I have to say that since I've started leading 4 years ago and after many long seasons spent in areas all over the US I have not fallen on anything with an easier rating than 5.9+ and I fell off this start. I just think sandbagging does no good for people looking for real beta. That said, The fall is not that big of a deal as the ground is way flat. Also, if you own a 6 and you are not a 10a yosemite climber you might bring it with and place it before the moves gaining the crack which are also quite techy "smokem if you gotem". Anchor is db #2 and a couple finger size pieces or a #5.
I led the 5.9 unnamed tips route, with the direct face start up to the undercling. My partner called the crux 5.9d :) - it is a delicate crux. The book says "hard to protect, so rarely led", I did not find it so - I laced it with small cams and I did place a ball-nut, which not everyone carries. The direct start face to the undercling may once have been 5.8 - not anymore....
Warmed up on this route April 9, 2010. Took the underclig variation. Above that, great hand/finger jam all the way up. Anchor for the toprope required long slings and a nut. No bolts to use. Fun/easy climb. Both of my girls 12/14yrs sailed up this as well.
We climbed this route, and the 5.9 variation on 9/11..always a favorite for the quality of the crack. It would be nice to see the 2 bolts that have been removed replaced. Easy enough to setup gear for a top rope...the bolts were just very conveinent.
Climbed the 5.9 tips variation this weekend. I've got fat fingers, and it was definitely a tips crack for me. Did the 5.8 undercling for the start, and that seemed more like 5.7.
tr'd the face to the left. does anyone know what that's rated?
We climbed this on April 16, 2005, and there are no longer anchor bolts or evidence of holes, so I presume the bolts were removed and the holes patched. It is fairly easy to place a toprope anchor with TCUs and a hand-sized cam, though.
Climbed here on Monday Dec 13. Both anchor bolts need tightening. Take a wrench and snug them up.
I give this 4 stars after leading it a few times and tr'ing it. The straight in jams on top rope are so clean and fast that it makes me giggle... weird huh?
The start seems harder than 8 harder than the 9 face moves on the unnamed route above it. But it's not as hard as the opening moves on "Just for Starters" 10a. The undercling traverse is the easiest way to the crack.
watch out for the finger crushing loose block too. Either start is pretty exciting on lead, but I like the undercling best. I've climbed 5.10 face climbs that felt easier than the slabby start. Also, the 5.9 face variation/tips crack is fun. more stars if longer for sure.
The slab start is more like 5.8 MA. Maybe a move or two of 5.11b, but you're low and you can jump off if you like. The 5.8 undercling start variation is pretty fun.
The route is fun but short--it would get more stars if it were longer.
Knob Hill is a great introduction to longer Yosemite 5.7 and 5.8 pitches.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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