
eKat

Trad climber
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
HolyMcGuillicutty!

Whoa!

I wish the photos were numbered so I could comment on each one. . . but. . . ya know. . . the comments would all be pretty much the same. . . somethin' like. . .

HOLY McGUILLICUTTY!

WHOA!

:-)

TFPU!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
World class as always Marek!!!!
Thank you , we all live our dreams through your TRs!!!!!
10b4me

climber
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
Great job, TFPU
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Badazz and GREAT PICS!
WBraun

climber
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
Regan reminds me so much of Charlie Porter .....
skywalker

climber
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Holy shnitzelfutz!!! Will have to go through that with more time. Congrats!!!!! Proud is an understatement of an understatement! What ever that means.

Thanks!!!!

S...
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Any average 5 minutes for you guys on that wall, and the whole process of getting there and back in one piece, would be a highlight epic life story of ultimate climbing adventure for me. You're the kings of casual and understated story-telling!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Hell yeah! Thanks for sharing your grand adventure!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Great write up, great pictures, great TR!

Thank you!
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
you guys are so consistently bad ass! Congrats on all your groovy trips!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Sep 25, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
I've been looking forward to this report. Absolutely amazing! Thanks so much for posting.

lars
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Sep 25, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Powerful, emotional, uplifting and very inspiring TR, Marek!

Great work on an incredible, unforgettable adventure!!
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Sep 25, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
You lads kicked some serious arse....What an adventure....Thanx for sharing it...........

Stevo
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
  Sep 25, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
Great trip report. You guys are getting out there and getting it done in a big way!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Sep 25, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
You guys are pumped!! Way to get after it!!

PAUL
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Sep 25, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
Excellent TR ! wow
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Sep 25, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Epic! Did you make a video with the gopro you were carrying? I'd love to see that too.

Thanks for sharing such a cool experience!
Crack-N-Up

Big Wall climber
South of the Mason Dixon line
  Sep 26, 2013 - 02:26am PT
Excellent photos, great story, looks like a ton of fun.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Sep 26, 2013 - 02:56am PT
Looks like a great adventure. Good one. Congratulations!!

cheers from the Trango club!
FortMentäl

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
  Sep 26, 2013 - 10:27am PT
We did not complain because of the weather, we just climb every day

People say that in California too!





Nice report. So.... you guys like it hot or cold?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Sep 26, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Very good Report, perfect element for you two.

Thanks again for another high quality TR from your journey.

Bravo.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Sep 26, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
True adventure! Fantastic write-up.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  Sep 26, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Awesome!

Pakistan gas station and mini-mart:

Credit: ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
  Sep 26, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Wow that was something. Thanks.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Sep 26, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Wow. Incredible effort. Congrats!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Sep 26, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
When I see your name come out on a TR I know I'm going to go on a wild adventure that I may never imagine without you to bring me there! On the edge of the world we know, for sure. Thanks Regan for always the Best Trip Report!!!!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Sep 26, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Awesome... Once more the stuff dreams are made of... TFPU!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Sep 26, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Marek and Marcin,

Congrats on a huge route! Thanks also for the postcards. I got one when you started and one when you returned. Can't believe what you guys have accomplished yet again.

Cheers,
Doug
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Sep 26, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Bad Ass
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Sep 26, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
Wow...just WOW...thank you for sharing this here =)
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Sep 26, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
oi, kay i admit it,
im a worthless drunk
that cant make it past 8 am
without imbibing,
and my bountiful poursuits are
foiled by my enjoyable habit,
i could be achieving, otherwise.
like regan,

congratulations, boys,
on seeking, realizing, executing, enduring
and then reflecting upon
a hell of an accomplishment.

may the mountains continue to
fill your cup.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
  Sep 28, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
F*#kin A Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tom Carter

Social climber
  Sep 29, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Thanks!!!
treez

Trad climber
99827
  Sep 29, 2013 - 12:52am PT
I'll type to that.

Awesome.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Sep 29, 2013 - 01:30am PT
BAD ASS.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Sep 29, 2013 - 01:44am PT
Great pics! Sick route!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Sep 29, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
Best TR in a long time. Thanks so much.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Sep 29, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Proud Effort Guys!

Great looking route and superb TR!

Thanks for sharing your adventure with us!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Sep 29, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
Damn.


What a piece of rock. Mega, mega TR. cheers.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Sep 29, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
WOW!! AWESOME!! TFPU!!
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Sep 29, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
so cool! that looks so gnarly!!!!!!!! bad ass!!!!!! good seeing you at the bridge in yosemite, have fun on chaos!!!!
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:18am PT
Wow, just WOW. What a great adventure. Thanks for sharing Regan!
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Sep 30, 2013 - 11:55am PT
An awesome adventure. You guys kick serious ass. TFPU.
When I was younger I'd dream of nightmares like this now I think I just pooped myself a little. Thanks for sharing the Grand Life.
Deekaid

climber
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
I have to get busy but I will finish this read for sure! You are doing what most of us will only get to dream of.

Thanks most of all for something about actual climbing.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
huge wall! nice job!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Sep 30, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Fantastic! Great Attitudes! It's almost as if you weren't over 20,000 on an overhanging wall in the Himalaya in a storm!

peace

Karl
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
  Sep 30, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Great story. Maybe someday if there is enough global warming I will head out there. Also would need to increase the air pressure though. I imagine hauling multiple bags at 20,000 ft is not easy to do.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Sep 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
bump for the real deal!
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  Sep 30, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
Wow, what a dream climb. Congratulations!!
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
  Oct 1, 2013 - 01:43am PT
thanks for posting up. AWESOME TR
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Oct 1, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
Cant wait till I read the whole report...AWESOME so far. Thank you for including so much info..
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Oct 27, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Hi folks,

Thanks for all congrats and comments. I just came back from the Valley and I found some video about our trip:



Again, many thanks!

Marek
nopantsben

climber
  Oct 25, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
holy sh#t. well done!! sweet tr as well, thanks for that.
good luck with whatever is next.
Dick Danger

Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
  Oct 25, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
BADASSERY fo sure! Well done fellas!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 25, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Fantastic achievement and very entertaining writing! Dziękuję!!!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Oct 25, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
Missed this 1st time. Wow! Between this one and the Baffin trip, I'd vote your trips as the most hardcore TR's I've read in a long time....
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Oct 25, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Climbing ronin living ghetto creed: bushido walks, loaded gats talk.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  Oct 25, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
My favorite trip report of all time! You guys are keeping the torch lit big time! Buenas!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Oct 25, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Great video regan!

WOOhOOOOO!

Chopped cords and ereythang!
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
  Oct 25, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Very impressive and great trip report. Truly inspirational.
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
  Oct 26, 2013 - 12:11am PT
Regan you are awesome!! Pure adventure plussssss!! Nicely done.

Great to see you in the valley - I trust Kaos was good!
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