Trip Report
Aborted Solo on Mediterraneo: 1 Bathook, 45' of Whip and 12 Years of Regret
Saturday January 2, 2016 6:18am
Mediterraneo is a proud looking line with a vague and not so proud history. It starts between the Salathe Wall and Magic Mushroom, goes up 5 pitches to kiss the Salathe at Triangle Ledge, then climbs the left side of the Half Dollar before crossing the Salathe and wandering up the Great Slab to Camp IV on the Nose. After that, the route gets steep and super attractive. It goes out the left side of the Great Roof and up the Toblerone Chimney (a.k.a. King Kong's Coin Slot) before cutting back right towards the Nose at Camp VI. The final pitches ascend the left side of the Nose dihedral all the way to the top.

top left corner top right corner
Not the Medi, but you get the idea...
Not the Medi, but you get the idea...
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Scottie Burk and Tucker Tech gave me some of the back story on the route. When the 3 Gallegos brothers came to town in 1981 Mediterraneo was the first time an FA had been put up on El Cap by an all foreign team. That, along with their use of fixed ropes on the bottom half of the route, made them the target of much slander amongst the locals. Rumor had it that the Gallegos brothers took offense to the hostile hardmen and chopped several of their own bolts on the lower slabs. The Basque Bad Boys were also reported to have used batheads (copperheads tapped into a bathook hole) instead of rivets on several sections.

Useful beta was scarce back then, but I was able to piece together a hand drawn topo from the El Cap route poster, Donnie Reid's free climbing guide and my mom's giant binoculars. Scottie had also informed me that the route had recently seen a second ascent (by Ken Bokelund and Kevin Andrews) so at least the issue of the chopped bolts seemed to have been resolved.

In late July of 2002 I stood at the base with 300+ pounds of gear ready to head up into the unknown. Three days later I was starting up the fifth pitch when I got about 30' up and couldn't figure out the next move that would get me to one of the funky little Basque bolts (turns out the bolt chopping rumor was false). I stood there for a long while trying to find a hook from my top steps, wondering if this if this was one of the 5.11 sections and having an internal debate before retreating back to the anchor and grabbing the drill.

top left corner top right corner
This is what self loathing looks like.
This is what self loathing looks like.
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I reached the Basque bolt and continued plugging away at the long (and unknown to me at the time A4 rated) pitch. Only two moves away from the anchor on Triangle Ledge, Karma decided to have her way with me when the micro flake I was hooking time-bombed and sent me for a 45' sliding whipper that mangled my fingers on the way down. I managed to finish the pitch and rap back down to my bags.

At the lower anchor, the cumulative factors of the horrendous slab hauling, oppressive heat, gnawing fear, and the sense of self loathing for having drilled on someone else's route all pressed down on me and it wasn't long before I was digging through my haulbags. My dreams of solo bigwall glory were pissed away one water bottle at a time until there were only 2 liters left. I cleaned the pitch and rapped back down to my bags and made four more raps back down to the ground. Once I got down, I cracked open a warm King Cobra that tasted a lot like defeat and ferried my gear back to the truck.

My friends tried to assure me that no one ever climbs that damned route and I shouldn't beat myself up about the bathook hole, but it has always bothered me. Finally, 12 years later I found myself back in the Valley for a week of climbing with one of my favorite partners.

top left corner top right corner
Mikey-San on the East Butt. of Middle Cathedral.
Mikey-San on the East Butt. of Middle Cathedral.
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Mike and I on the Kat Walk. Middle Cathedral was our consolation prize...
Mike and I on the Kat Walk. Middle Cathedral was our consolation prize that day after we got bouted on the first pitch on the East Buttress of Lower Cathedral. An old school route from when climbers relied on flawless technique instead of gear!
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

After Mike went home I still had a day to kill, so I jugged up the fixed lines to Mammoth with some epoxy, some flecks of granite and a syringe plunger minus the needle.

top left corner top right corner
Ready to make things right.
Ready to make things right.
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I rapped down to Triangle Ledge and then started down Mediterraneo.

top left corner top right corner
The I'm-A-Cheap-Bastard-Who-Despises-Leaving-Booty Anchor
The I'm-A-Cheap-Bastard-Who-Despises-Leaving-Booty Anchor
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
The long 5th pitch climbs the slab in the foreground, the seam in the ...
The long 5th pitch climbs the slab in the foreground, the seam in the middle and some more slab below that.
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Halfway down the 5th pitch I found some evidence from the last time I'd been there.

top left corner top right corner
One of my old heads that I pulled out by hand on my way down. <br/>
One of my old heads that I pulled out by hand on my way down.

Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Below the seam I slowed down and started searching until i found the source of my mental anguish.

top left corner top right corner
Ugly! Sinful! Bad JuJu!
Ugly! Sinful! Bad JuJu!
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

It was time to bust out my patch kit and fix that thing.

top left corner top right corner
Better.
Better.
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Lower down I found an old anchor that I had used during my bail 12 years earlier and I even recognized one of the biners on it. I cut off all the manky tat and reached the ground shortly thereafter with two more biners on my rack and one less hole in the Captain than when I started.

top left corner top right corner
Does it still count as booty if you're the one who left it there 12 ye...
Does it still count as booty if you're the one who left it there 12 years ago?
Credit: SammyHammy
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Mediterraneo probably isn't going to become a popular route anytime soon, but I think climbing has one of the richest histories of any sport and I feel strongly about the importance of respecting that history.

  Trip Report Views: 5,653
SammyHammy
About the Author
SammyHammy thinks about climbing way too much.

Comments
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Jan 2, 2016 - 06:44am PT
I resemble this in a million and one ways--hope you sleep better!
Good on you for following through
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Jan 2, 2016 - 07:31am PT
Agree with above. Cool report, different. That is one nasty mess of crap on that anchor.
WBraun

climber
  Jan 2, 2016 - 11:16am PT
You'll have to go back again.

You fuked up the red line in your photo above from camp 6 to the top.

It goes left.

You the gang that can't shout straight .... :-)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jan 3, 2016 - 07:17am PT
About the Author
SammyHammy thinks about climbing way too much.
EDIT: Bravo! I like the way you think!+1
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Jan 2, 2016 - 08:16am PT
Cool. Thanks for the look at a true obscurity, and double thanks for going back up there and setting things right. Patch job looks very well done.

I'm curious about your strategy, did you plan to free 5.11 slab on solo self-belay?
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
  Jan 2, 2016 - 08:17am PT
"I feel strongly about the importance of respecting that history."
+ 1
Rolfr

Sport climber
Penticton BC
  Jan 2, 2016 - 09:24am PT
We all have done things we regret, good on you for kicking that skelton out of your closet.
rwedgee

Ice climber
CA
  Jan 2, 2016 - 10:17am PT
Nice story with a happy ending.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jan 2, 2016 - 11:14am PT
Awesome. Real men wear paisley!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jan 2, 2016 - 03:51pm PT
So thing thing does have a 2nd ascent. I'd love to read the trip report for that.
Prod

Trad climber
  Jan 2, 2016 - 03:59pm PT
Nice!

Prod.
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jan 2, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
WTF is that on your finger? Duct tape?
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 2, 2016 - 09:57pm PT
Way f*#king solid character.

Proud. Respect.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jan 3, 2016 - 11:26am PT
A good adventure!

This, however, is disconcerting on at least two levels:


Thoughts??

Incidentally, I'd be interested in doing Mediterraneo this year. Anyone interested? Can you hook the 5.11 bits?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 4, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
Legit
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jan 4, 2016 - 10:03pm PT
^^ Beyond. The moral base.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 5, 2016 - 07:34am PT
Very cool!

May a karmic flake reappear for you!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
  Jan 5, 2016 - 08:02am PT
Awesome story, man!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jan 8, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
I have bolts I want to chop and patch
I admire you
We need more people like you
Ian B

Social climber
Glenwood Springs
  Jan 11, 2016 - 10:52am PT
Nice write up! Now time to go back and send...
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jan 11, 2016 - 12:16pm PT
Excellent! I look forward to reading a follow up about your success next time.

John
cornel

climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
  Feb 3, 2016 - 05:47am PT
Sammy you the Mammy! I mean the man.! Great story, great attitude, great execution.. Your story reminds of one of my own failings in a similar situation. Early ascent on Zenyatta Mendata. I had the odd pitches and I believe it was the 7th pitch or the 9th where I was 10ft from the belay and something was missing or was it.? I saw how I could finish the pitch. It would require a little circutuitous heading but I got weak and drilled a shallow bat hook to quickly make it to the belay. That's been a gentle haunting..for me. I later realized this is precisely how a Masterpiece like Zenyatta over time becomes savearly degraded. It so easy to rationalize at the time. One little hole here..no ones gonna really notice..I have been on this pitch 3hrs already! Ok One more little hole here too. I have to get across this section.I am desperate!. I promise myself I will not do this again..sure...and before you know it in just a few years time that A 4+ is now A 3...Demanding ruthless honesty of ourselves.. Can't demand it of others but we can demand it of ourselves.. we don't have to get weird about this but we Know when are about to do something we shouldn't.. Thanks again Sammy..
the goat

climber
Mazama, WA
  Feb 3, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
I'm with PTP, what's up with the single bolt rap? It's a creep show with two!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Feb 12, 2016 - 08:19am PT
Nice read, thanks for posting!
Go