Sherrie's Crack, Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.10c

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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 (3.0)
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2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
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altieboo

Social climber
Das Blase
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   Jun 15, 2009 - 04:45pm
This was a great lead for me. Powered through the crux on pretty solid pro. I think a yellow alien would have been perfect for the fingers but I did not have one so ya. Ran it out a bit. The hands section is flawless and sustained.
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 14, 2004 - 09:06pm
 
Lot's of beta on different ways to do this... I actually have my feet out of the crack for parts of it, where there are bumps on the rough granite on either side of the crack. In the real crux section I have to have a foot in the crack. My guess is that I get the outside-front of the foot smeared in as far as I need. Get good locks and move up... definitely good practice on finger crack! it's only 5.10c!
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Bill

climber
Livermore, CA
May 6, 2003 - 04:45pm
 
A friend of mine watched a guy float this pitch. He told him that the secret was to point your toes straight down with the inside edge smeared in the crack. I'll have to try this next time.
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   May 5, 2003 - 09:55pm
A lot of folks have trouble with the thin crack crux of this route. My secret, which it hard to explain is this. There is a very thin crack in the back of groove shaped rock. I smear my toes on either side of the groove and lock my heels together so I can apply outward pressure on my toes. I get some good finger locks and then hike my feet up the groove using this weird counterpressure.

Just an idea

peace

karl
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Rob

Intermediate climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 3, 2002 - 12:46pm
 
Another Pat and Jack must do. Thin fingers take one through the crux, then its thin hands to a face move to get to the anchors. I used gear no larger than a #1 Camalot.
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Pat and Jack Pinnacle - Sherrie's Crack 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
A great finger and hand crack.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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