West Buttress, El Capitan A3 5.9 or 5.13c

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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Nanook

climber
Aug 3, 2008 - 01:24am
 
Climbed this route twice in summer '08. Awesome times!

Only pitches 7 and 8(supertopo #s) have mandatory 5.8, and only twenty feet each at that.

Pitch 8 goes left after just a few moves off the belay, into a C1 crack that ends at a stance below two hangerless bolts. Above the bolts is the C1 wide. The Reed guide shows you belaying at the base of the Jungle Chimney, which is very wide so devoid of natural pro and sports two funky, suspect european-style bolts. While it makes for a long pitch it is better to do it the Supertopo way and continue up the Jungle Chimney to two 1/2" bolts.

The top of Pitch 10 has an anchor bolt that is not completely tightened. Please bring a crescent wrench as it is a metric nut bigger than 9/16".

Pitch 3 loves big bird beaks, and sawed angles. Pitch 12 loves long angles, sawed angles and arrows. Other than those two pitches pitches 11 and 13 have a couple pin placements each. That's it for the pins.

There are still four old lead bolts on the climb. Two on pitch 8 and two in the bolt ladder on pitch 9.

enjoy
e
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 10, 2008 - 06:53pm
 
There is a great trip report with lots of photos by Nanook here:

http://tinyurl.com/6pxlxz
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 15, 2008 - 04:22am
 
Here is a first ascent from Layton Kor:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=723348
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El Capitan - West Buttress A3 5.9 or 5.13c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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