Trip ReportAksu Valley Kirgizistan
After a flight to Osh via Bishkek we arrived to ..... via Batken with a car.
From here we walked the 43km up to our basecamp supported by one horse and driver
Our main goal with the trip was the 800m high and 24 pitches long Perestroika Crack, grade french 7b.
As a warm up we climbed an offwidh route on Petit tour Russe 7 pitches at 7a
Next goal was the lower section of Peak Slesova or Russian Tower 4220m. To the left of the established Magic Montain we put up Lazy Lizard, 14pitches 6b. With great climbing over cracks and slabs with some nice run outs
No bolts was placed en route but one of the belays was used of Magic Montain route at pitch 4
We topped out just at pitch 5 of Perestroika crack(P C). Got a good view of it before rapping down the normal rappel route of P C.
Next day we went up to the base of PC and climbed the first 4 pitches, bivied and then climbed to the top day two. An other bivvy at the top and then rappelled the route day 3 Climbing the route all free.
With our goal done we turned for Peak 3850 and climbed one long hard route named Magic Line including what we called Black Magic Corner at 7b+ 12 pitches
For the descent we fixed single anchor points
This route start 20m right of an Italian 1998 route which has all fixed belays. We used same for pitch one.
To get to this climb continue up past petit Tour up the couloir approx 200m and head out sharp left over some steep terrain. Look for the cairns!
When going to this area we strongly recommend to be careful which local tour operator to use. We arranged via Asia Travel which took us via Tadjikistan on the way back. As this was not planned we had no Visa and ended up 2 days in custody and fined in court for entering the country with no permit. This just because of a bad tour operator!
For Kirgizistan EU citizens don't need any visa at all
for more info and topos visit moutainpassion.blogspot.com
/Krister Jonsson 2012-09-26
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