Climbed this route twice in summer '08. Awesome times!
Only pitches 7 and 8(supertopo #s) have mandatory 5.8, and only twenty feet each at that.
Pitch 8 goes left after just a few moves off the belay, into a C1 crack that ends at a stance below two hangerless bolts. Above the bolts is the C1 wide. The Reed guide shows you belaying at the base of the Jungle Chimney, which is very wide so devoid of natural pro and sports two funky, suspect european-style bolts. While it makes for a long pitch it is better to do it the Supertopo way and continue up the Jungle Chimney to two 1/2" bolts.
The top of Pitch 10 has an anchor bolt that is not completely tightened. Please bring a crescent wrench as it is a metric nut bigger than 9/16".
Pitch 3 loves big bird beaks, and sawed angles. Pitch 12 loves long angles, sawed angles and arrows. Other than those two pitches pitches 11 and 13 have a couple pin placements each. That's it for the pins.
There are still four old lead bolts on the climb. Two on pitch 8 and two in the bolt ladder on pitch 9.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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