Trip Report
Boiled Goose
Wednesday March 6, 2013 7:49pm
These are from the FA of Boiled Goose, VI WI6 M6 A2, 3,500', on Heritage Point last weekend. It took Ben Trocki and I about 58 hours round trip from a camp at the base. We bivied twice on route.

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

  Trip Report Views: 1,883
johnkelley
About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
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bob

climber
  Mar 6, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Seems more like a frozen goose! Nice pics. Man it looks cold!
Thanks
And nice F-in work!
Bob J
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Mar 6, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
hey, great pics! Thought I'd take a quick gander.....
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Mar 6, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
sweet
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 6, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
Oh Crunch, that's bad.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Mar 6, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Town sends?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 6, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Looks like a cold place to sleep.


Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Mar 6, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
If you had soloed it it would have been be a townsend solitaire instead of a boiled goose for two.

Where's the line on your first pic?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Mar 6, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
It's just to the right of the smear that comes down the lower half of the face.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Mar 6, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
So thats why it took a couple of bivies - full tilt the whole way! spectacular. Whats the approach like?

Are you on some Sarah Palin climbing team or something? It seems like you pump out a new route once a week or so.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Mar 6, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
It's one of the easiest approaches in the Chugach. Two miles on a groomed cross country ski trail then about five miles up the frozen river. Seven miles total with zero bushwacking and maybe 150 feet of elevation gain. Takes a few hours depending on conditions.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Mar 7, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
Jesus, third page for an alpine FA TR

John you alway's bring the goods.

Thanks for the look.





Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 7, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Nice pics John, great job!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 8, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
what did you guys take for bivy gear?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 8, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Looks awesome thank you for posting! Those thin ice smears look 'fun' :)
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Mar 8, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
We each had a 35 degree bag and a 3/4 length foam pad.

Credit: johnkelley
thudge

climber
CO
  Mar 8, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Rad!

Let's see more photos!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Mar 8, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Real deal alpine action. Way to get up in its face and dance!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 8, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
How much food and feul?
Gilroy

Social climber
Bolderado
  Mar 10, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Needs to be on the first page bump
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Mar 10, 2013 - 08:13am PT
SCHWEET!
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Mar 15, 2013 - 12:26am PT
Here's a few from Ben's camera

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 12, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
After reading the grants drama thread clicked on TR section from OP. WOW, super impressive stuff.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
  Nov 12, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
Impressive indeed! Too bad this report is the only one that the pictures came up on. Especially since the reports are mostly photos...
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Nov 12, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
In to a world unknown...
Thanks-lars
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
  Nov 12, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
Wow, very impressive. This is really inspiring, looks totally serious, committing and difficult.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Nov 13, 2013 - 11:29am PT
JohnKelley. Thanks for cold, committing, and inspirational TR's. ALL OF THEM. One of the things I look forward to and look for when I visit this site. Gives me hope that I can do my weak ass stuff. Which reminds me...I need to get some warmer gear.
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Nov 15, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Whoa...
Awesome TR ...

(buurrrrr)


pvalchev

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Nov 15, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
Looks like a blast - thanks for sharing!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Nov 15, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
I missed this first time around. Looks like the kind of nights where you wait for it to be light enough to get moving and quit shivering.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 15, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Missed this the first time around.....sweet send!
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