Trip Report
Afternoon Bouldering with a Golden Age Crack Master
Monday February 14, 2011 7:29pm
I’ve known Larry Zulim for a long time. A great guy and all about going climbing. He climbs hard too, usually going to Yosemite at least once a week to climb crack.
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Larry on "Vanishing Point" Sentinel Creek, Yosemite
Larry on "Vanishing Point" Sentinel Creek, Yosemite
Credit: Radish
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He knows a lot of old climbing history and stories from the valley days. There is a picture of him balancing on a slack chain in the Yosemite Climber book by George Meyers. You would think that after all those years it would be time to do a slide show tour or write a book but Larry’s still climbing Hard for his sixty some years!
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Heading to the Rock
Heading to the Rock
Credit: Radish
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I went along on a bouldering excursion one afternoon recently with him and our friends Bruce and Adam. Bruce and I have climbed for some years now and Adam had never climbed before and bought some gear just for this day. We brought along one bouldering pad, though we hardly used it. We were Trad Bouldering
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Credit: Radish
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Old style Chalk Bag with 1" keeper sling tied with a water knot
Old style Chalk Bag with 1" keeper sling tied with a water knot
Credit: Radish
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I guess you could call the 440 Boulders a secret spot. All along the foothills of the Central Sierra, there are areas peppered with boulders, some medium, some amazingly huge! But it’s all mostly off limits. “No Trespassing” signs everywhere.
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Off we go....
Off we go....
Credit: Radish
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This boulder place Larry is taking us doesn’t seem to have any of those kinds of signs. Coming here for a number of years already, he knows the access secrets, which includes bringing some doggie treats.
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Credit: Radish
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Credit: Radish
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Located on the eastern edge of the valley between Visalia and Fresno, it’s a bunch of lefts and rights, then through a farm workers yard with bulls and on to the edge of an orange orchard to get to the rocks. The parking is at a pullout slashed with gang graffiti, broken glass and bullet holes. It was unsettling to head to the rock leaving the truck to fend for itself.
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Credit: Radish
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Credit: Radish
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Last time I went to a bouldering area, a year ago maybe, everyone had a pad. It looked like a mattress convention! We would pile em all up for the high ball problems. Being a good spotter kept you in with the in crowd. Some big climbs you have to jump off the top onto waiting pads or pad.
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Those were the days <br/>
Those were the days

Credit: Radish
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There were chalk “buckets” of all things! Poles with coarse brushes taped on with duct tape leaned against the boulders. There was a step ladder too. Everybody was covered in chalk and sweat, a stove down in the dirt hissed out the smell of an espresso pot boiling and the banged up boom box blared out some thumping, bumping, gitty up rant. And everyone was sending the stuff, going for it on big air to the applause and yells of the crowd, climbing hard and in style and getting stronger and bolder on the Boulder. It’s contagious for sure. Bouldering is a sport all on its own!
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Credit: Radish
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Credit: Radish
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Today it was just climbing. We were nomadic, moving camp to the next boulder set as soon as we’d all done the problems or not. There were some funky landings, with fist size rocks. I guess the pad would help here but we didn’t want to take the time. The climber must not fall was the mantra, though it wasn’t that bad.
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Credit: Radish
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This was more like the way I remember bouldering to be, when all you brought was shoes and a chalk bag. Sometimes a piece of rug helped. . Larry was going for 90 problems, which he did. He doesn’t count the down climbing and just keeps moving, though not too fast, just steady. Bruce and I got up more problems than we thought and Adam got a serious taste for climbing on his first boulder problems
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Adam cranks his first boulder problem
Adam cranks his first boulder problem
Credit: Radish
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Credit: Radish
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We finished right as the sun was going down and it was almost dark as we came back to the truck where all was amazingly well. All the light was just right for photos and views and we felt rewarded with sore muscles and planning for the next week’s trip back. I’m Thankful to Larry for giving me the gusto to go climbing and having him as my inspiration!
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Bruce and Larry
Bruce and Larry
Credit: Radish
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  Trip Report Views: 6,320
Radish
About the Author
Radish is a trad climber from SeKi, California.

Comments
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 14, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
Very nice!!! I remember "Hot" Henry having his hands full with Vanishing Point around the time he put up Fish Crack. We errr..."mature" guys need to root for each other.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Feb 14, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
Whoa! That's almost enough to make me think about trying bouldering. Nice TR
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
  Feb 14, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
schweeet
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 14, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
I wish I had more forty foot cracks handy! Glad to see that Larry Z is still at it!
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Feb 14, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
When I was first cutting my teeth on the vertical, the name Larry Zulim was the stuff of legend around Santa Cruz.

Cheers for the great TR and beautiful alpine glow on the stone.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Feb 14, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
Looks like a really fine time. 90 sounds like a lot.
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
  Feb 14, 2011 - 08:23pm PT

Larry rocks, no doubt about it, he's nice, loves to crank, and he has a killer smile!

That t.r. is cool, plus there were treats for the doggies!

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Feb 14, 2011 - 09:18pm PT

Bump for sum short cracks!!!!
Nick

climber
Dazed, Confused
  Feb 14, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Good to hear you are doing well Larry! That bouldering looks fantastic.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Feb 14, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
A nice report - thanks! It won't stop raining here until August, so it's nice to see the sun, even if vicariously.

If you're talking with Larry, mention that I have contact information for Simon Tooley - I think they were pals BITGOD.

There were chalk “buckets” of all things! Poles with coarse brushes taped on with duct tape leaned against the boulders. There was a step ladder too. Everybody was covered in chalk and sweat, a stove down in the dirt hissed out the smell of an espresso pot boiling and the banged up boom box blared out some thumping, bumping, gitty up rant. And everyone was sending the stuff, going for it on big air to the applause and yells of the crowd, climbing hard and in style and getting stronger and bolder on the Boulder. It’s contagious for sure. Bouldering is a sport all on its own!

I'll pass on the herd scene, thanks.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
Dang, Larry, glad to see you're still gettin after it!
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:03pm PT


Larry Zulim:

One of the nicest/coolest guys in the nylon ghetto BITD.
Glad to see he is doing well.

Nice TR !
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
great photos, really nice TR
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
thx
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
Sweet, looks like socal bouldering
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
Inspirational report for an "old fart."

Hope to climb with Larry one of these old days!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
That place looks great. I love crack boulder problems.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
I'm diggin' it. Oh, yes.
TFPU.
Double D

climber
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
Larry roxs... saw him a few years ago at the Nose reunion. He mentioned that he's been climbing a bunch in Yosemite and then...he showed me the callouses on the back of his hands. Those suckers were as thick as bricks.

Good TR.
Slick W

Trad climber
lemon cove, ca
  Feb 14, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
Fun day at the 440's. Larry's a great tour guide and inspirational as a climber. Nice pics by my buddy Rene.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Feb 15, 2011 - 12:10am PT
Cool little place and nice lighting at the end!
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
  Feb 15, 2011 - 12:25am PT
Ho daddy.....its the Three Rivers/Exeter/Visalia Boyz!!!

Damn, Rene!.....good to see you getting out. Would love to have you get out to the "secret" place with Ger Jessuran and I. I remember Larry taking me out to 440. I won't tell!

BTW, let's set a weekend to tour from Lemon Cove up to the park and then back around......you know, the Sequoia Century!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Feb 15, 2011 - 12:35am PT
Yeah I also remember Larry Z! Super cool guy!!
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
  Feb 15, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Sweet tr!

I love how there's a huge pile of boulders overlooking what looks to be farm land and power lines.

The Guy

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Feb 15, 2011 - 01:34am PT
Radish! Selma Kingsburg! I'm class of 1998 Vikings. Grew up in the town of Traver. Me thinks those are the Orosi boulders. 'nough said. I remember going out there and being so impressed before I was a climber. Used to party out in those areas. Lots of rock out there! I now live in Portland Oregon. Now, as a climber, I really miss living down there. Rock on!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 15, 2011 - 02:36am PT
Larry Zulim sighting, WOOOOOOOOO ! !


One of my favorite guys from back in the day.
Larry was the mellowest, coolest, hardest crankin'....awesome.

Beautiful pics too.

Mature guys rooting for each other, CHECK!!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Feb 15, 2011 - 06:19am PT
Very neat TR -- and very cool people!

I bouldered in that vicinity last in 1978, when I was in my second year of law school at UCLA. Tim Schiller in Fresno wrote me about this amazing bouldering area he'd found. "Cracks, cracks, cracks!," I remember him writing, so during spring break, I had him take me out there. We ended up on one of the off-limits areas, and lived to tell about it, but the rock wasn't as nice as this.

Now I'll need to go back and look a little harder.

Thanks for the TR, and for letting me know that Larry is still at it.

John
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2011 - 11:08am PT
My first Trip Report. Thanks for the replies!
Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
  Feb 16, 2011 - 11:14am PT
what a cool day....
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 19, 2011 - 10:42am PT
Awesome, great to see some good bouldering pics!
How old is Larry?
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
  Feb 19, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
Yet another worldclass climbing area in Cal. Hats off to Larry.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Feb 19, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
Thanks.

Surprisingly familiar looking spot. I wanna go there! Great company you guys keep. Love it.
Zander

climber
  Feb 19, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
Cool!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Feb 19, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
Hooo, man, excellent. I wish I had them boulders in my backyard.

Thanks.

BAd
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Feb 19, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
Thanks for the inspirational TR. Looking out at 3 feet of snow with a cold wind blowing----I can't wait till it's ready to get on some cracks!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Feb 19, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
That was fantastic! My first impression of the area was of that region just beyond Tehachapi Pass on the Bakersfield side (which it's obviously not, but looks similar).

Great TR, and I hope you get plenty more opportunities for the same kind of fun.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
  Feb 19, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
Great trip report.
Larry was a great inspiration and Valley ambassador when we showed up back in the seventies. I remember thinking he was ancient when he turned forty. Glad to see he's still cranking after all these years.
All the best Larry!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Feb 19, 2011 - 09:05pm PT
great pictures and prose, thanks!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Feb 19, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
Nice report, and it makes me want to try bouldering too!
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
  Feb 26, 2011 - 03:52am PT
Sounds like Larry has been an inspiration, mentor and friend to a lot of people. I sure felt privileged to follow him around.

Those boulder areas are so beautiful this time of year. Fun just to hike around and enjoy them.

We would get together around 4 pm after working in the fields on a hot summer day. The rocks in the sun would be burning hot, but in the shade we could touch them. Dip hands in the chalk, then jam up the hot cracks as fast as possible before slimeing out. Flame those arms, get stickers in the socks, then jump in a canal for an evening swim.

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 26, 2011 - 04:17am PT
hey there say, radish... did not get to see all the pics... but this is really a nice trip report...

i am not "in the know" as to all this, but i still enjoyed it...

:)
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Feb 27, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
What a good trip report - mellow vibes. Thanks!
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Feb 27, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
Bump for the crack master, and that area...

Looks tits!!!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Feb 28, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
Thanks again for the replies! I finally got Larry over here to check this Trip Report out, his only computer was on the blink. He's not one to blow his own horn for sure and to write a story about him....no way! So, I told him I had a Birthday present, since he turned 62 just a couple of days after we went on this excursion. Phew, I was sweating it, but he liked it alot and smiled that smile!
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Mar 1, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
Bump for the climbing pics !
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
  Mar 1, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
Thanks for sharing. The last bouldering photo - grove/orchard in background - is a winner.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
  Dec 3, 2014 - 11:37pm PT
Crack bouldering - my favorite. Seeing that Larry Zulim is still at it is good news.

Hi Larry. Do you still remembering bondo-ing and priming my old 69 Ford Econoline?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Dec 4, 2014 - 08:37am PT
bippity bumpity boo!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Dec 4, 2014 - 08:42am PT
Beautiful looking cracks. Great TR Radish.
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
  Dec 4, 2014 - 08:59am PT
Yeah those are some nice looking boulders!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 4, 2014 - 09:55am PT
Great bump, killer TR. Looks like an incredibly peaceful spot.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Dec 4, 2014 - 10:07am PT
'Tis the season! Those boulders are where I met Larry, he loves that place.

If you know where this is, go about 1/4 mile east, even better IMO!

Love this TR and the pictures
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Dec 4, 2014 - 10:08am PT
I'm drooling ...
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Dec 4, 2014 - 11:09am PT
Just saw this. Very cool.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Dec 4, 2014 - 11:27am PT
Thanks for the Comps! Hopefully this will encourage me to do another trip report about climbing soon. I climbed with Larry Z. just a couple of weeks ago at his favorite crag....Danland. He's still at the top of his game for sure!
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
  Dec 4, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Nice article! It's always interesting for me to see where the sport has gone over the years. Sixty years ago I wouldn't have thought high-balling with an element of risk would become so popular. Bouldering has a life of its own!

;>)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 5, 2014 - 10:39am PT
The Thimble was a sort of genesis moment, wasn't it? All of the scary highball stuff that we hear about has some part of its origin in that send of the Thimble. Course now people use shoes, chalk, pads, etc.

Looked at the TR again: Vanishing Point was such a cool and, in the crux section, difficult line. I didn't get it clean. Orange Alien -> tough size fingers.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Dec 5, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
Vanishing Point was a great climb. The south side of Yosemite Valley is usually quieter and so nobody was around to hear me yell as I was falling off the crux. Larry led right up it no problem. Pads do make highballs alittle more secure as you can stack em up. I've seen 4'stacks, nice to land on if you are way up and somehow fall. When I started Bouldering all we had were carpet scraps. Not much of a pad, mainly to clean your shoes before getting on the rock. It made you think more about going higher.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
  Dec 5, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
I never thought of the Thimble as a bouldering problem. It was an exploratory free-solo climb as far as I was concerned. But history carves its own path.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  May 26, 2017 - 11:19am PT
Bumping my TR here. I'm still hanging out with Larry Z who is currently doing very hard problems and FA's in Danland, SNP. I know there was a thread about hard climbing older dudes....he is that and still an inspiration to me!! Enjoy ....
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  May 26, 2017 - 11:15am PT

The next one I do !

I will name E.F.S.C. ~> Exploritory Free Solo Climb!
So it won't tip the 'V' Grades, not even B1,
but the fun & inspiration is thnx to this one.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  May 26, 2017 - 11:54am PT
Fantastic TR, Rene! Can't believe I missed it the first time around.

Scott
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