Trip Report
Aksu Valley Kirgizistan
Wednesday October 31, 2012 4:24am
Aksu 2012
Peak Slesova with Perestroika Crack
Peak Slesova with Perestroika Crack
Credit: mountainpassion
During 3 weeks between 9th August to september 1st we, Anna Backlund and krister Jonsson visited the area of Aksu in Kirgizistan.
After a flight to Osh via Bishkek we arrived to ..... via Batken with a car.
From here we walked the 43km up to our basecamp supported by one horse and driver
Our main goal with the trip was the 800m high and 24 pitches long Perestroika Crack, grade french 7b.
As a warm up we climbed an offwidh route on Petit tour Russe 7 pitches at 7a
Next goal was the lower section of Peak Slesova or Russian Tower 4220m. To the left of the established Magic Montain we put up Lazy Lizard, 14pitches 6b. With great climbing over cracks and slabs with some nice run outs
No bolts was placed en route but one of the belays was used of Magic Montain route at pitch 4
We topped out just at pitch 5 of Perestroika crack(P C). Got a good view of it before rapping down the normal rappel route of P C.
Next day we went up to the base of PC and climbed the first 4 pitches, bivied and then climbed to the top day two. An other bivvy at the top and then rappelled the route day 3 Climbing the route all free.

With our goal done we turned for Peak 3850 and climbed one long hard route named Magic Line including what we called Black Magic Corner at 7b+ 12 pitches
For the descent we fixed single anchor points
This route start 20m right of an Italian 1998 route which has all fixed belays. We used same for pitch one.
Anna Backlund following on "Leaning Flower Tower" 7b Peak 3850
Anna Backlund following on "Leaning Flower Tower" 7b Peak 3850
Credit: mountainpassion
And on central pillar at Peak 3850 we also put up a shorter route over 5 pitches above left from Petit Tour Russe which we named Leaning Flower Tower at grade 7b. Also single fixed anchor points down to the base
To get to this climb continue up past petit Tour up the couloir approx 200m and head out sharp left over some steep terrain. Look for the cairns!

When going to this area we strongly recommend to be careful which local tour operator to use. We arranged via Asia Travel which took us via Tadjikistan on the way back. As this was not planned we had no Visa and ended up 2 days in custody and fined in court for entering the country with no permit. This just because of a bad tour operator!
For Kirgizistan EU citizens don't need any visa at all

for more info and topos visit moutainpassion.blogspot.com

/Krister Jonsson 2012-09-26

  Trip Report Views: 1,459
mountainpassion
About the Author
mountainpassion - Climber and skier

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 31, 2012 - 10:32am PT
Mmmmmmm- hard cheese balls and fermented mare's milk! Kyrgyz people very tuff.

I wanna go! More pictures please.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Oct 31, 2012 - 11:30am PT
wow, sounds like an amazing trip... yes more pics... sounds like you all climbed a ton-very nice!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 31, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Det var bra! Tack tack!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Oct 31, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Keith Brown tried to talk me into going there 18 years ago.

Looks very beautiful, but I suspect American citizens need a visa and then some.
That bit about the tour operator sounds oh so familiar.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 31, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
Awesome. More pictures please?
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
  Oct 31, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
Cool, I was near there in 2004 and really want to go back some day. So much great rock! I'd love to see more pictures. Your blog link didn't work.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 31, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Ron, I got a visa on arrival in the airport.
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
  Oct 31, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
In 2004 we had to have a trekking permit and a border travel permit for that area too. We paid a tour agency $600/person for that plus our transportation from Osh to basecamp. Had some minor problems getting donkeys but it worked out with a day delay. Krygyz visas are just a stamp at the aiport for 30 days. Bring USD cash.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Oct 31, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
Great TR. Thanks !
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 31, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Nice Job!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Oct 31, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
Fook yah, brah!!!!1111666
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go