Pot Belly, Knob Hill 5.8

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Sort 16 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (3.1)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
10 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 40%  (4)
3 star: 30%  (3)
2 star: 30%  (3)
1 star: 0%  (0)
davidji

Social climber
CA
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   May 19, 2003 - 03:47pm
The slab start is more like 5.8 MA. Maybe a move or two of 5.11b, but you're low and you can jump off if you like. The 5.8 undercling start variation is pretty fun.

The route is fun but short--it would get more stars if it were longer.
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Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
May 19, 2003 - 08:50pm
 
You can walk around to the anchors of this route, makes for an easy top rope.
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Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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   May 20, 2003 - 03:24pm
watch out for the finger crushing loose block too. Either start is pretty exciting on lead, but I like the undercling best. I've climbed 5.10 face climbs that felt easier than the slabby start. Also, the 5.9 face variation/tips crack is fun. more stars if longer for sure.
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Couloir

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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   Jul 16, 2003 - 11:40pm
The slab start is definitely hard for 5.8. Just keep your right foot a few feet right of the crack and you get some friction.
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Scott Bullock

Trad climber
Merced, CA
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   Dec 17, 2004 - 12:15am
Climbed here on Monday Dec 13. Both anchor bolts need tightening. Take a wrench and snug them up.

I give this 4 stars after leading it a few times and tr'ing it. The straight in jams on top rope are so clean and fast that it makes me giggle... weird huh?

The start seems harder than 8 harder than the 9 face moves on the unnamed route above it. But it's not as hard as the opening moves on "Just for Starters" 10a. The undercling traverse is the easiest way to the crack.
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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 17, 2005 - 09:44pm
 
We climbed this on April 16, 2005, and there are no longer anchor bolts or evidence of holes, so I presume the bolts were removed and the holes patched. It is fairly easy to place a toprope anchor with TCUs and a hand-sized cam, though.
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10b4me

climber
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   Jun 12, 2006 - 09:36pm
Climbed the 5.9 tips variation this weekend. I've got fat fingers, and it was definitely a tips crack for me. Did the 5.8 undercling for the start, and that seemed more like 5.7.
tr'd the face to the left. does anyone know what that's rated?
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Couloir

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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   Jun 13, 2006 - 12:01pm
I believe the face variation to the left is also 5.9 or perhaps 10a.
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drb1215

Trad climber
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   Sep 20, 2006 - 12:52pm
We climbed this route, and the 5.9 variation on 9/11..always a favorite for the quality of the crack. It would be nice to see the 2 bolts that have been removed replaced. Easy enough to setup gear for a top rope...the bolts were just very conveinent.
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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   Jan 20, 2008 - 04:09pm
the anchor bolts are still missing as of 1/20/2008.

small and big gear will work to set this up, bring several shoulder length to drop the anchor point over the lip though.

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BoKu

Trad climber
Douglas Flat, CA
Oct 26, 2009 - 12:43pm
 
Anchor bolts are still missing as of 26 October 2009. The sleeves are there, but no bolts or hangers.
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Scott Anderson

Trad climber
CA
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   Apr 13, 2010 - 12:18am
Warmed up on this route April 9, 2010. Took the underclig variation. Above that, great hand/finger jam all the way up. Anchor for the toprope required long slings and a nut. No bolts to use. Fun/easy climb. Both of my girls 12/14yrs sailed up this as well.
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David D.

Trad climber
California
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   Apr 17, 2011 - 11:07pm
Fun route, anchor bolts are still missing as of March 2011.
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:36pm
 
Did 5.8 under-cling variation on lead. .5 purple camalot is a nice piece to have on the upper part of the crack for pro. Fun but short.

Bolt anchor is missing on top, but it is very easy to built your own.
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phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
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   Jun 10, 2012 - 08:34pm
I led the 5.9 unnamed tips route, with the direct face start up to the undercling. My partner called the crux 5.9d :) - it is a delicate crux. The book says "hard to protect, so rarely led", I did not find it so - I laced it with small cams and I did place a ball-nut, which not everyone carries. The direct start face to the undercling may once have been 5.8 - not anymore....
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Brandon Seymore

Mountain climber
slc, ut
Oct 30, 2013 - 10:00pm
 
I have to say that since I've started leading 4 years ago and after many long seasons spent in areas all over the US I have not fallen on anything with an easier rating than 5.9+ and I fell off this start. I just think sandbagging does no good for people looking for real beta. That said, The fall is not that big of a deal as the ground is way flat. Also, if you own a 6 and you are not a 10a yosemite climber you might bring it with and place it before the moves gaining the crack which are also quite techy "smokem if you gotem". Anchor is db #2 and a couple finger size pieces or a #5.
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Knob Hill - Pot Belly 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Knob Hill is a great introduction to longer Yosemite 5.7 and 5.8 pitches.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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