clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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sounds pretty spicy . fishing....
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klaus
Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
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I just climbed this route last week. Overall I'd say it's a quality line with some incredible thin seams. It's possibly too soon for it to have a supertopo, especially with ratings of A3 and A2. The rivets for the most part are bad and I wouldn't expect they'd hold a fall. This combined with the extensive heading and hooking would make for some A4 in my book.
The first pitch is technically not that hard but you sure wouldn't want to fall. It appeared that someone had retreated off pitch 2 where a feature broke off leaving it blank for a move. I managed to chisel a head placement here (I brought no drilling gear). There is a bolt with a hanger on pitch 4 that should be removed. It must have been next to a detatched block that is now gone leaving an easy crack. Pitches 5 and 6 are totally rad but be warned most of the fixed gear has been removed so they will require a fair amount of effort and involve more time than you'd expect. Pitch six is probably the longest on the route at 175 feet or so. Pitch 7 was more involved than your average A2 pitch also.
As far as a rack list goes I'd suggest 12 beaks including peckers, the LA's should mostly be short/thin, 2 each baby angles, and at least 30 heads. I brought a pint of Dewars in lieu of cam hooks.
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
