Trip Report
A Polly Dome service weekend- Tuolumne
Wednesday September 21, 2011 3:08am
It's such a sweet climb. Deserves better than to languish in obscurity ('though in plain sight).

Maybe if it was a bit safer, more folks would get on, and enjoy it.

Curve Like Her 5.9 (+ in modern rating) 3 pitches

First pitch slightly awkward ramp to short fist crack
Credit: Jay Wood

Second pitch- a manky pin protected a thin face traverse
Credit: Jay Wood
new pin
Credit: Jay Wood
old pin
Credit: Jay Wood

a (now better) bolt protects somewhat runout face.
Credit: Jay Wood

Third pitch- Some undercling, and an arete
Credit: Jay Wood

we left this one for flavor- there's a gear placement nearby
Credit: Jay Wood

The shark
Credit: Jay Wood

The top anchor- before
Credit: Jay Wood

after
Credit: Jay Wood

during
Credit: Jay Wood

rap- angling to 'cornhole' anchor- replaced one bolt, and double rope rap to ground, although you can probably do it with one rope and intermediate anchor.
Credit: Jay Wood

While we were in the process, another party came up and climbed the route. They said they saw us, & heard the drilling. I guess this confirms the adage: "If you rebolt it, they will come."

Anyway, it's pretty safe now- check it out.


Second project: 'Trilogy'- Harlequin Dome

First pitch- cracks in a shallow corner. On the stiff side of 5.8 I thought, to moderate cracks.
Credit: Jay Wood

Second pitch- moderate cracks to the base of slab
Credit: Jay Wood

Third pitch- friction following a dike past 4 bolts. Says 5.9 and .10b in the book, but I whipped off the '5.9' section multiple times, and the .10b a couple, so I'd give it .10c. The Reid topo is not too accurate. Shares the (formerly 1 bolt) top anchor with 'Harlot'

Added 2 bolts to top anchor
Credit: Jay Wood

Replacing the face bolts
Credit: Jay Wood
Credit: Jay Wood

The middle section of this climb is pretty low key, but the approach is short, and the scenery up top is great.

The view
Credit: Jay Wood

Potential new route- oddly, the camera wouldn't focus. Probably better that way.
Credit: Jay Wood

So besides swimming, beer drinking, etc. that was the deal. Thanks to ASCA and the SAR guys for a bunch of bolts, and to the mountain spirits for having us.
Credit: Jay Wood
Credit: Jay Wood








  Trip Report Views: 2,898
Jay Wood
About the Author
Jay Wood is a trad climber from Fairfax, CA.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 21, 2011 - 03:19am PT
Thanks much!!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Sep 21, 2011 - 03:39am PT
Potential new route - oddly, the camera wouldn't focus. Probably thanks to the mountain spirits.
Not to twist your words, but that's how I read it.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Sep 21, 2011 - 03:54am PT
Good stuff Jay. I hope to benefit from your efforts!
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Sep 21, 2011 - 08:33am PT
Your hard work will benefit many, many who follow. Thanks for sweatin' it for the rest of us!
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Sep 21, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
Good job Jay!

I might have to go up and check it out!

Steve
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Sep 21, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
Thanks for the hard work!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Sep 21, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
Cool! That 2nd to the last pic belongs on the clouds thread.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 21, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
Cool, Jay. Thanks for the before and after!
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Sep 21, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
awesome. thanks for the labor and the tr.
Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
  Sep 21, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
tom Carter

Social climber
  Sep 21, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
Thank you very much.

Those are good routes!

TC
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 22, 2011 - 01:14am PT
bUMP. PUBLIC SERVICE!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Sep 22, 2011 - 09:09am PT
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Great community service!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 22, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
Thanks, Jay, to you and your partner.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 22, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
Awesome, thanks for the community service!!!!
Zander

climber
  Sep 22, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
All right!
Greg Barnes

climber
  Sep 22, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
Great job! I knew I should have given you guys more bolts!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Sep 22, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
Many thanks for your service!
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
  Sep 22, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
Thanks to the both of you!

Guess you guys wanted to get the last OBA (Original Bolts Ascent)? ;)
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Sep 22, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
Thanks!!

Curve is a hard 5.9.
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Sep 27, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
having done both those routes before the re-bolting, I'm very grateful to both you and Tony for having stepped up...very much needed, especially Curve Like Her, old school for real...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 27, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
Great stuff, thanks!
yosemite 5.9

climber
santa cruz
  Sep 27, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
Does anybody know how good the bolts are on Quiet Desparation. I haven't done it since 1986? Chad
Greg Barnes

climber
  Sep 27, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
I replaced all the bolts on Quiet Desperation (one in 2001 and the rest with Karin Wuhrmann in 2005), so all good to go. Good thing too, one of the anchors was completely gone - it consisted of one snapped off bolt and one sheared off hanger. My guess is that ice sheets form up under that arch and then fall off with the bolts still in the ice (actually if I'm right about that then even 3/8" stainless may get ice-chopped sooner or later).
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 13, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
Yeah
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go