Twilight Zone, The Cookie Cliff 5.10d

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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1 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (1)
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1 star: 0%  (0)
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Oct 19, 2010 - 06:52pm
 
If you are at the base and looking up the route and you still want to climb it......you need to see a Psych. And I like the wide...
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scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Oct 19, 2010 - 06:34pm
 
Supertopo also supplies strange beta for New Diversions and for Reed's Direct.
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Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2010 - 06:25pm
 
My beta is back in the 11 hex, tube chock era.
Technique! Every move is a rest.

Riley, you gettin' on it this weekend? I'd love to follow and take photos.
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Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Oct 19, 2010 - 05:57pm
 
peter- weird that i read that same advice only 10 minutes ago and you posted this today..lol
ST says that a lot about routes- I don't like it either..
For example stateing " this is the only good 5.9 on the Cookie" as a remark- sh#t I climbed two in one morning with no guide book and neither were the aformentioned climb.
Makes a person realise why less info on a topo is often better- just to much personal subjectivity.
This doesn't just go for ST, but all guide books and areas- something to remember when embarking on our adventures..
cheers Peter- we have to climb together soon!

Riley
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Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 19, 2010 - 08:30am
 
I cannot believe Supertopo recommends avoiding the last pitch... just incredibly funky and facile of them. The last pitch is actually hard, interesting and a real surprise for many when you pull into it. It is a powerfully barn-dooring lieback for a few moves off of which some have taken nasty falls, it is that significant. It is 5.10a. The rock is decent and the belay is off the giant bench atop the crux pitch. You end on the Cookie wall top and can just hike off westward and down to the road. The last pitch is very much Part of The Original Very Very Historic Route and Experience, Chris--- quit abridging our history.
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Dah-veed

climber
Wherever its warm
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   Oct 19, 2010 - 08:16am
Awesome route.

I placed finger and hand sized pieces on the 1st pitch (from below Outer Limits up to the stance below the OW). The belay takes hand sized gear, so save it.

On the crux pitch I placed (in order) 2ea #6 C4, 1ea 4.5 Camalot, 1ea #4 C4, 1ea #3 Camalot, 1ea #1 Camalot. Felt well protected.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 11, 2008 - 10:48pm
 
great thread on the Road to The Twilight Zone here

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=129073
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Matt

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
May 14, 2003 - 02:45pm
 
The closest I have ever come to not having fun while rock climbing...
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The Cookie Cliff - Twilight Zone 5.10d - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Todd Snyder
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.