mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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If you are at the base and looking up the route and you still want to climb it......you need to see a Psych. And I like the wide...
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Supertopo also supplies strange beta for New Diversions and for Reed's Direct.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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My beta is back in the 11 hex, tube chock era.
Technique! Every move is a rest.
Riley, you gettin' on it this weekend? I'd love to follow and take photos.
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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peter- weird that i read that same advice only 10 minutes ago and you posted this today..lol
ST says that a lot about routes- I don't like it either..
For example stateing " this is the only good 5.9 on the Cookie" as a remark- sh#t I climbed two in one morning with no guide book and neither were the aformentioned climb.
Makes a person realise why less info on a topo is often better- just to much personal subjectivity.
This doesn't just go for ST, but all guide books and areas- something to remember when embarking on our adventures..
cheers Peter- we have to climb together soon!
Riley
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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I cannot believe Supertopo recommends avoiding the last pitch... just incredibly funky and facile of them. The last pitch is actually hard, interesting and a real surprise for many when you pull into it. It is a powerfully barn-dooring lieback for a few moves off of which some have taken nasty falls, it is that significant. It is 5.10a. The rock is decent and the belay is off the giant bench atop the crux pitch. You end on the Cookie wall top and can just hike off westward and down to the road. The last pitch is very much Part of The Original Very Very Historic Route and Experience, Chris--- quit abridging our history.
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Dah-veed
climber
Wherever its warm
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Awesome route.
I placed finger and hand sized pieces on the 1st pitch (from below Outer Limits up to the stance below the OW). The belay takes hand sized gear, so save it.
On the crux pitch I placed (in order) 2ea #6 C4, 1ea 4.5 Camalot, 1ea #4 C4, 1ea #3 Camalot, 1ea #1 Camalot. Felt well protected.
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Matt
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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The closest I have ever come to not having fun while rock climbing...
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
