A lot of folks have trouble with the thin crack crux of this route. My secret, which it hard to explain is this. There is a very thin crack in the back of groove shaped rock. I smear my toes on either side of the groove and lock my heels together so I can apply outward pressure on my toes. I get some good finger locks and then hike my feet up the groove using this weird counterpressure.
Lot's of beta on different ways to do this... I actually have my feet out of the crack for parts of it, where there are bumps on the rough granite on either side of the crack. In the real crux section I have to have a foot in the crack. My guess is that I get the outside-front of the foot smeared in as far as I need. Get good locks and move up... definitely good practice on finger crack! it's only 5.10c!
This was a great lead for me. Powered through the crux on pretty solid pro. I think a yellow alien would have been perfect for the fingers but I did not have one so ya. Ran it out a bit. The hands section is flawless and sustained.
I was out there with Peter Croft and Dan Guthrie in spring of 1986. Dan and I were climbing with ropes and gear while Peter was soloing. I watched Peter down solo Sherrie's crack. He made it look like climbing down a ladder. Every move perfect.
If you are face climbing well and feel good on your feet then this one felt like a giveaway at the old rating 5.10d. I did it unroped once when it was early in the season and wasn't greasy at all. Great climb even if the business is over just as it gets interesting.
I even met Sherrie BITD.
A great finger and hand crack.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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