Trip Report
A quick visit to the Valley - Trip Report
Tuesday September 19, 2006 6:05pm
It's Tuesday afternoon at 4:30. My bags have just arrived from the airport. They were fortunate to stay behind in California a full day longer than I was. It wouldn't matter much, except that my computer cord was packed in them. With the return of my cord, I can sit down and hack out a little TR.

I arrived in Sacramento late Thursday night. I had several hours to kill waiting for my partner, Arno, to pick me up. He was in the area already giving clinics. He arrived around midnight and we drove to the valley. It was sort of fun entering the territory in the dark so I could wake up and see a totally different world all at once.

The first morning, we drove into the park and just looked around. Though he's been there many times, I hadn't. I got the standard 200 photos of rock walls - stuff many of you see everday. I look at the photos now and wonder why I felt the need to take a photo of El Cap, Half Done, Sentinal and other prominent features EVERY TIME I SAW THEM. I'll post only one photo from this series... (uh oh, how can I turn this?)


I was sort of bummed that Yosemite Falls are totally dry right now. Glad to have seen photos of them when they are blasting. It must be spectacular to see in 'real life.'

We headed over to the lodge to grab some breakfast. While there, Holdplease2 came over and joined us. It was great to finally meet her after talking with her here, and over email for some time. Here she is with Arno...


After leaving Holdplease2 behind to nurse her thumb (a thumb meets rock wall at too high a speed accident) we headed to Cookie Cliff to get busy. I have no photos of this day of climbing since I forgot the camera in the car. Doh!

Anyway, we could at least see why we'd met in Yosemite - The Rostrum...


Very pretty. I admit to being a bit apprehensive after hearing words of encouragement from many people...Words like "You are going to die!!" "You will never make it up that thing" "You know there are no crimpers on the Rostrum, don't you?" "Do you KNOW how hard Yosemite is???" I just kept telling myself that I've done many, many multipitch routes - though not in Yosemite - and I'd make it to the top here too. Plus, I'd at least have two days of climbing before we headed to the Rostrum to see how I do on Valley granite.

While at Cookie Cliff, we did "Cookie Center" "Waverly Wafer" and "Wheat Thins". These were great fun and they actually boosted my confidence. I did get a bit tired hunting for the crimpers though. ;)

It got late (and cold) on top of Cookie Cliff. We hustled out of there and headed to Curry Village for some time in front of the fire and a buffet. Nothing like the spice of a day of climbing to make any food taste fantastic!

We then headed to Yosemite Village to meet up with Ed (preparing for the slideshow Saturday night). Here I met a super cool woman and I kept thinking "I know her." Sure enough, it was our very own Jobee - so nice to finally meet her in real life!

The next morning, we headed into the Valley. We were greeted with a lot of smoke. Seems there was a fire near Cookie Cliff. I wondered if our climbing plans would be spoiled because there was a lot of smoke - enough to make climbing in it not possible. After breakfast, we headed to Reed's Pinnacle for day two of fun. Before hiking up, Arno enjoyed the view from the roadside...


Here we did "Reed's Direct" "Lunatic Fringe" and "Stone Groove."
Sorry that I can't remember or likely didn't even know the grades to any of these climbs. If anyone knows, feel free to post it. Grades or not, I can report that Lunatic Fringe and Reed's direct do indeed have crimpers.



Arno could only shake his head as I honed in on these tiny features when a giant crack was in my face. These climbs were quite fun. The last one, Stone Groove (or something like that) was the hardest one as far as I was concerned. I've learned to fear certain words like "flaring" and "arching" and "rattly hands." Seems this climb had a lot of the scary adjectives attached to it. Or maybe I was tired. But likely it was a lack of technique because I can assure you - there are no crimpers to be found on this line. Arg!

Following these lines, we each found a sunny spot and took a cat nap in the sun. Nothing like two days of climbing to make even granite soft enough to sleep on well! After our naps, we headed in for some Curry Village pizza and beer. I rarely drink beer, but I easily put away a tall glass of Pale Ale that evening.

We then headed to the Amphitheatre where Arno gave a slideshow. Before the show started, Chicken Skinner came by. Another Supertopoian in the flesh! That was quite fun!

The next morning, we headed to the Rostrum. I keep calling it the Rostrum, and some people tell me that is the name of the wall, not the route. The route we did I think is called the Direct route or something like that (I'm not into details, okay).

The smoke was gone so it was a go...

Before heading down, Arno took the time to jot down the route using a couple of guidebooks. The consistency between them - or lack thereof - was sort of funny. One pitch was described in one book as a 10d, and in the other book as a 9!


Arno had wanted to get on this route for twenty years. He onsighted it with style. Not every part went free for me. Especially that 11c/d finger crack section. Damn. I would like to thank a particular TCU for helping me out in this difficult section.

I have many photos while on the route. Most of him are rump shots (nature of the beast). I'll post a few of them below...

Someone asked me if I thought I'd really have any fun on that climb. You tell me...


Here comes jammergirl...


There goes Arno....


Like I mentioned before, I *thought* I'd done off width stuff before...I was wrong. It was physical and fun fun fun! Plus it makes one SO happy to have a jam that they don't even think about a crummy crimper...


Well, unless they find another crimper! Now don't think all I did was crimp. That was not possible. I also did my other favorite climbing move - lay backs. A lot of lay backs. Wow do I love those things!

Needless to say, we made it to the top at about 7 pm on Monday evening. After a quick summit photo, we scrambled out to a dinner. A delicious dinner and coma followed shortly thereafter....


The end.... (time for a nap again).

  Trip Report Views: 1,837
Crimpergirl
About the Author
Crimpergirl is a sport climber from Boulder, Colorado!.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
davidji

Social climber
CA
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
Nice trip report & photos, jammergirl!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
very cool, thank you for posting this.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
Nice trip report. Y'all were brave to take on the Rostrum after a day at the Cookie and Reeds (tiring!).

Did Supertopo Ed give a slideshow last weekend?
Blinny

Big Wall climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:35pm PT
NICE!

Glad you FINALLY got to the Inspirational Heartland! I'm Jonesin' myownself. . . ahhhhhhh. . . the fall colors in the Valley. . . like that RADICAL Eastern Elm over by the Chapel. . . might have to head that way after the southwest trip. . . hmmmmmmmmmm? HolyMont to Canyon de Chelly then back up to Boulder then all the frickityfrackin' way to TheeYosemite?

It's doable!

Thanks for the inspiration!

Keep all THAT magic alive!

ox

eKat
10b4me

climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
nice pics Crimpergirl. so what did you really think of the Valley?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:40pm PT
Good stuff, thanks for the write up.

Too bad you missed the falls, but you know they turn them off in the Fall to save water. You'll just have to return in the Spring.
Ouch!

climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:41pm PT
Hooray for you, Crimpie! Nice pics and report.

BTW, here's how to turn pictures.

Ouch!

climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
Shoulda seen Yosemite back in the 50s. Place was downright bucolic.
Mountain Man

Trad climber
Outer space
  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
Thank you.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 19, 2006 - 06:54pm PT
I must say, I knew El Cap was steep, but as my photo (and OUCH's photo) demonstrates - it's REALLY steep!!

Here is a photo of Yosemite Falls when they've turned off the water....



The water is almost turned off completely at Bridalveil...



And for Blinny, some nice photos to entice your return...



Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:00pm PT
Yow,
As first trips to the valley go, that has to be about as good as it gets. Thanks.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:04pm PT
Sleeveless in the Rostrum OW, that's proud. Nice TR...
Blinny

Big Wall climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
DANG, CrimpChick. . . that one shot of El Dome did me in. . . the one with the HEART showin' up so PERFECTLY!

I'm THERE!

Ya know. . . I worked for a guy, when I was a FlatHat, who could NOT see the Heart! I even took him out to the BridwellVeil Falls turn off and DREW A PICTURE OF IT and he still couldn't see it.

AND THIS GUY CALLED HIMSELF A NATURALIST!

Aren't they supposed to be OBSERVANT?

Sheesh!

He's not there anymore!

:-)

Thanks for the triggers. . . I've already decided that the winds of change are gonna blow me, in the SoccerMomUnit, toward the Heartland. . . hopefully ThePass will be open. . .

YeahBaby!

Eric Satie playing some GymnoWhatEver in the surround sound unit, wingin' my way around the long loop. . . Ahhhhhhhh. . . . youz youngin' had aughta run for cover, cause if this goes down, the WayBackMachine could get revved up to the point of no return!

:-)

OldDadBrockWomanMissinTheHeartland!
Mountain Man

Trad climber
Outer space
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:18pm PT
Yosemite Falls in wetter times June 7, 2004




BridalVeil looking good. Same trip

Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:18pm PT
nice shots and report. what kind of jams does jammer girl like?

btw, that aint bridalveil falls i dont think. they turn that water off too. if you look in the trees i do believe you will find bear 46 relieveing himself...sorry to burst your bubble.
Slakkey

Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
Crimpie goes to Yosemite for the first time and pulls off some great climbs. Thats the way to do it.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:42pm PT
Nice trip report and great photos! That flaring crack reminds me of Lumpy Ridge here in Colorado. I'm glad some Supertopians came and said hello! It's always cool on a trip to run into people, I think. The route on the Rostrum looks really awe inspiring. Very cool. Thanks for typing this one up!
Ouch!

climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
Forgive the hijack, Crimpie. Two pictures of the same place. 50 years apart.

BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
  Sep 19, 2006 - 08:03pm PT
S'up crimpie....

I had just gotten off the Trip when I happened across you in the caf...we sat at tables next to each other. You had about 4 folks at the table and I didn't feel too social and was quite frankly exhausted and haviing manual dexterity issues.

Glad your trip was fun, and sorry I didn't have enuff mojo to add one more ST'er to your list of folks you met.

Cheers,
Brent
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  Sep 19, 2006 - 08:18pm PT
Wow first time to the Valley and you got all those climbs in 3 days, fantastic!
I've been up Bevs Tower 3x to do Wheat Thins over the last 25 years and have never gotten on it yet, twice rain and lighting and once crowds....
Karen

Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
  Sep 19, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
Crimpie, everyone knows you haven't climbed the Valley unless you've climbed an Apron route.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 19, 2006 - 08:53pm PT
Thanks all. It was a lot of fun. And to my surprise, I'm not too very scraped up at all. I have some very spectacular bruises on my legs though. One thigh jam got me. :)

I'll post some bruise photos later!
WBraun

climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 08:56pm PT
For only having 3 some days to climb in Yosemite Valley and doing all those fine routes which represent a creme of the crop, that is just awesome.

Very lucky for you to have such a fine partner for this to happen.
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
  Sep 19, 2006 - 09:02pm PT
You done good, CG.

Outstanding TR.
Matt

Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
  Sep 19, 2006 - 09:08pm PT
FWIW- when they turn the fountains back on, you all of a sudden need to pack the bug spray. plus, you'll find that rostrum thing is closed, and lots of stuff can be wet (depending on the year), so hitting the valley up in the fall is at least as good as it is in the spring. you'd be amazed how you can feel like the place is all yours once the crowds go away.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Sep 19, 2006 - 09:28pm PT
So I start reading this trip report and see that you're headed for the ...What?? Rostrum!!!

I think.."yur gonnna die!"

Then you said Waverly Wafer was fun, then I thought

"well maybe after all"

Very impressed. Way to send!

What a stone eh?

PEace

Karl
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
  Sep 19, 2006 - 09:28pm PT
Here's Lauri in the Elm Tree....


It's 11 days in counting until we will be back to the Valley....I love it there in the Fall. White sand beaches and cool evenings, not to mention great climbing temps....most of the time.

Good Job with the Rostrum Crimpie....I love that climb!

Anyone interested in doing the NIAD sometime from Oct 1 - 6th?
john hansen

climber
  Sep 19, 2006 - 11:05pm PT
Impresive tick list for your first vally trip.
It seem like its almost impossible to take a bad picture in that place.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 19, 2006 - 11:07pm PT
True Werner - Arno is a great partner. I'm fortunate to get to climb with him. Plus, friggin-a is he strong! And safe too. I'm bummed I didn't get a chance to find you though. Maybe next time...
roslyn

Trad climber
washington
  Sep 19, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
fun trip report crimpie!!!! love the photos

someday someday........i'll get there
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Sep 19, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
It was nice to meet you Crimpie and I am sure you will be back. Yosemite has talons that won't ever let go. See you next time.

Ken
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
  Sep 19, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
Kick Asss™™™!!

Nice way to maximize your stay!
Ropeguns are nice to have in those situations.

So Crimpy did you lead anything while you were there?

Glad you finally made it there. Isn't it the coolest place on the planet?!

Did you walk up to the base of El Cap?
That's when you really get a sense of it's scale.

More details please. ;]
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Sep 19, 2006 - 11:44pm PT
Pretty neato to bag The Rostum on trip one, day three Crimpie-Jammer!
:Be it by ropegun, lead follow, rack caddy, whutever.

Kudos for your prompt return on the copious TR request.
(we were gonna 'git it outa ya's one way er the other, so its nice you bucked up 'n spilled the goods quick like...)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Sep 20, 2006 - 12:29am PT
thanks for the trip report Crimpie... nice climbing agenda too...

You've got to try Tuolumne Meadows sometime!

And it wasn't this "Ed" that was putting a slide show together in the Valley.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Sep 20, 2006 - 02:38am PT


Still waiting for the bruise picz........ )*o*(
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
  Sep 20, 2006 - 09:52am PT
Protest bump to get a climbing thread to the top.

Sounds like you had a blast Crimposter!
Chris Oakes

climber
Hayward
  Sep 20, 2006 - 09:57am PT
Great pics. Come back in April if you want to see the water turned on.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 20, 2006 - 10:16am PT
I'll try to take the bruise photos tonight when I get home. Today is my long day at work - I'll get home at about 10pm. The camera battery needed charging last night :(

I did not lead anything while I was there. Partly because of a lack of time (I wanted to get in as much mileage as possible and I'm still a slow leader. Slow, especially compared to Arno!). Plus, given it was a new area, I like to get used to the rock then start leading. I'll lead next time. But it won't be the likes of the evil Stone groove!

While I didn't lead a thing, I'm totally psyched. The climbing on the Rostrum was physical - my favorite. I did so many sorts of moves I'd never done before, and the level of physicalness just kept going. I fully understand the difference in leading and following, but I've still got a huge smile on my face from just being follower monkey.

We did not go to the top of Half Dome, nor did we walk to the base of El Cap. Both would have been a lot of fun to do. But honestly, we spent most of our time climbing, then eating like starving people, then collapsing in a coma. Next time, next time.

We did stop one night on the way out of the part to watch the headlamps dancing on El Cap. That was quite fun!

happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
  Sep 20, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
Lucky you, Crimpie! Sounds and looks, from the big smile in the phot taken of you, like you had a spectacular time.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 20, 2006 - 03:06pm PT
Cool Micronut! I'm sure Arno would like those slides. You can find his address at warriorsway.com (I think that's it). He, his wife and kids live outside of Nashville Tennessee. He does get to North Carolina frequently though to climb at Whitesides.

You are correct, seeing him implement the material is remarkable on climbs. He was safe, but it wasn't like he sewed up any of the pitches. He's quite bold!

JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Sep 20, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
Great TR
You did all the climbs to which I aspire,especially the Rostrum.
I'm wet.
I agree, JoBee is really cool.
Thank You.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  Sep 20, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
Crimpie, you sure ticked a lot of the classics. Can't believe you had a hard time on Stone Groove and "fun" on Waverly. Holy Shit! I think I heard they just upgraded that to .11 something. Stone Groove was my first .10 lead ever and I took a 30-footer onto an #7 (old) stopper. If I recall, that used to be everyone's favorite size. That particular stopper, after hacking it our of the crack where I had wedged it in, became my favorite bolo tie. Nice job on the Rostrum. WHat a great piece of rock.
Mal
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Sep 20, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
Wow, Mal...You must have come close to the ground. I was surprised that you found SG to be the hardest too since I use the face more on that one than a lot of the others that you mentioned. The 2nd pitch of Cookie Center is a pretty wicked intro to the Valley as well.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
  Sep 20, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
Great shots of the Rostrum! Thought it was worthy of a slight modification: more crimps, less ropes...

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 20, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
cooool. :)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 20, 2006 - 07:20pm PT
Melissa,

My guess is that Arno and Crimpergirl just did the first pitch of Cookie Center, as a warmup and approach to Waverley Wafer.

But I could be wrong - the ow pitch on Cookie Center could be a good way to check ow skills for the Rostrum?

Riley - That flake on the right wall of the 5.10d corner pitch of Rostrum is called Uprising - 5.11b fist (could be ow for folks with small hands).
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 20, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
Blind Faith? I should have taken more photos.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Sep 20, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
The first pitch of Blind Faith is one of the best splitter's in the park, a gradually widening flush crack with a fair stretch of rattly fingers and thin hands. The upper crux is easier than below. Haven't done the Uprising but I remember when it was first done by Kevin Fosburg and Jordy Morgan in the mid to late 80's. Cupped hands to fist crack w/ face climbing entry moves-enduro pitch- Looks clean and classic
Zander

climber
  Sep 20, 2006 - 11:59pm PT
Hi Crimpy,
Thanks for the TR. Now that you're warmed up, next time you'll lead it all.
Zander
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 21, 2006 - 01:02am PT
agreed, DK. I've climbed that pitch 3 or 4 times, and only had someone that would do the rest of the route with me, once.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Sep 21, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
Finally, Something that makes me want to keep looking at this forum. Thanks for the TR Crimpie. You two are just glowing in that summit shot, like you just had a good time or something. :-)
CathC

Social climber
Wyoming
  Sep 21, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
great photos of the valley, good climbing thanks for sharing...
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
  Sep 21, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
? "Stone Groove" is a face climb. There's a 5.10b face move that lets you get by the rattly fingers.
Clarke Brogger

Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
  Sep 21, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
where did you guys stay each night?
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 21, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
Ha! None the less, Stone Groove whooped me. We stayed at a friend's house right outside the park entrance. Very nice to have a shower and bed each night...
Burns

Trad climber
Nowhere special
  Sep 21, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
Not to diverge from the topic at hand, but have you ever climbed Stone Wave down at T-Wall? Bouldery crux right off the ground (before you place any gear) and then fire off a sweet crack with a cool 'wave' feature at 2/3 height.

The valley is an addicting place. Glad you got on something long and free. Gotta get down to T-wall and dial in those crack skills so you can get back out there on the sharp end. Hanging off solid jams on the sharp end with a thousand feet of air under your heels while the wind blows up the wall is something not to miss.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 21, 2006 - 10:15pm PT
Burns: My first trip to T-wall is soon. I was there ogling it months ago, but it was far too hot..... Can't wait...
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Sep 21, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
Nice post and Valley trip Crimper. We should all have it so good. Best, Roger
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Sep 22, 2006 - 12:05am PT
A little late for reply Jaybro but I don't get in much. Anyway, I never did the uppers but I bet they are killer! I usually like em' skinny but I sure won't turn down a fatty. Someday maybe-
DK
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 22, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
For those interested in the bruises, here they are. I took this photo two days ago.

:)

Ouch!

climber
  Sep 22, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
Mountain Man

Trad climber
Outer space
  Sep 23, 2006 - 01:19am PT
Nice slippers!

Ouch-you are no gentleman.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
  Sep 23, 2006 - 02:35am PT
I'm surprised that you haven't heard the legend about when Ron Kauk ran it out on "Stone Groove", popped, fell 30 feet head-first and almost hit the now long-gone pine tree that used to grow at its base? Someone else here must know the true facts? Think he was about 16 years old. Maybe Werner was the belayer? I can remember yo-yo hang dogging it all afternoon in August 1972 when the pine was still there.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 23, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
Arg! Time to start that diet....
Ouch!

climber
  Sep 23, 2006 - 04:35pm PT
I swear. The devil made me do it. Danged old devil anyway.
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
  Sep 23, 2006 - 07:01pm PT
Hello Crimpie,

Didn't get to say so long to you after the show on Sat. night
-you guys were surrounded by the crowd.

You are one tough cookie smiling your way up the Classics and soon to be putting us all to shame!! Cool.

It was a pleasure to meet you and Arno...enjoyed our conversation and the show.

Till we meet again keep crankin!

Jo W.



p.s. love the Slippa's!



Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 23, 2006 - 07:57pm PT
Jobee:

Sorry we didn't get to say goodbye to you two - it was a bit hectic. So glad to have finally met you! See you soon - for real...

Crimpie
telemama

Trad climber
  Sep 24, 2006 - 02:09am PT
Crimpie,
thanks for the TR. very inspiring! lead or follow, you did proud. I've always liked the Rostrum and wish I would have tried to climb it back when I might have had a chance to make it to the top. oh, well.
Hopefully, you can stay a little longer next time. (:
Ouch!

climber
  Sep 24, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Sep 24, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
i just cackle and cackle

:)
Ouch!

climber
  Sep 24, 2006 - 05:42pm PT
Lovely bruises. :-))
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
  Sep 25, 2006 - 12:01am PT
Bump
Burns

Trad climber
Nowhere special
  Sep 25, 2006 - 09:47am PT
Glad you're going to get out to T-wall soon. Yep, its not a hot weather destination. We were there on a cool day in march, cloudy part of the day. It was perfect T-shirt weather by the end. I'm sure there are plenty of folks who can recommend good climbs to you. Stone wave was my favorite, ended up belaying from the top and watching sunset over the Tennessee river (and shivering my a$$ off). I hope to see a full writeup on that one too. I can give you a bit more info about it if you want (there are probably better sources on this forum), but I'll keep the focus on this thread on the Valley.

Any idea what's next on the Valley tick list? Maybe you can get Werner to do Astroman with you.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
Bumping because it's climbing, it's Yosemite and there are pretty pictures!

I ought to take some time to post some photos from a trip we took at the end of November to Whitesides. We did The Matrix on a gorgeous fall day...
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
Thanks Mr. Crowley. I had such a good time. Hope to be back this summer for more.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 29, 2007 - 01:35am PT
oops, caught in a dreaded bump and run
artmusicsouth

climber
VA
  Jan 29, 2007 - 10:47am PT
Thanks for the bump crimpergirl! I like to see the climbing posts here as it gives me a Valley fix. I have never been though I am eying the Nose for 2009 when I turn 40. (family and work keeps me from traveling much at all.) How was your T-Wall trip? That is one of the best places I have been to climb. Classic routes all the way around. Given what you were doing in the Valley you should certainly hop on In Pursuit of Excellence and Cake Walk.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
I've managed a few trips to T-wall so far. My favorite so far is Razor Worm (Razor something. I have a knack for forgetting every name). I thought Passages was super fun too.

Haven't yet got on Cakewalk or in Pursuit of Excellence. The last time I was there, several things were wet so some of these were off limits. Actually, I liked everything I did so far.

BTW, keep it secret that I've been doing all this gear leading. It upsets some people here to know that I own a rack and lead gear (and do so well, thank you) since I'm but a lowly sport climber they say. ;)

My first trip there, I followed someone who leads at a much harder level than I. Stone Wave was the best from that day. Hard, fun, and the crack was LOADED with lizards! I want to thank the anonymous man who allowed me to climb up on him to get off the ground on this. The start was brutally burly.

I hope to get back there soon and get on these other classics.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jan 29, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
CG--One of the best posts I've seen here. Thanks for the excellent report and awe-inspiring photos!
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Jan 29, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
Hey Crimpie...
I have a question about this photo. Is that fixed gear? Them's some sketchy lookin' old cams on yer rack, and the slings are way faded... I somehow didn't notice this part of the picture before...

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
Excellent eye. The slings were faded. This trip took place in September. After the October Skinner tragedy, the gear was all inspected and new slings put in place. Also my harness, with it's belt webbing chewed about 1/3 of the way through was retired at that same time.

Lots of changes came from that really sad October event.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Jan 29, 2007 - 07:19pm PT
Okay, good. Just checking. Wouldn't want to see anything happen to you, or, uh, your rack...

;-)
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
  Jan 29, 2007 - 09:48pm PT
Great TR, Jammie!
Thank you.

-Aaron
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2007 - 12:10am PT
Heh heh, heh heh, you said rack. :)
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
Though Hank Caylor would not approve of this own-thread-bumping, I'm doing so anyway. This was a fun trip. Fun photos. Fun to look back at it.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Apr 8, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
Those slings on Arno's 1985 rigids look like the same ones that kinda sketched me out when we climbed together in about 1999.

If you run across Steve Petro & Lisa Gnade's book on crack climbing, as I did last week, you can see some excellent pictures of Arno as a young whippersnapper climbing cracks in Wyoming.

I know several people in Boulder who have lived and climbed there for over 10 years and still miss the T-Wall a lot.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Apr 8, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
Cool ! Note to self: need new slippers :)
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Apr 8, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
Bump again!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
I know Donini and Mal Daly saw Arno's gear in Red Rocks when we were all there a couple of years ago. They were appalled at the stuff! It probably was they same that you saw years before. :) Hopefully he's climbing on more solid stuff now. I know I am.

I do miss T-wall. We hope to do several weeks out in that area in the fall. Can't wait!

The slippers rock btw - still have them and still wear them. The cat attacks them - they really annoy her for some reason :)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 8, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
Awesome TR Crimpie!!

There, I said it for Dirtineye.

Good job, and keep 'em coming!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Feb 13, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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