Trip Report
10 Days in Tuolumne
Tuesday July 16, 2013 6:44pm
Its always great to get out into the wild places we love. To explore and conquer (even sometimes fail) in our missions.

tenaya peak pano
tenaya peak pano
Credit: climber007

For me its a required cycle, to preseve the delicate state of my own peace of mind. Like many of you I am sure, I require a steady diet of adventure to maintain my mental health.

Some of my undertakings are excruciatingly planned, huge missions with real dangers which take as much (or more) out of me as they give back. This one how ever was the polar opposite.. Lets head to TM for 10+ days and just have fun ticking stuff off our lists as we think of it... No real plan, no stress, just days of fun all blurring together.

Given the diversity of our lists we had everything from ice gear for an early season couloir run on the east side somewhere, to big wall stuff for a bake fest on El Cap... and everything in-between... ohh and of course some luxury car camping outfitting such as a bug hut for the picnic table, and full on grill for evening feasts... ;-)

There is nothing overly unique about our adventure.. It was just pure fun and joy in the mountains.. So this TR is simply an effort to share the stoke to get out and play!

Below is a photo tour of some of the stuff we climbed during our trip...

Will laughing at how hard it is getting through the first crux on "Do ...
Will laughing at how hard it is getting through the first crux on "Do or Fly" on Puppy Dome
Credit: climber007

my fiancé Eloise resting near the top of our simul-climb up Tenaya Pea...
my fiancé Eloise resting near the top of our simul-climb up Tenaya Peak
Credit: climber007

our 6 person simul'ing crew happy on top of tenaya peak
our 6 person simul'ing crew happy on top of tenaya peak
Credit: climber007

me leading on "Lord Caffeine" in Olmsted Canyon
me leading on "Lord Caffeine" in Olmsted Canyon
Credit: mark

our friend Sheila having her first go at following Lord Caffine
our friend Sheila having her first go at following Lord Caffine
Credit: climber007

I have to rant about the next climb a little bit. For some time I had been wanting to do OZ on Drug Dome, and had not gotten to it.. Finally climbed it... and was elated to get it clean on-sight.. also it lives up to the hype... I think its probably the best 5.10 I have climbed anywhere.... super awesome!!

me leading the awesome dihedral pitch on OZ on Drug Dome
me leading the awesome dihedral pitch on OZ on Drug Dome
Credit: climber007

my friend Cherie following the crux 5.10d face pitch on OZ on Drug Dom...
my friend Cherie following the crux 5.10d face pitch on OZ on Drug Dome
Credit: climber007

Next we were up for some solo alpine ridge climbing, and a chance to eyeball some couloir possibilities for later in the week. The alpine ridge solo'ing was AWESOME.. the condition of the couloir's, not so much! ;-)

north peak pano at sunrise
north peak pano at sunrise
Credit: climber007

on our way to the first ridge on North Peak
on our way to the first ridge on North Peak
Credit: climber007

life is good in these moments!
life is good in these moments!
Credit: climber007

Will climbing the first 5th class notch we encountered on our romp up ...
Will climbing the first 5th class notch we encountered on our romp up north peak
Credit: climber007

my buddy Will giggly happy on some exposed ridge climbing
my buddy Will giggly happy on some exposed ridge climbing
Credit: climber007

Will, Cherie and myself happy on our first summit, with our next targe...
Will, Cherie and myself happy on our first summit, with our next target in the background.. ;-)
Credit: climber007

The only hint of a bummer during our trip was bad weather coming in and hosing our rough idea at a plan to get on the Hulk for a few days... We ended up doing more cragging that we expected to, but it was still super fun, and we only managed to get rained on once.. ;-)

my buddy Will crushing his on sight romp up "Darth Vader's Revenge" on...
my buddy Will crushing his on sight romp up "Darth Vader's Revenge" on Low Profile Dome
Credit: climber007

me trying to plug gear and sew up the low to the ground crux on "Memo ...
me trying to plug gear and sew up the low to the ground crux on "Memo from Lloyd" on Low Profile Dome
Credit: climber007

climbing some off-width on a rainy day.. ;-)  thats what your supp...
climbing some off-width on a rainy day.. ;-) thats what your suppose to do on rain days right??
Credit: climber007

Will and I hanging out on a ledge on "Crescent Arch" on Daff Dome tryi...
Will and I hanging out on a ledge on "Crescent Arch" on Daff Dome trying to decide if we can wait on the super slow party above us...
Credit: climber007

my friend Cherie crushing her on-sight lead of the first pitch of "Bom...
my friend Cherie crushing her on-sight lead of the first pitch of "Bombs over Tokyo"
Credit: climber007

me having a blast at on sighting "Direct North West Face" on Lembert D...
me having a blast at on sighting "Direct North West Face" on Lembert Dome
Credit: climber007

Will and Cherie happy on a beautiful evening topped out on Lembert Dom...
Will and Cherie happy on a beautiful evening topped out on Lembert Dome
Credit: climber007

me making the first crux moves of the route on Crest Jewel
me making the first crux moves of the route on Crest Jewel
Credit: climber007

Will leading on the polished 7th pitch of Crest Jewel
Will leading on the polished 7th pitch of Crest Jewel
Credit: climber007

me setting off on the p8 final 5.10 pitch on Crest Jewel
me setting off on the p8 final 5.10 pitch on Crest Jewel
Credit: climber007

happy climbers topped out on north dome
happy climbers topped out on north dome
Credit: climber007

At the end of it all, we had real blast.. Weather kept us off some of the bigger stuff we had in mind like the Hulk and El Cap, but we climbed more stuff than I can even remember....

Awesome trip.. I hope the stoke is infectious!

  Trip Report Views: 1,281
climber007
About the Author
climber007 is a trad climber from San Jose, CA.

Comments
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KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Jul 16, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
Looks like good fun you guys. Thanks for sharing.
10b4me

climber
  Jul 16, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
excellent
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jul 16, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Outstanding. Some great routes on that list. Wonderful photos and some really happy-looking people!
Weez

climber
East Bay, Ca
  Oct 28, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
great photos and overall summary :-)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Oct 28, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Awwww god that pic of Tenaya pulls on the heartstrings...

Did you get Memo from Lloyd clean? That one shut me down. Felt like Five & Dime's shorter, scrappier, uglier little cousin - an awesome climb. Short, scrappy, and ugly are not negatives in my book.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 28, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
Nice!!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Oct 28, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
Five stars!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 28, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
Bump!
jplotz!

climber
Wenatchee, WA
  Oct 28, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
I miss CA! Well done Dustin!

When does Spring get here?
climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Oct 28, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
thanks for all the great comments... I had actually forgotten completely about this TR, and I guess someone bumped it from the ashes.. ;-)

le_bruce - nope.. i ended up hanging in the crux, then firing the rest of it.. I think for me personally to get it clean, I would need a bouldering pad, so I would feel ok with just doing the first 20 feet with no gear.. Also I completely agree with your assessment of the climb! ;-)

John - Yea man.. can't wait for Spring!! so we can do another NIAD run?? ;-)

JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Oct 29, 2013 - 01:32am PT
stoke a licious! Tfpu.'
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Oct 29, 2013 - 01:45am PT
What a fun TR to read. Great photos. One of the best places on the planet.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Oct 29, 2013 - 08:28am PT
Sweet!
TFPU
Tad
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Oct 29, 2013 - 08:40am PT
AWEsome Climber007!

This is one of the sweetest compilations of High Country photos (complete with smiling climbers) I've seen on the Taco.

Thanks for starting my day with my own big smile.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Oct 29, 2013 - 08:45am PT
Awesome! TFPU, great line up of routes.
climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 11, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
bump for missing TM!!!!
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