Trip Report
Brassnuts and Edge's Excellent Adventure.

by Edge
Monday June 9, 2014 11:22pm
Gotta love the Taco. I got an email from Dave (Brassnuts) asking me if I'd like to climb today as the weather looked good. Turns out our new apartment my wife & I just moved into is two good golf shots from Dave's home (maybe 3; I suck at golf), so in the neighborly spirit I had to skip work and join him for the day. It took me 5 minutes to walk over this morning; it would have been quicker but I stopped to admire the S Boulder wildlife.

Shake your tail feathers.
Shake your tail feathers.
Credit: Edge

We decided on Lumpy Ridge as I had only climbed there twice before, both times in the early 80's. Unfortunately the roadwork on the drive in delayed us 45 minutes, setting the stage for a leisurely pace. A stroll in the park, really.

Voila!
Voila!
Credit: Edge

Approaching the Book.
Approaching the Book.
Credit: Edge

We started on FEMP, and Dave drew the incredible 5.9 fingers & hand crack.

We be jammin.
We be jammin.
Credit: Edge

Team 106 (combined ages)

High on the Book.
High on the Book.
Credit: Edge

This also put Dave in line to lead the impeccable finger crack finish of Cheap Date for P4.

Cheap Date.
Cheap Date.
Credit: Edge

The walk off was painful in our climbing shoes.

The wages of leaving your shoes at the base.
The wages of leaving your shoes at the base.
Credit: Edge

One of the two climbs I had done 32 years ago was J Crack. John Rosholt had lead all the pitches, and I recall it being scary and hard. Dave suggests we go for it, and asks if I want the long 5.9 pitch or the crux pitch. Dammit, I have to redeem myself, I'll take the crux.

J Crack, oh yeah!
J Crack, oh yeah!
Credit: Edge

Dave follows the .10a runout traverse.
Dave follows the .10a runout traverse.
Credit: Edge

We finished via the Cave Exit, probably the most awkward and difficult 5.7 I've ever done. It was the closest to falling I came all day. At least it deposited us on the descent trail.

Summit shot.
Summit shot.
Credit: Edge

Brassnuts was trying to get used to his new helmet.

Brain bucket fever. Catch it.
Brain bucket fever. Catch it.
Credit: Edge

Another painful descent in TC Pros and we were back at the packs. 9 pitches was enough, we leave to go home.

The Book. Read all about it.
The Book. Read all about it.
Credit: Edge

"For every step you take into the forest, you must make as many to return."

Almost there.
Almost there.
Credit: Edge

Thanks to Brassnuts for the inspiration and invitation! Cheers.

Iris.
Iris.
Credit: Edge

  Trip Report Views: 1,342
Edge
About the Author
Edge is a trad climber from Boulder, CO.

Comments
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jun 9, 2014 - 11:32pm PT
excellent indeed!


and I like the brain-bucket!!
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Jun 9, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
TFPU!

Andrzej
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 10, 2014 - 12:41am PT
Good job you guys! Looks like some great climbing. TFPU.
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:37am PT
Thanks for a look back at beautiful Boulder county![or is it Larimer?]
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:28am PT
Sweet!
TFPU
Tad
Sketch

Trad climber
Not FortMental
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:30am PT
Thanks Edge. Good TR. Great pics.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Jun 10, 2014 - 05:33am PT
Having great neighbors sure makes for a great community! I sure need to get out there one of these days, thanks for a climbing post!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 10, 2014 - 05:47am PT
Haha nice! I think the cave exit is the best part!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:18am PT
Bravo! I was surprised that BN forgot his camera - so happy you had yours. I'm equally happy with his newest piece of climbing gear - his helmet. :)

What an amazing day weather wise! Glad you are in the neighborhood Edge. I imagine there are many more TRs in the future.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:26am PT
Ahh, the Boulder lifestyle! Lucky boys! TFPU
eKat

Trad climber
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:27am PT
WOW. . . fantastic!

Edge, I think Boulder is good for you!

:-)

TFPU!
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:46am PT
Haha nice! I think the cave exit is the best part!

Jaybro, that's just twisted. I figure it's one of those moves that's harder for tall people and Brassnuts put me on it* to make up for me placing tall gear in the J Crack headwall before launching into the traverse.

*BN will deny this.

Edge, I think Boulder is good for you!

Ain't that the truth! I love where I live and am grateful every day.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:49am PT
awesome edge,
i'm pretty sure i did that exact same
linkup to the cave exit
many years ago with cousin robby.

maybe we started on fat-city...
that was a good pitch.

thanks for taking me along.

estes is great stomping grounds.

you should check out the y-colouir on mt. ypsilon.
and also the notch colouir on longs is a good day.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:08am PT
Good stuff, glad you found a cool partner near by, sounds like many adventures to come, glad you guys had a great time, place looks awesome!! Still have to make it out to CO.
eKat

Trad climber
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:10am PT
Ain't that the truth! I love where I live and am grateful every day.

Therein lies the key, Edge. . . therein lies the key!

:-)
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:14am PT
Nice edge. Been to Estes quite a bit as I have to brothers that live in winter park, but somehow we never seem to get much done at lumpy. Those both look like great routes. How was the traverse?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:22am PT
Sweet!

Late start + Lumpy hike + 9 pitches + hard pitches = Awesomeness!

We did that hike enough times a few years back. Well worth it though.
Good job fellas!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:32am PT
Nice!

You youngsters sure do love to play.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:41am PT
awesome! thank you for posting!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:45am PT
Nice!, J-Crack, that brought back memories, especially that you did it before with The Gambler, miss him.

BITD when I first did J-Crack my partner was wearing his brand new EB's and I was in my RR blue suede shoes. He was bitchin about foot cramps most the way, I just stuck those Robbins nose first, straight in that bottoming crack and my feet were happy the whole time.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:50am PT
tfpu
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:52am PT

Yay for climbing content, photos of Lumpy and of course duck butts!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jun 10, 2014 - 07:53am PT
^^ Agreed. The duck butts were a sweet surprise. :)
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:35am PT
Good fun craggin with neighbor Edge, a beautiful June day! I hadn't seen the post flood damage/clean up in N. St. Vrain canyon or upper Estes Valley (Twin Sisters area) - incredible, major reconstruction, huge slides etc.

Today my feet are reminding me of Lumpy's flared cracks ;-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:40am PT
For a second there I got all excited and thought BN had taken you birding.
Oh, well, what y'all did looked like an acceptable alternative, even if you
did have to put up with the conditions.
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
  Jun 10, 2014 - 08:41am PT
LOVE the cave exit!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jun 10, 2014 - 09:09am PT
Another idyllic Springtime in the Rockies tableau!
Nice.
So ... Did you guys hold hands? hahahaha

I remember that about Femp too Dave. This was my first route at Lumpy and with Katy Cassidy partnering.
The thing is like a lowish angled V-shaped trough lined with crystals that kind of chew on your feet. At the time I wished I were instead hanging out of a steeper crack. Yosemite sure can spoil first impressions of other granite areas!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 10, 2014 - 09:21am PT
Looks like a lot of fun!! But the camera is a little fuzzy :(
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 10, 2014 - 09:47am PT
nice job "Team 106"!!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jun 10, 2014 - 09:51am PT
Thanks.

Helmet looks... funny.... brassnuts.

I have one just like it ;)

DMT
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 09:56am PT
Looks like tooooo much fun! Getting out in the middle of the work week. Good job.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Jun 10, 2014 - 10:02am PT

Excellent TR. Stay strong - the skull will evolve to fit the helmet in due time...
dagibbs

Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
  Jun 10, 2014 - 10:20am PT
Looks awesome!
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
  Jun 10, 2014 - 11:47am PT
Most Excellent!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 10, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
The good stuff....tfpu!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Jun 10, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
Is it just me, or is this starting to seem like an "adventure series"..."Brassnuts and eeYonkee", "Brassnuts and RickA", "BrassNuts and Mark (whatever his handle is)". And now, "Brassnuts and Edge". It's starting to seem like the Hardy Boys or something (without the cool titles like 'The Secret Panel'). Okay, so maybe I'm jealous. After all, I was an early participant in this adventure series (haven't seen a dime, by the way).
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jun 10, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
^^ Yeah! Where is the BrassNuts and Crimpergirl installment?
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jun 10, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
I agree that the titles could use some spicing up.
Hopefully that is in the works. In many cases the climb name or a
pitch nickname could fit.

"Brassnuts and Edge in the Excellent Adventure of the Cave Exit" or
some such.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
Lumpy looks really good. Nice TR. Thanks
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Jun 10, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
I expected you guys to get on the Edge. I mean... after all...
The bombay chimney isn't that hard.

Looks like a great time out. I'm around and can play on weekends.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jun 10, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Thanks for sharing a pleasant day of climbing. Looks Gneiss!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
Brassnuts and Edge in the Excellent Adventure of the Cave Exit" or
some such


Lol

DMT
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Nice!!!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
  Jun 10, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
Brassnuts and Edge teaming up???? Now there is a dynamic duo. PULEEEEEZE keep the trippy reports coming.
Fun fun fun

Susan
Brian

climber
California
  Jun 10, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
Isn't J-Crack 5.11 something? Or am I remembering something else? I remember a really thin crack with careful feet right below the topout, before the cave?
jedster

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
  Jun 10, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
Hey! That's me lurking in photo number nine! Pleasure meeting you two out there. -Jed.
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
Jedster, nice to meet you too; thanks for letting us play through on J Crack. Here's another pic of just you and your partner, although it was only taken with my phone and the raking light was washing things out a bit.

The pod belay, J Crack.
The pod belay, J Crack.
Credit: Edge


Mike M wrote:
How was the traverse?

Mike, it wasn't nearly as bad as I remembered. You chug up the continuance of the J Crack until the obvious 15-20' .11c headwall. Place gear as high as you dare without pissing off your belayer, then step down about 6 feet and truck straight right for 15-20'. There are sharp edges for the hands when there are no feet, and crystals for your feet when your palms are padding. If you came off at the end you'd take a heck of a pendulum but it's totally clean. 5.10a seems about right, but I admit to letting out a little yelp of relief when I latched the flake.

From there you grovel up a 5.2 flake and hold off on pro until you get over the crack, which your second will thank you for.

J Crack traverse. 5.10a? PG
J Crack traverse. 5.10a? PG
Credit: Edge

Nearing the flake. We aimed for the bush.
Nearing the flake. We aimed for the bush.
Credit: Edge
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Jun 11, 2014 - 04:17am PT
Hey Edge,

Glad your enjoying life out there in sunny Colorado. The black flies are still biting up here in NH. Your not missing anything!
I may visit Wyoming in August, as I miss the West.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Jun 11, 2014 - 04:50am PT
This IS the best thing about the Forum - connecting people who otherwise might remain strangers.

The only thing I don't understand about this TR is the walk off in rock shoes! I use the ultralight sneakers everybody makes now and carry them in the rope bag worn as a backpack. It's so lightweight you barely know it's there. I'd rather do an approach in those and than a walkoff in climbing shoes.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Jun 11, 2014 - 06:05am PT
Good stuff!
jonnyrig

climber
  Jun 13, 2014 - 08:47am PT
Looks like fun.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 13, 2014 - 10:53am PT
After reading this TR and looking at your wonderful pictures, I really wish I could join you two to make Team 169 -- but I doubt I could keep up with you. Thanks for a marvelous post of what certainly looks like an excellent adventure.

John
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jun 13, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
Excellent, thanks for sharing.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  Jun 13, 2014 - 04:26pm PT
Nice:)
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Jun 13, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
Sweet! Too bad the weather sucked.
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  Jun 14, 2014 - 08:32am PT
Makes me want to move to CO
Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
  Jun 14, 2014 - 09:54am PT
That's so awesome. Lumpy ridge is such a cool place. I'd like to go back someday.
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