Roulette, Leaning Tower A3 5.6

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.0)
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1 Total Ratings
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4 star: 100%  (1)
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klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
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   Jun 12, 2006 - 12:30am
I just climbed this route last week. Overall I'd say it's a quality line with some incredible thin seams. It's possibly too soon for it to have a supertopo, especially with ratings of A3 and A2. The rivets for the most part are bad and I wouldn't expect they'd hold a fall. This combined with the extensive heading and hooking would make for some A4 in my book.

The first pitch is technically not that hard but you sure wouldn't want to fall. It appeared that someone had retreated off pitch 2 where a feature broke off leaving it blank for a move. I managed to chisel a head placement here (I brought no drilling gear). There is a bolt with a hanger on pitch 4 that should be removed. It must have been next to a detatched block that is now gone leaving an easy crack. Pitches 5 and 6 are totally rad but be warned most of the fixed gear has been removed so they will require a fair amount of effort and involve more time than you'd expect. Pitch six is probably the longest on the route at 175 feet or so. Pitch 7 was more involved than your average A2 pitch also.

As far as a rack list goes I'd suggest 12 beaks including peckers, the LA's should mostly be short/thin, 2 each baby angles, and at least 30 heads. I brought a pint of Dewars in lieu of cam hooks.
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clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Jul 29, 2007 - 10:43pm
 
sounds pretty spicy . fishing....
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Leaning Tower - Roulette A3 5.6 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.